A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Matt Brooks Luen Warneke Chris Beric Jarrah Ben Jenga Brendan Heywood Marshall Nick Murphy zac James Kaczmarek
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
North Sentinel
66 in Crag
- 1.1. The Crater 5 in Cliff
- 1.2. Little Girls Lost 9 in Cliff
- 1.3. Moonscaper 10 in Cliff
- 1.4. Dirty Ladder 1 in Cliff
- 1.5. Dreamtime 3 in Cliff
- 1.6. Fishbowl 26 in Cliff
- 1.7. Haystack 12 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. North Sentinel 66 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -19.384840, 146.629603
summary
Peregrine Falcons are known to nest above the Fishbowl from July until September. If you see or hear them during this time please leave and climb elsewhere.
description
The North Sentinel is favourably featured, with a large variety of caves, slabs, overhangs and cracklines.
access issues
Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.
approach
From the carpark continue up the steep track to where a foot pad branches off R. Take this for approx 80 m and take the faint L footpad going steeply up the hill to Juicy Buttress. Go L around the base of this and across the steep hillside to the base north sentinel. You are just down hill of the large and obvious Fishbowl.
where to stay
Plenty of varied accommodation in Townsville. It is also possible to camp on the saddle between the North and South Sentinels but be prepared to carry all your gear up the hill.
ethic
Mixed, trad and sport routes all exist here.
1.1. The Crater 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -19.385089, 146.630230
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Mango
FFA: Kat Damjanovic, Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 19 Feb 2017 | 22 | 16m, 8 | |||
2 |
The Wizard
FFA: Steven Ioannou, Kat Damjanovic & Chris Beric, 19 Feb 2017 | 22 | 17m, 9 | |||
3 |
Animal Farm
FFA: Kat Damjanovic & Steven Ioannou, 1 Apr 2017 | 25 | 20m, 13 | |||
4 |
Firefly
FFA: Steven Ioannou, 8 Apr 2017 | 27 | 20m, 12 | |||
5 |
★ Zinger
FFA: Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 26 Feb 2017 | 24 | 20m, 10 |
1.2. Little Girls Lost 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -19.384646, 146.629996
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Little Girls Lost
FFA: Leia Clark & Emma Richmond-Darvill, 2008 | 10 | 25m | |||
2 |
★ The Red Wedding
FFA: Leia Clark, Steve Ioannou, Chris Glastonbury & Chris Beric, 2013 | 17 | 40m, 2, 15 | |||
3 |
Rainshadow
FFA: Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 22 Dec 2016 | 25 | 34m, 19 | |||
4 |
Dothraki Handmaidens
Warning Fixed Gear: Potentially Compromised Bolts FFA: leia clark, Kylie Svaricek & Rachel de Zoete, 26 Jul 2015 | 12 | 20m, 7 | |||
5 |
★ Winter Is Coming (Apparently)
Warning Fixed Gear: Potentially Compromised Bolts FFA: leia clark & Rachel de Zoete, 2 Jul 2016 | 19 | 30m, 15 | |||
6 |
Half-Man
FFA: leia clark, Mark Newall & Rachel de Zoete, 5 Jul 2015 | 18 | 35m | |||
7 |
★ Sapphire Isles
FFA: Leia Clark & Garry Warren, 2 Aug 2014 | 15 | 36m, 11 | |||
8 |
Dragon's Orifice
FFA: leia clark, 25 Nov 2017 | 14 | 30m, 4 | |||
9 |
★ Arya
FFA: leia clark, Kylie Svaricek & Frank Attard, 28 May 2017 | 12 | 28m, 8 |
1.3. Moonscaper 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -19.384293, 146.629891
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Beric Brothers
FFA: Andrew Beric & Chris Beric, 10 Sep 2016 | 18 | 27m | |||||
2 |
★ Jugs Murphy
Starts up obvious ramp. Caress the uber jugs! Climb into mini cave 3/4 up, then L out of cave up berko jugs to finish way outer space. FFA: Chris Beric, Stephen Murphy & Melissa Baker, 12 Mar 2016 | 17 | 27m, 13 | |||||
3 |
★ Disposable Heroes
Shares 1st bolt of Jugs Murphy then branches directly up and right. Climb right between last bolt and anchor for jumbo jugs. FFA: Chris Beric & Stephen Murphy, 12 Feb 2016 | 19 | 16m, 9 | |||||
4 |
★ Permission to Send
As per Disposable Heroes and then branches further right up blocky face. Take care with large amazing horn feature. FFA: Chris Beric, Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 13 Feb 2016 | 20 | 18m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ Moonscaper
Shares 1st 3 bolts of PTS, then trends right up layback. Brilliant exposed finish! FFA: Chris Beric, Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 13 Feb 2016 | 21 | 23m, 13 | |||||
6 |
★ The milky way
