Showing all 71 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Main Cliff | |||||
15 | Lost in Space
Start up Alpine Arête, climbing to the left, and up a short slab. Leap across the gorse leftward to gain the narrow arête. Up the airy and atmospheric rib with good but spaced protection. Anchor with a long sling and walk off to the right. | 20m | |||
13 | ★ Alpine Arete
Starts up the arête just where the track rises to meet the cliff. Optional protection in the crack on the right. Over the blocks and on up the arête all the way with reasonable protection. There is a DBA high up in the corner to the right at the top of Chimps. FA: Hugh Logan, 2012 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Crack in the Wall
From the same start move right along the dirt ledge to the crack. Intricate climbing at the start until the crack widens to hand size, then cruisy to the top FA: Hugh Logan, 2012 | 25m | |||
17 | Chimps In The Mist
Just further right along the ledge – the obvious corner and crack. Anchor station at the top. Lindsay Main, 2012 | 25m | |||
16 | Bloodless Coup
From the main ledge mantle shelf up to the base of the low angled red arete. Using a dubious block go up to a horn at the base of the arete proper, after Br2 the climbing eases to grade 12 tho little gear. FA: Lindsay Main, 2012 | 2 | |||
15 | ★★ Cornucopia
Follows the major low-angle corner with shrubs in the lower part. Copious holds lead up the corner to a series of blocks which appear to be stable and probably solid enough to take pro. Continue up the crack – hardest at the top. FA: Lindsay Main, 2012 | 28m | |||
13 | ★ The Jungle Book | 20m | |||
21 | ★★ Sequoia Arete
Starts at a small buttress with a low bolt. Up over this and climb easily to the ledge (cams for protection). Climb the arête past three bolts. FA: Marty Schmidt, 2012 | 22m, 4 | |||
13 | ★ Step To The Right
Starts up a crack left of the main corner, leading left past the small roof and under the large roof. Step right and out around the roof and climb the crack above (crux). Finish up the corner to a high anchor station. FA: Hugh Logan, 2012 | 25m | |||
16 | Reprobate | ||||
14 | ★ Renegade | ||||
23 | Walk on the Mild Side
FA: John Allen, 1979 | 20m, 3 | |||
12 | Chocolate Frog | ||||
17 | ★ Deviant | ||||
19 | ★ Undeviated
Start up Paradise Regained and clip the bolt with a sling, but then move straight up on to the slab to join the crack just right of the bush. Up the steepening crack (crux) and over the bulge on good holds. Finish up the top corner as for Deviant. FA: Lindsay Main, 2014 | 25m, 1 | |||
16 | ★★ Paradise Regained
Climb the wall left of the arete past a bolt, then follow the crack. FA: Tim Wethey, 1973 | 15m, 1 | |||
16 | Paradise Lost | ||||
18 | ★★ Paradise Roof
First protection is fairly high, but after that it's well protected. Climb up the groove 2m right of the arete, continue up the corner then through the roof. There's a chain at the top to rap off. | 20m | |||
14 | ★★ The Psychedelic Era
The dog-leg crack that parallels The Shoveller at the top, to the same anchor. Finish over the block or turn it on the left. | 20m | |||
14 | ★ Addendum
Start up the crack to the left of the The Shoveller, then take the left hand flaring crack above that. Good protection. FA: Lindsay Main, 1978 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Dark Matter
A direct route between the cracks. Start as for Addendum (clip the bolt) and climb to the left of the corner, crossing the crack where it veers right and continuing up the wall to its left (pro) to meet a thin crack leading to the top. FA: Joe Arts, 2012 | 25m, 1 | |||
13 | ★★ The Shoveller
Prominent left facing corner, start on the left wall then move up through the chimney before moving back to the left wall again. Exit either to the right or over the top blocks. There is an abseil station to the left dropping down onto the platform | 25m | |||
16 | No Horror
Another link-up. Climb most of The Shoveller before moving right to the finish of Bygone Error. FA: Hugh Logan, 2011 | 20m | |||
19 | ★★ Bygone Error | 25m, 4 | |||
16 | ★★★ The Ultimate Horror
Climb the technical face on small edges past 2 bolts to a steep finish. Sustained! | 20m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Pleasant Interlude
Start as for TUH with a cam placement and angle across and rightwards of a small triangular roof. Pass two bolts on their left to gain easier ground, with a run-out to gear. From the blocks finish up overhanging leaning hand crack to right. | ||||
16 | ★ Gorsegeous Groove
Start up the corner past the gorse stumps and gain the crack on the right to skirt a gungy section, climbing past a flax bush. Then back to the corner for a squeeze chimney/off-width struggle to summit. FA: Lindsay Main, 2011 | 20m | |||
16 | ★★ Space Spirals.
