Nodes in Kyrgyzstan

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Description [Edit] Lovely crack on the left wall next to Al Moudi (Pj's Crew graffiti). Difficult but exciting start makes way for easier ground after several metres, continue to follow the centre of the wall (deviating left or right lowers the grade) and finish on the same belay station as Men in Black.

This is a small little outcrop of rock that is a little further up the canyon than Area 1. There are now 4 climbs here that can be done.

This is a newly bolted line by Amadeus that is in the second area at Chongkurchak. It follows a perfectly vertical wall with very little feature. the first half has 4 bolts and the second half has only one (causing the R rating since if you fall at the 5th bolt you will most likely hit the ground from 10 meters up.)

The crux section is obviously the first half of the climb on the vertical face. The first bolt is quite low to keep the potential for a second line off to the right of the bolts up the arete, but you don't really need to clip it for this climb. There is also the potential to add an extra piece of protection in the tiny finger crack by shoving in a small cam or nut.

This climb is to the left of La Dalle A Didi in the second area at Chongkurchak.

There are 5 bolts to clip plus the potential for placing a small cam or nut between bolts 2 and 3. You may also feel like you need to protect the second half with more than just the one bolt that is there. There are places to put some trad gear in though so no worries. Good anchors at the top as well.

There were originally 4 bolts and then an anchor, but the first bolt has been chopped. This makes the climb a bit R rated as the second bolt (now the first bolt) is at least 6 metres from the ground and is not at a great spot for clipping. There is, however, a small crack where you could stick in a nut about 4 metres from the start. The crux is halfway up the climb at the (now) second bolt.

2nd from the left at area 2

Basically this is just a simple trad line to get to the top of the second area at Chongkurchak. The "crux" is halfway up the climb. Its all super covered in moss, lichen, and dirt, so keep that in mind when placing your gear.

The route is to the right of Dingo in the second area. Follow the obvious easy looking line.

This area has some great climbing. There are 10 routes to enjoy here. You will know you are in the right spot as there is a memorial plaque to a climber who died here a few years ago.

Another simple route that is a great warmup. Starts with a bunch of face holds, then you get a slightly smaller than the fist crack that you can jam up, and then it is back to easy face holds again.

Simple climb. It may be a bit wet though in some spots.

This route is unaccesable now due to a past death that looks like it resulted from a large Van sized boulder coming loose while being climbed on. All the bolts have been cut. Give it a try on free solo if you think its worth it...

Another good simple route that may also be sketchy due to loose rock as mentioned in Route 3.

This is a nice little climb going up a solid prow. Holds are often smaller and less obvious than most of the other climbs in this area. Good route though!

A nice easy climb to warm up on. This is also one of the only climbs here that you can protect with finger sized trad gear (and a couple larger pieces).

The start is good and hard as it follows fairly similarly the start of a 6c to the right of it. Further up the climb the holds become quite small and there is a good amount of technical slab climbing/smearing. The top mellows out and then there are your anchors!

Another good route to bring beginners to. Almost like walking up a cracked staircase.

The Mirror is an area further up the canyon than the other 4 areas. It has the hardest climbs at the crag. There are 5-7 climbs on this wall and all of them are rated between 6c and 7b. This wall is called "The Mirror" because the top section is overhanging and quite blank.

There are bolts all the way up to the chains. The protection is pretty close together. You should plan on taking 8-10 quickdraws.

Situated in the beautiful Ala Archa National Park opposite Ratsek Station with amazing views of Uchitel, Ratsek, Box and Korona peaks.

Almost inaccessible in winter

Begin at the left leaning crack on the far left of the crag. Follow the crack at first with ease until below a small roof, confident feet and a good reach needed to overcome this section. Continue until the boulder at the top with a nut belay station directly behind.

First crack left of the far left sport route. Start at the twin tat, move up the slab with some good but spaced holds along the crack. Easier ground higher up to a proper belay station.

Far left bolted line, proper slab route. We stayed slightly right of the bolts.

Start at a rightward slanting crack immediately to the right of the far left Bolted line. Easy moves up the crack until at the base of the black streaked slab section, climb direct the black slab avoiding the easier holds in the crack to the right and the sport route line to the left. Continue to the boulder at the top and nut belay behind.

2nd bolted line on the left. Slaby and techy face along a thin crack to the right of the bolts. Climb with care as there are no bolts between the second and the belay station.

Start at a small flake to the left of the second sport route from the left. Proceed up the flake onto a small 1-2m slab section and then following a vague crack to the top and belay station on the right.

Start one the right hand side of the low lip below the shattered crack. Take care on the high roof, there is a piton on the left. Roof can either be taken directly or the left.

