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Crack Party Guide

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 175
  • Aka: Bimbiminkia
  • Aka: Trad

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Gavin Anna Gre Barbara Zangerl Robert Buschlinger Andrea Brega Mariella Stradiva Solveig Korherr

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Crack Party 39 routes in Sector

Summary:
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F
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A
M
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J
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S
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Seasonality

All Trad climbing

description

Crack party is a trad only area, accessed by ropes up from the right of the central area.

approach

Traverse right across the base of the Central Area (passing under the boulder from which 'Crack a gogo' starts).

ethic

Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb.

inherited from Cadarese
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lower Tier

2 Quereinsteiger

From "21°" follow the ledge to the left until the end to a bolt. The big crack in the corner can be protected with Cam #5

Set: Markus Lipp, May 2023

5c Trad
3 21°

The right leaning finger crack on the slabby wall (it's leaning forward 21°) just before the staircase leading to "Lo sceriffo di cada".

Follow the finger crack until the end and than change into the well protected dihedral.

Set: Markus Lipp, 26 May 2023

6c Mixed trad 4
4 Lo sceriffo di Cada

The path ascends via some steps cut into stone, then a staircase. 'Lo sceriffo di Cada' starts at the top of these stairs.

6c+ Trad 25m
5 ?

left of 'Mission Gin Lemon'

Trad 25m
6 Mission Gin Lemon 6b+ Trad 25m
7 Non Parlo Inglese

right of 'Mission Gin Lemon' - right leaning crack and same face finish as 'Senza Nome'

6a+ Trad 22m
8 Senza Nome

right of 'Mission Gin Lemon' - dihedral and face

5c Trad 20m
9 Scarpadetennis / Scarpedetennis 5c Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Mustang 8a Trad 20m
11 Un pomeriggio da leoni 6c Trad 20m
12 Facile me larga 6a Trad 20m
13 Facile me larga

You need two Cams size 6 for the last part

6a Trad 20m
14 Django 7b+ Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 Ciao 5b Trad 10m

Upper Tier

17 L`amours toujours 6c Trad 25m
18 Signorina Fettembourg 7a Trad 20m
19 Mirabelle 6c Trad 25m
20 XXL 7a Trad 25m
21 Turkey Crack

A burly offwidth that cuts across a steep roof above the middle tier of Cadarese.

FFA: Sean Villanueva, 2010

8a Trad 25m
22 Camino vigiani 5b+ Trad 25m
23 Formiche 6b Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 Bookcake

FFA: Nico Favresse

Set: Andrea Sommaruga

7c+ Trad 25m
25 La Freccia 6b+ Trad 20m
26 Riscaldamente 7a Trad 25m
27 Larco

Curving crack that links to the finish of 'La Freccia'.

6b Trad 30m
28 Stretta ma difficile 6c+ Trad 20m
29 Cerutti gino 6a Trad 25m
30 Bon ton 6b Trad 25m
31 Sgrufola 5b Trad
32 Pin Feggio 7b Trad
33 Tazio Patio e Lepronino 6a Trad
34 Nn1 6a Trad 12m
35 Nn2

Cam 1 and 2 are really useful

5c Trad 12m
36 Nn3 5b Trad
37 Nn4 6a Trad
38 Nn5 6a Trad 15m
39 Nn6

After the slab, take best a Cam Nr. 0.3, 3 and 4 with you. There could also be used a sling around a jammed rock instead of the Nr. 4.

6a+ Mixed trad 15m, 3
40 Bimbominkia 6b+ Trad 15m
41 Jeune et con

The route follows the striking arete about 100 meters to the right of "Bookcake".

Not yet graded but rated RX!

FFA: Jacopo Larcher, Apr 2022

Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5b Ciao Trad 10m
Nn3 Trad
Sgrufola Trad
5b+ Camino vigiani Trad 25m
5c Nn2 Trad 12m
Quereinsteiger Trad
Scarpadetennis Trad 20m
Senza Nome Trad 20m
6a Cerutti gino Trad 25m
Facile me larga Trad 20m
Facile me larga Trad 20m
Nn1 Trad 12m
Nn4 Trad
Nn5 Trad 15m
Tazio Patio e Lepronino Trad
6a+ Nn6 Mixed trad 15m, 3
Non Parlo Inglese Trad 22m
6b Bon ton Trad 25m
Formiche Trad 25m
Larco Trad 30m
6b+ Bimbominkia Trad 15m
La Freccia Trad 20m
Mission Gin Lemon Trad 25m
6c 21° Mixed trad 4
L`amours toujours Trad 25m
Mirabelle Trad 25m
Un pomeriggio da leoni Trad 20m
6c+ Lo sceriffo di Cada Trad 25m
Stretta ma difficile Trad 20m
7a Riscaldamente Trad 25m
Signorina Fettembourg Trad 20m
XXL Trad 25m
7b Pin Feggio Trad
7b+ Django Trad
7c+ Bookcake Trad 25m
8a Mustang Trad 20m
Turkey Crack Trad 25m
? ? Trad 25m
Jeune et con Trad
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