Begin in the corner with an arching hand crack to the left and a seam on the right. Once you get established above this, take the right hand crack and turn the roof on the right, then follow the crack to the top. | 25m | |||
18 | ★ Seismi City
Start in the corner and move left with fingery moves to the first bolt; then up the arête past the second bolt to good holds. Place gear and climb the right side of the crack and directly up the slab with gear in the two horizontal breaks. | 2 | |||
17 | L'Abre Day | ||||
14 | Flowers in the Night | ||||
19 | ★★★ Dead Heroes | ||||
11 | Gorse Gully | ||||
17 | Acid Queen | ||||
12 | ★★ Diploma | 20m | |||
14 | ★★ N. S. U.
The fantastic crack line. Enjoy the surprise mantel to finish. | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Eliminator | 18m | |||
19 | ★★ Banksy
FA: Grant Piper, 2023 | 25m, 7 | |||
13 | Super Vegeman | ||||
19 | ★★ Falaise Malaise
Hard start up thin edges leads you to a superb hand crack and an offwidth. Well worth it. | 20m, 5 | |||
16 | ★★ Oblivion | ||||
17 | ★★ Voie Classique
Up the seam two metres right of Oblivion to an obvious cam placement, left to the other thin crack and more gear for a few metres, then move back right. Pull over the block on the left to a good rest, then up to easier climbing. The original finish trends right (to anchor) or you can move left to the Oblivion dihedral and anchor. FA: Hamish Dunn, 1992 | 22m | |||
22 | ★★ Falter | 24m | |||
21 | ★ Altar
This spectacular arête line was spotted and toproped as early as 1973, but it was left to John Allen to make the first lead. Start either up the shallow groove on the arête past 2 bolts, or on the L wall with little or no pro. Up the overhanging bit on the R, then move L at the horizontal break and exit. FA: Joe Allen, 1979 | 25m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ CERA The Terror
FA: Joe Arts, 2011 | 25m, 6 | |||
14 | Claymore
The huge black corner prominent from the road, steepening towards the top. Since recent cleaning the start has become much harder, with some thin bridging. Above this climb past vegetation to the steep finish, which is more intimidating than difficult. Good protection. FA: Hugh Logan, 1973 | 22m | |||
19 | ★★ Path de Pierre
Another superb slab climb. Start in corner, or go direct over first bolt. Five bolts (after retrobolting) and some mid sized cams for up top. FA: Hamish Dunn, 1992 | 22m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Little Vibrator
Starts in the middle of the wall R of C. at a small crack. Just below vegetation in the crack move R to a ledge and up the central one of three cracks to a sloping ledge. Step L up crack to ring anchors. FFA: Tim Wethey, 1973 Set: Tim Wethey, 1973 | 22m | |||
20 | ★ Cheniv de Pierre | 20m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Cabbage Milkshake
FA: Roddy McKenzie, 1983 | 20m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ Vitesse Terminal
FA: Grant Piper, 2019 | 20m, 4 | |||
17 | Eleanor
The arching corner. Spaced protection up the corner, followed by small gear in a thin crack on the slab to reach a traverse rightward along the ramp. Finish up the thin crack. FFA: Tim Wethey, 1973 | ||||
20 | ★ Greenstick Fracture | ||||
15 | Belle Epoque
FA: Jim Young, 1997 | ||||
16 | The Dyslexic Agnostic
FA: Lindsay Main, 2017 | ||||
Middle Buttress | |||||
16 | Splitting Haris
Short route at the far left, on grey rock. Climb a crack splitting the block; then step right and up the arête over horizontal cracks. Short but grim descent to the left through the scrub. FA: Lindsay Main, 2012 | 10m | |||
16 | Fawkes
