Help

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Dylan Edwards Andy Beckworth Adam Huddleston Cameron Roy Paul Badenoch Jason Morton John Hudson Matthew Broadbent Thomas Boehm

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Norton Summit 223 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -0.000818, 138.709413

description

Refer to Access Issues for further information. One of the most important cliffs in South Australia due to proximity to the CBD , the dense amount of mid-range to harder routes (especially 24 to 32) , and of great historical significance to SA climbers. Access however is by negotiation (through the CCSA and landowners) , so strict rules apply. Refer to Access Issues.

© (boardlord)

access issues

  1. Climbers must leave the cliff PRIOR to sundown.

  2. Peregrine falcon nesting seasons adhered to. No climbing above the cave.

  3. Ensure your car displays a CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) sticker at all times when parked.

  4. Keep noise to a minimum. ACCESS IS SENSITIVE. ABIDE BY THE RULES. REFER TO ADELAIDE HILLS CLIMBING GUIDE FOR FURTHER INFORMATION OR CONTACT THE CCSA.

  5. Access to the crag is prohibited on Total Fire Ban days

© (boardlord)

ethic

Sport climbing, mostly higher grades (23-32).

© (boardlord)

1.1. The Far Left Wing 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.922422, 138.712900

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nicks and Nooks 15 Trad 25m
2 Slaps and Shrieks 20 Trad 25m
3 Gropes and Gasps 19 Trad 25m
4 Bulges and Bellyflops 15 Trad 30m

1.2. The Cave 84 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -0.000022, 138.712924

description

Routes are described left to right.

© (boardlord)

access issues

Private land with climbing club of SA arrangements. No climbing before sunrise or after sunset. No climbing on total fire ban days for Mt Lofty ranges. CCSA sticker visible on climbers cars. No climbing above cave lip or outside designated areas.

© (boardlord)
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Graunch 13 Trad
2 Boulder Problem 13 Trad
3 The Hindley Hustle 19 Trad 20m
4 Uptown Eugene 21 Trad 20m
5 Uptown Eugene RHV 23 Trad 20m
6 Little Rundle Street

The line 2m left of 'Trundle down rundle' - 5 bolts

FFA: Adam Gower, 2012

23 Sport 20m, 5
7 The Mall's Falls

The unbolted line in between Little Rundle St and Trundle Down Rundle. Veer left and then thin cruxy moves to move right into Trundle just before Little Rundle St does.

FA: Mike Garrett, 20 Dec 2020

24 Top rope 20m
8 Trundle Down Rundle

Graded 24 until a large jug ripped off, courtesy of Mr Baker. Now a soft-touch 25 power-endurance fest. Takes the left most chalked weakness past a line of rings bolts and positive holds to a fingery crux at the last bolt. One of the best routes at the Summit.

25 Sport 20m, 4
9 Trundle RHF / Trawler

Trundle to third bolt, then right into Gawler Bypass. New bolts and anchor to replace manky cam and rusty bolts.

24 Sport 7
10 City To Bay

Trundle down rundle to it's 3rd bolt, then break right to a fixed draw, follow the traverse right, another fixed draw, then through the roof into Space to rent. Finish at the ANZAC chains.

FA: 2012

24 Sport 8
11 Gawler Bypass 24 Trad
12 Hyperspace Bypass

Space to Rent to under the roof then break left and finish up Gawler Bypass. Originally done on trad.

24 Trad 20m
13 Anzac Space

Anzac to the 4th bolt then left (across Pivoting Head/RERL traverse) into Space to Rent - finishing as for Anzac. Take a long draw for the 5th.

24 Sport 15m, 8
14 Space to Rent

Approx 2m left of the start to 'Anzac'. Trad start to old bolts leads to the RERL traverse line (at the roof). Head directly through roof approx 5m left of Anzac line and finish as for Anzac. Now bolted.

24 Sport 6
15 Pivoting Head

Established by Carrigan in '81, now superceded by Grurper DS & Crossroads. Up Grurper LH (rarely done) to good rest before traversing out right into the finish of what is now Crossroads.

24 Mixed trad 17m, 7
16 Run Every Red Light

Anzac Highway to its 4th bolt, then break left along the horizontal to join Trundle Down Rundle at its final ring bolt (crux).

FA: Steve Kelly, 2006

25 Sport 25m, 7
17 Space to Amble

Climb Space to Rent to jugs just past the 4th (rusty note 2 new bolts have been added to the start of space to rent) bolt then traverse right to the 4th bolt of Anzac Highway Amble. Finish up Anzac

24 Sport 6
18 Anzac Highway Amble

Up 4 bolts Lt of Grurper direct. Then traverse up and Lt past 2 more bolts to chains. DBB

FA: Tony Barker, 2000

23 Sport 25m, 7
19 Grurper LHV

Up between Anzac Highway Amble and Grurper DS to a groove. Escape up R to the Grurper ledge. Features guano, poor rock and marginal protection.

FA: Colin Reece & Chris Shepherd, 1980

21 Trad 13m
20 Grurper Amble

A link up that a lot of people do (surprised to see it was not here yet). Grurper to its anchor, then head left into AHA to make a long and nice pitch, where the traverse between routes is the only spicy addition. 23** in the CCSA mini guide to the summit. A tad harder than Grurper, but more similar in grade to that climb than to Anzac, so keeping 23 here as per the mini guide, but 22 would also be fair.

23 Sport 25m, 7
21 Grurper DS

Start: Left of 'Crossroads'

Straight up to the exciting move onto the big ledge. 3 bolts to rap station. NB: The original Grurper starts near North Terrace Stroll and gains the big ledge from the R.

22 Sport 10m, 3
22 Grurper pitch 1

The left-trending trenchline, starting near the base of NTS. Most people place gear along the way. When it joins Crossroads, move up clipping two bolts then step L to the big ledge with the belay biners. NB: this is not Grurper DS which has 3 bolts and climbs directly to the ledge.

FA: Roger Alldritt & John Nitschke, 1972

FFA: Colin Reece & Gary Scott, 1979

21 Mixed trad 17m, 2
23 Crossroads

An excellent addition made up of a steep bouldery start, a pumpy big-hold mid-section, then morphing into a somewhat technical slabby finish. Finish at the chain of 'North Terrace Stroll'.

FA: Peter Daish

25 Sport 20m
24 Crossroads Direct Finish / Crossroads RHV

Not particularly popular and somewhat contrived. Still worth it, particularly if you have route fitness (crux at the top). Follows Crossroads to the roof, then breaks right past underclings to gain the thin letterbox slot in the hanging headwall. Choose a sequence (dynamic or static option) then finish as for North Terrace Stroll. Extended draws for both headwall bolts are mandatory.

FA: Craig Ingram, 2006

27 Sport 20m
25 Crossroads Direct LHV

Climb Crossroads to the roof (where it joins Pivoting Head) then traverse right above the lip of the roof to the draw above the North Terrace Stroll roof, and keep going right to the KPDM chains. Unsure on the grade - but felt harder than Tim and easier than Crossroads Direct.

FA: Paul Kinnane, 4 Jan 2020

26 Sport 7
26 Strolling

Once considered to be 'the 29 project' - that was until Mick waltzed up it during his Summit love affair - grading it 7b+ (26) - at a time when he was doing 28's in two or three tries. Takes The Stroll to the roof, then traverses left into large underclings to gain the Crossroads RHV crux, and finishes as for that. Previously unrecorded. Could be 28.

FA: Mick Wells, 2013

27 Sport
27 Ticket to Ride / (Linkup)

IP to the roof, then traverse left through Payneham, past North Terrace and head through the roof of Strolling/Crossroads direct

FA: Thomas Boehm, 12 Sep 2020

29 Sport 20m
28 Crossing the Stroll

Links the start of Crossroads into the finish of North Terrace Stroll. Classic.

