Showing all 25 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side | |||||
4 | Ready, Set, Go!
Corners. Start: 10 right of previous or 18m left of track. | 8m | |||
21 | ★ OB
A nice little finger/hand crack running up, near the corner next to F, up to ledge then over roof to top out. FA: Chris, 2 Feb 2015 | 13m | |||
18 | Seedy Saturday
Start: Obvious crack when coming up the track. usually wet. | 8m | |||
21 | Strange Like Norman
Start: 5m right again. Has bolts! | 8m | |||
13 | Keg's Korner
Start: Corner! | 7m | |||
18 | Bedrock
Start: as for KK but right and up wall past bolts. | 7m | |||
17 | Jammin' Measles
The obvious crack. Traverse in from the left to get to the start. | 10m | |||
18 | Worthless Cracklines
Start: Corner. | 15m | |||
19 | FHP
Start: Corner/Crack. | 10m | |||
28 | ★★ BRT
climb blankness R of Tilt. Clip Ubolt on ledge before lurching out into space. Rebolted 2018. FA: Michael Law, 1988 | 15m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Crack Man Fever
Cool crack on polished rock. Start 1m R of Septic Penguins, up thin crack to ledge and left to rap anchor. There's a 24 roof sitdown boulder problem through the roof also. FA: Mikl, 1978 | 10m | |||
24 | ★★★ The Old Man of Heave
Start: Start up Crack Man Fever, step right and up next crack (bolt in easy chossy bit) to a hard finish. FA: moss, 1990 | 20m, 1 | |||
Slabs | |||||
23 | ★★ Elmo Needs Some Air
Start as for 'Kiosks' but head right. Past single RB and 2 cam breaks up to lower off FA: Dale Tweedie & Chris Yeomans, 2004 | 12m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ Mum's the Word
Second pitch of Into The Void. 3m right, onto clean wall and up. FA: Rod Kotkis, Jeff Boyton & Nicole Dombrain, 1999 | 10m | |||
18 | ★ Common Origin
Classic slab with balancey finish. Take a double set of cams and some slings (as there are a few placements in the same break) and a thin finger sized cam for the top. Up slight ramp to Ubolt, then hole, then carrot. Up wall past cams to DRB lower off situated 4 meters back on the next face (caution with drag), avoid the tree anchor as it causes wear. FA: Craig Martin & John Davis, 1982 | 15m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Burnt Out
Starts 6 m L of Wimples. Mantle to ledge with gnarly gum, past vegetation to short hand crack. Careful to protect the mantle. FA: Jyah S & Declan Everett-Morgan, Jun 2019 | 10m | |||
16 | ★ TPI
2m R of CS at crack. Up crack with some small wires. Good trad lead. Belay on large cams in break and back up to rings on left. | 10m | |||
15 | ★ Question Marks
Second crack on right side of wall,2m R of Candlelight up to break and lower off. Take care with the crucial wire on the crux. | 8m | |||
8 | Colonial Mentality
The corner crack at the far R end of the main slab. FA: Craig Martin (solo), 1984 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Sweet Mercury
Good crack climbing in 2 sections. The first crack 5m right of the cave. Thin hands to cave (you can stop and practise a trad belay here), then bulging hand and fist crack past ridiculous bolt near top. FA: Craig Martin, 1984 | 18m | |||
20 | ★ Shivering Jemmy
Short thin layback seam 10m right of Sweet Mercury and the big cave (but at ground level). Up layback seam (stickclip Ubolt?) and slabs past a good sling and another Ubolt to technical crack, then to lower offs. FA: Craig Martin & SID, 1984 | 20m, 1 | |||
Oxford Falls | |||||
16 | Snakes on the vertical plane
Up the right trending diagonal line to the ledge. Traverse the easy ledge to the pile of blocks on the left (Two snakes were encountred on the first ascent) . Belay from here. Straight up through slabs (litle gear for first 3 m's but easy climbing) to top out near abseil bolts. Not a lot of gear on the first pitch and you will need micro cams for what is there. FA: James Bultitude & Sam May, 2012 | 25m, 2 | |||
19 | Trad Ramble 1
FA: 2012 | ||||
9 | Trad Ramble 2
Scramble up to the left of the cave for a few metres, to the cleanest-looking blocky ramp. Up. FA: Sam May & James Bultitude | 12m | |||
Trad Ramble 3
Up near the waterfall proper. Climb the boulder on climber's left of the stream, crash through trees, then up the little headwall to top out right on the main rock platform. |
Showing all 25 routes.