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description

The route takes the bottomless laid back open book(s) immediately downstream of the 'Midnight Sprawl' buttress - cairn.

  1. [14] 40m Climb up the base of the first open book (approximately 4m up). Gain this with some trepidation (crux). Climb up the laid back open book above to reach the bulge at the top. Move through the bulge on left to gain the second open book above. Climb this. Careful of the loose block above the tree. Move left and climb the clean crisp rock above until forced to exit left. Climb up to the comfortable stance on top via the short wall. Careful of another possibly loose block on top of the wall.

Notes: Easier than it looks. The holds are all there. Superlative clean climbing. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'.

©

Route history

11 Jan 1998First ascent: Greg Devine, Tim Willmot, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -25.78059, 27.65925

Some content has been provided under license from: © MCSA (MCSA)

Grade citation

14 Assigned grade
Marc dM
14 SACIN - South African Climbing Info Network

ethic

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.

inherited from Trident Kloof

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

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Wed 26 Apr
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