Routes in Hylands Lookout

Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. Start 3m R of Dixie Normous, Steep and powerful start leads to bouldery climbing leading righwards to arete. Power endurance test piece.

Start: In undercut steep blank roof with super bouldery moves to get the obvious pocket. Power through roof with balance to chains.

The diagonal line in the middle of leaning wall. Start from the ledge gained via the rope. Punchy, technical and sustained climbing to gain the pebbly band, long draw required there, and a little sting at the end.

Same start as Lap Dance then head left at second draw. Bring some power and a good belayer for this one. Route name changed at request of first ascentionist

Just a slap right of Lap Dance, punchy start leads to a bouldery rightward traverse before heading up to the anchors for glory.

Up the centre of the wall L of Ivy Bouncers joining this just before the crux.

Start 3m left of the obvious crack. Climb to the ledge, then the technical slab and then steeper ground to join the crack to anchors of Crack, Back n Sack.

Thin and balancy climbing just left of arête. Start on the crack and move right to a big move after the 3rd bolt then awesome climbing to the top.

Start two meters left of Coffee Powered Shit Box. Exceptionally fine climbing up a sparse black wall. Any discomfort you feel on the holds is a result of having too much wanking activity turning your fingers soft. All vicious thin holds have been treated to take the bite out of them so enjoy the excursion. A great set of jugs in the middle takes the heat off this number. Up the short vertical rut section and push out to the left to gain jugs in the lower middle of the wall. Up to offset flake and then move left to follow bolts to the top.

The last route in the area, easily up the striking black arête to around half way where balance and movement is required to get your way to the DBB up high.

Classic of the genre! The most popular route in the cave, and very powerful! 4th line of rings from the left hand arete. 'Steep' start to large square pebble then straight up.

Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. Punchy right facing flake in the center of the pocketed wall. Stick clip first bolt, steep start through roof then follow the line of bolts left and up.

Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. The rightward trending flake feature. Start as for 'Long Dong Silver'. After tackling the initial roof head right along the flake and on to jugs and anchors.

Start: 2 mtrs right of "August Night" and punch up thru the bulge

Punchy climbing all the way

Start: Same as Blind mice but trends slightly right to hard mantle, anchors set back over the top

Like lifting mini bar fridges

About 8m right of the pinnacle on the black face. Thin and crimpy finger-shredding fun! Start up on obvious juggy feature, and straight up on evil crimps, finishing below the big cave and sandy ledge. First route established on this wall.

Technical wall climbing to get through to the ledge without busting your rectum out of its hiding place. Follow the tonnes of bolts through the orange band which makes the climb worth doing i must add. At the confusing conglomerate section wiggle a little right then back thru to the line on thin crimps. You have it in the bag now so punch thru to the top without bothering to clip any extra bolts. Huge jugs to finish. End at the two lower offs or if you have real guts push it thru the extra choss rock to exit over the top. You will need more draws for this though.

Has a fantastic gritstone like section just off the ledge near the bottom. The climb sports more bolts than probably necessary, but you wont hit the ledge anymore if you clip them all. Lower off rings available before the choss top or go thru to the rings over the top edge.

Start: The first line of bolts right of the corner on the large vertical wall.

Unless the photo Topo gets corrected ignore it. Great climbing across the orange part of the wall on classic goutes deau and other large pockets. When you get to the crux shout BENGA BENGA and keep going. The black stuff looks crappy but is still good climbing. If your feet fall off trade in your boots for better rubber.

Start: Off the top of the large block. Same start as 'Testeagles'.

Tricky start left of AC. Up the thin wall, with plenty of RBs to show the way. Shared anchors with AC.

Links Wait 'Til Winter into top half of Stuck on You.

The direct line to Freeloader Variant. Start as for Wait Till Winter to2nd bolt then Take left line of bolts up thin black gluey wall, then easier long finish.

Start just right of CR. Punchy start to a few balancey moves back right, then head straight up the black looking blankness. Difficulty backs of the higher you get.

Just after steep white pocketed wall on undercut orange arete. Bouldery start best to extend 4th draw

Your arms will feel like they got thumped by five bouncers in a basement. Start up ramp as for 'The Establishment', then take left line of rings up middle of immaculate orange face, joining back into 'The Establishment' at the fifth bolt with a wild lunge right to the arête.

Crux off the ground to hard move high

Eat your spinach for this one, short and steep on great rock.

Start: 3 mtrs right of two peas. Shares same start as Four and Twenty. Up two bolts then goes left to anchors over the lip

Steep and pumpy start and crimpy techo finish

Start: At the leaning arete

Technical start leads to an easing mid section, milk the rest as the top gets very steep

Start: Start off the block and climb the blunt flake to begin.

Fine climb with deceptive crux

Start about 3m right of Black Mamba. Thin face climbing to flake feature,then easier to top.

A direct to 'September' which adds even thinner climbing to the already fine start.

