Routes as trad in Northern Territory

Up the chimney using protection on the right and then using the face to top out at the crack to the right.

Up the face to the right of the chimney then stick to the left of the upper face.

Up the flared crack in the center of the front face. Using the upper level crack to climb right of the boulder under the roof. Once at roof traverse left over boulder and top out.

As for "Soft shell" but go over the boulder instead of around.

Start in the gully and straight up through the crack, go right under the top boulder and up again to top out.

Starting on platform at base of wall, climbing up the ramp to the obvious crack without using the boulder. Follow undercling to vertical fault line, go straight up from here using left side of face directly under the roof. Climb through the roof to finish.

Starting on platform at base of wall, climbing up the ramp to the obvious crack without using the boulder. Follow crack to right side of face and climb directly up without using the Arete.

Superb face climbing in the shade. Straight up the middle of the face then following the major line in the middle of the crackling on the upper face.

Chimney with a bunch of horizontal roots on in. Up the tight squeeze chimney without touching the trees along the way.

Squeeze up the chimney in the corner.

Up the crack slightly left, topping out under big boulder.

Up the flared chimney to left of large tree then pull through the roof to easy finish.

Start on left of same face as FLASC, but on left of the tree. Go up the shallow crack without starting on the boulder or touching the tree for any reason other than placing a sling around it for pro. Once at the roof, pull through and finish as per Cephalothorax.

Flawless face climbing, if a little run out. Half ropes highly recommended.

Start on boulder on right edge of face, once off the deck move left onto face and straight up into the large pocket dead center of wall. From there moving up and right to top out.

The crack to the right of FLASC. A fun well protected route with some interesting moves for the grade.

Twisted and seemingly featureless slab has tricky start. Easily recognizable by looking for white quartz veins on slab, on left side of valley. 50m right of Squirrel Slab. Very fun climb with excellent anchor pro at top.

Climb is all trad, micro cams recommended. Three bolts exist at the top of gully on right side. Requires ring or mallions to run rope through for descending. Potential for arete climb to right and short overhung face climb to left.

Obvious imposing corner/roof crack. Left of Goldhangers.

TREE IS OUT. Sustained climb, great fun.

Start as for 'The Bulge', then follow crack to left. Possibly one of the most underclimbed and under-rated climbs here. No pro at top traverse right to anchors for the bulge.

Fairly straight forward route. Up box boulders and exit onto slab. Straight up on slab with the smallest of nuts or just free-ball to the top and run it out.

Very thin and technical gear. Please climb with care

Rap in as per "Everything must Trundle" - Dubbed Chomp my rope the FA pulled a flake off that chomped his rope. To the right of "EMT" when facing out from atop Lyell ledge you will find a nice foot deep ledge at head height, the start of this climb nestled in the shade of a tree. a very interesting technical climbed that had the FA moving left and right across the face going from ledge to ledge. tricky top out, don't pull on anything too hard.

Dangerous route, Rap in off tree to bottom - Standing atop Lyell ledge you find a gnarled tree with a boulder leaning against it. below this is excellent overhung face climbing. To the right of that on the corner of the face is this interesting, scary and ultimately trundled route. A couple more climbs might clean it up. Be very sure about your gear.

Obvious Face on front of free bird pinnacle when looking from the access road. Reachy Crux begins at the vertical crack. Easy but committing overhang leads to pleasant exposure before top out. Carrot bolts lower off. Sling left on top.

Short hanging corner just to the right of Freebird. Committing moves up into the corner lead to an easy finish.

Nice looking obvious crack line up back of the Freebird Pinnacle, looks like it should continue left onto ledge however at that point move right under roof for sparingly protected top out. Watch the loose rock. 2BB

Start as Mambo No. 5, however exit left onto ledge. More difficult then youd think, first ascenders both had to whale to get over the lip with no protection above once exiting the crack.

Starts in poorly protected corner just left of Death Adder on nice rock, degenerates into very sandy, chossy and poorly protected tubular groove to top. Very scary for the grade. 2BB

Obvious crack to the immediate left of RDC.

Very nice meandering left facing traverse, Start up large crack to the left of the RDC, then continue along seam onto slabby face, continue left to last BR then easily up. 3BR, 2BB

Easiest line straight up the CP face, on really nice rock. 2BR, 2BB

The dominant line up the front wall of this pillar. Start up vertical crack to roof, traverse right and out from under roof using horizontal crack. Finish up flaring crack on RHS of pinnacle. Some loose rock on this one! 2BB

Obviously named after a dog, as this somewhat obvious left curving crack on the back of the pinnacle stands out like the proverbial dogs balls. Follows obvious line, step off onto easy ledge for a rest at any time. 2BB

Just right of HRF around the corner is a very sunny little wall. This somewhat testy little number follows the flake on the right side of the wall up to a prominent horizontal. Delicate bulgy moves to BR.

