Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V10 | |||||
The Stack | |||||
V10 | ★★ Globalisation Right
Sit-start just right of "Globalisation Left" on the low edge. One of Harvey's hardest problems. See the original guidebook for the starting holds. FA: Nick Larsen, 2007 | 4m | |||
V9/10 | |||||
The Lower Terrace | |||||
V9/10 | Bug Piss Project
An outstanding hard line. | ||||
V9 | |||||
The Upper Terrace | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Golden
A mega classic! Start just R of "Skippy With a Smile" with your LH on a high pinch and RH on a terrible slopey scoop. Up via small holds and two hard moves. If you jump start to right hand razor and skip the hard static start it's a V8. FA: SB, 2004 | 4m | |||
The Alley Way Boulders | |||||
V9 | ★★ Untextured Voltomic Volume
Face just right of Morning Glory following tricky gastons for a rounded mantle for top out. Watch your head on the large dead tree. FA: Glen Hayford, 5 Apr 2022 | 4m | |||
V8 | |||||
The Upper Terrace | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Best In Tension
The steep highball arête on the top L side of the boulder. Up via underclings and slopers to a crux rockover at about half height. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | 4m | |||
The Pass By Boulders | |||||
V8 | ★★★ The Nerd
An arete with fantastic body tension. | ||||
The Stack | |||||
V8 | ★★ Super flash
Lower start to “Rice Bubbles” on side pull and low knob. | ||||
V8 | ★ Globalisation Left
Sit-start the left-hand arete of the steepness. Starts with right-hand pinch and left-hand on arete. Up into Global. Two pads used for the sit-start on first ascent. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2004 | 4m | |||
The Fun Parlour | |||||
V8 | Subtle Manipulation Sit
Add the sit-start, with the lower of the two left-hand sidepulls and a right-hand sidepull barely off the ground, for a tough, thin and sustained problem. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V7 | |||||
The Upper Terrace | |||||
V7 | The Testicle Mantle Low Start
The low start to The Testicle Mantle. Done with RH on edge and low LH pinch. FA: SB | ||||
V7 | ★★ The Incred-Eye-Ball Mantle
Mantles the LH side of the eyeball. Move up the arete till you get your LH on the good crimp, and then a hard move moving L onto the slab. FA: Rob Saunders, 2002 | ||||
V7 | ★★★ The Big Tick
Face with undercut start 2m L of "The Incred-eye-ball mantle". Start below vague scoop with RH on tiny positive 'ear' and up on thin holds. FA: SB, 2002 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Australian Maid
LHV of Imported Products. Using a high LH hold, and moving up into the top of Imported Products. FA: SB, 2004 | ||||
V7 | Sidewinder
Just R of “Best in Show” Start off bad RH sidepull and high LH edge. Up to obvious cluster of small edges then move L and up. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
The Lower Terrace | |||||
V7 | Comfortably Numb
Sit-start on obvious holds. Straight up to a tough finish. FA: Madoc Sheehan | ||||
V7 | Sydney Seven
Eliminate the block for your feet on Sydney Six. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V7 | ★ Fly Guy
Link “Sly Fly” left into “My Girlfriends Got a New Girlfriend”, via a tough short traverse. FA: Tully Rohrer, 2003 | ||||
V7 | Sly Fly
Sit-start to “Sly Boy”. May be a crouched start if you can't reach the holds from the ground. Starts off the small edge and slopey sidepull located together. Up to bad holds and up slab. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Mr Stupid
Sit-start to “Mr Bastard”. A great problem that's often tried, seldom sent. FA: Madoc sheehan, 2002 | 4m | |||
The Alley Way Boulders | |||||
V7 | ★★ Selfish Contemplation
Up the middle of the face, short and hard. Previously known as the mono project that Live Lundemo came very close to. FA: Glen Hayford, 5 Apr 2022 | 4m | |||
The Cow Paddock | |||||
V7 | ★★★ The Five Year Cigar
Very tall, proud arête and a magnum opus. Sometimes there are some wasps on the right face, so be careful. FFA: Rob Saunders, 2004 | ||||
V7 | ★★★ The Divorce
Starting 2m left of "The Good Wife". Follow the line of edges and scoops up to a crux at the top with a cruisy mantle to finish. Mega classic! FA: Nick Larsen, 2004 | 7m | |||
V7 | Escape
Start as for "Bum Crack Sit Start", only go up and across diagonally left to finish up as for "Harry Houdini's Hand Holds", via a tough and thin traverse. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
The Snooze Boulders | |||||
V7 | Pulled Muscle Tendon
Start as for “Monster of Rock”, only takes the low traverse option after the first few moves. Big sideways move off the huge flake to small edges, then to jug. From jug continue as for “Monster of Rock”. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
Middle Marsh | |||||
V7 | ★★ Too Many Slopers SS
Sit-start going left to join the start of “Too Many Slopers”. Now contrived and superseded by Alister's beta “Too Many Slopers Direct” but cool enough to include here. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
The Embankment | |||||
V7 | Jehoshaphat
Right-hand side of wall. Up, with a terrible undercling and a small mono to start. FA: Spenser Tang-Smith | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Any Way But Steve's Way
