Routes as trad in Bangor West

The seeping right facing corner around the corner from ER. Twin cracks to Storm water drain.

Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of "Dorothy May" The first 4m direct looks 20 I reckon, probably starts on the jugs of Reno

Crack R of Hobbit Nose with a blank section up high. Take cams

Flared crack left of Hobbit Nose, can be done entirely on hexes and a few wires, classic! Easier with the tree to start.

Thin crack at the base of the gully on the left wall as you walk down, One hard move then up crack and nose on right to easy top out, good gear all the way (you can put a high cam in the protect the start). Double U anchor, best to abseil to avoid rope wear.

Start about 1m L of Sandstorm by a little layback. Either hard straight up on crimps or (much nicer and easier) up left a move then right following pockets up to break (hand and fist sized cams). Up crack and tenuous slab finish straight above to rings well back. Good gear after start

Start on ramp as for Rainman but veer right using pocket, hard move to break (hand and fist sized cams). Hard move left into crack and break then up easily.

Climb true direct to the anchors of pyromaniac, through centre of bolts on each side via gaston pocket and flaring vertical seam.

Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start to a good fist sized cam in break, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. Next break is big so clip one of AB's bolts and finish on AB anchor. Maybe 16V2?

Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of 'Andrew's Bulge'.

Start: 0.5m left of GT, Seam (wires)and thread

Up crack 1.5m left of ST, then up of blunt arete.

Corner crack left of ZT.

Bouldery start then easy.

1m left of TaB.

The grovelly dirty chimney.

Corner crack just left of ALH.

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner. Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python. Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up . Really runout easy to deck. Dare Devil sports climb.

On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag.

Mantle, then up. No pro.

Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.

Boldly boulder out of the cave and up into horizontal seam to good gear. Continue along and up the 2 horizontal runnels to the next break and onwards to anchors of Death of a Xanthorrhoea.

Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack

Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.

A great beginner trad lead with plenty of bomber gear and good stances for placing. You can even practice your offwidth chicken arm and leg jamming at half height.

The crack located just to the left of Buzz Boys Beat.

Shares anchors with Buzz Boys Beat. If you're tall enough you can reach them from the ledge.

Wide roof crack mini route that requires nearly zero off-widthing!

Can be done either as a trad route (protect with 1-2 size 6s) or as a high ball boulder.