Routes as trad in Northwest Slopes and plains

At R end of main face, slightly SW of walking track from pass.

1. Up Cracks and bushes to small overhang with ferns. Nut anchors on ledge.

2. 40m Continue L and up out of sight, then up slabby wall to mantelshelf (crux) at 30m. To ledge below ramp and zooming corner.

3. 20m R on break in arete, then up more easily.

The route takes the obvious crack below the abseil tree at the base of the descent gully.

Up the crack to the tree.

Up short corner to ledge. Move onto nose on left then up to tree and chains.

Start: Short corner 3m right of 'Excentric'

Offwidth 15m right of descent gully.

Corner with orange bulge on North face. Fight your way through the Australis Grass being careful to not get poked in the eye. Up through bulge at 12m then up crack.

A massive rockfall has demolished part of the first pitch. Seems like it hasn't been repeated since.

1. 30m (-) Up and left along vine, up past bushes, then up corner.

2. 15m (18) Up to roof, up wide overhanging crack then left up line.

Start: 5m left of 'It Went Like Clockwork'.

Strenuous and sustained climbing straight up the corner to top.

Start: Initialled.

Up slab and bulgy wall to twin crack corner.

Start: The twin crack corner immediately left of 'Machine-gun Etiquette'

1. 35m (-) Up slab 10m left of 'Saturation Point' to base of corner and grassy ledge. Up until below overhang then step right to ledge.

2. 15m (18) Step left into corner and up through overhang to top.

A fine line on good rock. Start at the NW corner. A wide crack on the left side of a prominent pillar, 20m left of Seaview.

1. 25m (-) Climb to the big ledge on the top of the pillar.

2. 20m (-) Short cracked wall to roof which may be bypassed by an undercling around left or more strenuously up crack to the right.

3. 15m (17) Into corner and up it (17) or easier exit onto a ramp across right 1m (grade 14 alternate finish)

1. 10m (-) Up chimney left of big pillar on West corner to large ledge.

2. 16m (14) Up left crack in corner to small stance at 13m then right to good ledge.

3. 14m (-) Right into crack, up to terrace. Walk left to base of chimney.

4. 20m (-) Chimney, then wall on left. An awkward mantelshelf, then up.

1. 15m (17) Up Chimney, through bulge and up to large ledge.

2. 25m (-) Up left crack in corner as for 'Seaview' pitch 2, but continue up line to terrace.

3. (-) Crack-line 3m right of final chimney of 'Seaview'

Start: 15m down from 'Seaview'

Up crackline belaying either above or below two bulges at about half height.

Start: 12m right of 'Ocean Drive'.

Steeper than it looks. Original initials may still be visible. Start about 15m left of 'Helen of Troy'.

1. 23m (19) (crux) Straight up crack then trend up left to belay ledge at base of short corner.

2. 40m (-) Continue trending across left to a ledge at base of large corner. Up corner crack to top.

'An unmemorable lead'

1. 15m (-) Crack to ledge.

2. 45m (-) Crack on left, then back right.

Start: 3m left of 'Helen of Troy'.

1. 15m (17) Up chimney and around boulders at 8m then up crack to ledge and bush.

2. 45m (17) Up crack in corner on right.

Start: Initialled 'T'. 15m left of prominent pillar on South face.

1. 40m (-) Up wide crack in pillar to top of pillar, then slabby stuff to belay below shallow corner crack.

2. 40m (19) Keep heading up. Take a good selection of cams.

Start: Initialled. 15m right of 'Helen of Troy'.

Start. The next big corner left of 'Overexposed'. An imposing line. Straight up to the Clayton's off-width at the top. Good pro. Good jambs. Good time.

Start immediately right of vintage 'Carrington' graffiti.

1. 40m (-) Follow the obvious line to a good belay ledge about 7m below triangular roof.

2. 25m (21) Crux. Up, keeping right, to just below the roof, delicately traverse left to continuation crack. Tricky move to get established in this and then easily to top.

The finger crack which splits the huge face on the SE wall above "foxe" graffiti. Up right of lip of first overhang then up.

1. 25m (-) Up the wall just right of 'Gentle Giant', then veer slightly left into groove and up to ledge.

2. 30m (-) Traverse left into 'Gentle Giant' and finish up it.

An easy 20.

1. 30m (-) Up the corner between 'Sleepless Moon' and 'Classical Gas' to ledge.

2. 20m (20) Directly up past a short but interesting crux.

Varied climbing up a beautiful line. Start. The crack to the left of Blood Sports.

1. 45m (18) Climb to the orange corner and up this till it is convenient to step right to a wall crack. Up this and through overhang to large ledge. (The Promenade).

2. 20m (12) From righthand end of 'The Promenade' climb through overhanging crack to the top.

A committing lead. Start at the crack to the left of The Prow.

1. 45m (22) (equal crux) Crack and wall climbing to belay ledge on the left at height of small overhang.

2. 20m (22) (equal crux) Step back right into crack. Follow this to the top with some wall climbing.

