Easier, well-protected routes (plus a few harder ones) on the obvious long slab on the right side of the valley. Interesting climbing on pockets and slots.
Vatrushka starts at the corner/chimney at the very right end of the cliff. Routes described from left to right.
A large sandy patch normally forms on the usual access road at (44.083491, 77.022340), about 5km from the crag. With a 2wd, you should consider taking one of the alternate roads.
There is a gate at the entrance to the climbing area. As of 2020 the wardens don't seem to mind if you just walk through and climb. They will, however, charge a fee if you drive in, or camp inside the fence.
Mostly modern lower-offs. The trad routes all have top anchors.
There were some dodgy ethics in the past (chipped and glued holds), but the crag is now being developed as a modern sport crag, with respect for trad lines.
There is still plenty of space on Tamgaly-Tas rocks. There is a place for sport routes, multipitches, and trad lines. If you live or travel in the area and decide to put a route:
If you don’t want to deal with drills, dust, and glue but want to join the process of development of the area, donate some money. One route costs approx $100, but you don’t need to transfer all the sum. Even a small donation will allow the locals to buy more bolts and set more safe routes.
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