South Vancouver Island Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. South Vancouver Island 534 routes in Region

13 14 7 25 22 23 26 21 1 15 3 11 16 10 6 4 18 2 8

1 Tolmie 2 Galloping Goose Corridor 3 Mt MacDonald 4 Sugarloaf 6 Fleming Beach 7 Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake) 8 East Sooke Park 10 Glen Lake Crag 11 Mt. Wells 13 Galiano Island 14 Boulders' Climbing Gym 15 Boulder House 16 Crag X indoor Rock Climbing Gym 18 Flea Beach 21 Francis King Wall 22 Pike Lake 23 Head Cut Off Cliff 25 Cordova Bay 26 Mt Doug

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.606695, -123.626163

description

Victoria, the capital of BC, and the surrounding area south of the Malahat. Includes the Juan de Fuca Provincial Park Area.

1.1. Tolmie 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 48.457674, -123.324199

summary

Really easy climbing, No Anchors though so its all very unprotected.

description

NO USABLE ANCHORS OR BOLTS ON THIS CRAG. One good 3-5 Meter crag with 2 cracks and one face with a slight bulge which contains a mix of crimps and sidepulls. 2 Rusted bolts atop this crag which appear to have been installed quite a while ago. There are holes with incomplete bolts drilled near these which are newer, but at the moment no complete useable bolts exist on this crag. Rock is fairly solid, with minimal choss.

access issues

May be legality issues regarding climbing due to the proximity to the city. Try when possible to minimize the noise and number of climbers. Police patrols frequent the upper parking lot near park closing times.

approach

Park at the lot at the very top of the hill, head straight down the hill. The grass and plant growth makes the first 3 meters or so of the walk in very treacherous. Once youve reached the flatter rocky areas below, the crag should be visible, or very close to visible. Facing out towards shelbourne street (Looking down the hill) the crag is to the right.

history

Due to the rusted bolts, One can assume this was climbed sometime in the past. No info known by poster, however I would guess that the UVIC climbing and mountaineering club had something to do with the bolting, given the proximity to the campus.

1.2. Galloping Goose Corridor 22 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 Roche Cove 2 Hissing Bull 3 Hummingbird Wall

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 48.369598, -123.615965

1.2.1. Roche Cove 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.371032, -123.623411

description

48.37110,-123.62320

1.2.2. Hissing Bull 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.368012, -123.613411

description

48.36791,-123.61326

1.2.3. Hummingbird Wall 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Top roping, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.367018, -123.603669

description

48.36675,-123.60335

1.3. Mt MacDonald 52 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.440189, -123.564416

summary

bomber rock nice walkup great warm up on approach

approach

Follow humpback to parking lot. Drive up until you see a small sign on the left. Follow access trail across creek and up on the other sie de walk along the creek to the left for a while until yoy hit a fork. Follow left for cliff base and right for summit hikes.

ethic

leave no trace

1.3.1. Main Wall 26 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

1.3.2. Cinema 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.3.3. summit trail 2 routes in Feature

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

on the far right side you can scramble up to the right then climb up a small ledge to the right walk up hill until you start to see anchors, if you hit the wire you went too far.

1.3.4. Far left 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.3.5. Salamander 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

1.3.6. left 0 routes in Area

1.3.7. right 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.4. Sugarloaf 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.415445, -123.602648

1.5. Ferry 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Fleming Beach 30 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 Fisherman's Wall 2 The Overhang 3 Main wall

Summary:

Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 48.420108, -123.410384

1.6.1. Fisherman's Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 48.420287, -123.410418

1.6.2. The Overhang 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Top roping and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 48.420188, -123.410544

1.6.3. Main wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 48.420008, -123.410378

1.7. Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake) 82 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.526538, -123.456723

summary

Boulder field oasis

description

Cyberia is likely the “premiere” bouldering destination in Victoria. It has a high concentration of quality problems, with a very short approach. Development started in the mid 2000’s around ‘04 or ‘05. One would think that given such a small area, most of the fine lines would have been climbed, but in the last year alone over 15 lines have been added to this area, and it seems there are still many lines left undone. The rock quality leaves some to be desired but it has a worse reputation than it deserves, and the rock on the problems in this guide (excluding the lines in the cave) is fairly good. Unlike the Duncan Boulders, or Squamish granite, it is very glassy and often low friction which creates an interesting style. Considering how few boulders there are in this area it is surprising how many quality lines there are, and being only 20 minutes from town, this area is hard to beat for short evening sessions.

