A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Noah Boudreau-Richard
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Greater Sudbury
54 in Crag
- 1.1. Mackynen 6 in Field
- 1.2. Crown Ridge 0 in Boulder
- 1.3. Ethier 0 in Boulder
- 1.4. Harvey's 0 in Cliff
- 1.5. Bethel Lake 8 in Cliff
- 1.6. Cherry Rock (Original) / Mount Doom 11 in Cliff
- 1.7. Timberwolf 12 in Cliff
- 1.8. Echo Crag 17 in Crag
- 1.9. ARC Climbing 0 in Gym
- 2. Index by grade
1. Greater Sudbury 54 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 46.510430, -80.991817
description
A few small cliffs and boulders within the greater Sudbury area.
access issues
In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/
The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .
1.1. Mackynen 6 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 46.352001, -80.818701
description
Bouldering near the intersection of Makynen Road and Estaire Road, just south and east of Sudbury. (Take 69 east out of town.)
20+ problems, V0-V6+.
There are two areas, one east of Estaire road, and the other west.
Do not go onto the land to the north-east of the intersection, this is private land owned by someone who does not want climbers.
approach
East side: walk 30m down Estaire road, to where a small cliff starts, which continues away (basically perpendicular to the road) for a few hundred meters.
West side: cross Estaire road and the ditch, walk west across the fields keeping left to avoid the creek, and few 100 meters in you should find a boulder field.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Power and rage
Start on the right hand crimp and left hand sloper with marginal feet. Make a powerful move up to gain the arete, and work your way up using crimps out left. The top out is a surprise crux after the first two moves. Bring some pads and a good spotter. Unlike many of the prob- lems in this area, this one is usually dry. This one is five star problem anywhere! | V9 | ||||
| 2 |
★★ Baby Commando
Same as Commando, but start on the big jug on the right and throw directly to the sloper | V4 | ||||
| 3 |
★★★ Commando
Sit start on some ledgy holds and move up to some painful crimps, throw right to big ledges and work your way across to some jugs. Setup and make a power- ful move up to a sloper, make a delicate match and move up on a crimp and make a highstep for the topout. Classic problem and a wicked lat workout! | V6 | ||||
| 4 |
★★ Cleaning the Crack
Sit start in some decent holds and work your way up the crack on continually better holds. Move up onto some jugs and finish out on a big ledge with shrubbery. Classic sudbury boulder line | V2 | ||||
| 5 |
One tree hill
The easiest problem at Mac East, sit start on a good ledge. Using a sloper up and left, and a side pull out right, work up to the big rail and top out on some good slopey jugs. For the down climb either work left and down some lichen covered slab, or easier is just downclimbing using the tree as a back rest if needed. | V1 | ||||
| 6 |
★★ Slapping Papaya
Named for a style of Cuban climb- ing, sit start on a good incut hold, and throw right for the big ledge. Work your way up with a crimp out left and crimp up high and right. Setup and shoot for the V-notch, stick and top out. | V6 | ||||
1.2. Crown Ridge 0 routes in Boulder
description
A small cliff band just off Crown Ridge road.
5 or so problems.
approach
Near the east end of Crown Ridge road, park and hike south/east a short distance through the bush to this small cliff band.
1.3. Ethier 0 routes in Boulder
description
A small boulder field near Ethier sand & gravel. The access to and climbability of this small cliff may change as the new highway 69 route goes through very close to this cliff.
5-10 problems, V1-V5+.
approach
Park near the corner of Estaire road and Wanup Pit drive/entrance to Ethier sand & gravel. Walk about 10 minutes up the drive/entrance, until you encounter a small band of cliffs on the left.
As of 2012 (or thereabouts), this may involve crossing the new route of highway 69, or at least, the construction zone for it. While construction is ongoing, this may make access impossible. After construction, this looks to be north of 69, and access may depend on whether or not Wanup road gets an overpass.
