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Yabloki

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 38
  • Aka: Яблоки

Seasonality

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Description

Easier, well-protected routes (plus a few harder ones) on the obvious long slab on the right side of the valley. Interesting climbing on pockets and slots.

Vatrushka starts at the corner/chimney at the very right end of the cliff. Routes described from left to right.

Access issues inherited from Tamgaly-Tas

A large sandy patch normally forms on the usual access road at (44.083491, 77.022340), about 5km from the crag. With a 2wd, you should consider taking one of the alternate roads.

There is a gate at the entrance to the climbing area. As of 2020 the wardens don't seem to mind if you just walk through and climb. They will, however, charge a fee if you drive in, or camp inside the fence.

Approach

Walk just past Lev and turn right.

Descent notes

Mostly modern lower-offs. The trad routes all have top anchors.

Ethic inherited from Tamgaly-Tas

There were some dodgy ethics in the past (chipped and glued holds), but the crag is now being developed as a modern sport crag, with respect for trad lines.

There is still plenty of space on Tamgaly-Tas rocks. There is a place for sport routes, multipitches, and trad lines. If you live or travel in the area and decide to put a route:

  • Use best materials available, i.e. stainless steel glue-in bolts and appropriate glue (Hilti Hit RE-500, Hilty Hit HY-200 or similar). The second option—expansion stainless steel bolts. If you don’t have access to suitable gear, please don’t bolt anything.
  • Contact the locals - that is Kirill Belotserkovsky on Facebook or at kirill@steelinside.com - to discuss a sector and a line.
  • Don’t bolt obvious cracks! Cracks could be done on gear, so consider doing them in the best style you (or those stronger than you) can.

If you don’t want to deal with drills, dust, and glue but want to join the process of development of the area, donate some money. One route costs approx $100, but you don’t need to transfer all the sum. Even a small donation will allow the locals to buy more bolts and set more safe routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Corner/chimney.

One or two hard moves to test your finger strength. For the grade, avoid the large pocket, and start on the right.

Follows the thin seam.

1 6b+
2 5c

5c if you stop at the first set of anchors (after 8 bolts).

For the send you need to tackle the slab at the top rather than wussing out.

1 5b 18m
2 5b+ 20m

5b if you stop at the first anchor.

Follow the thin racks after the first bolt of Tort. Offset nuts and small cams.

Two bolts at the top to rap off.

Two bolts at the top to rap off.

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Thu 4 May
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