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North Sentinel Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Matt Brooks Luen Warneke Chris Beric Jarrah Ben Jenga Marshall Nick Murphy zac James Kaczmarek

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. North Sentinel 66 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -19.384840, 146.629603

summary

Peregrine Falcons are known to nest above the Fishbowl from July until September. If you see or hear them during this time please leave and climb elsewhere.

description

The North Sentinel is favourably featured, with a large variety of caves, slabs, overhangs and cracklines.

access issues

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

approach

From the carpark continue up the steep track to where a foot pad branches off R. Take this for approx 80 m and take the faint L footpad going steeply up the hill to Juicy Buttress. Go L around the base of this and across the steep hillside to the base north sentinel. You are just down hill of the large and obvious Fishbowl.

where to stay

Plenty of varied accommodation in Townsville. It is also possible to camp on the saddle between the North and South Sentinels but be prepared to carry all your gear up the hill.

ethic

Mixed, trad and sport routes all exist here.

1.1. The Crater 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -19.385089, 146.630230

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mango

FFA: Kat Damjanovic, Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 19 Feb 2017

22 Sport 16m, 8
2 The Wizard

FFA: Steven Ioannou, Kat Damjanovic & Chris Beric, 19 Feb 2017

22 Sport 17m, 9
3 Animal Farm

FFA: Kat Damjanovic & Steven Ioannou, 1 Apr 2017

25 Sport 20m, 13
4 Firefly

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 8 Apr 2017

27 Sport 20m, 12
5 Zinger

FFA: Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 26 Feb 2017

24 Sport 20m, 10

1.2. Little Girls Lost 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -19.384646, 146.629996

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Little Girls Lost

FFA: Leia Clark & Emma Richmond-Darvill, 2008

10 Trad 25m
2 The Red Wedding
  1. 17 32m

  2. 6 8m

FFA: Leia Clark, Steve Ioannou, Chris Glastonbury & Chris Beric, 2013

17 Sport 40m, 2, 15
3 Rainshadow

FFA: Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 22 Dec 2016

25 Sport 34m, 19
4 Dothraki Handmaidens

Warning Fixed Gear: Potentially Compromised Bolts

FFA: leia clark, Kylie Svaricek & Rachel de Zoete, 26 Jul 2015

12 Sport 20m, 7
5 Winter Is Coming (Apparently)

Warning Fixed Gear: Potentially Compromised Bolts

FFA: leia clark & Rachel de Zoete, 2 Jul 2016

19 Sport 30m, 15
6 Half-Man

FFA: leia clark, Mark Newall & Rachel de Zoete, 5 Jul 2015

18 Sport 35m
7 Sapphire Isles

FFA: Leia Clark & Garry Warren, 2 Aug 2014

15 Mixed trad 36m, 11
8 Dragon's Orifice

FFA: leia clark, 25 Nov 2017

14 Mixed trad 30m, 4
9 Arya

FFA: leia clark, Kylie Svaricek & Frank Attard, 28 May 2017

12 Sport 28m, 8

1.3. Moonscaper 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -19.384293, 146.629891

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Beric Brothers

FFA: Andrew Beric & Chris Beric, 10 Sep 2016

18 Sport 27m
2 Jugs Murphy

Starts up obvious ramp. Caress the uber jugs! Climb into mini cave 3/4 up, then L out of cave up berko jugs to finish way outer space.

FFA: Chris Beric, Stephen Murphy & Melissa Baker, 12 Mar 2016

17 Sport 27m, 13
3 Disposable Heroes

Shares 1st bolt of Jugs Murphy then branches directly up and right. Climb right between last bolt and anchor for jumbo jugs.

FFA: Chris Beric & Stephen Murphy, 12 Feb 2016

19 Sport 16m, 9
4 Permission to Send

As per Disposable Heroes and then branches further right up blocky face. Take care with large amazing horn feature.

FFA: Chris Beric, Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 13 Feb 2016

20 Sport 18m, 9
5 Moonscaper

Shares 1st 3 bolts of PTS, then trends right up layback. Brilliant exposed finish!

