A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Table of contents
- 1. Wall of Sirens 10 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Wall of Sirens 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -38.670702, 175.867474
description
You will have to climb into this area via one of the last two climbs on the point, then rappel down to the waterline, build a trad anchor and climb back out. It is still pretty overgrown with lichen but is good fun.
access issues
NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.
approach
Climb into this area via one of the last two climbs on the point (Park in the Walk, or Benny's Magical Koura Circus), then rap down to the waterline. Alternatively accessible by boat in calm conditions.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Rain Dogs
Leftmost finger to hand crack on the wall. User anchors as for Benny’s Magical Koura Circus. FA: Gerard Tarr, Andrew Scott & Rob Addis, 2012 | 19 | 22m | |||
| 2 |
★★ Rain Dogs Direct
The left-most line at Wall Of Sirens. From the small belay ledge there are two options. Either head up the small finger crack (20) or right through the overhanging hand crack (19). Whatever the option, head left to finish at the anchors of Benny's Magical Koura Circus. FA: Rob Addis & Gerard Tarr, 2012 | 20 | 22m | |||
| 3 |
Delusions of Grandure
Arange a belay in the long vertical hand crack and climb straight to the top. The friction crux at top is not made easier by the abundant lichen. FA: Andrew Scott, Emiliano Lardone Casenave Baravalle & Rob Addis, 2012 | 17 | 22m | |||
| 4 |
Cirencester
Start at the same belay for Delusions Of Grandeur, but at the midway point continue up the arete, then head right to the top slab. FA: Tim Exley & Alastair McDowell, Jan 2015 | 20 | 22m | |||
| 5 |
★ Femme Fatale
Climbs the narrowing crack from the waterline to the top, starting at fists, then narrows to fingers with a tricky layback for the crux. FA: Alastair McDowell & Tim Exley, Jan 2015 | 19 | 22m | |||
| 6 |
★ Lakeside Sewing Machine
A pumpy start leads to easier climbing up the dihedral. Decent gear, a single rack of cams and a good selection of nuts is sufficient. FA: Sam Lancaster & Rafael White | 19 | 22m | |||
| 7 |
Siren's Call
Belay is on the ledge 6m above the waterline. Head up the corner with the two overhangs, then up the slab. Good gear throughout. FA: Tim Exley & Alastair McDowell, Jan 2015 | 18 | 16m | |||
| 8 |
Take the Long Way Home
A tad dirty, accessible via a boat. Head up the widening crack to the chimney, then head left to the ledge, then upwards to the trees. FA: Shannon Greenfield & Shaun Brown, Dec 2019 | 17 | 25m | |||
| 9 |
Boriata
Apparently this is a "shitty" hand jam crack with a layback section. FA: Stephen King, 2005 | 16 | 10m | |||
| 10 |
Arsecrack
Mantle start, then head into a hand crack to the top. FA: Stephen King, 2005 | 17 | 12m | |||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16 | Boriata | 10m | |||
| 17 | Arsecrack | 12m | |||
| Delusions of Grandure | 22m | ||||
| Take the Long Way Home | 25m | ||||
| 18 | Siren's Call | 16m | |||
| 19 | ★ | Femme Fatale | 22m | ||
| ★ | Lakeside Sewing Machine | 22m | |||
| ★★ | Rain Dogs | 22m | |||
| 20 | Cirencester | 22m | |||
| ★★ | Rain Dogs Direct | 22m |