FA: Craig Ingram, 2006

25 Sport 20m
29 Evolution of an Hourglass

Start up Crossroads, go into The Stroll at its rest point, then prior to main (top) roof - traverse right into KPDM. Finish as for this.

FA: JayT, 2006

27 Sport 23m
30 Evolution of a Wine Glass

Crossroads then diagonally right into KPDM then traverse the lip of the small roof to join Peregrine at its anchor.

23 Sport
31 Evolution of a Beer Glass

KPDM with the Crossroads start. Crossroads for first 2/3 bolts, then traverse right into The Stroll gaining the big jugs up and left of the fixed 'biner, then finish up the remainder of KPDM.

26 Sport 23m, 7
32 North Terrace Stroll

Quite a hard onsight. Unlikely moves epitomise both crux's of this outstanding route, which breaks through the top main roof on its leftside (past the fixed 'biner).

Start: Start below a very high 1st ring bolt, climb to this, then onwards to the fixed blue 'biner (1st crux). Take the left-trending line of jugs up and left then through the main roof and up.

25 Sport 20m
33 KPDM / Kensington Park Duck Massacre

Takes the right-hand major roof weakness. Start as for NTS and follow it to the blue 'biner. Keep on track heading left but then kick back right through the overlap to the lip jug. Make a hard slab move to reach the break, then blast straight through the main roof via the obvious line (fixed 'biner). Back jump from the last bolt to clean.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

FA: Stuart Willams, 2000

27 Sport 20m
34 Pain on Payneham

Climb KPDM to the top roof, then traverse with trepidation leftwards to the finish of 'North Terrace Stroll'. Could do with another bolt!

FA: Stefan Schiller

26 Sport 23m
35 Pushin' Into Payneham

Links Itchy Fingered into Payneham

FA: Justin Taylor, 2006

28 Sport 25m
36 Itchy Fingered FNG

To screwgate on Stroll then up and right to Peregrine belay

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

26 Sport 10m
37 Lost Property / KPDM Direct

KPDM Direct, slightly harder than KP, but easier than IP! Takes North Terrace Stroll to the fixed biner (2nd bolt) then fires directly up through the post-crux moves of Intellectual Property and rejoins KPDM at it's 3rd bolt. Consistent!

FFA: Nick Miguel Ducker, 2018

27 Sport
38 Intellectual Property / (KPDM link up)

Links Itchy Fingered into KPDM - a longstanding problem finally solved.

FA: Steve Pollard, 2000

28 Sport 20m
39 IP Extension

At the lip of IP, head right and run it out to the chains of Eddie, finishing up that routes extension. Surprisingly good, rope drag isnt too bad considering..

FA: Thomas Boehm, Jan 2020

28 Unknown 25m
40 Slanted and Enchanted

Start up 'Peregrine' RHV until through its crux. Clip the bolt of 'Brotherhood' and traverse left into Itchy Fingered. Continue and finish as for 'North Terrace Stroll'.

FA: Craig Ingram

26 Sport 25m
41 Peregrine / Peregrine 1st pitch

Local warm up route.

21 Sport 9m, 3
42 Peregrine Pitch Two

Bear up R, then through a roof and up the wall to a DBB.

The original Peregrine 17M5 had 5 pitches but climbing above the 2nd pitch is off limits.

FA: Stuart Fishwick, Richard Horn & Doug McLean, 1970

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Jon Chester & Greg Moore, 1979

23 Trad 14m
43 Brotherhood of the Black Chicken

An eliminate! Takes a contrived lefthand version of 'Peregrine' past an additional fixed hanger. Finish at the loweroff of PRHV.

23 Sport 7m
44 Peri Peri Chicken

As contrived as its name! Start up 'Peregrine RHV', and at the first bolt traverse left below the crux to the first bolt of 'Peregrine'. Finish up 'Brotherhood of the Black Chicken'.

23 Sport 9m, 4
45 Peregrine RHV

The most fallen off crux move at the Summit. Takes the easy juggy start below the 1st ring bolt to a big move for a well-chalked crimp/slope - and a reach out left to a jug. Finish up on the slab.

23 Sport 9m, 3
46 Coming at ya Pussy / Punching / Punching the Pussy

Climb 'Peregrine LHV' and then launch up the rest of Eddie. Can also be done via the RHV start at roughly the same grade.

FA: Andy Beckworth

24 Sport 15m, 4
47 Pussy Extension / Punching Extension

Pussy into Kill Like a Madam finish (pitch 2 of Peregrine finish) aka 2nd chain. Plenty of ascents, just previously unrecorded. Hard for the grade!

24 Sport
48 Eddie-Peregrine

Been done ages ago but not recorded on this site. Up Eddie until it reaches out left within a move of Peregrine then finish up that route.

23 Sport
49 Eddie Misses the Point

A Summit classic. Optimal power-endurance climbing at the grade. Start as for 'Peregrine' RHV but launch directly up past the 1st bolt to a 2nd. Break back left via a crimpy move (crux) into 'Pussy' and finish at the chain.

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

25 Sport 15m, 4
50 Eddie Extension

Eddie Misses the Point into Kill Like a Madam finish (2nd pitch of Peregrine). Unrecorded previously but had plenty of ascents.

25 Sport
51 Why So Serious?

Climb Eddie or Tim to the chain then against your better judgement, launch up and left through a runout extension to finish on the KPDM anchor.

FA: Justin Taylor, 2015

26 Sport 16m, 5
52 Kill like a Madam

Link 'TITG" into 2nd pitch of peregrine.

FA: simon wilson

26 Sport 23m
53 Tim in the Gym

Has had more laps run on it than the 'Adelaide' Oval... Start as for Eddie, then trend rightwards to the big roof. Clip the lip bolt, dyno, and finish directly at the chain. A tad harder than Eddie.

26 Sport 15m
54 Hutt Street Homies

A worth while traverse which will test your shoulders and has enough independent moves to be worth while. Start as for Eddie and climb to it’s second bolt. Now climb directly right to the second bolt of Dudley via a big span move. Then move up and right via another span move through the second bolt of Don’t Rain on the Parade, climb Parade to its the mantle, then traverse right to the chains of Natives are Restless. (Or finish up Rain on the Parade for the full package - Eddie and Dudleys Excellent Adventure)

FA: Phil Davis, 16 Aug 2020

26 Sport 7
55 Eddie and Dudley’s Excellent Adventure / The Excellent Adventure

The full package! Climb Hutt Street Homies to the Mantle of Don’t Rain on the Parade and finish as for that route (@ Kill Like a Madam / Peregrine p3 chains)

FA: Phil Davis, 13 Aug 2020

26 Sport 10
56 The Mini Adventure

The shorter, easier and original version of Eddie and Dudley’s Excellent Adventure. Start up Dudley in the Gym, then break right under the Tim dyno to pull the crux moves and join Rain on the Parade. Milk the rest after the traverse then finish as for Rain to the top (2nd) chains.

FA: Mike Garrett, 2 Aug 2020

25 Sport 22m, 9
57 Dudley in the Gym / Shell Shock

A tad easier than Tim! The direct start to Tim, climbing straight up to the roof from the right side of the Cave.

25 Sport 15m
58 Don't Rain on The Parade

FA: Michael Hillan

24 Sport 25m, 4
59 The Natives are Restless P1

Start 2m R of the corner. Climb past 2 bolts to a horizontal, traverse R to 3rd and then a technical finish to DBB on the R.

21 Sport 10m, 3
60 Black Dwarf / The Attack of the Headless Peregrine 20/21 Trad
61 Red Dwarf

Shallow groove between Black Dwarf and Easy Peasy. Solo. Probably been TR'd before.