Up corner exiting right onto arete at 3/4 height. Up though large bush.

Start: The corner just left of the fence.

The crack just left of the cave, on the remnant fence line. Bridge your way passing a fig tree.

The crack which splits the arete just right of 'Lonely Escalator', about 10m left of cave. Initialled.

Note - could not locate the initals.

The crack through the cave roof.

The buttress just left off Strugglers Lament. A pleasant jug haul, choosing your own adventure! FA was done solo: recommend to bring gear, slings over horns, medium cams & wires. 2 pitches

Fused basalt rock following a gully/chute with the climb running up right hand side. Nice abseil down with good placements. Take plenty of slings.

1. 10m (6) Scramble up from floor of crater to first grassy ledge.

2. 30m (12) Start up right hand side of gully / chute.

3. 30m (12) Interesting features carved by water. Stay right.

Very enjoyable and excellent rock. The route is on the east buttress, inner wall, between a mosaic wall on the left and the vertical walls on the right, and leads straight to south summit.

To access, ascend the Yulludunida walking track from the carpark to the saddle until the inner wall comes into view, then skirt south along the base of the cliffs.

Start: On nose of buttress with a crack with deep groove/chimney on the left.

1. 45m Up steep, juggy arete with superb pro (good for slings) until smooth groove appears on right. Cross it, up nose on right, then cross left into chimney to belay in alcove with diagonal crack.

2. 55m out right then up buttress, slabs and blocks on easier ground to summit ridge.

1. Head diagonally right to to reach cracked rib from slab. Up crack then more easily to block.

2. Up.

Start: At the tree at the eastern end of the break in the main North face overhang.

1. 50m (12) Up 'Dog-eared' to cracked rib then up corners trending right past three bushes to right of orange alcove, 12m above third bush.

2. 40m (-) Up towards tree on 'The Rocky Horror Show' then right until level wiht tree and 10m right of it. Climb the big, blocky corner to bush just past a tricky bit. Start: As for 'Dog-eared'.

3. 40m (-) Up wall right of blocks in corner, then blocks above to ridge.

1. 50m (12) As for pitch one of 'Misty Mountain Hop'.

2. 30m (-) As for 'Misty Mountain Hop' until corner steepens. Belay on slabby section.

3. 30m (-) Traverse right then up to gain rib. Up rich brown rock on beautiful holds.

4. 30m (-) Up blocky buttress to ridge.

1. 25m (-) Awkwardly on to sloping ledge, then right up rising traverse to Piton Belay on yellow sloping ledge just left of a large cracked block.

2. 50m (18) Delicately right to cracked block, up then left. Surmount several overhangs with sparse protection and up to Gum tree.

3. 40m (-) Traverse easily right on good rock to stance.

4. 50m (-) Continue traverse right to stance at the base of huge orange block next to isolated grass tree right of two others.

5. 30m (-) Rightward rising traverse to base of crack-corner on right side of orange blocks. Up with some difficulty, left and up to stance.

6. 30m (-) Straight up to crack through roof on right, then up.

Even more indirect than The Lorelei. Lots of traversing and a great last pitch.

1. 26m As for 'The Lorelei' but keep traversing to belay on the gum tree.

2. 15m Straight up the wall above the tree to a cracker (nut) belay at the blocks at the base of 'the prow'.

3. 40m A gently rising traverse left past clean corner on pitch 3) of The Lorelei to base of headwall.

4. 34m Semi-hand-traverse up left along cracked, along and down a little until the headwall relents to a juggy, brown wall. 8m up to small ledge.

5. 45m Up and right on mosaic wall to very exposed arete. Up arete, corner on right and right wall.

Straight up to left of brown streak, through small overhang at about half height and up to left of triple headed Blackboy (and pocket). Continue straight up to top.

Start: 20m left of Perpetual Motion there is a ramp leading steeply leftwards. The climb starts at the top of the ramp (approx 40 left of Perpetual Motion).

Climb juggy wall then follow groove left to triple headed, mutant grass tree, then up.

Start: At the base of a ramp 20m left of 'Perpetual Motion'

At the Southeast corner of the cliff just before the cliffline turns abruptly westward along the back of the formation.

Start: 30m left of altered states at a steep black corner near a small cave. A little dirty at the bottom but well worth doing for the second pitch.

1. 12m. Up corner moving slightly left to pass overlap.

2. 30m. Take the crack through bulge and up to top.

1. (Crux) Crack 2m L of Conspircy to bulge, then bridge widely to ledge.

2. 10m hand crack.

Up crack 2m L of Traitor, through small roof to ledge. Move R into Traitor and up.

Start Marked. Up crack 2m L of Cracked Actor taking R brnch up high.

'Crack, baby, crack, show me you're real' Off-width 1m L of Cracking Up. Through overhang to cave and up.

'I don't think it's funny no more' Marked. Strenuous off-width 5m L of Wood n' Leap.

Upgraded from a 14 after a rock slide. Loose rock remains. Just right of SE arete. Marked. Climb behind (13) or up (16) L of off-width chimney, or bridge up on R. Continue over loose boulders.