You are climbing on W’SANEC land – respect that!

access issues

Watch for mountain bikers!! reports of head-on collisions and injuries

approach

Park at hartland bike park. walk down regional trail and take shock treatment to your left. follow the two carins about half way through shock treatment to the left from the parking lot and follow trail down turning right at the sight of the lake. follow the water the first set of boulders will be on your left. (48.526277, -123.457013)

where to stay

where ever! (parking closes just after sunset, (leave aquidate time to come back safely))

ethic

leave no trace as always, please minimize use of chalk bring crash matts and leave any community gear out of rain where you found it.

1.7.1. Sport cliff 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.526609, -123.456579

1.7.2. Cyberia Boulders 69 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

water at the parking lot along with a bathroom.

approach

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk/edit?usp=sharing

descent notes

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ieJob95IGgNQkCpK5_5aiCq97Ni-6ATs6rpPgtObCXk/edit?usp=sharing

1.8. East Sooke Park 28 routes in Crag

1 3 2

1 Tobasco Rock 2 Beechey Head 3 Mirkwood Forest

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.319944, -123.645102

1.8.1. Tobasco Rock 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.325849, -123.630134

summary

4 Routes around 8m each, bolted anchor stations at the top. SR to 3"

description

Cracks! A great area to practice your trad climbing with a comfortable spot to belay and hang out. Could also be a doable high-boulder for the "bolder" types

access issues

This area is located within East Sooke Park, the gates are open dawn until dusk

approach

From the parking lot follow the trail towards the ocean, when you get to the Gazebo at the T intersection of the trail head left towards the lookout "Crayke Point", about 5 minutes walking time from the Gazebo. As you start to ascend the steepest part of the trail up to the lookout, look left for the small subtle trail and the crag is in plain sight.

ethic

Leave No Trace

1.8.2. Beechey Head 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.314242, -123.653526

summary

Waves crashing behind you.

description

Overhanging cave start. Only six lines in the area. Hard climbing. Very rusty bolts. Look like they could use replacing.

approach

Take the interior trail to Beechey Head. Go up and over the area. Stay north of the 49th parallel monument. Follow the trail through the trees to a surge channel. Take care on the narrow ledge approaching the lines.

1.8.3. Mirkwood Forest 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.314867, -123.651190

summary

Easy access

description

Moderate climbing right off the trail.

approach

Follow the trail to Beachey Head from Aylard Farm. If you make it to the "Cabin Point" fork -- head back 50m.

1.8.4. The Coliseum 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

1.9. Sooke 0 routes in Crag

1.10. Glen Lake Crag 32 routes in Crag

1

1 Glen Lake Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.434483, -123.541192

1.10.1. Glen Lake Crag 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.434746, -123.540016

description

Introduction: The Glen Lake crag offers relatively easy access, close proximity to Greater Victoria, and caters to beginner and intermediate climbers with routes ranging from 5.6 - 5.11b, from low-angle to slightly overhanging with a couple overhanging boulder routes. It now offers a few multipitch options on the Karate Kid Walls. The view from the top, back towards Victoria, is spectacular. The rock is good quality weathered basalt – lots of friction and many edges and flakes. It is located 5 minutes’ drive from the Westshore Town Centre in Langford, or 15-20-minute drive from downtown Victoria.

