Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
5+ | ★ Obere Westwand - with Merlin | 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | ||||
The second pitch is definitely easier than "Alter Weg", but I still don't believe the traverse after falling over to the tower is possible for 5+.
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5+ |
★ Obere Westwand
- with
Christoph Rauch
1
lead by
Christoph Rauch
2
lead by
Christoph Rauch
| 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | |||||
4 | ★★ Südverschneidung - with Jan | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||
3 | Rechter Plattenriss | 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 14th Aug 1994 | |||||
4 | ★★ Südverschneidung | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 15th Oct 2016 | |||||
Ab dem Band stecken jetzt 2 Bühler an den richtigen Stellen.
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7 | ★ Holzberger Gedenkweg - with Bovist | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 16th Jul 2019 | ||||
I'm proud to have made it to the top. The slings before the anchor are in very bad shape. I used a blue dragon cam after the third bolt and a yellow one below the slings. Had to rest in both of them; I could blame it on the crack being dirty and full of cobwebs, but I guess I just wasn't ready for it. Should have worn crack gloves or at least tape, couldn't stick the jams well enough; it could also be that one or the other foothold in the right wall broke off, so now you don't have any other option than to climb it as a full-on hand crack. I'll be back.
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7 | FA ★ Holzberger Gedenkweg | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | 1972 | |||||
7 | ★ Holzberger Gedenkweg | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 6th Jul 2018 | ||||
4 | ★★ Südverschneidung | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 2nd Oct 2020 | ||||
4 | ★★ Südverschneidung - with Dorit Heinrich | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Apr 2020 | |||||
4 | ★★ Südverschneidung | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 28th Aug 1998 | |||||
3 | Rechter Plattenriss | 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 28th Aug 1998 | |||||
3 | Rechter Plattenriss | 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 3rd Apr 2022 | |||||
4 | ★★ Südverschneidung | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 7th Nov 2020 | |||||
4 | ★★ Südverschneidung - with Torsten Schierz, Gabriele Marg, Wieland Welsch, Annika Marg, Sophie Welsch, Helena Welsch | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 29th Jun 2015 | |||||
4 | ★★ Südverschneidung | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 15th Jul 2023 | |||||
4 | ★★ Südverschneidung - with Peter Zahn, Denis Blum | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | |||||
4 | ★★ Südverschneidung - with Merlin | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | ||||
Easy dihedral with perfect slots for nuts.
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4 | ★★ Südverschneidung - with Christoph Rauch | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | |||||
7+ | FA Messer | 18m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | 1980 | |||||
FFA.
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7+ | Messer | 18m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 15th Sep 2018 | |||||
3+ | ★ Achsenkamin - with Christoph Rauch | 10m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | ||||
Harder for small people.
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3+ | ★ Achsenkamin - with monolith, Bovist | 10m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | ||||
The chimney between the two towers starts at a height of 3 m over the ground, which makes it incredibly strenuous to get in. Funny business.
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3+ | ★ Achsenkamin - with Christoph Rauch, Bovist | 10m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | ||||
If the legs of the climber are too short, there is a need of a daring drop hands first from one brother to the other to get into the chimney. ("Hände hoch, das ist ein Überfall." -belayer). Getting into the chimney was the hardest part. Would say it's definitely again some classic 3+ ;-) chimney climbing. Smaller climbers have more fun in this one .
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7+ | Messer - with Ellen | 18m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Oct 2021 | |||||
Didn't have a chance at all above the bolt. Fell off a few times and tried until the holds got too slimy. Has certainly not been climbed a good while, probably because you need to protect the first half with nuts and the second half has got old slings. Also probably has nothing to do with 7+.