Start: As for 'September'

Up HR until 3rd bolt, then directly up into orange rock. Finish on the last few bolts on KoP. Great Direct line.

Vale Michael Jackson. Steep right trending line crossing a black streak and finishing up the featured orange stuff. Funky with a dramatic and unlikely finish.

A nice looking orange wall. Takes the line up the disjointed flake system. The easier climbing being in the top section. Plenty of bolts to keep even the biggest girlies happy.

Very technical slab climbing up black blank wall. Straight up on finger scoops. Don't try this one on a hot day it is quite engaging for a number of thin sequences.

Start: At black slab three meters left of the arete.

Face between Enlaecmnt arete and Karate Chops roof crack. Climb small banksia to cavelet on lip of cave. Wave up the techy nice face above. Top-rope only at the moment.

A nice boulder problem with a couple of bolts. Start at the groove, crank over bulge and up to the jug with the little tree growing behind it (try to grab this hold on the right-hand side to avoid breaking the tree's house!).

A boulder problem with three bolts. Clip the first bolt then sit start in under at the groove, crank over bulge and up to the jug (with the tree growing in it - if it's still there!)

Harder start than salute but easier finish

Start: 2 mtrs right of Salut

Pumpy then just pumpy

Start: Same as Peas in pod but climbs left hand side of overhanging arete, some weak scallywags have found an option of McDougling out left and making the climb a little easier. Your choice!

The obvious crack splitting this wall. Mixed route with trad gear needed down low, bolts up higher to anchors.

Sharpen up your finger nails for this one, great moves on super rock

Start: 3 mtrs left of crack, as for Broken Bishop then take the right line of bolts. Leave your office hands at home for this one!

Great climb fun all the way

Straight up above the stump via 10 bolts with a rest halfway.

Another solid wall climb, that keeps it's interest until almost the top before it gives up. The batman start avoids a rather strenuous start from the flake on the left.

Start: Three meters right of BM. Batman to first bolt.

Reasonably sustained wall climbing with a crux near the top. Grade 16 all the way to the anchors.

Start: Same as 'Black Member' under hole in wall.

Great climbing up a slightly slabby wall. No real hard moves just a series of grade 20 sequences to the top. The bolts are placed to protect any unfortunate snap offs you may get on the thin flakes. No finger shredding at all on this one, all tame jugs. Start: Five meters to the right of BM. At obvious hole in the wall. Route name changed at request of first ascentionist

Great climbing on good sized holds. No razor blade finger stuffing crimpers here. All vicious edges have been dealt with and anything you snap off is because you're off route.

Start: At crack line that leads up towards end of obvious left leading ramp that bisects the wall.

A generally solid wall climb with a good first third. Plenty of bolts with generally sound rock except for the dreaded conglomerate band.

Start: Five meters right of TA. On main wall at small left facing corner.

A good rest in the middle breaks the action on this route. Next route left of Alien Anal Academy. Up wall following the long line of bolts to juggy finish. Or go thru to top on even extra crap rock.

A balancy and technical arete on the right edge of this wall. Quite sustained and a little sandy.

Long varied climbing with a wonderful finish headwall. First bolt of 'Liquidity' then take right line of bolts up small left facing corner, over roof and weave up technical headwall.

The incredibly short and incredibly intense flake line 2m right from the left edge of the cave. Probably the hardest 22 on the planet. Take care clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

Starts in middle of black wall just around from Sunset Boulevard, then goes out to the right hand arete

Left arete of alcove, directly below Sunset Boulevard. Fine overhung slapping that is clearly visible from the ledge above. Worth the extra 2 minute walk.

Fun jugging between great holds

Start: 2 mtrs right of 'Konnichi Wa', jump or use cheat rock

Hard pulls at the start and finicky at the top

Pumpy start and a little techo finish

Start: Same as Peas in pod but trends left along large flake

Thin climbing with a technical crux. Start: 15 mtrs down from the chimney, up a little slab apron. Follow the line of bolts that head left and on to an easier flake.

Start as for Busted-arse Ol Coot. At the top of the crack go right on the flake line heading back left near the top to the anchors.

Start 8m right of the corner at the thin crack. Up the crack then trend left on thin holds.

Great pockets and kind edges to the top. Easy for the grade if you calibrate it from the original route on this wall 'Black Mamba'.

Start: Two meters right of Coffee Powered Shit Box. Or a little left of the true start to the obvious bisecting ramp.

A climb with two faces - an adventure! Starts in the middle of the slabby (south) side of the pillar 20m right of Mystery Wall. Scramble up mossy slab to the small ledge below the pillar. Follow bolts up slab (with a tricky move in the middle, which is easier if you are tall) to top of pillar. Step across the gap onto the face and follow bolts on flakey crimps to anchor at the top of the wall.