Notes: • Hundreds of hours have been put in to the development of this crag. Yet, there are still plenty of undeveloped walls, ie. Black Beauty, at Glen Lake that we would love people to come out and develop. Our hope is that anyone wanting to put routes up here reaches out to us because we believe that we have a very good understanding of the area and could be of great help to you. • A helmet is suggested – the rock is great, but because the routes are new they still need some mileage. There is also a bit of loose rocks at the top, much like the South Cliffs of Mt. Wells. • The area is South East facing, and gets morning to mid-afternoon sun. • A lot of the routes dry quite quickly after rain. Especially the Upper Karate Kid Wall • The routes with a star beside their name, are the best in my opinion. • Pack it in, pack it out! Please pack out all trash and human (or dog) waste to leave the forest as pristine as possible.

For more info and a free guidebook find us on Facebook - Glen Lake Crag. https://www.facebook.com/groups/299312767070589/

access issues

Located near the border of the Mount Wells Regional Park. There is a fire hydrant near the road, please do not park within 5 metres of it.

approach

Location: Glen Lake Crag is located 10 kilometers west of Victoria. Current parking and access is easiest on the side of the Westshore Parkway. From Victoria, head North on TransCanada Highway #1 and turn left on to Westshore Parkway. Follow this road for about 3kms. You will continue straight through the first 2 roundabouts and at the 3rd roundabout, take the 1st exit and stay on Westshore Parkway. Reset your odometre and drive 1.4kms. You will arrive at the parking area when you see a fire hydrant on the right side of the road (see photo below), near the base of the trail. Please park here, but do not park within 5 metres of it. We’d like to keep this access open for all to enjoy!

Coordinates: 48.434353, -123.539344

Approach: Once you have found parking, look to the right of the fire hydrant and up the hill. Look for the trail entrance to the left of a small tree stump. The trail is located in a small ravine. Walk up this ravine for a minute until you come to a fork. You have to 2 options:

1. Heading left at the fork will direct you towards Umbrage Wall, Dirt Stamp Wall, or Shake a Flake Wall. After 2 minutes walking, you will come to a second fork on the trail. Turn right to get to the Umbrage Wall. This is the first and lowest wall on the trail, and is mostly shaded by Maple Trees. To get to Dirt Stamp Wall keep left on the trail, heading towards the left side of the crag, until you find a trail that cuts right, up the rocks (see photo ). Continue up and right to the base of Karate Kid Wall or you can even access the top of Umbrage Wall from here. If you continue up left after you scramble up the rocky path, you will see Shake a Flake Wall.

2. Heading right at the first fork and walking for 5 minutes will take you to the Lower Karate Kid Wall. To access the Upper Karate Kid Wall continue walking the base of the lower wall climber’s right. Follow the base of the rock until it starts heading uphill and takes you to the top of the crag. Cut left across the top of the crag to access the top of Upper Karate Kid Wall.

ethic

Pack it in and pack it out. Be respectful of hikers and other user groups.

history

A few trad routes and aid lines were put up in the 1990's. Then in 2015, two local climbers started the huge undertaking of turning it in to the crag it is today.

1.11. Mt. Wells 89 routes in Crag

12 5 1 3 4 10 2 6

1 Prisoner Wall 2 Nature calls wall 3 Main wall 4 Upper main wall 5 Pancake Flake 6 South Cliff 10 Fire Wall 12 La Discotheque

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.436072, -123.555397

summary

Trail Rating: Challenging Size: 121.07 hectares Location: Langford Established: 1994

description

Mt Wells is one of the most popular areas in Victoria. The Approaches are short, and the rock fairly bomber. With the introduction of the hammer drill in the mid-'90s there was a surge of new routes put up. Now, most of the area is sport climbs, although there's still plenty of trad routes for the adventurer.

access issues

No fires are permitted on mt wells. Leave no trace. Helmets must be worn as it was identified in the parks risk assessment. the trail to secret cliffs is private property owned by TFL please be respectful.

approach

From the Mt Wells Regional Parking lot drive approximately 800m down Humpback road to the pull-off on the Eastside. Hike into the forest following the well-built trail. When you reach the fork in the trail, the left will take you to the Far Far left cliffs, The right will take you to Prisoner wall, Toilet wall, Cooked Goose, Pancake corner, and the South Cliffs

where to stay

Langford BC, Victoria BC, West shore, Sooke

ethic

Please park perpendicular to the road to maximize parking spots. before altering any existing routes, please ask permission of the FA party. Helmets are a must at mt wells as rockfall is a regular occurrence