FFA: Chris Beric, Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 13 Feb 2016

21 Sport 23m, 13
6 The milky way

3 bolt direct variant start to Moonscaper (can link into Permission to Send and Disposable heroes also)

21 Sport 23m, 15
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Moonshadow

FFA: Katarina Damjanovic & Steven Ioannou, 20 Feb 2016

24 Sport 20m, 12
8 Failure Is Not An Option

FFA: Kat Damjanovic & Steven Ioannou, 28 Mar 2016

25 Sport 18m, 10
9 Decison Avoidance

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 15 Apr 2016

26 Sport 18m, 10
10 Lunaite

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 19 Mar 2016

26 Sport 12m, 8

1.4. Dirty Ladder 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -19.384052, 146.629717

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Big boys gunna get ya
  1. 38m Starts with a thin crack heading diagonally up and right then zig zags up and over a bulge (crux) then directly up to a ledge with a thin tree for the first pitch.

  2. 12m Then straight up a corner crack for another 12m for the 2nd.

FFA: Lorne Anderson, David Jones & Marshall, 30 May 2015

17 Trad 50m, 2

1.5. Dreamtime 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -19.384118, 146.629512

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dirty Business

A beautiful beginners climb that has some slaby moves to the end crux with good holds. Shares the same anchor as Foxy Lady.

FFA: Chris Beric, Melissa Baker & Steven Ioannou, 19 Sep 2015

15 Sport 11m, 7
2 Foxy Lady

Stand back and look for the fox! A beautiful technical climb with classic jug ending. Shares the same anchor as Dirty Business.

FA:

FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 7 Mar 2015

16 Sport 11m, 7
3 Buzzkill

FFA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 3 Apr 2015

23 Sport 12m, 8

1.6. Fishbowl 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -19.384415, 146.629173

description

Peregrine Falcons are known to nest above the Fishbowl from July until September. If you see or hear them during this time please leave and climb elsewhere. Steep, steep and steeper. The fishbowl stays in the shade for most of the day but is best in the morning.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Compromise

FFA: Steve Ioannou, Chris Beric & Chris Glastonbury, 2013

23 Sport 10m, 8
2 Scarlett

Set: Steven Ioannou, 21 Feb 2015

FFA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 28 Mar 2015

25 Sport 18m, 12
3 20 Pieces of Silver

Up the ropes on the left of the cave. Nice little orange wall.

FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 21 Mar 2015

24 Sport 15m, 8
4 Iron Army

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 30 Dec 2015

25 Sport 20m, 14
5 Token

Little trad line will a low roof and a bolt before the lower off.

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012

21 Mixed trad 12m, 1
6 The 27 Club

Starting left of "The 28 Club" and starting with nice boulderish moves followed by a pockety/juggy traverse that leads into a fun crux with decent holds. Holds may be wet and slimy after heavy rain.

Set: Chris Glastonbury, 2012

FFA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 17 Aug 2014

27 Sport 20m, 12
7 The 28 Club

Set: Steven Ioannou, 2014

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 7 Mar 2015

28 Sport 20m, 14
8 Bear Necessities

Starting left of Nude Nothings, this route has good climbing most of the way followed by a definite crux where all good holds have been ripped away to leave only a difficult move, one hard & crimpy crux. A steep finish to anchors shared with Nude Nothings.

FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 31 Jan 2015

23 Sport 12m, 7
9 Happyland

FFA: Kat Damjanovic, 26 Jul 2018

28 Sport 25m
10 Fuck The Silver

Set: Chris Beric, 2015

FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 11 Jul 2015

25 Sport 20m, 11
11 Nude Nothings

Start as for Calamity Clam. Follow this for 2 bolts then go L up the ramp and the steep finish to the anchors of Bear Necessities.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 24 Feb 2018

22 Sport 15m, 7
12 Escape Plan

FFA: Steve Ioannou, 14 Sep 2014

28 Sport 25m, 16
13 Manic Direct

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 18 Jun 2016

31 Sport
14 Manic Possibility

Up to the double kneebar for a rest before last boulder problem.

Set: Steve Ioannou

FFA: Steve Ioannou, 31 Oct 2014

30 Sport 25m, 16
15 Calamity Clam

The oblivious steep rib in the middle of the cave.

Set: Graham Page & Chris Glastonbury

FFA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 1 Aug 2014

27 Sport 20m, 10
16 Calamity Clam VF

FFA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 11 Jul 2015

27 Sport 22m, 11
17 Clementine

Set: Chris Glastonbury, 2012

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 12 Nov 2016

28 Sport 15m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 Beast From The Deep

The crag classic, stick with the mank start as the rock gets vastly better by the third bolt. Great endurance climbing with a powerful finish.

