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Super Solenoid Area

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Description

This is the first clear area west of the 'The Pinnacle Area'. There is a large ledge half way up which is accessible from a scramble behind the pinnacle.

Access issues inherited from Rattlesnake Point

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

Routes

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Grade Route

Warning Rock: Loose rock

1 5.7
2 5.10d

Starts 2m left of "So Good". Climbs the face with the anchors over the big ledge. Continue past the anchors to climb a 5.10d.

Continues past the anchors of 'Treed Lightly'.

Starts 2m left of "Be a Hoot..", starts up the obvious flakes and cracks to a ledge. Continue up along a right facing crack and small roof to great face climbing and a second ledge. Another short section of face climbing will bring you to the anchors.

use 2 alpine draws to reduce drag!

Start at number 17.

Start at number 18. Climb the crack over the bulge to a small ledge. Follow the crack system to a small ledge below a slanting roof. Pull the roof and finish through the trees.

The bolts left of Thank Mr. Goose.

Left of the Fire Escape

Start at number 19.

  1. Climb the groove to a ledge then left and up to an open book.

  2. Continue up on the right of the open book to an overhang. Finish is through the trees above and to the right.

FA: Alf Muehlebauer

Climbs the obvious crack on the right side of the ledge up to a piton. Follow the crack left and up.

Starts the same as 'Super Solenoid'. Go straight up from the piton instead of following the crack.

Starts at number 19 or number 20.

Start at number 21. Short blocky climb that ends at the gap between the pinnacle by the stairs and the main cliff. Walk off behind the pinnacle back to the base of the cliff.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 26 Apr
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