1.11.1. Prisoner Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.438372, -123.559902

1.11.2. Nature calls wall 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.438086, -123.559611

description

The big daunting face right above the big handline. you will see it on the way to southcliffs.

where to stay

Langford BC

ethic

Helmets!

history

Historically known as Toilet walls. renamed spring 2021 originally called south main wall in the late 90's Climbed originally as an AID WALL

1.11.3. Main wall 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.438314, -123.559647

history

Originally called crooked goose wall. Renamed to Main wall.

1.11.4. Upper main wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.438266, -123.559472

1.11.5. Pancake Flake 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Aid climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.438523, -123.559516

description

This Cliff is to the left of Cooked Goose cliff, walk below the large aid roof to the large flake.

approach

From the main parking follow the path up past Prisoner Wall (Right at the fork) and up the fixed ropes. once at the top of the ropes make a left turn past Toilet Wall, walk about 100m past Cooked Goose area to Pancake Flake

1.11.6. South Cliff 21 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 48.435818, -123.558645

1.11.7. Secret Cliff 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

1.11.8. Cave 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

summary

A neglected crag, not much known. (Please update if you know more)

1.11.9. Big Ass Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

Small wall off the trail to the south cliffs (Plus some stragglers)

1.11.10. Fire Wall 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 48.438097, -123.558018

1.11.11. Hidden Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Southwest of the Fire Wall 60m across a gulley (Look for anchors)

1.11.12. La Discotheque 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.438546, -123.557488

1.11.13. Lower left 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

approach

turn left at first Y in path from parking lot up and left big slab you can see from the parking lot.

1.12. Mill Hill 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.13. Galiano Island 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.898546, -123.400593

summary

Sandstone climbing and bouldering, lots of undeveloped route potential.

description

Most climbing is located around the Montague Provincial Park area. There is a crag which runs along the right side of the the road as you drive into the park, about 20 Meters into the forest. Lots of Bouldering in the forest as well.

access issues

Provincial park and camping area. There is parking, and it is near enough to the Sturdies Bay ferry terminal that bike/ walking access is also feasable.

approach

Drive into Montague Provincial Park, walk into the woods to the right of the road.

where to stay

Camping available in the Park

1.14. Boulders' Climbing Gym 56 routes in Gym

4

4 Big Gym.

Summary:

Top roping, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.577970, -123.431552

summary

13,000 square foot facility is home to one of Canada's Highest leads.

description

1627 Stellys Crossroad Road

Victoria

British Columbia V8M 1S8 Canada

http://climbtheboulders.com/

call: (250) 544-0310

approach

please park in the parking lot in front of the school. walk down the fire lane following the boulders climbing gym signs

history

Known as "The Boulders", the Boulders Climbing Gym is operated by a not-for-profit society that has been supporting youth and disability programs since 2005. The facility includes 60ft overhung walls and a 15m speed wall. It is one of two facilities in North America capable of hosting the IFSC International Federation of Sport Climbing's World Youth Championship, which was held at The Boulders in August 2013. Over 90 participants in after-school programs make use of the gym, as does the public and Stelly's 100+member student climbing academy.

1.14.1. The Cage! 14 routes in Gym

Summary:

All Top roping

summary

Ring the bell!

description

Small gym past the red wall training area.

Originally coined the cage due to it being outside in the past.

1.14.2. The red wall. 3 routes in Gym

Summary:

Rock climbing and Traversing

description

This area is full of hang-boards and lots of footholds.

1.14.3. Small Gym. 13 routes in Unknown

Summary:

All Top roping

description

This gym mainly focuses on Bouldering 20+ problems. there are a few top ropes here.

1.14.4. Big Gym. 24 routes in Gym

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.577703, -123.431755

description

This area established back in 2008 is home to many great leads.

