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Tiger Wall Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Robin Jodon John Pitcairn Chris Kane Hartill David Jefferson Miles Mason Winther Alex Popinga Grigota Monasterio Peter Webster

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Tiger Wall 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -43.580146, 172.721515

description

This is a dark-coloured south-facing wall, severely undercut on the left side. It has some great climbs, with the benefit of shade during warmer weather.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Situation Comedy

Start just right of Mis-spent Youth and climb straight up the steep wall over a small roof (good gear just above) and into a groove. At the top of the groove make a committing move move right to a rest below a small bulge. Continue up to a ledge and finish more easily to a single bolt. Good protection except at the move right, which is runout and a bit scary. .

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

22 Mixed trad 15m, 1
2 Angel Delight

Climbs the severely undercut wall on from the left arête, start just left of the start of ‘Where Angels Fear to Tread’. Take wires for the top, otherwise there is ground fall potential clipping the anchor.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

24 Mixed trad 15m, 4
3 Pleasant Point

Start as for WAFTT. Climb to the first bolt but then go left and climb the insipient leftward trending crack past a second bolt to a good rest and a third bolt. Step right and climb the bulging face past the fourth bolt. Finish up easier ground to a single old bolt on top of the crag

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

24 Sport 15m, 5
4 Where Angels Fear To Tread

Three metres right of Mis-spent Youth, just left of a black streak. Prepared by Simon Middlemass eons ago, and climbed inadvertently. Hard start, then trend right on fingery holds. Five bolts, use Sunburst Finish anchors.

FA: Ico de Zwart, 2000

24 Sport 15m, 5
5 Sunburst Finish

About four metres left of the Matterhorn boulder. Over the roof to a resting ledge. Finish up the steepest part of the black wall to a double bolt anchor. Five bolts tending right.

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

24 Sport 15m, 5
6 Over the Top

An alternative start to ‘The Beer Hunter’ start just right of a slimy seepage line, climb direct onto the ledge and corner.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

24 Sport 15m, 6
7 The Beer Hunter

Start as for Speight’s Race, clipping its first bolt. Upon reaching the roof, lean out left and clip, then surmount the prow, trending left to the next bolt. Easier but balancey climbing past 2 more bolts leads to the anchor.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

25 Sport 15m, 5
8 Speights Race

An overhanging corner with stepped roofs above the Matterhorn boulder. Pull on to the ledge and climb the corner; then move left to a small ledge. Tricky move to the last bolt, then up slightly left to finish at the lowest point. Unfortunately this is the last route on the crag to dry.

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

22 Sport 16m, 5
9 Just Enough Speights

An eliminate line between American Dream and Speights Race, with good strenuous climbing. From the top of the ochre coloured block climb the initial wall past two bolts to the large roof. Go slightly right, then back left to the third bolt, which is out of sight around the nose on the left. Go straight up to a fourth bolt and a high step onto the steep head wall above. At the fifth bolt finish direct (steep and fingery), or alternatively above the fifth bolt move left to the top of the groove

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

24 Sport 16m, 5
10 American Dream

Overhanging route left of the cave, partially prepared by Simon Courtois. Start at the yellow boulder and haul up over the roofs on good holds, moving slightly right to finish. Great cranking. The abseil chains have good access from the top, but tend to land you in the elderberry. .

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

23 Sport 16m, 5
11 Three's Company

Start on top of the yellow lichen-covered boulder. Pull over the roof (second bolt to the right) and up to a detached book-like flake. Finish up the easier groove above.

FA: Pere Logan, 2000

20 Sport 13m, 4
12 Cat's Cradle

Start at the very right end of the yellow lichen-covered boulder. Cross the roof at its widest part and continue up a blocky looking wall with good holds to the final bolt and a tricky exit. Good fun - this is how sport climbing should be. Two-ring anchor. The belayer may wish to tie to the elder tree to avoid being dragged into mud or nettles.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

22 Sport 12m, 4
13 Playing with the Big Boys

Takes a line left of Southern Exposure, swing out left onto reasonable holds, continue gymnastically over the roof and up small holds to get to a jug at the fourth BR. Move up and over the roof to finish at the belay of SE.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

27 Sport 12m, 6
14 Southern Exposure

Start down by the nettles below a large roof resembling an inverted staircase. Move easily up to clip the first and second bolts to the more strenuous, technical climbing and a good hold at the third bolt. Weave your way around on good holds past the next two bolts to exit through an obvious notch. Five bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains above and to the left.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

25 Sport 12m, 5
15 Storm Bringer

Start at the edge of the cave just left of Big Girls Blouse, below and right of the first bolt. Move diagonally up and left past the first bolt to the second. Climb straight up the wall to the roof, then move left, up and back right over the roof to finish. The anchor is on a block up in the grass about five metres back. Four bolts. .

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

23 Sport 12m, 4
16 Big Girls Blouse

Just right, at the right edge of the overhangs. Start as for the next route, but move left (committing) and follow four bolts up the wall and through a small roof (either left or right of the fourth bolt) to a lowering bolt. There's also an abseil station above.

FA: cragrat, 1998

21 Sport 11m, 4
17 The Big Lebowski

At last, a 20 with bite - borderline 21. Direct route up the undercut arête. Committing moves with hard pulls to the second bolt, then easier to the top. Four bolts and a lowering bolt

FA: Dave Shotwell, 1998

20 Sport 10m, 4
18 Exotic Extraction

The right-facing corner a metre right of The Big Lebowski. A bold start on good rock to gain the crack is followed by easier climbing, with a steeper finish up the crack to TBL's anchors. Natural gear.

FA: John Iseli, 2001

18 Trad 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
18 Exotic Extraction Trad 10m
20 The Big Lebowski Sport 10m, 4
Three's Company Sport 13m, 4
21 Big Girls Blouse Sport 11m, 4
22 Cat's Cradle Sport 12m, 4
Situation Comedy Mixed trad 15m, 1
Speights Race Sport 16m, 5
23 American Dream Sport 16m, 5
Storm Bringer Sport 12m, 4
24 Angel Delight Mixed trad 15m, 4
Just Enough Speights Sport 16m, 5
Over the Top Sport 15m, 6
Pleasant Point Sport 15m, 5
Sunburst Finish Sport 15m, 5
Where Angels Fear To Tread Sport 15m, 5
25 Southern Exposure Sport 12m, 5
The Beer Hunter Sport 15m, 5
27 Playing with the Big Boys Sport 12m, 6
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