Starting on the left face of this pillar negotiate awkward move to small ledge and BR. Traverse left towards left arête of this rather unusual looking slabby wall, then up past 2BR. 3BR, 2BB

Start as for UN1, step left to BR then straight up middle of wall easily to a very satisfying and well protected technical finish. Excellent exposure, be sure to take some very small nuts for good measure. 2BR, 2BB

Start as for UN1 and 2. From ledge follow poorly protected and unusual right leaning arête to a very welcome BR. Very Delicate and technical finish. 2BR, 2BB

A great route, which could be greater without the rope drag. Climb UN2 lo ledge, gain right leaning arête, and pull right onto front face of the pinnacle using a prominent horizontal break. Delicate move right and up to top of pillar 4 BR, 2BB A harder companion route exists traversing this same pinnacle left-right graded approximately 19. The front overhanging face of this pinnacle has been the scene of much frantic top roping

Beautiful big right facing crack that eats big SLCDs. Start on block (or with a jump!) and head right using strange move onto pedestal where crack starts to thin. Up from there.

Starts on the understory below AGAB, climb the steepish but juggy wall, till you reach an interesting and technical move on a flaring crack. You are now in the Batcave (again). Looking up from here is a short and steep looking jam crack. This is the as yet unfreed second pitch of this climb…. It is there for the taking.

Start on right hand side of the wall, up easily to horizontal break and first piece of protection. Traverse left to prominent v shaped groove. Follow this up. A great if wandering climb, that requires careful attention when placing natural gear. Twin ropes could also make this easier

Worthless, loose and dangerous pile of steaming crap right and around corner from HATS.

The finest offering in this area to date, on some lovely hard rock Layback immaculate flake to a stance under prominent roof, and BR. Pull around the roof on some nice crimps. Straight up from there. Possibly a soft touch at the grade. 2BR

Start as for BD, then through roof using a combination of roots and fistjams. Finish up wall to the right of BD.

Sttepish and tricky right hand crack line. 8m, 20

Poorly protected and pumps you hard. Left crack line

Short sweet and cruisy. Great first beginners trad lead up easy angled crack at far right hand end of the wall. Can be a little dirty and dusty. 2CB

Starts nicely below large crack to the left of STE. Rapidly turns into a desperate, awkward squirming horror story.

Contrived and very spasely protected line between Habib and sleek. Exists reallyonly to run the shop and cook the Pizzas.

Just to the right of Guten Arven is an obvious crack leaning slightly left. Climb up past 1CB to gain crack, crack to ledge and finish up small hanging corner.

Carrots and Rings on top

The disgusting looking off width crack to the right of Nice Crack

Up the obvious crack system, on small wires and cams. Lower off carrot bolts shared with Pink Moon.

Obvious pencil thin crack up to a small corner. Two carrots on top.

Opposing side to Mr Speaker, crack on the far left running to horizontal break, over onto rough slanted face and top out onto poorly spaced carrot bolt anchor. Lower off chain Mr Speaker.

Opposing side to Mr Speaker, slight crack in centre of face indicated by dark rock, up into horizontal relief and out onto face with no protection to run-out top out. Finish on poorly spaced carrot bolts, lower off chain on Mr Speaker.

Face starting from right crack on the opposing side of Mr Speaker. This was first climbed as a Solo to retrieve a stuck rope.

Up the crack near the Ararat and around the tree through the roof. Good moves down low.

Up the off width crack, use the face as required. Through the roof to the Right, avoiding the rock behind will add a few grades to the climb. Sparse gear down low.

Follow the zig zag crack through the roof. Crux is getting onto the platform below the roof. Jugs galore above the roof inspires confidence for the exposed move.

Aptly named after Toby's first accent.

Follow the L hand crack up. At about 20m it becomes a scramble to the top so bring your partner up and walk the rest.

JUST BEFORE THE APARTMENTS

First wall on RHS of gorge, 3/4 of the way along. Small face with lateral seam and single bolt above. Climb starts directly under the bolt for 14, or start on RHS of bolt for 12/13. Climb straight up. 1BR

Actually starts L and 5m below the boulder platform. Trend R up the wall and short cracks to the ledge and top.

Up the short narrow chimney, then up to the ledge and up the slightly overhanging wall on the right. Beware loose blocks on top

Start a metre or so L of the obvious corner on the right of the recessed wall. Up and slightly L via the square-cut notch at the top.

The pretty corner on the right of the recessed wall. Pity there isn’t a hundred metres of it!

Starts impressively, but then fizzles out. Right of the chimney is a white wall with a thin crack up the middle. Start below this, then break through the overhang, and so on to glory.

Is there no end to these mega-classics? The broken crack and corner system up the LHS of the black wall. Left across the short wall at the clean corner, then stay right of the arête to the top.

Obvious laid back black wall with numerous horizontal breaks. Climb straight up just about anywhere, following lines of good holds and mega pro (small SLCDs). A “sustained grade 8”, good for beginners.