Start in middle of face with low edges, moving up and left to a tough finish. Face was uncovered after a large fire destroyed a tree in front of the face. FA: Dan Radford | ||||
V7 | $10.80 Worth Of Tape
That is how much it cost Dan Radford to do the second ascent. Up from edges to slopes and mantle. FA: Madoc Sheehan | ||||
V7 | ★★★ The Norwegian Way
Sit-start to screamer. Classic and sustained up a steep arete. The convenient block/flake is not in as a starting hold for the right foot. Note: The starting left side flake broke April 2024. The climb has since been repeated and remains at the same grade. FA: Jon Egil Auestad, 2002 | ||||
The Fun Parlour | |||||
V7 | ★ The Mushroom Dyno
Start just to the right of “Timeout”, with both hands using the small roof as an undercling. Pull on and throw up and left for the flake and finish up this. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V7 | Little Lefties
A reference to the holds rather than a swipe at any particular political preference! Sit-start off the block (or crouched start) into above problem. Starts with low right-hand sidepull. Technical and crimpy. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2004 | ||||
V7 | ★ Subtle Manipulation
The high slab on the opposite side of “Fall From Grace”. Work through the low scoop and then up onto a balancy top. | ||||
V6/7 | |||||
The Fun Parlour | |||||
V6/7 | ★★ Arc
Continue "Fall from Grace" left along the slopey lip till you reach the other arete and mantle here. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2004 | ||||
V6 | |||||
Sunny Side | |||||
V6 | Tendon Terrorist
Reachy and a little contrived. The face with the high and tiny RH sidepull. Starts using a slopey LH pinch, Tough. Jug above and R of sidepull and arête of pinch are both off. FA: SB, 2002 | ||||
The Upper Terrace | |||||
V6 | Sleight of Hand
Start with the good RH sidepull about 3m R of Battle Of The Bulge, pretty much in front of the tree. Swing start, (one foot on the wall and jump) to a good LH hold. Up and L to the good holds above Imported Products. FA: SB, 2003 | ||||
V6 | Battle Of The Bulge
RHV of Imported Products. Start with your LH on the obvious sharp incut. Paste a foot and jump start up and R, then a slopey finish coming back L. FA: SB, 2004 | ||||
V6 | ★ Imported Products
Starts in the middle of the steep wall off the in-cut edges with a lack of feet. Big moves to the top. Sharp but good. FA: Matt Zimmerman, 2001 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Best In Show
Classic line just L of Best In Tension, sharing some holds. FA: Spenser, 2011 | 4m | |||
V6 | Nasty Barstard
Sit start off the block to above problem, using tiny RH sidepull and LH pinch. FA: SB, 2004 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Collateral Damage
2m L of Delicate Connection. Up, starting off high LH slopey pocket and undercling for RH. Don't move R to arête - if you do, you're doing "Collateral Damage Variant" - rather go straight up to a precise deadpoint then a desperate finish. FA: MS, 2001 | ||||
V6 | Font Dreaming
Start as for “Super Double With a Twist” but go up and Left, via some fantastic slopers, and mantling via jugs for Left-hand Fun. FA: SB, 2003 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Mike Delta X-Ray
Starts slightly on the right hand side under the obvious overhanging prow. Jump up to the lip to a sloper and mantle to the scoop. See also "Mike Delta X-Ray Variant" FA: Aaron Jones, 2000 | ||||
The Lower Terrace | |||||
V6 | ★ Sydney Six Point Five
Using the block for feet, start a couple of moves lower on Sydney Six. (See original guidebook). FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V6 | Split Pea
The sit start just left of the Sydney Six, finishing a couple of moves up with 2 small edges. Unfortunately the wall opposite makes any top out very unlikely. | ||||
V6 | ★★ Escape From Woomera
As for “Free the Refugees” but instead of mantling, continue traversing right to the big jug and then mantle. Nice easy tick and excellent fun. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | ||||
V6 | Free The Refugees Variant
Start with right-hand below the roof on the small flake for a tougher low start. FA: Tully Rohrer | ||||
V6 | ★★ State of Mind
Starts between “More Mats Please” and “Mr Stupid”. Low crouched start with left hand on the curving undercling flake, and right hand on the tiny edge. Move up via good left-hand edge and slopey right-hand pinch, then a crux slap left for a better hold and straight up. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V6 | Dust Storm
Face just right, between obvious right-hand arête and vague left-hand arête. Standing start and up anyway you can. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Schlappy
Dynamic move just left of “False Pretences”. Standing start and then up the flake to finish. Fun. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
The Alley Way Boulders | |||||
V6 | ★★ Morning Glory
Desperate thin and slopey RH arete, starting from LH side. Hard move to get chunky sidepull, followed by a blank top section. FA: MS, 2002 | ||||
