Routes as sport in Cuba

Start left of the block and follow the tufa line up to an anchor just right of the big stalactite. Great steep climbing on mostly good holds and a cool move over to the final tufa, one of the best lines in Viñales.

Climb the obvious guppies on the steep wall on the right hand side interior of cave, just before the big tufa. The overhanging section is followed by nice face climbing.

Starts left of the tunnel entrance and right of the next alcove, left of the tree. Big tufas and stalactites lead the way to the top ledge. Shares anchor with Chao Pescao. Great warm-up.

(While it may not sound like a lot of bolts, they are where you need them and the falls are generally pretty clean. So a reasonable climb even if this is the opposite of a warm-up.)

This route goes up the white pinchy tufas at the end of the cave to a first anchor on a big ledge. There are 2 more bolts that link this route to the anchor of the one further right. Shares last bolt and anchor with On Belay Hombre. Pinchy tufas down low lead to pockets.

Shares frist 2 bolts with Tarentola but then climbs staright up on the face.

Follow the crack to the right and then climb straight up. Shares first 2 bolts with Chan Chan de Ilusiones.

Climb the bolt line up the middle of the face, initially trending leftwards. Gets sharp in the final 1/3.

The first route established at this crag. Climb the first big column to a ledge, then follow the easy ramp left for a bit, before topping out straight up. 2-3 long draws nice for below the anchor.

Bolts with shackles (one worn and supplemented with a biner).

An absolutely awesome route with great exposure and rock structures you have to see to believe!

Access the start by hiking up to the cave. It is best to prepare in the cave and leave your stuff there. Scramble up the ledge on polished rock on the left of the cave and look for the tufa column on your right.

As of May-2019 only the first 2 pitches have been rebolted - as with all routes at the Costanera watch the bolts if they are not re-bolted glue-ins!!

• Pitch 1: 9 bolts; Start right of the tufa column and up into the cave to exit it to the left. Follow great holds to an anchor right of the "Mucho Pumpito Ledge" - a very comfortable belay for pitch 2. The anchor consists of 3 unlinked glue-ins.

• Pitch 2: 11 bolts plus a couple of slings; follow the super exposed overhanging arete out right on increadible holds for 30m of pure fun. A no-hands rest at the tufa in the middle might reduce the pump. A sports anchor is located on top of the ledge.

• Pitch 3: A short pitch out right (the original last pitch). Many people do not climb this pitch, if you do, lower down to the anchor and rap from there to the ground. An alternative to the left is available as well (see "Pssst!" pitch 3).

Start right of the broken tufa on the grey slab and go up straight. Anchor is on top left of tree. Shares first bolt with Guajiras. Climbs easy on mostly sharp rock to a crux high up.

Start on the boulder and climb the face to reach the big flake. Layback up on poor feet to reach the tufa and follow the slab to a final overhanging section. The last 2 bolts climb very sharp rock.

Start on the boulder and climb up just right of the big tufa. Pass left of the roof and follow rhe crack to the face and anchor.

The first route on the left wall after entering the cave. Start two metres from the downclimb and head straight up to the ledge with trees on it (anchors behind). Holds are small and footwork is precise. Crux is just below the ledge.

P1- 5 - 10m, 5 bolts – Sometimes called La Cuevita because of the small cave. Climb to the small cave and ledge. The cave is called Cueva Lechuza and has good views of the valley. P2- 6c+ – 20m, 6 bolts – trend left P3- 5 – 15m, 5 bolts – Best if linked with pitch 2. Watch out for wasps behind… Overall, best done if the leader is lowered back to the second anchor and belays the second up the whole route, before being lowered back to the second anchor. Abseil from second anchor to ground.

This route climbs the first big tufa on the right wall. Continue staright up once on top of the tufa. If you climb left you are on Chipojo. Nice tufa climbing down low and sharper water runnels higher up.

Same start as Puro Cubano but head right after bolt 2.

Starts just right of the big tree that follows the cliff. Excellent climbing on big holds to an anchor on the right flake.

Climb the second big column toward the ledge, trending right before you reach it. Once on the ledge, top out as for Chipojo. Long draws or a bit of back cleaning before the ledge will reduce drag.