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3+ | Südrippe - with Merlin, Bovist | 10m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | |||||
3+ | Südrippe - with Christoph Rauch, Bovist | 10m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | |||||
5 | ★ Schiefer Riss | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 12th Aug 2000 | |||||
6 | ★ Sanduhrenweg | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 4th Oct 2016 | |||||
6+ | ★ Friend | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 6th Oct 2016 | ||||
6- | ★★ Alter Weg | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 4th Jul 2018 | ||||
3 | ★ Wendeltreppe - with Christoph Rauch | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | ||||
3 | ★ Wendeltreppe - with monolith, Bovist | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | ||||
Headlamp climbing. Funny crawl through the hole in the tower. #lastrouteoftheday
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3 | ★ Wendeltreppe - with Christoph Rauch, Bovist | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | ||||
6 | ★ Sanduhrenweg | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 4th Jul 2020 | ||||||
6 | ★ Arbeitslosenriß | 11m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 2nd Apr 2021 | ||||
4 | ★ Rechter Ostkamin - with Raimund | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 29th May 2021 | ||||
Nice chimney-like groove, a bit dusty and mossy, but not too bad.
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6 | Südwand - with Raimund | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 29th May 2021 | |||||
Nice little summit. Difficulty is to get over the rusty peg, the rest is easier. Now with new summit box and book.
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2 | ★ Bergseite - with Raimund | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 29th May 2021 | |||||
The easiest way to the summit in great rock. Installed new summit box and book.
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6- | ★★ Alter Weg - with Bovist | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Jun 2021 | ||||
A route with lots of character. Not done often since it’s a lot of effort for so little climbing. We didn’t find the easiest way to the top of the opposite wall, but it was funny bushwhacking. The step over to the tower isn’t too bad, but the few moves afterwards are quite tough. Almost messed up the start of the second pitch, there aren’t any holds in the crack! Keep a bit left.
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6- | ★★ Alter Weg - with Christoph Rauch | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Jun 2021 | ||||
6- | ★★ Alter Weg | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 28th Jul 2011 | |||||
5 | ★ Schiefer Riss | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 28th Aug 1998 | |||||
4 | Rechter Talriss | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 28th Aug 1998 | |||||
3 | ★ Wendeltreppe | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 28th Aug 1998 | |||||
4+ | Linker Talriss | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 28th Aug 1998 | |||||
6- | ★★ Alter Weg | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Mar 2022 | ||||
5 | ★ Schiefer Riss | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 13th Mar 2022 | ||||
5 | ★ Schiefer Riss | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 3rd Apr 2022 | |||||
6 | ★ Sanduhrenweg | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 17th Jul 2022 | ||||||
6 | ★ Sanduhrenweg | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 17th Jun 2022 | ||||||
5 | ★ Schiefer Riss | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 8th Apr 2023 | ||||
4 | Rechter Talriss - with Merlin | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | |||||
Interesting finish that looks much harder than it is if you got the technique.
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4 | Rechter Talriss - with Christoph Rauch | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | |||||
2 | ★ Bergseite - with Merlin, Bovist | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | |||||
3+ | ★ Linker Ostkamin - with Bovist | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | ||||
Not too easy. The start is the crux, somehow getting your body into the chimney. Quite green. #jahreserste2024
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2 Hard | ★ Bergseite - with Christoph Rauch, Bovist | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | |||||
3+ | ★ Linker Ostkamin — 2 attempts - with Christoph Rauch, Bovist | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | |||||
4 | ★ Rechter Ostkamin - with Christoph Rauch, Bovist | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | |||||
2 | ★ Bergseite - with Christoph Rauch, Merlin | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | ||||
3+ ~4- | ★ Linker Ostkamin - with Christoph Rauch, Merlin | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | ||||
3+ | Bergseite | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 29th May 2021 | |||||
Sport | |||||||||
6+ 7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg (Robert Lukas Ged. Weg) | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | ||||
7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg - with Christoph Rauch | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 15th Oct 2016 | |||||
Flashed the first pitch, seconded the second.
