Ascents in The Grease Cave having Beta

3rd shot

Very cool climb, the crux feels pretty compressed and insecure if you are taller

with good conditions this would be great, jams were a bit slippy with the humidity.

Chucked some draws on and worked my way through all the moves. With better beta it shouldn’t take too long to get the send.

Tried as a warmup and to sus out the moves, super cool climbing

2 shots to put draws up and tried to remember beta

Dropped it after sticking my crux, and then had a rest, pulled back in and got to the anchors, should (hopefully) go next session

3 burns, was so incredibly close to sending on the last attempt.

A warmup, then a red point burn, felt super strong but forgot a crucial heel placement

WOOOOOOO!!! SOO STOKED! Seems like the training is paying off, felt super chill despite nearly dropping the end due to pre-send excitement.

Such a great climb, stoked to get the flash

super cool compression climbing, can see the moves but need way more strength to actually do more then one move at a time.

Wow such an awesome climb, nothing overly difficult, just need more endurance.

2 more laps, can see it going soon, doing all the moves consitently but having to sit on bolts still, should get to 1 sit next session.

A lap to rework the moves, and 2 repoint attempts that ended just before the final kneebar

3x redpoint burns all getting dropped due to a wrong right foot placement going for the end kneebar. Just have to remember to keep my foot out right and i will send. Super stoked.

Got the most flash pumped i've ever been in my life on the warm up but the moves felt super good and i felt super strong.

WOOOO!!! Somehow my first 27 send, so so so stoked. I've been so busy on harder stuff that this felt super chill. Had a bit of excitement clipping the crux draw as i'm used to a long draw being there.

Really cool, went bolt to bolt. Consistent punchy moves that progressively get harder. Definitely a really good climb but not something i'm going to put my time into for a while.

Blew the “flash” attempt massively by only bringing 2 draws, and attempting to do a very direct sequence (which might’ve still worked if I had the draws and the confidence in it being correct) into the roof which I’ve since been told actually goes about a metre further right. Had a second attempt with enough draws but still trying direct. which seems doable but significantly harder then the “proper” way. Still feel like the “proper” way is pretty close to doing blowing on the ceiling but I guess I’ll see once I film the send and have someone tell me otherwise.

End of day lap for training

2 working laps, feels way better than the first time I tried this.

2x attempts, first felt great, had no energy for the next attempt

Butchered it but feels close

Good to see how much easier this feels these days

2x working laps, just have to get comfortable with that cut again and then it should go

Started as a warmup lap and to setup the crux draw. Quickly become a solid redpoint attempt, felt really good, just got the heel at the crux stuck. Should go pretty easily when I’m actually fresh. Using 4mm elastic bungee cord to hold the crux draw closer works amazingly.

5x attempts, 3x ending at the last move, just getting pre send nerves and just getting to the jug but not holding it.

So stoked to finally do this. Flowed so comfortably up it, pretty happy I was able to hold it together and one arm clip the anchors to. Done using elastic cord to hold the crux draw (adjusting it is apparently the standard)

Feels way closer than expected, all the time on physical graffiti has prepared me well since it’s surprisingly similar

I think I’ve been mislead into thinking this was jugs, definitely a few not jugs up there

Got a bit stitched up by the hard clip being the other way, but I was definitely coming off up higher anyway.

Bit more pumpy than I remembered

Very cool, all but the last move felt really good, definitely a future project

All the moves done, that last sequence is bloody awesome

Warmup send

2x laps, constantly improving the beta, found about 6 more kneebars

Good route to confirm how stronk I’m feeling, felt like bucket jugs today, just had some foot slips

Far out the moves on this felt so easy today, i can definitely tell the bit of training has been paying off. My footwork on the other hand was shit all day, so keen to get back on this and give it a proper shot

Got the belay tick, stoked

A beta lap, a good attempt, and a really shit redpoint attempt

Should’ve waited for the connies

A truely pathetic performance on my part, lost this weekend

So good and so different

Can’t believe I let go, had a second attempt but that was mainly to throw my toys

Really spicy in loose trail running shoes

Still fun