1.4. Harvey's 0 routes in Cliff
description
A small (25') cliff close to central Sudbury, it is visible from Kingsway near the intersection with Bancroft Dr, and apparently is behind where a Harvey's restaurant used to be (back before 2007). Now (2010 or so) there is apparently an Enterprise car rental place as the closest land mark.
7 climbs, 5.8-5.12, about 7m tall.
Some further information might be available at: http://www.sudburyclimbing.com/harveys.html
approach
Head into the woods behind the Enterprise lot, following the intermittent trail (might be flagged) to the cliff band.
There are bolts on top of the cliff for setting up top-ropes, one sport route, and a couple trad-leadable routes.
1.5. Bethel Lake 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.468924, -80.963588
description
A small cliff band running down into the water of Bethel Lake, near Laurentian University. Generally quite steep to overhanging.
8 or so climbs, 5.6-5.11+, 7-12m.
Generally bolted anchors on top for TRing, for some of the wet starts, either lower down the climb, or wade to the start if you don't mind wet shoes.
More information may be available from: http://www.sudburyclimbing.com/bethellake.html
approach
Park about half way along South Bay Road, then walk eastwards towards the lake.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ The shire | 5.11a | 18m, 4 | |||||
| 2 |
Water World
the left most route over the water | 5.11 | ||||||
| 3 |
Starfish
4 bolts. climb up to the overhanging chunk of rock, pull some difficult moves up to a good ledge and continue up through easier climbing. Varitaon 12a — start traversing from shore, and work your way into the route. Difficulty varies depending on water level, with higher water level turns into a pump fest pulling through to the second bolt. | 5.11 C | 4 | |||||
| 4 |
★ Ledge Hopper
3 bolts. Climb up fairly big moves between good ledges, then work up some crimpy holds to the top. Don’t bail out right to maintain the difficulty. | 5.10 B | 3 | |||||
| 5 |
★ The Hardest Warmup
3 bolts. Start up what seems like an easy climb, unƟl the first move, get stumped for a few minutes then conƟnue up. No maƩer how many Ɵmes I do this route, at the start of the season I always forget the first few moves, and it becomes far harder than it should be. | 5.9 | 3 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Bad Beta
Start up into the corner and try an reach the big triangular jug, then climb up the corner to the top. Beginners usually end up geƫng terrible advice on how to get up this route, as everybody climbs this route very differently. | 5.8 | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Route 7
Climb up the crack on the right, mostly good protecton for leading | 5.9 | 2 | |||||
| 8 |
Highball Low Number
The farthest right route, its short and bouldery | 5.10 | ||||||
1.6. Cherry Rock (Original) 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 46.496466, -81.031992
description
Cherry Rock (Doom) probably is the most extensive climbing in the city of Sudbury. It is gneiss mostly covered with a black patina, from the sulfur dioxide pollution of yesteryear. It is located near the corner of Elm Street and Big Nickel Mine drive. Routes range from 15m-25m, with some bouldering along the left edge as the cliff drops in height.
Top of cliff access is easy up the (climber's) right side, and there are a few bolted anchors up top for setting top-ropes. Other climbs may require trad anchors, are there a good number of deep cracks up top suitable for these, too.
The name comes from the black rock, which you approach across a marsh, with a chimney belching smoke and industrial operations in the background.
The cliff is obvious and visible from the road.
More information may be available at: http://sudburyclimbing.com/wp/?page_id=32
Cliff was originally developed and bolted in 1994 by Peter Drzymala, Rob Paul, and Faye Petrie.
approach
Park on the side of Elm St/Highway 35 about half way between Big Nickel Mine Dr and Lasalle blvd. Hike down the embankment and across the marsh/swamp. (Unless late in a dry summer, this will likely be wet to very wet.) There is a bit of a stepping stone trail across, but it can be tricky to find, especially when aproaching the cliff.
descent notes
Walk off Climber's left.
