Ascents in Unteres Inntal

FFA.

Yes, 1. Wiederholung. Heute mit Top Bedingungen. 5 Versuche auf 3 Tage. Dank an Bennet fürs sichern und anfeuern 👍

geniale Tour, my style

geniale Tour

Wenn man sich zusammenfalten kann, ist der Sitzstart gar nicht so schwer.

One-move crux (maybe you can also split it in multiple moves, but doing one long move seemed most realistic to me). Climbed everything up to the crux, and everything after the crux in one go (these parts are maybe 7a+), but couldn't even do the crux move as a single move. I tried to take the small but still relatively good crimp with the right, putting the left foot on the good handholds, going with the left into a sidepull and then bump the left hand up all the way to the good hold, but I couldn't do the move. Also, after trying the move three times, the hold felt quite slippery on both tries, and it's tough on your fingertips.

hard boulder start

Short 3 move boulder crux, which I mostly skipped, and then vertical to slightly slabby on small holds (Run to the Hill, 7c). I was slipping off the holds in the upper part and decided not to try again today. If I get back when it is cooler, the route would definitely be worth trying again.

Could do all the moves today, including the crux move. Beta: after reaching the two finger pocket at the lower end of the sidepull with the left hand, match with right hand just above and take the good upper part of the sidepull with the left. Go up to the bad crimp with the right hand. Left foot on the good foothold just below the sidepull, left hand to bad two finger crimp above and left of the right hand, right foot on good but polished foothold at about the height of the left foot. Dynamic deadpoint move with the left hand to relatively good incut hold for two to three fingers. Full crimp, right foot just right of left foot, left foot up, right hand to good crimp just right of left hand, left foot to relatively good foothold where the wall changes angles. Left hand to gaston two finger pocket up left, the next hold for the right hand is a very good slot. The route is possibly doable, but I don't know yet how the crux will feel coming from below, and the crux move might also not work very consistently.

I had to do multiple tries in a row because I was always too cold on the first try. The final successful try felt very good. First 8a even though grading is probably very subjective on this one as the main difficulty is a single move.

Did not manage to do the hard part from the second to the third bolt, but will try again. I wasn't able to hold the tension long enough to fit my left hand into the good slot, but it was also already the fifth climb of the day. The short part that I climbed was very nice.