Awesome splitter hand crack to techy wall finish on bolts. A great looking line. Technical rather than too strenuous at the crux. Great rock than will stay clean unless the ferns grow back.

Start: 3m right of King Of Pop at vertical hand crack.

Wanders away from the third bolt to the left a bit to avoid any hard climbing. Otherwise a fine slabby wall with some interesting foot holds or lack there of.

Start: Three meters right of the alternative start to Mon Zombie

A bit crunchy. Will probably never get a repeat as it puts a hard start on a fun route and nobody wants that.

Start: Around corner to the right of previous two climbs.

A good climb up the other side of the arete. When you get towards the top remember that line from the favourite porn movie and "Slap that Butt" cos if you don't the next line from the movie will instantly come to mind, "yo bro watch the wind!"

Start: Same start as for 'Nazomi'.

Starts 2m right of DW on blank black slab. Has an interesting balancy mantle! Finish right at the anchors of 'Dark Energy'.

Long wall route up the left side of the first big wall. Orange flakes to start, through bulge and up reachy wall above.

The steep, overhanging corner crack sporting stainless steel. Stem, jam and layback - just like a trad route.

Climbs the right side of the the Establishment wall. Nice big jugs the whole way.

The name of this climb came from reading an article about chemicals in skin-care products. A little ripper with some nice pockets! Starts directly below 'Easy Tiger!' from the bottom of the cliff. Up the centre of the pocketed buttress and short wall at top, to anchor just below the ledge. If

continuing up 'Easy Tiger!' to the top of the cliff, the second can be belayed from the large tree on the ledge.

Pull hard past the first bulges and then commit to hard moves to big jugs.

Don't fall from the top easy section!

Start: Last route on the 'Wave Wall'.

Easy moves up flake then pull down hard for the rest

Start: Middle of wall up the obvious left leaning flake

Start: Just right of Five o'clock shadow, slab moves increasing with difficulty with height

Could be a little harder if your technique is lacking (like mine!) Starts up left leaning crack to join crash and burn at three quarter hieght

3 meters right of BaOC. Muscle onto the flake and climb with increasing difficulty until it relents to a jug haul.

Awkward start, then battle up the cracks to double RB lower off.

Great fun bridging up the corner.

Starts from the bottom of the cliff, directly below 'Mind the Gap'. Follow the line of bolts and either exit onto the Sunny Ledge, or continue up 'Mind the Gap'.

On the adjacent buttress, the line in the middle of face. Carefully cross the gap (there is a RB for the belayer to clip into to prevent any falls off the ledge). Straight up, then some nice sequency moves veering left then right. It's more like 'Mind the Trees' now!

Start just left of 'Smash and Grab' and up the crack and grey streak.

Start: Second climb on the black slab as you approach from left...Bit of thinking needed in the middle

Left 'arete 'of the wall. Easy start followed by a bit of a wander gets you to the steep fun section.

Very left hand end of steep pocketed wall. The last few moves are fun if you put the blinkers on and don't stem off the choss to the left. Not a good warm up.

30 meters from the rungs at the first orange wall, has two pockets to start the climb than on the wall until you push out onto the arete.

Same start as Two Up then just blast up thru the orange squeeze out onto the arete where it meets the roof. Finishes at Two Up anchors.

Starts just right of the crack on the steep orange wall then traverses around the arete, not as nice as "Spinner" and a touch harder.

Choosy roof crack then splitter hand crack up wall 10m left of Enlacement. This has only been top-roped. Needs more hammering of choss before I dare to lead it!

Follow the water worn feature straight up.

Nice climbing marred only by a little sand

Start: Start at the sandy cave at the base of the little corner.

Technical climbing packed into a short route

Start: Just right around the arete then takes line of bolts out left

Starts off a ledge gained by batmaning up the fixed rope. The corner behind the big tree.

Dirty, dirty, dirty route; but great fun moves.

Will get better with a few good kickings.

Balance up and control that barn dooring, grit style.

Start: Start in the entrance of the Hells Mouth Decent gully.

A vertical warm up with a hardish start and nice crux

Punchy bouldery start following bolts that trend right

Start: In the cave under the end of the left leaning crack.

Before it had had its first female ascent, the Matterhorn in Switzerland was considered to be a tough climb, fit for only the strongest male mountaineers. After a woman climbed the Matterhorn, it was considered to be an easy day for a lady. The route starts on the left side of the gridbolted black slab 30m right of 'Liquidity'. Techy slab on little pockets then continues on the right-hand buttress, onto a ledge and up a short blunt arete. At the short headwall at the top, follow the line of least resistance to the right and the anchor is just over the top. Route needs a direct finish and a lower-off!

Long fun climb at about 18 all the way, a little exposed way up there!!! Start at crack 4 mtrs right of "Peugeot" follow crack and wall to finish at same anchors.

Follow bolts along big rightwards leading ramp to rest then crux move getting onto top head wall.