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7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg - with Daniel | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Oct 2016 | ||||
Tremendously good line. Starts with an interesting dihedral up onto a ledge with a beehive (be careful!), then along a diagonal crack containing the crux moves (which are finicky, but superb) to an easy finish of the first pitch on a big flake. The second pitch starts with delicate slab moves: small holds, not much for the feet either. Two meters up, you reach the big roof and begin traversing to the left along seemingly fragile flakes with only one bolt as intermediate protection, but it's immensely nice to climb. To finish off the great experience, you top out onto the tower and sit down on the bench to enjoy the view (after belaying your partner of course!)
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7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Aug 1994 | ||||
7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
1
6+
28m
2
7-
10m
| 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th Oct 2018 | ||||
bis unter das Dach, aber ohne Querung und Ausstieg.
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7- 7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th Oct 2018 | ||||
7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg - with Fabian | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 2nd Sep 2015 | |||||
7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg - with Fabian | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 2nd Sep 2015 | |||||
7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jul 2020 | ||||
7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Jun 2018 | ||||
7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 15th Nov 2020 | ||||
7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 28th Aug 1999 | ||||
7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 28th Aug 1999 | ||||
7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg - with Ellen | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Oct 2021 | ||||
Short direct start to RHG. Didn't even clip the bolts, to avoid rope drag. The climbing's not too bad, though, I guess it's sensible, even though the original line is more interesting.
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7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
- with
Maxi
1
6+
28m
2
7-
10m
| 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | ||||
Überraschend schwerer Einzelzug in der 6+. Die zweite Länge ist kurz, aber bietet eine sehr lustige Querung an dünnen Schuppen. Ausgesetzte semi alpine Kletterei über dem Wald. Echt cool.
Wenn man ein paar Stopper hat könnte man den Rest auch gut absichern. |
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7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 16th Oct 2021 | |||||
7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg - with E.Hocke | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 3rd Sep 2005 | |||||
6+ |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg P1
- with
Layla
| 28m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Jul 2022 | ||||
Endlich mal wieder ein top rope onsight!
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7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg - with Layla | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Jul 2022 | ||||
Geile Tour, knackig ins letzte Drittel!
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7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg - with Torsten Schierz | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 2nd Aug 2015 | |||||
7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg - with Denis Blum | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 7th Oct 2022 | |||||
7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg - with Denis Blum | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 7th Oct 2022 | |||||
7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg - with Petr Kadlec | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | ||||
7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg - with Chrissi | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | |||||
6+ |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg P1
- with
Wiebke P
1
6+
28m
| 28m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | ||||
7- | ★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg - with Tom B | 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||||
7 | ★★ Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg - with Tom B | 27m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | |||||
6- | ★ Der kleine Rabe - with Christoph Rauch | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 15th Oct 2016 | |||||
6- | ★ Der kleine Rabe - with Daniel | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 15th Oct 2016 | ||||
Easy up to the last few meters, where a difficult passage on small holds awaits you.
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6- | ★ Der kleine Rabe | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 13th Jul 2017 | ||||
6- | ★ Der kleine Rabe - with Fabian | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 2nd Sep 2015 | |||||
6- | ★ Der kleine Rabe | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 17th Jun 2018 | ||||
7- |
★★ Großer Quergang (Variante Einstieg Westkante zu Umlenkung Fragezeichen)
2
7-
25
| 25m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Apr 2021 | ||||
6- | ★ Der kleine Rabe | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 28th Aug 1999 | ||||
7- 6- | ★ Der kleine Rabe - with Ellen | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Oct 2021 | ||||
Got no recollection from last time. Also, climbed it past the anchor, doing the 7-/7 section as well. Not recommended in a single pitch, due to the ledge you can fall onto.
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6- | ★ Der kleine Rabe - with Daniel | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Oct 2021 | ||||
6- | ★ Der kleine Rabe - with Maxi | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | ||||
Schöne Aufwärmtour mit einer kniffligen Stelle in der Mitte.
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6- | ★ Der kleine Rabe - with Layla | 27m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 11th Jul 2022 | ||||
Schönes langes aufwärmen. Unten viel Botanik, oben gar nicht so simpel für den Grad!
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