A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Andreas Aachen Constantine Dritsas Poppy Adrian Cuff Jordon Chris Yeomans Matt Brooks muki Woods FabianSchuelke Jamie Armitage
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Eastern Bloc 16 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Eastern Bloc 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.955655, 144.412937
description
A 40m long wall containing some of the best and hardest collection of face climbs in the YY. Most routes can also be top roped. 4 sets of steal belay bolts services this area. Routes are described from left to right! Most routes have a high first bolt and a big run-out on top.
access issues
National Park. Parks Vic website (Oct 2014) says "[...] Bookings are required for groups. Individuals are not required to book, but should check with the Park Office to enquire about the availability of sites. [...]"
approach
From Big Rock car park take the defined track to Big Rock. At the track intersection before the track meets the rock (ie. at the Sign that says "Big Rock 20m") turn left (sign = "Park Office 1.5km") and go down the track (which runs next to a low steep wall). 40m down walk right off the track to the wall.
ethic
Mixed climbing with trad and some sports options, as well as bouldering. Bring hangar plates, as many climbs are equipped with carrot bolts.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Gorky Park
Left of "water-runnel". Looks like no gear. FA: Andrew Lindblade, 1987 | 14 | 13m | |||||
2 |
★ East Meets West
Right of "water-runnel'. Its a long way to the 1st bolt but on solid holds. FA: David Clarke, 1985 | 15 | 13m, 1 | |||||
3 |
★ Spandau
1m right of EMW. Nice moves. Enjoyable climb. Shares second bolt of BotBW? FA: Simon Barrett, 1987 | 17 | 13m, 2 | |||||
4 |
★ Bouldering on the Berlin Wall
Up past bucket 2m right of Spandau. Two carrot bolts. Very high to the 1st bolt on small holds. Tricky to reach the 1st carrot if your short. FA: Peter Woodfield, 1985 | 17 | 13m, 2 | |||||
5 |
★★ Black Steel in the Hour of Chaos
One Ringbolt + 2 FH. Tricky second bolt clip - take care. FA: James Morton, 1990 | 23 | 15m, 3 | |||||
6 |
★ Checkpoint Charlie
2m right of BSHC. Two carrot bolts. FA: Jeremy Boreham, 1985 | 20 | 16m, 2 | |||||
7 |
★ Reptiles, Lust and Dogs
Long traverse. Start as for CC, then traverse R to finish up KC. Six carrots. FA: Andrew Lindblade | 22 | 25m, 6 | |||||
8 |
★ Cold War
Hard start. Only seems to have one bolt. Either climb R into Iron Curtain, or L into CC. FA: David Clarke | 21 | 14m | |||||
9 |
★ The Iron Curtain
Two carrot bolts. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1985 | 21 | 15m, 2 | |||||
10 |
★ The Iron Curtain Direct Finish
Same crux, but finish R up FH instead. FA: Andrew Lindblade, 1989 | 21 | 15m | |||||
11 |
★★ European Tour
2m right of IC. Two carrots. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1985 | 21 | 15m | |||||
12 |
★ Raisa
3m right of ET. Two carrots. FA: Kim Carrigan | 23 | 12m | |||||
13 |
★ View to the West
Up past hole 2m right of Raisa. Two carrots. FA: Kim Carrigan | 26 | 12m | |||||
14 |
★ Kremlin Kapers
2m right of VW.Two carrots. FA: Peter Lindorff, 1985 | 23 | 10m, 2 | |||||
15 |
★ Go the Hack
FA: Andrew Lindblade, 1989 | 23 | 10m | |||||
16 |
Squash Up, Tony
FA: James Falla, 1985 | 17 | 8m | |||||
|
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
14 | Gorky Park | 13m | |||
15 | ★ | East Meets West | 13m, 1 | ||
17 | ★ | Bouldering on the Berlin Wall | 13m, 2 | ||
★ | Spandau | 13m, 2 | |||
Squash Up, Tony | 8m | ||||
20 | ★ | Checkpoint Charlie | 16m, 2 | ||
21 | ★ | Cold War | 14m | ||
★★ | European Tour | 15m | |||
★ | The Iron Curtain | 15m, 2 | |||
★ | The Iron Curtain Direct Finish | 15m | |||
22 | ★ | Reptiles, Lust and Dogs | 25m, 6 | ||
23 | ★★ | Black Steel in the Hour of Chaos | 15m, 3 | ||
★ | Go the Hack | 10m | |||
★ | Kremlin Kapers | 10m, 2 | |||
★ | Raisa | 12m | |||
26 | ★ | View to the West | 12m |