The Castle | |||||
V6 | Xibalba Zig Zag
Very contrived. Start with the Xibalba starting hold for your left-hand, and your right-hand on a crimp in the roof. Awkwardly pull on and throw for the right-hand sloper, before a big move brings you back left. Continue traversing left all the way to the arête and an EASY mantle on some good holds. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
The Cow Paddock | |||||
V6 | The Oddity
Interesting. Start by establishing yourself on the detached block beneath the left leaning overhung arête. Now move right and onto the vertical face, going up this at the good flake. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ The Good Wife
Starting 2m right of "The Divorce". A steep highball face with good edges and sidepulls, just left of the obvious flake, with the crux at the top. Standing start off the pair of chunky edges. A super classic! FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2001 | 7m | |||
V6 | ★ The right cheek
Start 2m right of "Bum Crack" with a high slopey left-hand pinch, and a bad lower right-hand hold. Paste your feet and up to some slopes and a tricky mantle. Stack mats or blocks to reach the left-hand start hold if you are too short - see "The right cheek high start". FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | 3m | |||
The Snooze Boulders | |||||
V6 | Wondergirl
Sit-start in the middle of undercut slab. Move right to the arete and up via hard last move. Easier in winter. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
Middle Marsh | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Madi's Traverse
Start as for Nahaul and keep go left to finish above “Girl’s Time” on slopey holds. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
The Stack | |||||
V6 | Fart and Fall
Sit-start to “Rice Bubbles” using the underclings. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2004 | ||||
The Embankment | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Launch Pad
Face and arete with a long floaty dynamic crux. The small block directly below the arete is in for feet at the start. Note: the right-hand start hold broke mid-2022. The problem still goes at around V10. FA: Syeve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Slow Progress
Same sit-start as “Squatting Bear”, only move right into 'Trixter', moving right along crimps to the slab and up this. Technical and good. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Fate
Essentially “Mr Angry Head” without the swing start; In other words establish yourself on the rock and then dyno for the top. Technical and fun. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V6 | Snorkel Variant #2
Variant of “Snorkel”. Low start eliminating starting edge of original problem. | ||||
V5/6 | |||||
The Little Boulders | |||||
V5/6 | Bubblewrap
Sit start just right of ‘effervescence”, (just left of tree), using the flake embedded into the ground for your left Hand and feet, and the edge for your right Hand. Steep start up into “Effervescence”. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V5/6 | ★ Effervescence
Slopey pocket mantle L of the big tree and prominent nose (opposite side of boulder to above problems), not using the flake embedded in the ground. V12 if you use Madoc's original sequence and stick your R Foot above your head! FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2003 | ||||
The Upper Terrace | |||||
V5/6 | Of Mice and Men
Short wall just L of the above problem. Starts off a small edge and then up via some slopey dishes. Desperate. FA: MS, 2002 | ||||
The Cow Paddock | |||||
V5/6 | Whining Shorties
Essentially Nasty Knob, without the right-hand sidepulls. Sit start below the horn, with the slopers at the base of the vague arête. Now go straight up via some small divots and slopers to gain the horn. Reachy last move. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | 3m | |||
The Embankment | |||||
V5/6 | ★ Spring Loaded
The face and arête just left of tree. Start standing on the flake embedded in the ground, with slopey sidepull for left-hand and incut tooth for right-hand. Reachy and hard move up and right to the sidepull and up. Reach dependant start. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V5 | |||||
The Little Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★ Little Wing
Great. Sit start on small, steep pillar. Slap your way up, but don't use the boulder R for feet. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V5 | ★★ A Kick In The Teeth
The sit start of “A Kick In The Pants” is surprisingly good. FA: Madoc Sheehan | ||||
V5 | Effervescence Variant
Variant of “Effervescence”. Use the flake embedded in the ground and sit start on the jug to the left, then moving right into the slopey pocket mantle. FA: Madoc Sheehan | ||||
The Upper Terrace | |||||
V5 | A Mere Technicality
Link "Slippery When Wet" into "Cicada cravings", staying on the bottom half of the wall while you traverse. FA: SB, 2004 | ||||
V5 | ★★ The Eyeball
Mantle out of the middle or R of the scoop, starting from ground level on L arete, or alternatively making a launch for the lip. Classic. Main hold on lip broke March 2019 and grade is probably more in the V7 range now. FA: MS, 2001 | 4m | |||