FA: 2011

20 Trad 9m
62 Easy Peasy

Furthest right hand line of bolts on right side of Cave as you walk in.

20 Sport 10m
63 Pedestrian Rule 24 Trad
64 AUMC Route 15 Trad
65 AUMC Route DF 15 Trad
66 Trout Fishing in America 22 Trad
67 Endive 23 Trad
68 Don't Panic

A varied and sensationally exposed single pitch climbing the entire height of the top cave.Start as for endive,but instead of heading to the corner (and belay ledge) stay in the crack, a couple of committing moves above gear lead to the traverse on endive's second pitch, follow this traverse to the line of bolts in the middle of the cave and follow the bolts to the small ledge a couple of metres above the last bolt. Best to lower from the top bolt to avoid trashing the area above the cave.

FA: 2015

26 Mixed trad 30m, 3
69 Chad's project

The line of bolts up the middle of the cave, great line with a couple of very hard moves in the roof.

SportProject
70 TB or not TB

The bolted route at the right hand end of the top cave, don't let the start put you off a good route.

24 Sport
71 Somebody Put Something in My Drink

FA: Mark Witham & Stuart Williams, 1988

14 Trad 12m

1.2.1. Cave Bouldering 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Bouldering

description

Random list of some of the more popular problems in the Cave

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Thing V4 Boulder
2 The Weakest Link V5 Boulder
3 Pinch Two Eliminate V4 Boulder
4 Ronnie's Summit Dyno V6 Boulder
5 The Big Dyno V4 Boulder
6 Standard Cave Traverse (High) V0 Boulder
7 Crystal Undercling V3 Boulder
8 The Iron Cross V3 Boulder
9 Standard Cave Traverse (Low) V2 Boulder
10 Sharik's Problem V9 Boulder
11 Luke's Undercling V5 Boulder
12 Peregrine LH Footless

Footless to the 2nd bolt

V3 Boulder
13 Peregrine Circuit

Peregrine RHV to after crux then downclimb Peregrine LHV and back to start. Slightly harder in reverse.

V3 Boulder

1.3. The Hole 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -34.922164, 138.712030

description

Intro Adelaide’s premier (only) sport climbing venue The Summit is a site to behold. Carpeted, in situ couch and mats it is a place to sit back, relax and wait for someone else to put the draws in for you! But The Summit is not for the faint hearted, the climbing is powerful and steep. Christ even the slabs are steep! The routes are predominantly bolted with either stainless expansion or glue in rings and are in good condition (at the time of writing) with most routes finishing with lower offs.

© (boardlord)

approach

The Summit is located on The Old Norton Summit Road, in the next valley south of Morialta. To get there drive east out of the city and head up Magill Road. Continue straight onto The Old Norton Summit Road for 2.7km, the parking is on the right hand side. The easiest place to turn around is a small pull out 100m past the car park on the right. Once you have turned around, facing back towards town, park on the left hand side being considerate of others as there is limited space. Walk down the hill, west, and the track to the crag is on the left. Walk up the steep track taking the time to read the sign on the right. Refer to ACCESS CONSIDERATIONS for further important information regarding this topic. After the big steps the track levels off and branches, the left path to the Cave 1 min, and the right heads up the Hole, 12 secs.

© (boardlord)

ethic

Noise levels

This is a public area so please be considerate of others by keeping noise, music and swearing to a minimum. Think about taking a rubbish bag with you to help keep the place clean.

Imports/exports (rubbish/mats/tape)

Normal rules apply, take everything with you, this includes finger tape and cigarette butts. Help keep rubbish to a minimum by removing any badly damaged mats before they create an unsightly mess.

© (boardlord)
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Come Out Fighting Start

Come Out Fighting past the small two-finger pocket to the pinch then to the hold just under the main roof.

V6 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Come Out Fighting

First line of bolts on your left as you enter the Hole. Stuart Williams with the vision and Sharik Walker with the send. Originally graded 29. V10 if you boulder it.

FA: Sharik Walker, 1998

30 Sport 8m
3 Stay in Hiding

Come Out Fighting extension. "Climb to the glued on ear hold then head right to the circus street chain, then all the way out to the end!"

FA: Mick Wells, 2014

31 Sport
4 Catch & Match

Previously unrecorded but climbed years ago (like 100's of others). A 3-move problem. Start on a gaston crimp and small pocket, launch RH to the sloper, match, then straight to Boing's finish hold.

V5 Unknown 2m
5 Match Maker

Start with 2 finger pockets, LH move to small ledge, then RH to 1finger pocket, match on slope ledge, jug to finish.

V3 Boulder 2m
6 Boing is the Word

Sit-start with right hand in big shothole left of 'The Shining Path' and left hand in two finger pocket then make a 'La Rose' move out left (RH) to a 2/3-finger pocket then left hand to the big pinch. Up to 3/4-finger pocket (RH), then all the way to the top jug with your left. Match. 5 move classic eliminate.

V5 Boulder 3m
7 Clutch-Boing Link

As per name. Clutch into Boing is the Word.

V6 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Clutch

An attempt at a sloper problem in the Hole! Start matched on sloper above Boing pocket. Move left to sloper and match that. Move left again to sloper then cross under with right hand to sloper (crux) below glued jug. Match (or not) that and up easily to glued jug.

FA: Andy Beckworth, 1997

V5 Boulder 2m
9 Swing Thing LH

Dyno Problem from the starting hold of TC, to jug to the R.

V4 Boulder 2m
10 Swing Thing RH

Start on lower slopers just R of the jug, dyno to jug.

V4 Boulder 2m
11 Pinch Punch V4 Boulder 3m
12 French Maid

Boulder route just left of The Shining Path through the roof finishing at SP chain.

V10 Boulder
13 The Shining Path

Very short power route mainly on underclings ending at the padlocked chain. Given 30 by Matt it was downgraded by Stuart Williams on the 2nd ascent to 29. Now a V10 boulder problem.

FA: Matt Adams, 1993

V10 Boulder 7m
14 The Shining Burger

Links the Shining Path into the top of Filipino Furburger. Grade 30 route.

FA: Trent Searcy, Feb 2017

V11 Boulder 9m
15 Shining Burger Out

Climb Shining Path take the rest then launch into Filipino all the way to the final chains.

FA: mattwarner, 15 Jan 2022

31 Sport
16 Burger Fight

Filipino Path boulder then traverse leftwards to the chains on Come Out Fighting

FA: trentsearcy, 2021

30 Sport
17 Filipino Path

Filipino to the 2nd good pocket, then left through sidepull to finish at the Shining Path padlocked chain.

V8 Boulder 6m
18 Filipino Furburger

Originally established by Matt Adams, short extension to the circus street chains later added by Sharik Walker. Takes the very overhanging pocket line just left of the marked Stugang start.

FA: Matt Adams & sharik walker, 1994

29 Sport 9m
19 Filippino Out

or alternately "Filipino Furburger" into "Nirvanoxyne" FA: Trent Searcy 2012

FA: Trent Searcy, 2012

31 Sport 15m
20 Victims of Crime

A traverse starting at Stugang and then linking into Clutch-Boing Link.

FA: Andy Beckworth, 1997

V7 Unknown
21 Stugang Willich

Marked with STUGANG! The original boulder/route in the hole and still the best. Hard move up to LH pinch/sidepull, then slightly right into undercling and onwards. Finish at the double shotholed break (original line did not use right hand undercling at the top).

FA: Stuart Williams, 1993

V7 Boulder 6m
22 Stugang Right Hand

Previously unrecorded but done decades ago. Scartrek start to the RH sidepull pocket, then LH into a sidepull undercling, cross RH to the good edge on Stugang, then into the undercling crux of that route. Finish as for Stugang.