    |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Sam and Frodo go walking
Climb the easy angled face with the jagged crack in it up to ledges, go right or left around the small roof, then up to the bolts at the top left. | 5.5 | 15m | |||||
| 2 |
Sam and Frodo go hiking
A variant start to "Sam and Frodo go walking", start on the crack around the corner to the right, pull up to the horizontal and (hand) traverse right to join the main route, and of course, not dodge the small roof. | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
| 3 |
The Shire
Climb the cracked slabs near the center of the cliff, angling up to the right. | 5.4 | 20m | |||||
| 4 |
Cirith Ungol
Climb the corner up onto the ledge, then follow the corner upwards. | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Dr. Tongue's Cherry Elixir
(As of 2012) the only bolted route on Cherry Rock, and the toughest route there. Climb the thin slab up to the ledge 20m up. Set: Peter Drzymala, 1994 FFA: Peter Drzymala, 1994 FA: Peter Drzymala, 1994 | 5.10d | 20m, 4 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Dr. Tongue's Cherry Elixir - Alternate Start
Start in the crack to the right of the Dr. Tongue's Cherry Elixir then cross to the left at the first bolt. Follow the rest of Dr. Tongue's Cherry Elixir | 5.10c | 20m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 |
Minas Tirith
Start on the left-most crack, eventually switching to another crack further left, up to the ledge 20m up, then up a final crack the last 5m to the (bolted) anchors. (Not a good TR from the anchors, as they are right of most of the route.) | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
| 8 |
Minas Anor
Start on the left crack then instead of going left (for Minas Tirith) follow the central crack up to the anchor. | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
| 9 |
Minas Morgul
Start up the crack on the right, and continue up the crack system to the top anchors (shared with "Minas Tirith"). As this climb is more directly below the anchors, it is a more comfortable top-rope. | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
| 10 |
Erebor
Climb the slab just left of Isengard. Stay left of the big obvious hold. Try to avoid the holds from Isengard. | 5.10a | 25m | |||||
| 11 |
★ Isengard
At the far right of main cliff, just left of the obvious large detached block, climb the slabs. | 5.6 | 23m | |||||
1.7. Timberwolf 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.544804, -80.937984
description
This area is behind hole 17 on the Timberwolf golf course, though it may be in the Maley conservation area. The cliff is about 15m tall, with anchors atop a few routes.
~11 routes, 5.5-5.12, 15m.
More information may be available at: http://www.sudburyclimbing.com/timberwolf.html
approach
Drive north on Barrydowne road past the intersection with Maley drive and park at the start of the gravel road. Walk up the gravel to an obvious trail on the right, follow this to the gold course cart track, along this for a bit (give right of way to golfers) and then hang a left to the cliff when it comes in sight.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
No Name
First bolted route on climbers left of the entire cliff. | 5.4 | 10m, 4 | |||
| 2 |
No Named
Climbs the left arrete behind a flake. Top Rope only with anchors at the top. | 5.6 | 15m | |||
| 3 |
★ Unknown
First line of bolts on this side of the cliff face. Crux is between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Rappel rings inaccessible from top of cliff FFA: Marco Faladore, 2013 | 5.11a | 12m, 4 | |||
| 4 |
Unknown.
Second bolted line from the left on the main face. Can be climbed in two variations. Stick to the face only (10c). Or reach around on the right for (10b) | 5.10b/c | 15m, 5 | |||
| 5 |
Just Another Sport Route
Second bolted line left from the shelf. Start from the ground left of the shelf and follow bolts to the top | 5.9 | 15m, 6 | |||
| 6 |
★ Sport
Start on the ground just left of the shelf, gain the shelf and follow bolts to the top. | 5.10a | 15m, 3 | |||
| 7 |
★★ Traditional
Climb the very obvious left facing flake and crack system to the top. Old pin and piton can be found, suggest not to clip. | 5.7 | 15m | |||
| 8 |
Unknowwn
Use the anchors at the top, just left of Chickadee. From the bottom climb straight up to the roof and through to the top. | 5.12b | 15m | |||
| 9 |
★★ Chickadee
First bolted line below/to the right of the only obvious roof. Crux is just below the roof moving right following the bolts. Climbing eases off above this. | 5.9 | 15m, 6 | |||
| 10 | ★★ Parallel pleasure | 5.9 | 15m, 6 | |||
| 11 |
Trad
Start just left of the last bolted line on the cliff face. Obvious ramp going up towards the right. Goes up a a now right facing flake system. Follow this to the top. | 5.10a | 15m | |||
| 12 | ★★ Route 3 | 5.10c | 15m, 4 | |||
1.8. Echo Crag 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 46.427937, -81.189437
description
Nice, clean rock with potential for some of Sudbury's hardest sport lines.