This route climbs the corner with nice laybacking up to the right wall. Shares first bolt with Ana Banana.

Climb straight up starting to the right of the ficus tree.

The bolt line up the right side of the face -- steep and sustained for the grade.

A classic for its grade.

Rebolted with glue ins, expansion bolt next to glue in at first bolt.

Directly across form the first big tufa on the Right Wall.

Start on the gray, strongly featured rock. Climbs nice and homogenously up on sharp rock with good holds. Popular top-rope route - bolts are spaced a bit far as an initiation route for lead.

Start at the base of Otra Pasta and move right up into the offwidth crack. You can either climb in the crack, or use the face to the outside.

Climb the light grey pillar on the left of the cliff. The route finishes behind the top of the pillar, but one bolt was missing from the anchor – if still the case, rap off another route’s anchor on the left side of the pillar.

Climb the vegetated groove up the left-side of the main face.

Be careful if lowering-off with a 60m rope, as it is a rope-stretcher.

The classical test piece of Viñales. Taking the Bull by the Horn was a top rope problem following the same line.

Climbs the slightly overhanging but juggy area to the left of On Belay Hombre. The first bolts can be hard to see (torch or local knowledge useful). Watch out for the smelly bat cave as you clip the anchors. (Note: Guidebook gives 6c, but locals are adamant that it’s 6b.)

Shares anchor with Cuba Libre (top).

Another classic on this impressive wall!

At cave entrance, climb onto the boulder/chockstone. Follow tufa to anchors.

This route climbs the left edge of the tunnel entrance.

• Pitch 1: Stay left after bolt 2 and pass right behind the tree on the ledge to an anchor left behind the big stalactite.
• Pitch 2: Move right behind the stalactite on the ledge to another anchor.
• Pitch 3: Trends slightly left from the anchor.

Lower down from the top to the stairs. Easier to clean pitch 1 in top rope.

Easiest climb in Cuba, but still fun. Starts outside cave entrance, head up sharp rock on left wall.

Has been well bolted since the guide book was published in 2005. Also, seems to have been extended past the original tree anchor to a bolted anchor, and the extension seems harder than 3+, at least 4 maybe 4+.

Is bolted now, was originally gear protected and named Fire Down Below. It's the first climb you see as you get to the crag up the obvious crack system. It looks good but turns into a filthy dirt fest after the first 5 metres. Worst climb I did in Cuba.

Easy crack on sharp grey rock to the right of where the path enter the crag. Nice easy warm up.

This climb is in the jungle, about 30m left of "Torre Blanca". Be prepared to have to pull down the occasional thorn-vine if you climb this.

The 2009 guide-book grades it "4+", but it is noticeably harder than this -- comparable to the harder 5+ routes in the Ensenada.

Middle climb on the cliff -- climbs up to the right-most of the two rain grooves at the top of the cliff. Really high first bolt -- but can "borrow" the first bolt or two from "Mojaita" to reduce the run-out.

Climb the groove/dihedral left of "Torre Blanca".

Climb the groove/dihedral right of the pillar. Anchor is to the right at the top, shared with "En La Sombrita".

The left variant of the first pitch of Filo de Cuchilla.

This route starts on brown rock just right of Leche de Mipalo and shares the anchor with its extension.

Climb the second line of bolts back from the boulder/chockstone. Follows a crack system which widens towards the top. Rock can be sharp. The last few metres are a little blank.

Great route. At least 60 meter rope necessary! Start with a nice overhanging section on big holds. In the upper section a big tufa with a long reach to a big hold.

Goes up just left of the big tufa.

Starts just right of the tree and shares the anchor with RM. Easy climbing to a crux to exit on the slab.

First pitch is Pablo’s Squirmfest.

Follows the bolt line left of the Ficus tree -- but starting from the left is noticeably harder than 4+. Probably only climbs at 4+ if you use the trees on the way up.

Route on the left-side of the cliff. Has a lower (though still high) first bolt than the others. Climb up and onto the base of a palm tree, then up the semi-circle rain groove (dihedral) above to anchors.