Set: Chris Glastonbury

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 26 Aug 2014

27 Sport 17m, 12
19 Beast Within

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 28 Aug 2015

28 Sport 21m, 14
20 Through The Never

FFA: Chris Beric & Steve Ioannou, 28 Aug 2015

27 Sport 17m, 12
21 Sharktooth

Set: Chris Beric, Aug 2015

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 14 Aug 2015

28 Sport 18m, 11
22 Raise The Kraken

FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 29 Jun 2016

28 Sport 19m, 12
23 Megalodon

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 9 Apr 2016

29 Sport 17m, 11
24 Short Kraken

The shorter version of The Kraken.

28 Sport 14m, 7
25 The Kraken

The extension of Short Kraken.

Set: Steven Ioannou, 22 Dec 2014

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 17 Jul 2015

30 Sport 18m, 12
26 Black Rain

Set: Steven Ioannou

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 12 Mar 2016

29 Sport 12m, 8

1.7. Haystack 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -19.384885, 146.629083

description

Slabs to steep faces. Some good warm ups for the Fishbowl and some classics on their own. Best in the morning shade. Gets sun around midday.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Burn It Up

Starting just left of Torched. This fun route has a technical start for beginners, and tricky finish for shorter climbers.

Set: Steven Ioannou

FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 7 Jul 2015

15 Sport 8m, 7
2 Torched

A very fun climb with good holds up to a balancy crux! Starting 2m right of BIU; up the flake, jugs, another flake then onto the slab and up to the chains. Beware of blocks that might still be loose.

FFA: David Ware & Matt Brooks, 10 Mar 2018

16 Sport 25m, 8
3 Yogi Bear

Starting around the corner from Torched and just left of Phantom Bolters. A fun route that requires good footwork, and trusting feet to get to the anchor. It shares an anchor with Phantom Bolters.

FA:

FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 17 Jan 2015

17 Sport 12m, 6
4 Phantom Bolters

Starting just right of YB. This route has engaging and fun moves where a height dependent move in the middle is possible. It shares an anchor with Yogi Bear.

FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 3 Apr 2015

21 Sport 12m, 6
5 End The Rapture

Starting just right of Phantom Bolters.

FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 13 Jun 2015

26 Sport 9m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Haywalker

Starting just left of Nacho Libre, this is an excellent warm-up route for the area, with a technical start, and a consistent intensity level up to the finish after a short rest. Fun and technical!

Set: Steve Ioannou

FFA: Steve Ioannou, Marina Haintz & Chris Glastonbury, 26 Jul 2014

19 Sport 12m, 8
7 Nacho Libre

Start 2m R of Haywalker. Up the flake and into the corner. Step R onto the face and up to the first lower off. Seeps extensively after rain.

Set: Matt Brooks, 18 Mar 2018

FA: Matt Brooks & jack thomas, 24 Mar 2018

17 Sport 15m, 5
8 Nacho Average Hero

Despite the name, there's good technical climbing up the corner above Nacho Libre's chains. Climb NL and continue up the corner past 4 RBs to the lower off.

Set: Matt Brooks, 24 Mar 2018

FFA: Matt Brooks, 7 Apr 2018

23 Sport 10m, 10
9 The Willing Flesh

Some fine thin and technical face climbing with interesting boulder start. Start as for Nacho Libre for 2 bolts then move R up the hanging arete before coming L onto the face higher up. Finish at the chains as for Nacho Average Hero.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 30 Mar 2018

24 Sport 25m, 11
10 Half Baked

Starting uphill from The Willing Flesh. This route has some cool moves with a few awkward and hard ones.

Set: Steve Ioannou

FFA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 31 May 2015

25 Sport 13m, 8
11 Needle In The Hay

A steep and pumpy route with a crux at the end.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 2012

25 Sport 10m, 7
12 Second Guessing

No time for second guessing, seond guessing. Climb 1st 3m of NITH, then charge R onto steep face. Head straight up to the cave . Mind the wasps 3/4 of way up in cave. They were removed but keep coming back! Stick clip 1st bolt.