approach
15min
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Ceasers on The Patio
Start in little dihedral then climb the obvious moves straight up, don't cheat by standing on the ledge way left. Pumpy and awesome! FFA: Andrew Worley | 5.11b | 11m, 3 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Dodo's Delight
Short, obvious middle line follow up the thin crack past two bolts, make an odd transition to an awkward finger jam and crux to then solid holds to the top. FA: Connor Watson, 5 Nov 2016 | 5.12a | 9m, 4 | |||||
| 3 |
Wet and Wild American Summer
Climb up chossy looking features. Furthest right route on the small west wall. FA: Andrew worley | 5.10c | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Ain't no Cplus
Start up some easy ledges to the first bolt, and make some tricky face moves to the top | 5.10a | 16m, 5 | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ Steele Barr
Start up fairly easy climbing in big side pulls until things start to get hard. Then make some powerful and technical moves with atrocious feet through the next few bolts FA: Allan Barr, 16 Apr 2016 | 5.12d | 16m, 7 | |||||
/5d/90/5d902a0f53fc32fadb0df9cad80b153eb4f24e3c) /6d/7d/6d7d155035cb9559b6072842424da2242b9ec6c7) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Agent Ornge
The first route on the cliff, and a must-climb. Named for local climber Marco Foladore who spotted the cliff while flying for Ornge. Climbs the obvious, clean dihedral. Gear to 3". FA: Dave & Kielyn Marrone | 5.10b | 14m | |||||
| 7 |
The Eviscerator
FA: Travis, Sep 2015 | 5.11d | 20m, 6 | |||||
| 8 |
★★★ Battle of the Buldge
Climbs the face and arrete immediately to the right of Agent Ornge. FA: Andrew Worley Set: Marco Foladore | 5.11c | 15m | |||||
| 9 |
★★★ Little Miss
Climbs the next obvious dihedral, 10m to the right of Agent Ornge. Named after Kielyn "Little Miss" Marrone for her patient belays on this project. Start up an awkward off-width to a ledge; continue up the corner with lots of stemming opportunities before the final roof crux. Gear to 1", RPs FA: Dave Marrone | 5.10d | 16m | |||||
| 10 |
Lazy Beaver
Climb the same start as Little miss onto the boulder, up the left side of the face clipping around the corner, traverse right and up the face FFA: Marco Foladore | 5.11a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 11 | ★★ Game of Thorne's | 5.10c | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 12 |
★★★ New Kid on The Block
contrived but fun. furthest on the right climb some powerful moves to a ledge, if you climb the pillar climbs at 5.10c, if you dont use the pillar climbs at 11a go straight up and pull the lip. FFA: Hudson M | 5.10c - 11a | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 13 |
★ Dirty Tequila
FA: Marco Foladore | 5.9 | 7 | |||||
| 14 |
Suck it up Buttercup
FA: Marco Foladore | 5.10c | ||||||
| 15 |
★ Friat
One of the first routes on the upper deck. Don't worry, just "Friat!". FA: Mat Masin & Dave Marrone | 5.7 | 5m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 16 |
★ Hazlenut
One of the first two routes on the upper deck. Climbs the obvious offwidth. FA: Chris Lill & Kielyn Marrone | 5.7 | 5m | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Pound of flesh
Off width crack on right side of upper deck Set: Ben Kovala, 7 Nov 2015 FA: Cole lowen, 8 Nov 2015 | V2 | 5m | |||||
