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Fixed Gear: Loose bolt

The last bolt before the anchors on the 19 pitch needs to be rebolted it started spinning when I tightened the nut.

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Created 6 months ago

Rock: Rockfall danger

There is rockfall danger around Predator and Aliens Resurrection from climbers on Guardians P3 belay or up in Jugzilla gully, be careful not to dislodge rock. Wear helmets when climbing or belaying, and do not hang around in groups at the base. Be alert if climbers are above you in these areas.

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Created 6 months ago
1 17 30m
2 16 12m
3 19 18m

description

A rad adventure through the bowels of the cliff. Originally run out trad, now fully retrobolted but really shines as a mostly-trad mixed route.

  1. (17) Up the rough slab, a few balancy moves, then sneak into the start of the cave and belay. Gear available most of the way.

  2. (16) Walk around the back of the cave, optionally build a trad anchor below the chimney or use hanger, then bridge up into the enticing darkness until you can exit via a small hole to a nice belay. Adequate gear can be found past the 2nd bolt.

  3. (19) Straight up then over slabby ground, left past a small overlap then grunt through the top overhang on jugs. Decent protection can be arranged the whole way but bolts are right there if you want them.

Route history

2014First ascent: Dan Head

Warnings

23 Oct 2023 Warning Fixed Gear: Loose bolt
25 Oct 2023 Warning Rock: Rockfall danger

Location

Lat/Lon: -38.66761, 175.86842

Grade citation

17, 16, 19 Assigned grade
16 [15 - 17] -- grAId
17, 16, 19 John Pitcairn
16,16,19 Erik Thiel

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 84 from 72 ratings.

Difficulty - 19

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 9 ratings.

Suggested Grade

18
19

Based on 9 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 44
Flash 14
Red point 24
Tick 36
Attempt 4

Comment keywords

jugs roof chimney epic traverse easy feet good awesome fun rad superb incredible cool super classic amazing great crux powerful scary

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Fri 12 May
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