3 bolt direct variant start to Moonscaper (can link into Permission to Send and Disposable heroes also) FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 2016 | 21 | 23m, 15 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ Moonshadow
FFA: Katarina Damjanovic & Steven Ioannou, 20 Feb 2016 | 24 | 20m, 12 | |||||
8 |
Failure Is Not An Option
FFA: Kat Damjanovic & Steven Ioannou, 28 Mar 2016 | 25 | 18m, 10 | |||||
9 |
Decison Avoidance
FFA: Steven Ioannou, 15 Apr 2016 | 26 | 18m, 10 | |||||
10 |
Lunaite
FFA: Steven Ioannou, 19 Mar 2016 | 26 | 12m, 8 |
1.4. Dirty Ladder 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -19.384052, 146.629717
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Big boys gunna get ya
FFA: Lorne Anderson, David Jones & Marshall, 30 May 2015 | 17 | 50m, 2 |
1.5. Dreamtime 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -19.384118, 146.629512
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Dirty Business
A beautiful beginners climb that has some slaby moves to the end crux with good holds. Shares the same anchor as Foxy Lady. FFA: Chris Beric, Melissa Baker & Steven Ioannou, 19 Sep 2015 | 15 | 11m, 7 | |||||
2 |
★ Foxy Lady
Stand back and look for the fox! A beautiful technical climb with classic jug ending. Shares the same anchor as Dirty Business. FA: FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 7 Mar 2015 | 16 | 11m, 7 | |||||
3 |
Buzzkill
FFA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 3 Apr 2015 | 23 | 12m, 8 |
1.6. Fishbowl 26 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -19.384415, 146.629173
description
Peregrine Falcons are known to nest above the Fishbowl from July until September. If you see or hear them during this time please leave and climb elsewhere. Steep, steep and steeper. The fishbowl stays in the shade for most of the day but is best in the morning.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Compromise
FFA: Steve Ioannou, Chris Beric & Chris Glastonbury, 2013 | 23 | 10m, 8 | |||||
2 |
★★ Scarlett
Set: Steven Ioannou, 21 Feb 2015 FFA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 28 Mar 2015 | 25 | 18m, 12 | |||||
3 |
★★ 20 Pieces of Silver
Up the ropes on the left of the cave. Nice little orange wall. FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 21 Mar 2015 | 24 | 15m, 8 | |||||
4 |
Iron Army
FFA: Steven Ioannou, 30 Dec 2015 | 25 | 20m, 14 | |||||
5 |
★ Token
Little trad line will a low roof and a bolt before the lower off. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 21 | 12m, 1 | |||||
6 |
★★★ The 27 Club
Starting left of "The 28 Club" and starting with nice boulderish moves followed by a pockety/juggy traverse that leads into a fun crux with decent holds. Holds may be wet and slimy after heavy rain. Set: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 FFA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 17 Aug 2014 | 27 | 20m, 12 | |||||
7 |
The 28 Club
Set: Steven Ioannou, 2014 FFA: Steven Ioannou, 7 Mar 2015 | 28 | 20m, 14 | |||||
8 |
★★ Bear Necessities
Starting left of Nude Nothings, this route has good climbing most of the way followed by a definite crux where all good holds have been ripped away to leave only a difficult move, one hard & crimpy crux. A steep finish to anchors shared with Nude Nothings. FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 31 Jan 2015 | 23 | 12m, 7 | |||||
9 |
Happyland
FFA: Kat Damjanovic, 26 Jul 2018 | 28 | 25m | |||||
10 |
★★ Fuck The Silver
Set: Chris Beric, 2015 FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 11 Jul 2015 | 25 | 20m, 11 | |||||
11 |
★ Nude Nothings
Start as for Calamity Clam. Follow this for 2 bolts then go L up the ramp and the steep finish to the anchors of Bear Necessities. FA: Matthew Brooks, 24 Feb 2018 | 22 | 15m, 7 | |||||
12 |
★★★ Escape Plan
FFA: Steve Ioannou, 14 Sep 2014 | 28 | 25m, 16 | |||||
13 |
Manic Direct
FFA: Steven Ioannou, 18 Jun 2016 | 31 | ||||||
14 |
★★ Manic Possibility
Up to the double kneebar for a rest before last boulder problem. Set: Steve Ioannou FFA: Steve Ioannou, 31 Oct 2014 | 30 | 25m, 16 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Calamity Clam
The oblivious steep rib in the middle of the cave. Set: Graham Page & Chris Glastonbury FFA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 1 Aug 2014 | 27 | 20m, 10 | |||||
16 |
★★ Calamity Clam VF
FFA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 11 Jul 2015 | 27 | 22m, 11 | |||||
17 |
★★ Clementine
Set: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 12 Nov 2016 | 28 | 15m, 9 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 |