FA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 21 Mar 2015

24 Sport 13m, 7

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
10 Little Girls Lost Trad 25m 1.2. Little Girls Lost
12 Arya Sport 28m, 8 1.2. Little Girls Lost
Dothraki Handmaidens Sport 20m, 7 1.2. Little Girls Lost
14 Dragon's Orifice Mixed trad 30m, 4 1.2. Little Girls Lost
15 Sapphire Isles Mixed trad 36m, 11 1.2. Little Girls Lost
Dirty Business Sport 11m, 7 1.5. Dreamtime
Burn It Up Sport 8m, 7 1.7. Haystack
16 Foxy Lady Sport 11m, 7 1.5. Dreamtime
Torched Sport 25m, 8 1.7. Haystack
17 The Red Wedding Sport 40m, 2, 15 1.2. Little Girls Lost
Jugs Murphy Sport 27m, 13 1.3. Moonscaper
Big boys gunna get ya Trad 50m, 2 1.4. Dirty Ladder
Nacho Libre Sport 15m, 5 1.7. Haystack
Yogi Bear Sport 12m, 6 1.7. Haystack
18 Half-Man Sport 35m 1.2. Little Girls Lost
Beric Brothers Sport 27m 1.3. Moonscaper
19 Winter Is Coming (Apparently) Sport 30m, 15 1.2. Little Girls Lost
Disposable Heroes Sport 16m, 9 1.3. Moonscaper
Haywalker Sport 12m, 8 1.7. Haystack
20 Permission to Send Sport 18m, 9 1.3. Moonscaper
21 Moonscaper Sport 23m, 13 1.3. Moonscaper
The milky way Sport 23m, 15 1.3. Moonscaper
Token Mixed trad 12m, 1 1.6. Fishbowl
Phantom Bolters Sport 12m, 6 1.7. Haystack
22 Mango Sport 16m, 8 1.1. The Crater
The Wizard Sport 17m, 9 1.1. The Crater
Nude Nothings Sport 15m, 7 1.6. Fishbowl
23 Buzzkill Sport 12m, 8 1.5. Dreamtime
Bear Necessities Sport 12m, 7 1.6. Fishbowl
Compromise Sport 10m, 8 1.6. Fishbowl
Nacho Average Hero Sport 10m, 10 1.7. Haystack
24 Zinger Sport 20m, 10 1.1. The Crater
Moonshadow Sport 20m, 12 1.3. Moonscaper
20 Pieces of Silver Sport 15m, 8 1.6. Fishbowl
Second Guessing Sport 13m, 7 1.7. Haystack
The Willing Flesh Sport 25m, 11 1.7. Haystack
25 Animal Farm Sport 20m, 13 1.1. The Crater
Rainshadow Sport 34m, 19 1.2. Little Girls Lost
Failure Is Not An Option Sport 18m, 10 1.3. Moonscaper
Fuck The Silver Sport 20m, 11 1.6. Fishbowl
Iron Army Sport 20m, 14 1.6. Fishbowl
Scarlett Sport 18m, 12 1.6. Fishbowl
Half Baked Sport 13m, 8 1.7. Haystack
Needle In The Hay Sport 10m, 7 1.7. Haystack
26 Decison Avoidance Sport 18m, 10 1.3. Moonscaper
Lunaite Sport 12m, 8 1.3. Moonscaper
End The Rapture Sport 9m, 6 1.7. Haystack
27 Firefly Sport 20m, 12 1.1. The Crater
Beast From The Deep Sport 17m, 12 1.6. Fishbowl
Calamity Clam Sport 20m, 10 1.6. Fishbowl
Calamity Clam VF Sport 22m, 11 1.6. Fishbowl
The 27 Club Sport 20m, 12 1.6. Fishbowl
Through The Never Sport 17m, 12 1.6. Fishbowl
28 Beast Within Sport 21m, 14 1.6. Fishbowl
Clementine Sport 15m, 9 1.6. Fishbowl
Escape Plan Sport 25m, 16 1.6. Fishbowl
Happyland Sport 25m 1.6. Fishbowl
Raise The Kraken Sport 19m, 12 1.6. Fishbowl
Sharktooth Sport 18m, 11 1.6. Fishbowl
Short Kraken Sport 14m, 7 1.6. Fishbowl
The 28 Club Sport 20m, 14 1.6. Fishbowl
29 Black Rain Sport 12m, 8 1.6. Fishbowl
Megalodon Sport 17m, 11 1.6. Fishbowl
30 Manic Possibility Sport 25m, 16 1.6. Fishbowl
The Kraken Sport 18m, 12 1.6. Fishbowl
31 Manic Direct Sport 1.6. Fishbowl
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