Routes as sport in Kingston Mills

Runs left of the arete that is left of Kiddie Corner.

Climb the slabby left edge of the main wall. Mostly thin face climbing.

(Watch for fall potential at 2nd bolt. Might want to sling tree after 3rd bolt. Or, bring a few pieces for the easy climbing to the top of the cliff.)

*NB Many climbers go off route by moving too far right and using the arete, follow the bolt line.

Start down right, head up, traverse left, then follow the bolt line for as long as you can before cutting back right to the arete. Climb over the bulge to the anchor.

5.8ish if you follow the bolt line (it's easier than the '5.9s' Synergy and Fred's). You can soften the grade by starting in the open book or cutting right to the arete sooner.

The obvious, chalky route about 20' left of Fred's Folly. A sweet route that climbs up the overhang. The little tree is not in. Contrary to popular belief, you're in its way.

This is a popular route, and many of the holds rarely see any rain fall. As a result, the bottom 2/3rds of the route suffers from some greasy/polished holds that may make the grade feel harder.

Two glue-ins at the top form the anchor.

Be aware of the rope hungry crack if you decide to top rope the route.

A wonderful, steep technical climb on small holds, with a dyno in the middle of the climb. May be 5.12 if you can't reach the good crimp.

The only sport route on the Lichen Wall. Fixed anchor above, but the rap rings and chains never seem to last long on this route. Plan to walk-off.