Follow the slightly leftward trending groove for 10 metres, then move right to a ledge. FA: Alan Hill & Linda Broad, 1994 | 10m | |||
18 | Avant Gardener
Goes up the smooth prow. Start on the left and boulder up to the ledge, placing microwires left and below. Gain the ledge, with good wires in the crack. Climb on the left and place more micros above. Continue up past horizontal breaks with cams and anchor to a large block at the top. This climb is well-protected apart from the start, but expertise with microwires is required. FA: Lindsay Main, 2015 | 10m | |||
15 | Fluffy
Start at a small platform three metres left of Reprobate. Pull up steeply on positive holds (crux) with a small cam to the left to gain the corner. Then to the ledge and past a small roof to finish up a short corner and wall. Step right to the anchor for Reprobate FA: Tim Wethey, 1978 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Reprobate
FA: Lindsay Main, 1978 | 18m | |||
17 | Renegade
From the foot of Reprobate move right a metre, then climb the groove and wall above. At the ledge climb the groove just left of the prow to a horizontal crack, and then up the crack (crux) and pull around on to the prow to finish at the anchor FA: Alan Hill (start), 1994 FFA: Lindsay Main (finish), 2014 | 22m | |||
18 | Recidivist
Slightly contrived, being squeezed into the central part of the buttress. Use the Nostalgia crack for the first piece of gear and then up to the overhang and pull through slightly left to the slab. Climb the prow directly (16, Justin Hall 2013) to a nice stance and two-bolt anchor. FA: Lindsay Main, 2014 | 22m | |||
15 | Nostalgia's Not What It Used To Be
Up the right side of the buttress to a semi-detached flake (protection), and straight on up past the right side of the summit nose directly to the anchors. FA: Lindsay Main, 2012 | 15m | |||
10 | RB Route
7 metres to the right is a wide groove climbed on the righthand side. FA: Hamish Reid & Linda Broad, 1994 | 15m | |||
13 | Just one Scoop
Climbs the bulge and easy-angled wall 2 metres to the right of RB Route FA: Alan Hill, 1994 | 15m | |||
14 | Impetuosity
Four metres right. Climb the easy prow with protection from a small totara to the left, then up past a ledge with good cracks leading to the top. FA: Lindsay Main, 2012 | 15m | |||
15 | Four Steps
Start on the second rib to the right and scramble to a vegetated ledge. Bridge up with gear on the left wall in a horizontal crack, but step right onto a block. Muscle up a steep crack (high step – crux) to gain the main ledge, and finish up corners and cracks to the summit. Walk down to the Renegade/Recidivist anchor. FA: Hugh Logan, 2014 | 30m | |||
15 | ★ Ohhh! Look a thunderstorm!
Start a few meters left of 32. First pro at 6-7m, follow the leftward crack, then keep traverse to your left to reach a big crack that leads to the main ledge. Pleasant and easy finish to the summit (Probably shared with Four Steps). Lots of placements but lots of loose rocks and flakes as well. Climbed in a hurry while a big thunderstorm was crossing the Harbour... FA: Minke Unwin & Robin Jodon, Oct 2018 | 30m | |||
15 | Just in Time
Start as for 3 Two 1 with the small cam placement, but move left and climb the corner-crack. Step right to the ledge and over a block before tacking the headwall as per 3 Two 1. FA: Hugh Logan, 2015 | 15m | |||
16 | 3 two 1
At the right end of the cliff is a rounded arête or small buttress, climb this sticking to the arête to tackle an overhang on good holds. A small friend protects the start. FA: Justin Hall, 2014 | 15m, 2 | |||
Lefthand Buttress | |||||
20 | ★★ Sow's Ear
FA: Lindsay Main, 2012 | 20m, 1 |
Showing all 71 routes.