V7 Boulder 6m
23 Stugang Ext Bloc

Stugang Extension past the hard gaston move, finishing on the Circus Street jug.

V8 Boulder
24 Stugang Willich Extension

The obvious extension to Stugang, coming off the shotholes straight into a gaston crux, then linking into 'Dr Strike' to finish. Has been soloed, but not regularly!

FA: Matt Adams, 1994

28 Sport 12m
25 Stugang and the 7 Draws

Stugang Extension to Circus Street chain ie Snack Related Mishap into Nirvanoxyne.

Start: As for Stugang.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2006

31 Sport 16m
26 Snack Related Mishap

Start as for Stugang and climb this through the extension crux, then finish as for 'Circus Street'.

FA: Matt Adams, 1995

28 Sport 10m
27 Stugang Extension Extension / Super Extension

Stugang Extension into the finish of 'Wormhole'.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2007

30/31 Sport 16m
28 International Passport to Smoking Pleasure

Climb Stugang then up via undercling to Circus Street chains.

FA: Matt Adams, 1995

28 Sport 10m
29 Osaki Dolphin

Sit start just below Stugang on undercling and boulder slightly right.

Has been linked into Stugang or Scartrek and goes at V7.

FA: Andy Beckworth, 1997

V5 Boulder
30 Mr Choss

International passport to the cave entrance. The most direct line in the Hole.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2009

31 Sport 12m
31 Scartrek the Next Laceration

Dynamic boulder problem starting at the base of Stugang but heading right to the sidepull pocket. Dyno out to the 3-finger pocket in the roof, then out to the hard-to-hit slot, finishing up and right on the big jug under the main roof (Diplomacy's rest).

FA: Simon Wilson, 1995

V7 Boulder 7m
32 Scartrek Diplomacy Linkup

Start up Scartrek, then finish up Diplomacy at the shotholes.

V8 Boulder
33 Nirvanoxyne

Starts as for 'Scartrek' but avoids the Scatrek finish and instead launches straight into the last half of 'Diplomacy'. Then does the Stugang 'Extension' crux moves, followed by the finish of 'Circus Street'. Continue all the way out to the entrance to the cave.

FA: Fred Bonnet, 2005

31/32 Sport
34 Feral Muffins

Start as for 'Diplomacy' then go direct through roof on pockets through the worst rock in the Hole. Ends as a boulder problem on the Dr Strike jug (the hole), but was done on a rope by Matt to that routes finish (grade 31).

FA: Matt Adams, 1995

V10 Boulder 7m
35 CO2

Scartrek-Diplomacy link then Stugang Ext gaston crux into The Wormhole Search.

FA: Fred Bonnet, 2009

33 Sport
36 Slime

Starts seated right of Osaki Dolphin, traverse under Scartrek over the slime to the Wormhole search via pocket, edges and underclings then end on Diplomacy jug!

FA: Trent Searcy, 2023

V11 Boulder
37 Scarf**kers Inc.

Sit-start on undercling/pocket between Stugang Willich and Diplomacy (currently has a chalked S below). Head left through right-hand hold to gain a good left-hand undercling. Move up through a right-hand crimp to gain the first pocket on Scartrek with left-hand and finish as for this route. If you cross under to Scartrek pocket and finish up Stugang take 9. Three stars FA Trent Searcy 2021.

FA: Seth

V8 Boulder
38 Scarfuckers into Stugang / Steep in the Deep

Start as for Starfuckers but at the sloper cross under to Scartrek pocket sidepull and then up Stugang RHV to finish. Classic flow.

FA: trentsearcy

V9 Boulder
39 Diplomacy into Scartrek

Start as for Diplomacy and head left into Scartrek to finish.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

V8 Boulder
40 Fred's Wormhole Problem

aka the start to The Wormhole Search. Just left of Diplomacy gain reasonable sidepull (RH in Diplomacy pocket) then gaston awkward pocket to press up and left into thinner 3-finger (often wet). Lunge for the jammed block in roof, then Diplomacy jugs.

V8 Boulder
41 The Wormhole Search

Fred's finest linkup. Given 33 but settled at 32 after repeats? Start as for 36, then through Stugang Extension crux then climb the holds just right of circus street linking back to the end of the cave.

32 Sport
42 Moustaki

Wormhole Search into Nirvanoxyne.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2008

31/32 Sport
43 Ultra Pleasure Vibe Bloc

Ultra Pleasure Vibe to the Circus Street jug.

V8 Boulder
44 Ultra Pleasure Vibe 2000

Climb the 'Scartrek' boulder problem. Just shy of the Stugang shotholes, move into a big undercling and then grab the Stugang 'Extension' gaston hold with your LH (as a sidepull). Perform the biggest drive-by in the world and gain the 'Circus Street' traverse line. Finish as for 'Stugang Extension' ie. take a rope! Probably 30.

Start: As for 'Scartrek'.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

29 Sport 17m
45 Diplomacy-UPV Linkup

A variation on UPV. Instead of starting as for Scartrek, start as for Diplomacy. At the 'blob', gain big undercling and punch out to the sloper. Reach into the Stugang Ext gaston hold as a sidepull, then dyno for the Circus Str jug. Finish as for 'Stugang Extension'.

FA: 2000

29 Sport 17m
46 Diplomacy-UPV Bloc

Diplomacy to the big undercling, then out right to the sloper, then right a move and finish on the Circus Street heel hook horizontal.

V7 Boulder
47 UPV Direct boulder

Start as for Scartrek into Diplomacy but head right into big undercling then out to sloper and Circus Street horizontal.

V8 Boulder
48 Ultra Pleasure Vibe 2000 Direct

Start as for Scartrek or Diplomacy (29 or 28) and climb direct to the Circus Street horizontal via undercling, then up to the birds nest of Dr Strike, and finish as for that route.

FA: tom boehm

28 Sport
49 Snaking Cowboy

The original line. Scartrek into Circus Street finish.

28 Sport
50 Diplomacy Start aka. The Pocket Problem

Slightly lower start than the 'Diplomacy' route - starting on the twin 'eye' pockets - then climbing into 'Diplomacy' - finishing at the big jug under the roof. It's probably wise to jump off here!

V5 Boulder 7m
51 Diplomacy

Standing start in the depths of the Hole under the line of pockets. Very steep pocket pulling up to the resting jug under the roof - then out left to finish at the Stugang shotholes (break).

FA: Andy Beckworth, 1997

V7 Boulder
52 Diplomatic Immunity

Links 'Diplomacy" into 'International Passport"

FA: Sharik Walker, 1998

27 Sport 12m
53 Dr Strike and the Hole Hog Hurricane vs the Funky Bullster

A power-endurance fest starting just right of 'Circus Street' and heading up via the 'shotgun' blast of finger pockets. Traverse left along jugs to the 'hole' - then up past shothole to match the final jug in the roof (after the last bolt).

25 Sport 10m
54 Circus Doctor 26 Sport
55 Circus Street

A well-named route starting up and right of 'Diplomacy' (on the higher platform) and traversing the lower lip of the Hole roof via a series of heel hooks and 180 degree twists. Finish at the shothole just after the dyno (crux). Hard for the grade.

FA: adam gower, 1995

25 Sport 10m
56 Dr Strike into the Wormhole Search / Dr Strike extension

aka. 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'. 'Dr Strike' to the chain, then link into Nirvaoxyne finish.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2000

30 Sport 12m
57 Dr Strike's Circus / Fingering Your Date for Blood

Originally called 'Fingering Your Date For Blood'. Link up of 'Dr Strike' into 'Circus Street'. A 19-move power-enduro problem at the grade.

Start: As for 'Dr Strike'. Climb to hole, then keep traversing left via a dropdown move onto the 'Circus Street' jug and onwards.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

25/26 Sport 10m
58 Strike Circus Extension

Strike Circus to the chains at the cave entrance.