Initialled. Crack line 2m R of WL. Through overhanging chimney.

1. Up staircse 10m down L from The Great Mooka to bulge. R and up to small watercourse and up to ledge.

2. 10m. L under overhang into chimney and up.

Abseil off trees back from edge but take care with rope length.

Start 20m L of Insidious at cairned block. On to ledge, then L to corner with loose blocks. Corner, off-width crack up to cypress.

Start at left end of pile of boulders 4m left of Insidious.

1. Up rounded channel then broken cracks and groove tending right.

3m L of Insidious. Middle of slab, then thin crack. From Bulge, head diagonally R into Insidious and finish.

Has acquired a reputation among climbers at this grade, and the 3 stars in the Colyvan guide is very over-rated.

Start marked. 4m to the left of WITW Up black slab following a vague weakness rightwards on very sparse protection until 8 m, then veer right up corner to ledge and take deep bottoming crackline, shared with WITW to top. Trad belay. Abseil from this area best over Burning Spear.

Initialed. Crack-line 6m R of Insidious, L of 'baboon's head'. Through overhang, up crack to tree'd ledge, then bridge up as for Insidious.

Up the twin cracks to large ledge with shrubs then up the second cliff line via any number of options.

Start: 10m left of 'Lost World Layback'. Faintly Initialed

Corner crack 2m L of Lost World Layback, which it joins at half-height to finish.

Initialled. At top of short ramp above burnt tree stump.

Tricky crack for 5m, then R trending gully. Finish up Lost Layback Crack on L.

Initialed. Crack on bulging wall 3m R of LWL.

Up to sloping ledge, then slight recess. Through bulge, up steep crack crack to ledge, then pleasant corner to finish.

Crack R of RM to big ledge. Wall on L.

2m R of ONB. Up and over large, wedge-shaped block.

Up just L of Devilled Sloth for 5m to sloping ledge. L into crack and up to ledge beneath bulge. Up crack in bulge and follow it up arete.

From the top of large block go up ramp to a slabby left hand corner ( poor pro) to ledge then continue up corner passing eucalyptus tree growing at half height)

2 m R of DS, up slab and groove to just left of tree on ledge. Up corner below triangular roof, stepping right and up corner system to trad belay on top.

Start 5m left of Burning Spear, around the corner. Climb crack and face past suspended rectangular block and up to ledge. Continue up crack in the face directly behind. Trad belay.

Start 15m left of cave where track meets cliff, up unprotected slab into right facing corner that continues into handcrack. New anchor 2023. A carrot protects stepping down to anchor. A good spot to abseil from on this side of the crag.

Up slab to seam/crack on wall above.

Initialed. Up slabby block to move around nose right into the line running up left of overhang, 2 m R of BS

Into orange bay, turning roof on right past bolt, then finish as for MB to right to chains.

Start: Six metres right of Steel Dance pitch 2. A crack which splits a rib or shallow arete.

1. Just right of cave, move up avoiding a small overhang on its right. Continue up line to platform, then up crack through rib.

A dominating corner. Starts below first full length crack-line right of sun deck cave. Initialed.

1. 34m (20) Up easily to ledge and FH at base of corner. Tricky start stemming up chossy rock (random dodgy rivet bolt) then steep sustained corner crack to hanging trad belay where it slabs off. Alternatively step left onto ledge and belay on bolts. This pitch has a lot of hollow sounding rock - take care.

2. 18m (20) Continue up excellent handcrack corner, finishing up the right of two cracks with steep pumpy finale. Belay off rap chain to the left.

Start just left of start for PS and GOW at small roof, following bolts to its left. Up into crack as for GOW for 10 m then follow more bolts left to belay on arête. There is another climb above this. Makes a well protected start for GOW.

Up the wall left of PS. The start has a little gear down low then is unprotected until you gain the crack. An alternate start that is still run out can be done via the first 3 bolts of Drongoland to the left. Continue up crack to twin cracks up high. Double ropes useful. Abseil chains on ledge above.

Initialed. The middle of the 3 striking corners. Originally started as for GOW, moving right into corner up ramp ( poorly protected)'. Alternate starts can be done via Bonzerland or Drongoland to ledge. Pitch 2 up twin cracks in corner to exit left around roof.

The red groove leading direct to the Primal Scream crack. Either continue up PS or head right to balcony anchors on the arete

P1 20 m 23 As for Aslan pitch 1, belay on ledge. P2 25 m 24. Start Aslan pitch 2 but exit stemming box on left and take crack to left of Aslan corner.

1. 25m (23) Up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height.

2. 25m (26) continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

Start left of 'Kelvinator' at an incipient crack which runs up the centre of a subsidiary buttress. Initialled.

1. 30m. Up crack (difficult to start) to below a steep corner. Near its top traverse right onto the arete and up to easier ground. Continue up and left to large ledge. Belay below large corner and wall crack.

2. 30m (crux) up corner to where it steepens and it is possible to traverse left past wedged block, then up through overlap to top.