★★ Headache 17

The route starts about 20m downstream of 'George' midway between two large trees, of trunk diameters approx. 3/4 to 1m. Ascend easy rock to a rock ledge about 9m.

1. 18m 11 Follow the line of a very definite corner vertically up from the ledge to a small stance where the corner ends in an overhang.

2. 3m 16 Ascend to a narrow ledge to the left of the overhang at the top of the sloping slab, slightly to left of the start.

3. 12m 8 Traverse 14m left into prominent crack/ 'Easy Option'.

Variations:

3a. 18m 17 For an independent finish traverse left 6m from the stance at top of Pitch 2. Then ascend into a small alcove, above which is an overhanging V-shaped crack. Traverse out to the right and ascend a steep face (strenuous) to a big ledge where a small block rests. This pitch is midway between pitch 2 above and the crack of 'Easy Option'.

3b. 18m 17 From the top of pitch 2 continue up crack directly above to top. This is a more direct finish than 3a above.

1. 12m 10 Ascend rough rock to top.

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.