For lovers of contrivance… Variant linkup route in the nursery combining 3 existing routes. Start up Cyclone Rachel & through the small rooflet, move across and up the Gentle Breeze slab. Finish up Zephyr. Belay of top block

The obvious large right slanting crack system right of Gentle Breeze. Up the crack, stepping left below the roof to belay.

Start at the left slanting crack 3m right of Storm in a Teacup. Follow the crack towards Storm in a Teacup, but take the face and short flake immediately right of the deep V crack when the two lines merge. Belay as for Storm in a Teacup.

Start on the rib immediately right of Gone with the Wind. Follow the vague line up and right towards the large fig tree. Up the precarious blocks above staying left of the arête. Belay on top - down climb into the gully to find suitable anchors, then scramble back up.

Up right of Zephyr is a deep crack with a small roof about 2.5m above the ground. Bridge delicately past the roof, then follow the crack more easily to the large fig tree. Good cam placements.

The crack immediately right of Low Pressure System, passing right of the tree

I wish! It’s the arête a couple of metres right of Windsome, Loosesome, but starting at ground level (about 5m lower). Up the indistinct line just right of the rib, then step left and up the front of the last bit.

Start around the RHS of the last pillar right of the Nursery, a few metres right of Cool Change and just left of the walk down. Wander up to summit

Much coveted, seldom repeated. Razor sharp flake on at start through overhang to thinish wall. 1 bolt, rest on natural gear

Start at the immediate left of Where Dick Goes Down, up to the immediate right and over the overhang. No use of Where Dick Goes Down or right of it.

First line on the LHS of the Sanctuary, named for Richard’s impressive first descent, and remains today as somewhat of a testpeice. Overhanging start with open corner above. If you want to cheat, stick clip the fixed hanger, then grunt, groan and hernia your way to a rest at 5m. Beware of patch of manky water affected choss at mid height. Easily up corner. 1BR

Named after the Ashton’s’ delicious lunch on the day of the FRA. The crack 2m right of Where Dick Goes Down.

Steep, tree roots currently encroaching on crack (2007)

Thin sharp face to the right of BB. Straight up face past 1 FH to prominent ledge. Interesting finish up RH arête of top block. 1BRThin...

mixture of bolts and small pro needed.

The line of awesome power 5m right of BB, which had repulsed revolted at least two aspirants before finally succumbing. Take a couple of big cams.

too short

The finger width crack one move right of SS. Short and sweet. Since immortalized by Arullan’s 8 gear placements in 2 metres!

The first impressive offering by this up and coming pair of talented young superstars. A further move right of MM is a wider broken crack which is chimney width initially. Grovel up it to the pile of boulders, and continue up the right hand line above if you can be bothered. Sounds delightful.

Perfect beginner lead, gear, gear and more gear

The best looking line hereabouts. Follow the left hand line steeply at first. The angle then eases before the final vertical section.

Start half a move right of SH. Easily up into the chimney, then grovel through the slot leaving behind as little skin as possible. A No. 4 Camelot (or similar humungous SLCD) at the back of the slot protects it nicely. Don’t even breathe on the horrendously loose horizontal flake!

Corner to the right of Rambler

Really Fun and a big psych out for the grade. This climb has some loose blocks, but a very good climb nonetheless.

Up the exposed face and overhang that faces the valley on the front of the buttress. Good number 7 nut placement above and slightly right of the first roof section.

Stiff at 16, challenging at 17. Great pro.

The obvious crack line through the roof and up the face on the RHS of the face of the buttress (just left around the corner from VO) just left of the arête.

Possibly the crag classic, very cute technical crux.

Starts under the small roof around LHS of the outcrop, just right of the corner. Up to the roof (solo or small cams). Clip the FH and straight up past 3 more FH’s and small wire/SLCD placements. 4BR,1BB.

Nasty and dangerous downclimb off back of pillar as "walk off"

The buttress wall tapering to a pillar just left of and at right angles to Sports Plus. Up the buttress to ledge, launch straight up following good holds and pro (large cams).

Belay from ledge at base of hand crack inside of pillar. Climb the crack without stemming or using the left hand wall, through the roof to finish. Taping up essential. Given stars as it is the only pure jamming route in the region.

I liked it.... others don't, could be hard for shorter folk

Climb chimney with prominent overhung crack on right hand side behind Gnomes Roam. Exit from chimney through bulge.

Nice climb, walk off as for Where Gnomes Roam- Nasty

On the left side of GR. Start on ledge about 3 metres up from the bottom, and up the lovely juggy arete to the top.

Thin and improbable looking face with very scarce protection 10m upslope from KBL. Bouldery start leading to crimpy face moves to ledge. Easier but poorly protected finish. Do not attempt without a black alien or SLCD of similar diminutive stature.

Crack to the left of BAOS. Straight up obvious line

The next corner left of WTB. Carefully up the groove past some Friend pockets to the ledge. Then follow the crack above and right on better rock. Watch out for paper wasp nests and bats.

Start from the high platform round the back and wander up to the top.