Start on the right side of the same high roof as number 6. Climb awkwardly to overcome the initial roof and climb with care after as there is little gear until a break 2/3 up, following the shallow groove with nice finger cracks. Overcome final roof, belay station on the right.

Start directly under the double roof with piton on the first roof. Climb delicately as very little gear until 4 to 5 meters up above roof (two bolts nearby if you feel like it). Afterwards the face gets easier as you're getting towards the belay station.

Start on the bolted line below the large roof. Nice techy slab until big roof. Overcome the roof with difficulty via the corner. Then more slab with a nice undercling. Continue carefully until belay station on the left.

Start to the right of bolted line route 9 directly underneath the curved section of the roof. A difficult overhanging start and a reachy move make way for easier climbing. Belay station at top.

Start in the groove to the right of the large roof. Crux at the start with two pitons lower down, gets easier as you go. Exit to the left of the high roof (6a+ - 6b alternative, climb the roof directly).

Lovely splitter crack to the left of the right bolted line. Make your way up the crack, great gear placement along the way (pitons if you need). Obvious belay station on the large roof.

Far right bolted line on the face. Easier than it looks. Nice face climbing with good holds on the left. Overcome first roof directly. Continue up face to second roof and climb over via the right side. Continue up straight than slightly left below final roof, belay station on the upper roof (6c alternative, climb roof directly with reachy moves to top and sweet heel hook).

Start at the bottom left hand side of the broken right leaning roof system. Follow the roof easily until a final section 5m from the top using delicate feet and solid underclings. Same belay station as route 11.

Bolted line just left of the waterfall. Begin on a crack with nice lay backing moves until you reach a large niche, move up the niche and onto the face with some fun technical moves past a small ledge. Rope Belay at the top.

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Descent via Route 2 (rings)

Crux pitch are partially bolted Descent via Route 2 (rings)

Descent via Route 2 (rings)

Descent by foot from another side of the ridge

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

по Ю гребню с перевала Теке-Тор

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

Almost inaccessible in winter

3Б

Walk roughly 8km from the CBT Yurt camp to the lake with the obvious tower dubbed Orget's nose on the left hand side.

Located up a slope on the left hand track roughly 20-30mins before you reach lake Kel Suu.

Start at the obvious gully and move up to a large boulder with poor protection, make exciting moves out of the overhang being careful of the loose rock. Once on top of the boulder move right and up into the obvious crack, nut belay at the top of crack. Descent is an abseil from the pinnacle on the west side of the rock.

The large obvious tower on the left hand side of the lake

Pitch 1 - Start at the bottom of a faint crack below an obvious cave. Stay to the right of the cave and follow crack with care as little gear and loose rock for the first 10 metres. Continue onto a slab and unto easier ground for 30 metres until a large flat ledge with nut and cam belay below a small wall. 50m

Pitch 2 -  Move up to the left side of the wall following a faint crack onto a ledge with good protection. Afterwards move onto a small slab section and into a depression, continue up the face and with a tricky step onto another slab section. Nut and cam belay at the base of a large wide crack on the left side of the face. 50m

Pitch 3 - Work your way up the crack/gully and scramble up easier ground for 30m on the left of the face until a large crack is reached with nut and cam belay. 35m

Pitch 4 - Move right onto the face climbing carefully up loose rock onto more stable but poorly protected ground. Continue for 15m up on top of the face and venture right towards a large niche in the rock below an orange wall. 25m

Pitch 5 - Move above or around the large block to the right of the niche (be aware of rope drag for this section), continue up the loose slab and through a small crack. From the crack make an airy traverse rightwards and up a gully with some lovely bridging moves. Final scramble to the top of the tower. 50-55m

Descent on the right hand side via a series of steep gullies and crack systems.

Located in the heart of the Pamir-Alai mountains. Wild, glaciated and with peaks of up to 5000m; This is central Asia´s version of Patagonia.

The threat of terrorism seems to have dissipated in the years since Tommy Caldwell & Beth Rodden got shot at in their portaledge. From the early 2020s, the region unfortunately seems to be scene to increasingly violent border tensions with the Tajikistan military. The potential for sporadic, violent clashes is real. Best to check with your embassy on the current situation before booking any trips.

Recent border tensions background for 2022 & here for 2021

The threat of terrorism seems to have dissipated in the years since Tommy Caldwell & Beth Rodden got shot at in their portaledge. From the early 2020s, the region unfortunately seems to be scene to increasingly violent border tensions with the Tajikistan military. The potential for sporadic, violent clashes is real. Best to check with your embassy on the current situation before booking any trips.

Recent border tensions background for 2022 & here for 2021