29 Sport 15m
59 Mr X

Stugang Ext to the Circus Street jug, then reverse Strike-Circus into Gorgeous Guys and finish as for that route.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2010

30 Sport
60 Gorgeous Guys and Lipstick Lesbians

Takes the furthest righthand line up via good pockets to the roof - then strenuous moves left to the chain.

FA: Luke Geelen, 2000

26 Sport 10m
61 Diplomacy Half (delete) Unknown

1.4. The Right Wing 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.922470, 138.712523

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Asinine 16 Trad 35m
2 Continental Drift 19 Trad 40m
3 Tectonic plates 21 Trad 25m
4 Karstaways 21 Trad 40m
5 Bloggs Direct 17 Trad 31m
6 Subduction Zone 19 Trad 33m

1.5. The Bachelor Pad 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.923248, 138.705346

description

Intro

The biggest bouldering area in Adelaide.

NOTE:
The same regulations apply here as to the main area of Norton Summit (i.e. no climbing after sunset or on fire-ban days). Try to keep noise pollution to a minimum, stick to the walking trails and take your rubbish with you.

approach

General Location

The Pad is located on The Old Norton Summit Road, about 1km down hill from The Summit (the climbing area not the actual summit!). To get there drive east out of the city and head up Magill Road. Continue straight onto Old Norton Summit Road for 2.5km. About 100m after passing house number 225 (lot number 59), there is a tiny pullout for parking on the left side of the road.

There is only space for a few cars to park, so be courteous of others. There are extra parking spaces further up the hill near the next house's driveway. The track up to The Pad is located on the other side of the road (south), opposite the Stobey pole about 50m downhill of the parking pullout. Cross the guardrail and you will see the track heading across the creek and up the hill. It take about 10 minutes of uphill slog to reach the cliff.

The location marked on the map has the point of the triangle at the beginning of the trail on the Old Norton Summit Road. The base of the triangle is at the cave itself.

ethic

Noise levels

This is private property so please be considerate by keeping noise, music and swearing to a minimum.

Imports/exports (rubbish/mats/tape)

Normal rules apply, take everything with you, this includes finger tape and cigarette butts.

Track maintenance

Track maintenance is the responsibility of any climber that chooses to frequent the Pad.

history

First discovered in 1995 by Stuart Williams and Simon Wilson whilst looking for routes they quickly sunk some bolts in what would become Bachelor Blend 23 and named the cave the Bachelor Pad. Word eventually filtered out and the Pad's bouldering potential started to be tapped in 1996 by an eager young crew. Many of the easier lines were climbed during this time but it took the visit from international rock stars Klem Loskot and Toni Lamprecht in 1999 to really put this place on the map. On a flying trip to Adelaide to recuperate from developing the bouldering in the Grampians over two days at the Pad they opened Madball sit V13, Hot Chocolate V10, Madball stand V9, Twist and Shout V9 and Benelli's Extension V8/9. Over the next few years local Sharik Walker filled in the blanks with ascents of the classic Butchers V10, Tao V11, Cocktoe V9, Kid Indestructible V9, Toe to Toe V7 and Non Intentional Lifeform V10.

On first acquaintance with this place you could be forgiven for thinking that the 50+ problems listed in this guide must be an error. Shorter than the length of Sissy Crag (NSW), not as high as Lindfield, The Fear Factory or Akuna Bay (NSW), and less inspiring than Trackside or Anderson’s (Vic) – it is nevertheless home to the hardest problems in South Australia.

Not only that, but it is also less than 20 minutes drive from the city, 3 minutes drive from a pub, and stays dry in the rain. What more could you want? Difficulty ranges from V0-V13, with just under half of the problems sub-V6, and all the rest being mainly in the V6-V10 bracket.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The One Legged Cougar

Far left hand side of cliff. Stand-start off chalked horizontal, then up left then back right following the line of least resistance to the positive holds under the roof.

V0 Boulder 3m
2 Bachelor Blend

Start up "Fat Neck" to the first bolt, continue out through the roof.

FA: Simon Wilson & Stuart Williams, 1995

23 Sport 14m, 3
3 Fat Neck

Sit-start on big, flat, horizontal chalked jug. Place feet so they are off the ledge you are sitting on, then head up via a gaston pinch, a V-slot and some crimps to a jug directly above.

V1 Boulder 3m
4 The Fish

Same start as Fat Neck. Head slightly left and up into underclings, then follow jugs (and the bolts), jumping off when you get scared. The high chalked jug is the generally accepted finishing hold.

V3 Boulder 4m
5 Fat Neck to the Bone

Same start as Fat Neck. Head R and up into underclings and side-pulls. Then continue R past the bolt via crux moves using a crimp rail to reach the finish jug of The Bone.

V4 Boulder 3m
6 Free Mahi Mahi Direct / the orginal line

Start up Fat neck then traverse righ to the sloper then right to the small undercling in the roof and up via the big LH sidepull and crimps.

FA:

V6 Boulder 3m
7 Catch Mahi

Same start as Fat Neck, but directly right into large undercling, then to LH sloper and better RH sloper holds. Up and left through more underclings/sidepulls to good, round jug hold up under big roof.

V3 Boulder 3m
8 Red Snapper

Foot eliminate. Start as for Catch Mahi, then rightwards across underclings and KMWISF start holds, into The Bone and finishing for this problem. Keep feet above the slightly off-horizontal seam at the base.

V5 Boulder 3m
9 Kiss Me Where It Smells Funny

Dyno eliminate. Standing start using small LH nubbin crimp on hanging slab, and RH on adjacent sloper with thumb press. Jump for jug under roof!

V7 Boulder 3m
10 The Bone

Sit start bellow and 1m R of the U-shaped jug, finish in the big jug under roof.

V2 Boulder 3m
11 Faith

Crouching start under KMWISF going LH into undercling, RH into gaston press with thumb catch, then ‘faith move’ to LH nubbin crimp of KMWISF (employ a good spotter). R to big scoop jug, then dyno for big jug under roof.

V3 Boulder 3m
12 The Bone, Double Dyno

Match both hands in the U-shaped jug of The Bone, then launch (double-handed) diagonally leftwards for the finish of Mahi Mahi.

V2 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Royale

Start on the big sidepull, up diagonally left through serrated edges to the horizontal break, continue up past the letterbox fininshing out right on the hanging block. Pad it up well!

V2 Boulder 4m
14 Derf

Sit-start on chalked block. Up and slightly left to jugs at the break.

V0 Boulder 3m
15 Warmup / Warm Up the Horn

various warm up lines and traverses throughout the pad

V0- Boulder 3m
16 Warm Up Double Dyno

double-hand dyno from the obvious jugs to the big rounded hold in the break.

V2 Boulder 3m
17 Buttworth

Sit-start on jug rail. Up to roof on jugs.

V0 Boulder 3m
18 Jacques the Potato

Sit-start with underclings as for Hot Chocolate. Paste your feet on and crank to the pointy jug with your left, match and then more easily up to jugs on traverse line.

V4 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 The Grind

Warning Fixed Gear: seized gear

The line of side-pulls/laybacks through the middle roof. Originally given 28 by the FA (who didn't use kneepads but did utilise 2 kneebars and two shots, stating 'he got lucky'). Reason for the upgrade was due to it going unrepeated for 12 years despite strong efforts from people that had climbed somewhat harder things elsewhere. Then knee rubber was invented...

FA: Steve Pollard, 2003

28 Sport 14m, 4
20 Aftertaste

Pull on at massive bucket halfway along traverse line (start of Chinese Nuggets). Motor right past a pinch, a pocket and some cruxier holds to reach the sharp jug at the right-hand end, then up to big sloper to finish. Can finish higher for some spicy fun and V4.