1.14.5. Studio. 2 routes in Gym

Summary:

All Rock climbing

description

Every gym needs it's warm up area! (warm up, Cool Down, Yoga, Olympic rings, hemp rope, calisthenics.

1.15. Boulder House 0 routes in Gym

summary

Climbing at BoulderHouse is designed around a set of 8 climbing circuits. Each circuit includes 5 to 6 problems and is designed to provide climbers with a varied set of challenges from technical slab climbing to powerful overhangs and everything in between.

By encouraging our community to progress through each complete circuit, our vision is to help every climber, at every level, develop a well-rounded set of skills. To keep you motivated and challenged in new ways, we change the circuits weekly. From our beginner yellow circuit to the advanced pink circuit, there is something for everyone.

description

2829 Quesnel St

Victoria

British Columbia Canada

https://www.facebook.com/boulderhouseclimbing

https://boulderhouse.ca/

call: (778) 265-9342

1.15.1. zero Degree Vertical wall 0 routes in Unknown

1.15.2. 15 degree slanty wall 0 routes in Unknown

1.15.3. 15 degree overhang 0 routes in Unknown

1.15.4. 35 degree overhang 0 routes in Unknown

description

this is the center area that is overhanging

1.15.5. 55 degree corner 0 routes in Unknown

description

this is the V2+ zone

1.15.6. deviation overhang 1 0 routes in Unknown

description

first corner of overhang towards desk

1.15.7. deviation overhang 2 0 routes in Unknown

description

second deviation facing the stairs

1.15.8. Workout area (training zone) 0 routes in Unknown

description

this area features hang boards and weights

1.16. Crag X indoor Rock Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

341 John St

Victoria

British Columbia Canada

https://www.cragx.ca/

call: (250) 383-4628

1.17. Otter point 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.18. Flea Beach 6 routes in Area

1

1 Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.381754, -123.931013

access issues

Check the tide times before you decide to make a trip out here.

1.18.1. Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.381757, -123.931014

1.19. Sombrio Beach 16 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.19.1. Beach Cave 16 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.19.2. Sea Stack 0 routes in Boulder

1.20. Millstream 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.21. Francis King Wall 13 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.489348, -123.446019

1.22. Pike Lake 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.492825, -123.461307

1.23. Head Cut Off Cliff 34 routes in Area

1 2 3

1 Head Cut Off Cliff 2 Hundred Acre Wood 3 Body Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.491962, -123.462174

summary

Head Cut Off Cliff Bouldering Zone

1.23.1. Head Cut Off Cliff 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.493058, -123.464843

description

Head Cut Off Cliff Boulder

48°29'35.1"N 123°27'53.5"W

1.23.2. Hundred Acre Wood 17 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.492660, -123.463312

1.23.3. Body Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.490804, -123.460562

description

Body Boulder

48°29'26.9"N 123°27'37.9"W

1.24. Scafe Hill 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.25. Cordova Bay 15 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.506965, -123.351527

description

Offers great bouldering problems ranging from V2 to V10

approach

Be respectful when parking, it is a residential area. Drive along Cordova Bay road and turn onto Timber lane. Turn left onto Timber place and find a spot to park. Head down the trail that leads down to the beach. At the bottom of the stairs, turn right and walk down the beach. The first lines you come to are located on an overhanging cliff next to a tall boulder.

1.26. Mt Doug 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.490341, -123.354653

summary

Small bluff off of Blenkinsop road. Offers two boulder problems and a sport climb.

approach

Park on Blenkinsop road across from the Galey Egg Farm. Start hiking up the Mercer trail and take an immediate left onto an unmarked trail. Walk along the trail until you see the small crag.

1.26.1. Boulder Problems 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

approach

To the left of the crag/cliff

1.26.2. Small Crag 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

One sport climb exists on this wall

1.27. Cougar Caves 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Aid climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

approach

Park at bulter main gate and walk past bone yard and across the creek/bridge then trend left look for flagging on the right and follow defined trail to crag.

ethic

This area is all old school Trad and some mixed lines with drytooling and OldSchool AID