Routes as trad in Ōtākou / Otago

Vague crack to right of Quick Thyme. Can clip some bolts on QT if required.

The obvious right leaning crack and semi detached pillar above the beach. Hand jam or lay back as you burry your big hexes and nuts in this beauty - it can be hard to see all the way into the depths when placing gear. Then slip through the willow leaves onto the tricky upper section with less than satisfying pro. There is a loose but keyed in block at about half height. The first ascent, in good 1975 fashion, was made using only hexes and nuts. A good test of ones head space and not a route to be taken lightly. Chain anchor.

Direct start (Dave Brash, 2018): 3 bolts then straight up crack with reasonable pro. Original route comes in from the left (2 bolts) to crack.

Start as for “Keeping on the Straight and Narrow” then veer right. Clip the bolt on the lip of the mini-roof then up the crack on ok trad gear.

Retro-bolted by Dave Brash in 2018, this has cleaned up nicely and is now graded 17 (though solid at that grade). Clip 2 bolts then through overlap (crux). Continue up crack on trad gear, before clipping a third bolt and running it out on easier ground to the anchor.

Traverse of Bolt City and Main Wall.

Climb up and through the prominent roof on the backside of the pinnacle, on all natural gear.

Follow crack to cave, swing out left on hand traverse until its possible to move up, then finish up following cracks trending right

The classic polished crack. Bolted anchors at top

Rhubarb direct start.

Jam and layback a delightful steep corner crack and smile the whole way up. Double bolt anchor.

Two bolts down low

A scruffy route on the slab to the right of the end rib. Hasn't been climbed for years.

Up the black and blue wall with lot's of potential gear. Head left to anchors

Head up towards Cavernous crack and finish out left to anchors Information off climbnz.org.nz

Arete on the far L of the cliff. Finish on L angled crack.

Great bridging up to the welcome mega-jug. Start at the prominent R facing corner - best belay is at the broadleaf tree 4m above ground level. Pro is a bit sparse at the crux - take small wires.