V5 | Gritstone Dyno
Sit start on tiny boulder. Grizzly rock! FA: SB, 2006 | ||||
V5 | Skippy With a Smile
The wall just around L of the prow, and just R of the obvious curving flake. Start with high LH sidepull, and high and tiny RH crimp. Stack mats if you're shortish. FA: SB, 2003 | ||||
V5 | Jason's Problem Low Start
The low start to "Jason's Problem". Start low and crouched. FFA: SB | ||||
V5 | ★ Elegance Sit Start
Desperate and at times awkward sit start to Elegance. Good. FA: SB, 2004 | ||||
The Lower Terrace | |||||
V5 | Back In The Game
From good edge (with your right hand this time) go straight up via some tricky slopes. FA: Dan Radford, 2013 | ||||
V5 | Jenna Eliminate Variant
As per "Jenga” but avoiding the good edge. | ||||
V5 | Tall Arête
Start on boulder and lean out right onto arête. FA: Rob Saunders | ||||
V5 | Sydney Six
The steep sit-start using the big detached block for feet. Up and right to a high finish. "Sydney Six" as well as the two variants, "Sydney Six Point Five" and "Sydney Seven", can be finished at the obvious jug a few moves up, although it's better going to the top. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V5 | Rover's Rump
Do a sit-start to “Peter Pan’, but rather then finish up “Peter Pan”, traverse left to finish up “Wake Up Call”. Good and pleasant. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V5 | Peter Pan
Start just right of “Wake up Call”, off opposing side pulls, (left hand high, right hand low). Dynamically to top. Could be done any number of ways but was originally done by dynoing right-hand to the jug above your starting left-hand hold. Think happy thoughts. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V5 | ★ Free The Refugees
Sit or crouched start off small diagonal edges at the lip of a small undercut just left of the massive tree. Starts 1–2m left of the obvious root running down the overhang. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V5 | ★ More Mats Please
Short hard thin slab 1.5m right of “Mr Bastard”, and just left of hanging tree roots. High starting holds. FA: Madoc Sheehan | ||||
V5 | Balmy Palmy
Mantle the middle of the tiny overhang from a sit-start. Even more desperate than “Twisty Wristy”! FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V5 | False Pretences (low start)
Same as "False Pretences" but starting off lower holds (crouched start) for a hard problem. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | ||||
The Alley Way Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★ A Tick Ate My Spotter
The opposite arête and face, with the bad landing. Starts off the massive foothold, moving R to finish. Good, but scary. FA: MS, 2003 | ||||
V5 | Creaking Jug
Be careful on this one. Starts low at arete, on good LH edge, moving up to loose flake and the top. FA: MS, 2001 | ||||
The Castle | |||||
V5 | ★★ Etalon
Tough slab just to the right again. Follow the micro crimps. FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
The Cow Paddock | |||||
V5 | ★ The Merchant
Featured rib of holds up the slab. Footwork intensive. FA: Nick Larsen, 2004 | ||||
V5 | ★ The right cheek high start
Same as "The right cheek" but starting high with pads or blocks. | 3m | |||
V5 | Training Day
Start way around to the right and traverse left to the start of "Unnamed Traverse #1", and top out left. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V5 | ★ Nasty Knob
Sit start on the short uphill arete (below the obvious hanging knob) with right-hand sidepull and lower of the two left-hand slopers. Fun. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
The Snooze Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★ Blood SS
Sit-start to “Blood” Left hand on small triangular crimp on face right hand on arete rail feature. Pull on and move directly up onto jugs to finish. FA: Glen Hayford, 2023 | ||||
V5 | ★ Monster of Rock
Obvious sit-start under the hanging flake. Up and steeply traverse right along the lip, moving round the corner and then mantling off the final good holds about a meter before the tree. FA: Adrian Bautze Geue, 2001 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Insomnia
Sit-start on jugs moving left on slopers. Watch your back on the block! FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2013 | ||||
Middle Marsh | |||||
V5 | Destiny's Child
Starts 1.5m left of Nahaul, on small sidepulls. Up to the jug out right, and then up and left to mantle. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V5 | Too Many Slopers Direct
The direct sit-start of “Too Many Slopers”. FA: Alister Robertson | ||||
V5 | ★ Too Many Slopers
Starts 2m right of Nahaul, on and just left of arete. Standing start on bad slopers, and find a way to get your foot up onto the one good foothold FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | ||||
The Stack | |||||
V5 | ★ Karma Sutra
Tackles the rooflet straight on. From the starting jug move up right into the roof and straight up to the top. Classic fun! FA: Steve Baskerville, 2004 | ||||
V5 | Spaceman
Contrived face starting from 2 very small high crimps. Straight up, avoiding big holds to the left. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2004 |