★★★ Beast From The Deep
The crag classic, stick with the mank start as the rock gets vastly better by the third bolt. Great endurance climbing with a powerful finish. Set: Chris Glastonbury FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 26 Aug 2014 | 27 | 17m, 12 | |||||
19 |
Beast Within
FFA: Steven Ioannou, 28 Aug 2015 | 28 | 21m, 14 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Through The Never
FFA: Chris Beric & Steve Ioannou, 28 Aug 2015 | 27 | 17m, 12 | |||||
21 |
★★ Sharktooth
Set: Chris Beric, Aug 2015 FFA: Steven Ioannou, 14 Aug 2015 | 28 | 18m, 11 | |||||
22 |
★★ Raise The Kraken
FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 29 Jun 2016 | 28 | 19m, 12 | |||||
23 |
Megalodon
FFA: Steven Ioannou, 9 Apr 2016 | 29 | 17m, 11 | |||||
24 |
★★ Short Kraken
The shorter version of The Kraken. | 28 | 14m, 7 | |||||
25 |
★★ The Kraken
The extension of Short Kraken. Set: Steven Ioannou, 22 Dec 2014 FFA: Steven Ioannou, 17 Jul 2015 | 30 | 18m, 12 | |||||
26 |
Black Rain
Set: Steven Ioannou FFA: Steven Ioannou, 12 Mar 2016 | 29 | 12m, 8 |
1.7. Haystack 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -19.384885, 146.629083
description
Slabs to steep faces. Some good warm ups for the Fishbowl and some classics on their own. Best in the morning shade. Gets sun around midday.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Burn It Up
Starting just left of Torched. This fun route has a technical start for beginners, and tricky finish for shorter climbers. Set: Steven Ioannou FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 7 Jul 2015 | 15 | 8m, 7 | |||||
2 |
★ Torched
A very fun climb with good holds up to a balancy crux! Starting 2m right of BIU; up the flake, jugs, another flake then onto the slab and up to the chains. Beware of blocks that might still be loose. FFA: David Ware & Matt Brooks, 10 Mar 2018 | 16 | 25m, 8 | |||||
3 |
★ Yogi Bear
Starting around the corner from Torched and just left of Phantom Bolters. A fun route that requires good footwork, and trusting feet to get to the anchor. It shares an anchor with Phantom Bolters. FA: FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 17 Jan 2015 | 17 | 12m, 6 | |||||
4 |
★ Phantom Bolters
Starting just right of YB. This route has engaging and fun moves where a height dependent move in the middle is possible. It shares an anchor with Yogi Bear. FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 3 Apr 2015 | 21 | 12m, 6 | |||||
5 |
★ End The Rapture
Starting just right of Phantom Bolters. FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 13 Jun 2015 | 26 | 9m, 6 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★ Haywalker
Starting just left of Nacho Libre, this is an excellent warm-up route for the area, with a technical start, and a consistent intensity level up to the finish after a short rest. Fun and technical! Set: Steve Ioannou FFA: Steve Ioannou, Marina Haintz & Chris Glastonbury, 26 Jul 2014 | 19 | 12m, 8 | |||||
7 |
★ Nacho Libre
Start 2m R of Haywalker. Up the flake and into the corner. Step R onto the face and up to the first lower off. Seeps extensively after rain. Set: Matt Brooks, 18 Mar 2018 FA: Matt Brooks & jack thomas, 24 Mar 2018 | 17 | 15m, 5 | |||||
8 |
★ Nacho Average Hero
Despite the name, there's good technical climbing up the corner above Nacho Libre's chains. Climb NL and continue up the corner past 4 RBs to the lower off. Set: Matt Brooks, 24 Mar 2018 FFA: Matt Brooks, 7 Apr 2018 | 23 | 10m, 10 | |||||
9 |
★★ The Willing Flesh
Some fine thin and technical face climbing with interesting boulder start. Start as for Nacho Libre for 2 bolts then move R up the hanging arete before coming L onto the face higher up. Finish at the chains as for Nacho Average Hero. FFA: Matt Brooks, 30 Mar 2018 | 24 | 25m, 11 | |||||
10 |
Half Baked
Starting uphill from The Willing Flesh. This route has some cool moves with a few awkward and hard ones. Set: Steve Ioannou FFA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 31 May 2015 | 25 | 13m, 8 | |||||
11 |
★★ Needle In The Hay
A steep and pumpy route with a crux at the end. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 2012 | 25 | 10m, 7 | |||||
12 |
★ Second Guessing
No time for second guessing, seond guessing. Climb 1st 3m of NITH, then charge R onto steep face. Head straight up to the cave . Mind the wasps 3/4 of way up in cave. They were removed but keep coming back! Stick clip 1st bolt. FA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 21 Mar 2015 | 24 | 13m, 7 |