FA: 1996

V2 Boulder 2m
21 Chocolate Aftertaste (high traverse)

Traverse high break from large chalked horizontal jug to a point where you can drop down via a good pocket/jug to the starting hold of Chinese Nuggets (monster bucket midway across). Continue though to jug at the end of the traverse line, then up to match on big sloper.

FA: Andy Beckworth

V4 Boulder 2m
22 Chinese Nuggets

Standing start. From huge jug in middle of traverse line go up and left to jug pocket, then up.

V1 Boulder 3m
23 Chinese Nuggets RHV

Start as for CN but trend right after first two moves and end on high jug.

V1 Boulder
24 Chinese Nuggets (Campus)

"Chinese Nuggets" without feet.

V4 Boulder 3m
25 Chocolate Aftertaste Low

Start as for Chocolate Aftertaste High but drop down to low level traverse from jugs using LH pocket/sidepull. Motor rightwards via a good open pocket and a ‘fin’ pinch, then into the original line at the 'drop down' pocket. Finish as for Chocolate Aftertaste High.

FA: Luke Geelen

V6 Boulder 2m
26 Full Chocolate Aftertaste

Hot Chocolate into Chocolate Aftertaste, finishing on a higher jug via an exciting sidepull move.

V10 Boulder
27 Hot Chocolate

An old local project nabbed by Klem! Sit start with left hand on the Jaques underclings. Make a move (crux) into the left sidepull above then right hand into good undercling, then into and finish as for Chocolate. AKA the sit start to Chocolate (known as the Pinch). Given 7c/V9 by Klem but upgraded by 2nd and 3rd ascentionists.

FA: Klem Loskot

FA: 1999

V10 Boulder 3m
28 Hot Chocolate RHV

Was thought to be Non Intentional Lifeform by the FA and subsequent ascentionists. Starts immediately right of Hot Chocolate with left on the right hand hold and the right hand on a small undercling. Up into the undercling and sidepull of Hot Chocolate then as per that problem. Essentially an easier independant start.

FA: Jordan Grant

V9 Boulder 3m
29 Milk Chocolate

(Weaker than Hot Chocolate). A higher sitstart than Hot Chocolate. A decent sequence in its own right. Sit start with LH on Hot Chocolate sidepull and RH on its good undercling ie two moves into Hot Chocolate. Paste your feet on and punch out to the good LH sidepull pocket and top out right as for Chocolate (aka the Pinch). The wads will probably think this is a V5. FA Klem Loskot (from the true sit).

V6 Boulder 3m
30 Non-Intentional Life Form

Sit-start with right hand on small scallopy undercling (SGF low start hold) and an edgy pinch with the other. Punch up with your left to a hold on the lip then as per SGF from the undercling and then to the top. A very hard one mover. Crouch start goes about V5/6 and is worthy of your time.

FA: Sharik Walker

V10 Boulder 3m
31 Living or Exisiting

Alternative name for SGF. Not an independent problem. Description was as for NILF.

FA: Luke Geelen

V8 Boulder 3m
32 Secret Gay Fantasy

Starts under main roof on reasonable undercling (RH) and poorer undercling (LH). A very powerful 5-move problem. Pop LH to intermediate ‘breadloaf’ pinch, then big move out to the pocket on the lip (LH again) – catch the breadloaf as an intermediate (RH) – then up to jug in the Aftertaste traverse line and finish as for CHinese Nuggets. V8 as a crouchstart but take 9 points if you start seated on the lower holds.

FA: Luke Geelen

V8 Boulder 3m
33 Meantime

Start on underclings right of SGF. Slap left to lip and decent sidepull then through with right hand to the jug start of the Aftertaste traverse. Straight up via sidepull to the top tier. A nice little independent addition to the mid grade circuit.

V5 Boulder
34 Potato Aftertaste Low

Jacques the Potato into Chocolate Aftertaste Low.

V7 Boulder 2m
35 Chocolate / the Pinch

One of the original problems from 96. Start with LH on the SGF lip hold and a polished gaston jug right of it. Bust a move (LH) to the tufa pinch on Aftertaste Low traverse then hit the jug line of the upper traverse.

FA: Andy Beckworth

FA: 1996

V4 Boulder 3m
36 The Ballroom Slap

Stand start holding the pinch of Aftertaste Low Traverse and the finish jug of SGF. Dyno RH to a sloping jug in the top break.

FA: Steve Kelly

V3 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
37 One Five Nine / One Five

If you climb this with your feet on you get a great V1. Otherwise campus from the large bucket (LH) on the Aftertaste Traverse and slightly higher smaller jug (RH) to the high flat jug, then without matching go again RH to the top! 1-5-9 standard campus measurement.

Hold large bucket LH and smaller slightly higher jug RH. Make a footless campus move to the high flat jug.

V1 Boulder 3m
38 Shout / Twist and Shout - Stand start

The stand start variant to Twist and Shout, starts on large underclings followed by 3 big moves, finishing on a sloper. Please be mindful of the holds you are standing on as they are the handholds for the sit start!

V4 Boulder 2m
39 Project

Start for twist and shout, traverse under the roof to SGF and finish for that. Very technical and hard - approx V9 + V8/9 + V8 without relief (whatever that scores only the FA will know)

Boulder
40 Sharik's Problem

Start as for Twist and Shout but head left though the obvious chalked sloper edge and undercling to the start hold of Aftertaste then up and finish on the high jug.

FA: Sharik Walker

V9 Boulder
41 Twist & Shout

Sitstart – then out across the bad crimpers/slopers on the lip. RH crescent sidepull, then left into undercling right into undercling paste right foot on and go to the triangle pinch out left (in traverse line) – then straight up to the sloper (via intermediate pinch) – and match.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

V9 Boulder 2m
42 Benelli's Extension

Start as for 'Twist & Shout' but keep traversing right across slopers then up into the good undercling. Work your feet out, then head up and out (through blade jug) to the finish sloper of Twist and Shout.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

V8 Boulder 2m
43 Benelli's Extension stand start

Start on sloper and RH sloper/crimp at the end of the Benelli’s traverse (just under the underclings). Left foot on lip, then up into the good underclings. Out to the sharp jug, then cross into the good finish hold of Chocolate and finish matched on the big sloper. For V5 start with feet on ledge. Please be mindful of your feet as you will be standing on the handholds of the sitstart and the holds are starting to get polished.

V4 Boulder 2m
44 Kid Indestructible

Climb Benelli's Extension but finish up the big underclings on the far right instead of the sloper. Originally given V10 but with new beta has settled at 9.

FA: Sharik Walker

V9 Boulder 2m
45 The Sharik Dyno

Starts on the finish hold of Chocolate Aftertaste traverse (jug) – then huge dyno to obvious break. How many mats have you got?

FA: Sharik Walker

V4 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
46 Indestructible / Kid Indestructible - Stand Start

The V6 stand start variant to Kid Indestructible. Start as for Benelli's stand start.

V6 Boulder 2m
47 Madball

The Pad classic. Starts LH undercling and RH pocket (Crux) – then dyno to polished sloper – then out to jug and up. Numerous sequences all hard. Was given 7b+ by Toni but consensus is V9.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

V9 Boulder 3m
48 Madball Sit-start

Sit start to Madball - FA Klem Loskot 1999. Originally graded 8a+/V12 but later upgraded to 8b/v13 by Klem. Lots of sequences now exist.

V13 Boulder 3m
49 Lucha Libre

Stand start from the end of Madball and follow the bolts to the chains. Good movement all the way. One of the hardest outdoor (as opposed to the Hole) routes in the State.

FA: Matt Warner, 19 Jun 2021

31 Sport
50 Inflatable Bulge

Madball Stand to completion then traversing right through prominent bulge and into finish on Tao/Butchers finish jug. Originally graded 11.

