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Gunung Parang

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 1
  • Aka: Mount Machete

Summary

Bigwall in West Java.

Description

Slab multi-pitch / single pitch climbing, The Grade ranges from 5a-7b+.

Mount Parang or Gunung Parang (gunung=mountain, parang=machete), is a rock mountain formation in the Purwakarta Regency of West Java in Indonesia. Located between the two main arms of the Jatiluhur Reservoir, this andesite mountain of volcanic rock shows three distinct peaks stretching some 1.5km from north to south, the highest of which is 963m above sea-level. Its 600m cliffs, offering hard rock and scant holds, make it a popular venue for recreational rock climbers.

Precisely location of Mount Parang is KAMPUNG CIHUNI, DESA SUKAMULYA, KECAMATAN TEGALWARU, PURWAKARTA, 46115, WEST JAVA, INDONESIA.

Mount Parang is "The Park" or "The Mecca" of rock climbing in Indonesia. This mount is becoming known in the world of Indonesia's rock climbing since 1980 where the rock climbing starting known as the sport for the first time in Indonesia. For any rock climbers, be incomplete if they have not tried to climbing and create a new route on Mount Parang. Climbing on Mount Parang is different than climbing on another bigwall around the world. You will deal with hot weather, rainy day, rock surface, crag, and the beauty panoramic view. Mount Parang has three main peaks, better known as the Tower 1, Tower 2 and Tower 3, and several small peaks there. Various climbing route is available here, but the more popular climbing route is "240" made by Skygers, rock climbing group from Bandung, who was in Tower 2. And also the climbing route "Special Forces" made in Tower 3, which is made by the Indonesian Army's Special Forces. Beyond the climbing route, there are many other climbing these routes made by some team from around Indonesia and even internationally.

The Best Climbing season is the month of June to October, because it rarely rains, so it does not interfere with climbing. But do not rule out the possibility of the weather can change at any time. However you still climbing on Mount Parang on out the best climbing season, but you have to ready climbing on rainy day, or just wait one day rain, one day clear. The important notes for all climbers, the patient need more here.

To climb Mount Parang, besides physical and mental preparation to be prepared, as well as the equipment and skills should be considered as well. In addition, the safety factor should also be considered, as in the Mount Parang, everything possible is always the case, in addition to weather factors.

Today, Mount Parang managed and monitored by local villagers under community of BADEGA GUNUNG PARANG with fully support by government of Purwakarta.

Website with topos.

Access issues

Badega Gunung Parang Village, Hotline : +62 8787 470 8230, Email: kampung.cihuni@gmail.com, Web: http://kampungcihuni.blogspot.com

Approach

Public Transport available up to Badega Gunung Parang Walking distance to the Crag approx. 15 minutes from Badega Gunung Parang Village

Where to stay

Camping or Traditional Hut

Ethic

No ethic issue, new bolting is welcome.

History

History timeline chart

Climbing area developed by local climbers around year 1980

Routes

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Grade Route

East Face of mt parang. Tower 1 and Tower 2 should be visible on the approach. Coming from the south this is the first face you come to.

More than 98 bolts. Bring lots of quickdraws. Hardest section on pitch 5.

Set: Arcamanik Climbing Team

Slab Climbing, various grades 5-7b+. 15 minutes from Badega Gunung Parang Village. Descent from anchor points in every pitch (45m). Reboltd in 2000.

FA: 1980

Maint: 2000

7-9 pitches, grades 5a-7b+. 15 minutes from Badega Gunung Parang Village. Descent from anchor points in every pitch (45m). Rebolted in 2000.

FA: 1980

Maint: 2000

Steep andesite slabs and a roof. Can be approached by hiking around from the East Side, or if entering from Jatiluhur it's to the right of the north face.

FA was a seige style climb in 1987 by a group of seven high school students from Jakarta (Innosanto Nagara, Tommy Chandra, Syahrul Rachman, David Ruus, Heru, Arief Hendro, and Robbie Irfan), supported by climbers from the Bandung-based climbing organization, Skygers (the late Sandy Febianto, Jati Pranoto, and Erik Prasetya).

The first ascent took almost two weeks, fixing ropes daily at each high point. Ramset bolts hand-drilled on lead, so the easy parts are pretty runout and the hard parts (ie. the roof) are essentially a bolt ladder. The team ran out of bolts for the last four pitches of 5.4-5.6 climbing so the only protection on those pitches is single bolt anchors.

Not sure if the route has been repeated, and very unlikely it's been rebolted, so any protection you find at this point would be unusable.

Most obvious line up to the big roof on the West face of Mt. Parang. Where the gully meets the roof go right and then straight up the yellow overhanging face on the bolt run.

FA: Team Tjitjak & Innosanto Nagara, 1987

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Wed 26 Apr
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