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Sugarloaf Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Bryan Senger Brenton Searle "B" James Hardy Chad Andrew Vit Grand Chung Chris Whelan

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Sugarloaf 24 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.645566, -123.205682

access issues

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

inherited from Squamish
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Just Filler

five or six precise technical moves. Finish by moving around the corner and back up. Direct finish is 11a

FA: Jack Fieldhouse, Adrian Geue & Gabe Geue, 2002

5.10c Sport 8m, 3
2 Howe, It Goes

FA: Jack Fieldhouse, Adrian Geue & Gaba Geue, 2002

5.12a Sport 8m, 3
3 Tricky Dicky

Follow the flake just right of Howe, It Goes. No bolts at the top

FA: Bob Milward & Joe Buszowski, 1983

5.10c Trad 8m
4 Orphan / Minutia

Ramp, flake, stem, overhang corner, step out, lyback. everything in 12m

FA: Howie Richardson & Kevin McLane, 1978

5.8 Trad 12m
5 Block and Tackle

FA: Perry Beckham & Dean Hart, 1982

5.11b Trad 18m
6 Holiday in Cambodia

FA: Bob Milward & Scott Young, 1983

5.8 Trad 15m
7 Howe Boy Meets Girl

Climb the corner crack right of Holiday in Cambodia. Anchor to the trees.

FA: Elizabeth Patterson & Michelle Black, 2006

5.9 Trad 15m
8 Granola Angst

FA: Larry Ostrander, 1988

5.10b Trad 10m
9 Measles and Pestilence

FA: Harry Van Oort & Rachel McGhee, 1995

5.11c Trad 15m
10 Ignorance is Bliss

FA: Steve Townsend & Andrew Boyd, 2001

5.12c Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 The Mechanic 5.7 Trad 20m
12 Flat Battery

Climb the very obvious and large crack on the left side of the wall. Anchor is the same as The Mechanic.

5.4 Trad 20m
13 Power Smart 5.8 Trad 20m
14 Magnet 5.4 Trad 20m
15 Jump Start 5.6 Trad 22m
16 Little Spark 5.4 Trad 22m
17 Lieback Crack

Large wide corner. No anchor at the top.

FA: Les McDonald, 1965

5.7 Trad 20m
18 Mandela

FA: Kevin McLane & Joe Turley, 1986

5.11c Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 Thriller off the Void

Technical thin crack. No anchor at the top.

FA: Royal Robins & Jim Sinclair, 1971

FFA: Dave Lane, 1978

5.11b Mixed trad 20m, 3
20 California Reamin'

FA: Colin Moorhead, 2010

5.11d Trad 15m
21 Hot Wire

FA: Tim Holwill, 1985

5.10c Trad 18m
22 Heavy Charge 5.11b Trad 15m
23 Stairway

Start up the ramp then move left onto the steep wall. Use positive holds to continue upwards. No anchor bolts at the top.

FA: John Coope & Karl Winter, 1962

5.7 Trad 15m
24 Diamonds & Spades 5.4 Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.4 Diamonds & Spades Trad 15m
Flat Battery Trad 20m
Little Spark Trad 22m
Magnet Trad 20m
5.6 Jump Start Trad 22m
5.7 Lieback Crack Trad 20m
Stairway Trad 15m
The Mechanic Trad 20m
5.8 Holiday in Cambodia Trad 15m
Orphan Trad 12m
Power Smart Trad 20m
5.9 Howe Boy Meets Girl Trad 15m
5.10b Granola Angst Trad 10m
5.10c Hot Wire Trad 18m
Just Filler Sport 8m, 3
Tricky Dicky Trad 8m
5.11b Block and Tackle Trad 18m
Heavy Charge Trad 15m
Thriller off the Void Mixed trad 20m, 3
5.11c Mandela Trad 20m
Measles and Pestilence Trad 15m
5.11d California Reamin' Trad 15m
5.12a Howe, It Goes Sport 8m, 3
5.12c Ignorance is Bliss Trad 10m
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