FA: Trevor Pearce

V10 Boulder
51 The Sharik Project

The last remaining project at the Pad and the hardest. Will be Adelaide's hardest boulder problem when sent. Starts slightly right of Madball. Stand start with hands in good underclings in back of overhang. Move out through some of the worst slopers and a pinch known to man to eventually gain the good pocket on the lip then up and finish on good holds.

Set: Sharik Walker

BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
52 Cocktoe

Start left of Stalker with LH on good hold in roof and RH on low pinch. Out diagonally right via pinches and a heel, then through the ‘breadloaf’ pinch , finishing directly on the Stalker final finish hold. Was easier/better before the right hand pinch broke.

FA: Sharik Walker

V9 Boulder 3m
53 Stalker

Starts back of cave with feet on rock platform. Through ‘bunny ears’ undercling, out to large sloper hold, then out to obvious ‘shark fin’ hold on lip and up. Finish on large sloper/jug out and left past niche.

V6 Boulder 3m
54 Restraining Order (aka Stalker Extension)

4-move extension to Stalker - finishing on Tao.

FA: Trev

V6 Boulder 4m
55 Tao

Start as for Cocktoe, then break left out near the lip via a crimp and some compression. Originally graded V12. Slightly easier than Butchers according to the FA.

FA: Sharik Walker

V10 Boulder 4m
56 Butchers

Linkup of Stalker into Tao, crossing into Cocktoe through the Stalker side- pull and pinch hold. ‘Slightly harder than Tao’ according to the first ascentionist. FA: Sharik Walker. Dropped some grades from V12 due to new beta. Named for the butchering of Shariks beta on other Pad climbs.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2002

V10 Boulder 4m
57 Restraining Order Special Edition

the extension to Toe to Toe finishing as for Tao/Butchers.

FA: Trev; seth

V6 Boulder
58 Cockless

Cocktoe into Stalker then back into Cocktoe via the LH pocket (missing the breadloaf pinch). Strangely never recordered on this site.

V6 Boulder
59 Toe to Toe

Climb Stalker to left hand jug, match, then out to breadloaf pinch then finish as for Cocktoe.

FA: Sharik Walker

V7 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
60 Snowball

Starts at far right-hand end of cliff line on left side of scoop/shallow cave (questionable rock) finish up slopers on right.

V3 Boulder 4m
61 The Butternuts

This and the following 5 climbs are included for historical purposes only! On the scrappy cliff 50m down R of the bouldering crag. This climb goes straight up the wall about 3m R of the alcove at the L end.

FA: Mark Witham & Paul Badenoch

13 Trad 11m
62 Road to Ruin

The rising diagonal trench beginning near The Butternuts. Some holds can't be trusted.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 2014

16 Trad 12m
63 Victoria's Secret

Start 1.5m R of The Butternuts. Up into the short V-groove in the middle of the wall then move R and head for the tombstone up top.

FA: Paul Badenoch & Vicki Kavanagh

14 Trad 11m
64 No Push No Baby

Start 1.5m R of Victoria's Secret and head up the orange rock. Aim for the hanging slab at the top, passing the slender 'jug of death' at 5m. Take a #0.4 cam. The best climb here!

FA: Paul Badenoch, Vicki Kavanagh & Mark Witham

17 Trad 11m
65 Near Death Experience

Start 1m L of the vague nose and 1m R of NPNB. Up to the diagonal crack, move R for a large cam then up the brittle wall to a stance. Finish up the small corner on the R. Take a #0.75 cam.

FA: Paul Badenoch & Clare Randall

16 Trad 11m
66 My Degeneration

An exciting start just R of the vague nose to a small ledge. Continue up (#000 cam) and slightly L to finish as for NDE.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Vicki Kavanagh & Mark Witham

15 Trad 9m
67 Cock-Bulge / Cocktoe Extension Extension

Cocktoe extension to end jug of Tao, then reverse climb into Inflatable Bulge and finish on top of bulge via some chimney moves.

FA: Thananthorn Suriyasenee, 23 Apr 2022

FR:7b Unknown
68 The other Sharik project

Project- linking Kid Indestructible sit to it's underlings then under the roof into Madball Stand. All the moves go, just needs someone strong enough to link them!

Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
13 Boulder Problem Trad 1.2. The Cave
Graunch Trad 1.2. The Cave
The Butternuts Trad 11m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
V0- Warmup Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
14 Somebody Put Something in My Drink Trad 12m 1.2. The Cave
Victoria's Secret Trad 11m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
15 Bulges and Bellyflops Trad 30m 1.1. The Far Left Wing
Nicks and Nooks Trad 25m 1.1. The Far Left Wing
AUMC Route Trad 1.2. The Cave
AUMC Route DF Trad 1.2. The Cave
My Degeneration Trad 9m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
V0 Standard Cave Traverse (High) Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
Buttworth Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Derf Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
The One Legged Cougar Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
16 Asinine Trad 35m 1.4. The Right Wing
Near Death Experience Trad 11m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Road to Ruin Trad 12m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
17 Bloggs Direct Trad 31m 1.4. The Right Wing
No Push No Baby Trad 11m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
19 Gropes and Gasps Trad 25m 1.1. The Far Left Wing
The Hindley Hustle Trad 20m 1.2. The Cave
Continental Drift Trad 40m 1.4. The Right Wing
Subduction Zone Trad 33m 1.4. The Right Wing
V1 Chinese Nuggets Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Chinese Nuggets RHV Boulder 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Fat Neck Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
One Five Nine Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
20 Slaps and Shrieks Trad 25m 1.1. The Far Left Wing
Easy Peasy Sport 10m 1.2. The Cave
Red Dwarf Trad 9m 1.2. The Cave
20/21 Black Dwarf Trad 1.2. The Cave
V2 Standard Cave Traverse (Low) Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
Aftertaste Boulder 2m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Royale Boulder 4m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
The Bone Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
The Bone, Double Dyno Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Warm Up Double Dyno Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
21 Grurper LHV Trad 13m 1.2. The Cave
Grurper pitch 1 Mixed trad 17m, 2 1.2. The Cave
Peregrine Sport 9m, 3 1.2. The Cave
The Natives are Restless P1 Sport 10m, 3 1.2. The Cave
Uptown Eugene Trad 20m 1.2. The Cave
Karstaways Trad 40m 1.4. The Right Wing
Tectonic plates Trad 25m 1.4. The Right Wing
22 Grurper DS Sport 10m, 3 1.2. The Cave
Trout Fishing in America Trad 1.2. The Cave
V3 Crystal Undercling Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
Peregrine Circuit Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
Peregrine LH Footless Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
The Iron Cross Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
Match Maker Boulder 2m 1.3. The Hole
Catch Mahi Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Faith Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Snowball Boulder 4m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
The Ballroom Slap Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
The Fish Boulder 4m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
23 Anzac Highway Amble Sport 25m, 7 1.2. The Cave
Brotherhood of the Black Chicken Sport 7m 1.2. The Cave
Eddie-Peregrine Sport 1.2. The Cave
Endive Trad 1.2. The Cave
Evolution of a Wine Glass Sport 1.2. The Cave
Grurper Amble Sport 25m, 7 1.2. The Cave
Little Rundle Street Sport 20m, 5 1.2. The Cave
Peregrine Pitch Two Trad 14m 1.2. The Cave
Peregrine RHV Sport 9m, 3 1.2. The Cave
Peri Peri Chicken Sport 9m, 4 1.2. The Cave
Uptown Eugene RHV Trad 20m 1.2. The Cave
Bachelor Blend Sport 14m, 3 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
V4 Pinch Two Eliminate Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
The Big Dyno Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
The Thing Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
Pinch Punch Boulder 3m 1.3. The Hole
Swing Thing LH Boulder 2m 1.3. The Hole
Swing Thing RH Boulder 2m 1.3. The Hole
Benelli's Extension stand start Boulder 2m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Chinese Nuggets (Campus) Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Chocolate Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Chocolate Aftertaste (high traverse) Boulder 2m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Fat Neck to the Bone Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Jacques the Potato Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Shout Boulder 2m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
The Sharik Dyno Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
24 Anzac Space Sport 15m, 8 1.2. The Cave
City To Bay Sport 8 1.2. The Cave
Coming at ya Pussy Sport 15m, 4 1.2. The Cave
Don't Rain on The Parade Sport 25m, 4 1.2. The Cave
Gawler Bypass Trad 1.2. The Cave
Hyperspace Bypass Trad 20m 1.2. The Cave
Pedestrian Rule Trad 1.2. The Cave
Pivoting Head Mixed trad 17m, 7 1.2. The Cave
Pussy Extension Sport 1.2. The Cave
Space to Amble Sport 6 1.2. The Cave
Space to Rent Sport 6 1.2. The Cave
TB or not TB Sport 1.2. The Cave
The Mall's Falls Top rope 20m 1.2. The Cave
Trundle RHF Sport 7 1.2. The Cave
25 Crossing the Stroll Sport 20m 1.2. The Cave
Crossroads Sport 20m 1.2. The Cave
Dudley in the Gym Sport 15m 1.2. The Cave
Eddie Extension Sport 1.2. The Cave
Eddie Misses the Point Sport 15m, 4 1.2. The Cave
North Terrace Stroll Sport 20m 1.2. The Cave
Run Every Red Light Sport 25m, 7 1.2. The Cave
The Mini Adventure Sport 22m, 9 1.2. The Cave
Trundle Down Rundle Sport 20m, 4 1.2. The Cave
Circus Street Sport 10m 1.3. The Hole
Dr Strike and the Hole Hog Hurricane vs the Funky Bullster Sport 10m 1.3. The Hole
7b Cock-Bulge Unknown 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
V5 Luke's Undercling Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
The Weakest Link Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
Boing is the Word Boulder 3m 1.3. The Hole
Catch & Match Unknown 2m 1.3. The Hole
Clutch Boulder 2m 1.3. The Hole
Diplomacy Start aka. The Pocket Problem Boulder 7m 1.3. The Hole
Osaki Dolphin Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Meantime Boulder 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Red Snapper Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
25/26 Dr Strike's Circus Sport 10m 1.3. The Hole
26 Crossroads Direct LHV Sport 7 1.2. The Cave
Don't Panic Mixed trad 30m, 3 1.2. The Cave
Eddie and Dudley’s Excellent Adventure Sport 10 1.2. The Cave
Evolution of a Beer Glass Sport 23m, 7 1.2. The Cave
Hutt Street Homies Sport 7 1.2. The Cave
Itchy Fingered FNG Sport 10m 1.2. The Cave
Kill like a Madam Sport 23m 1.2. The Cave
Pain on Payneham Sport 23m 1.2. The Cave
Slanted and Enchanted Sport 25m 1.2. The Cave
Tim in the Gym Sport 15m 1.2. The Cave
Why So Serious? Sport 16m, 5 1.2. The Cave
Circus Doctor Sport 1.3. The Hole
Gorgeous Guys and Lipstick Lesbians Sport 10m 1.3. The Hole
V6 Ronnie's Summit Dyno Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
Clutch-Boing Link Boulder 4m 1.3. The Hole
Come Out Fighting Start Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Chocolate Aftertaste Low Boulder 2m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Cockless Boulder 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Free Mahi Mahi Direct Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Indestructible Boulder 2m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Milk Chocolate Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Restraining Order (aka Stalker Extension) Boulder 4m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Restraining Order Special Edition Boulder 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Stalker Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
27 Crossroads Direct Finish Sport 20m 1.2. The Cave
Evolution of an Hourglass Sport 23m 1.2. The Cave
KPDM Sport 20m 1.2. The Cave
Lost Property Sport 1.2. The Cave
Strolling Sport 1.2. The Cave
Diplomatic Immunity Sport 12m 1.3. The Hole
V7 Diplomacy Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Diplomacy-UPV Bloc Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Scartrek the Next Laceration Boulder 7m 1.3. The Hole
Stugang Right Hand Boulder 6m 1.3. The Hole
Stugang Willich Boulder 6m 1.3. The Hole
Victims of Crime Unknown 1.3. The Hole
Kiss Me Where It Smells Funny Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Potato Aftertaste Low Boulder 2m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Toe to Toe Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
28 IP Extension Unknown 25m 1.2. The Cave
Intellectual Property Sport 20m 1.2. The Cave
Pushin' Into Payneham Sport 25m 1.2. The Cave
International Passport to Smoking Pleasure Sport 10m 1.3. The Hole
Snack Related Mishap Sport 10m 1.3. The Hole
Snaking Cowboy Sport 1.3. The Hole
Stugang Willich Extension Sport 12m 1.3. The Hole
Ultra Pleasure Vibe 2000 Direct Sport 1.3. The Hole
The Grind Sport 14m, 4 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
29 Ticket to Ride Sport 20m 1.2. The Cave
Diplomacy-UPV Linkup Sport 17m 1.3. The Hole
Filipino Furburger Sport 9m 1.3. The Hole
Strike Circus Extension Sport 15m 1.3. The Hole
Ultra Pleasure Vibe 2000 Sport 17m 1.3. The Hole
V8 Diplomacy into Scartrek Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Filipino Path Boulder 6m 1.3. The Hole
Fred's Wormhole Problem Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Scarf**kers Inc. Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Scartrek Diplomacy Linkup Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Stugang Ext Bloc Boulder 1.3. The Hole
UPV Direct boulder Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Ultra Pleasure Vibe Bloc Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Benelli's Extension Boulder 2m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Living or Exisiting Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Secret Gay Fantasy Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
30 Burger Fight Sport 1.3. The Hole
Come Out Fighting Sport 8m 1.3. The Hole
Dr Strike into the Wormhole Search Sport 12m 1.3. The Hole
Mr X Sport 1.3. The Hole
V9 Sharik's Problem Boulder 1.2.1. Cave Bouldering
Scarfuckers into Stugang Boulder 1.3. The Hole
Cocktoe Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Hot Chocolate RHV Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Kid Indestructible Boulder 2m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Madball Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Sharik's Problem Boulder 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Twist & Shout Boulder 2m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
30/31 Stugang Extension Extension Sport 16m 1.3. The Hole
31 Filippino Out Sport 15m 1.3. The Hole
Mr Choss Sport 12m 1.3. The Hole
Shining Burger Out Sport 1.3. The Hole
Stay in Hiding Sport 1.3. The Hole
Stugang and the 7 Draws Sport 16m 1.3. The Hole
Lucha Libre Sport 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
31/32 Moustaki Sport 1.3. The Hole
Nirvanoxyne Sport 1.3. The Hole
V10 Feral Muffins Boulder 7m 1.3. The Hole
French Maid Boulder 1.3. The Hole
The Shining Path Boulder 7m 1.3. The Hole
Butchers Boulder 4m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Full Chocolate Aftertaste Boulder 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Hot Chocolate Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Inflatable Bulge Boulder 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Non-Intentional Life Form Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Tao Boulder 4m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
32 The Wormhole Search Sport 1.3. The Hole
33 CO2 Sport 1.3. The Hole
V11 Slime Boulder 1.3. The Hole
The Shining Burger Boulder 9m 1.3. The Hole
V13 Madball Sit-start Boulder 3m 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
? Chad's project SportProject 1.2. The Cave
Diplomacy Half (delete) Unknown 1.3. The Hole
Project Boulder 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
The Sharik Project BoulderProject 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
The other Sharik project Unknown 1.5. The Bachelor Pad
Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文