Routes in Monteseel

Walk about fifteen metres left (east) from the bottom of the scramble. The climb starts just to the left of a small fig tree growing up against the face. The letters 'NS' are painted in yellow at the start. Layback up for a couple of moves to reach a recess. Continue straight up the recess to a small overhang. Side-step this to the right and then move up to another small overhang. Step out to the left to gain the face above the first overhang. Move up and right to reach a shallow recess. Climb this to the top.

Variation: From the second small roof, traverse out to the right for about 3m until the roof merges with the face. From here move straight up a shallow recess to the top.

The letters 'DE' are painted in yellow at the start which is about 5 m left from the bottom of the scramble. Climb a short recess to the overhang and then traverse left around a corner over two wedged blocks (well tested by a local heavyweight!) to the foot of a large, right-tending ramp. Climb the ramp keeping to the right hand side.

Variation: An alternative (grade 14) is to start from a point below, and slightly to the left, of the wedged blocks. Climb up, tending right and pull up onto the wedged blocks. A move or two to the left gives access to the start of the ramp.

This steep, technical route is very photogenic from the scramble down. Start three metres left of Vertigo. Climb up and slightly left to a block. Climb steeply up to the left via two pockets to a rail (crux), then up to the top keeping right of the arete.

Date and star grading unknown, but it looks about three star. Follow the bolts up the thin face between Technical Ecstasy and Vertigo.

Three-quarters of the way down the scramble an obvious recess is seen on the left (looking up the scramble). Climb this and finish directly up the blocky face above. A technical line.

Start about 10 m right of the scramble. Climb a short steep section to a large, dirty ledge. Continue up to a cubbyhole beneath a large overhang. Use a foot rail to move out to the right under the roof and then pull through the roof at its right-hand end. Climb to the top on the right hand face. Starting at the yellow letters 'EA' painted on the rock is much harder than grade 14. A start more in keeping with this grade can be achieved by starting about 3 m to the left and then climbing up diagonally to the right to reach the ledge. Not a great line, but worth doing for the excellent moves below and around the roof.

Start five metres to the right of Enema at the foot of a small recess. The letters 'AJ' are painted in yellow at the start. Climb up for five metres and then move left into a small recess with a crack. Move around the bulge above and then left to a small ledge. Finish slightly left up the nose.

Starts just to the right of Apricot Jam - the letters 'HT' are painted in yellow at the start. Layback up the short crack to a ramp just to the right of Apricot Jam. Move left at the overhang onto a ledge and exit up the clean face on the left. Fun moves and well protected.

Climb the obvious recess with a crack around the corner from Enema.

Thirty metres right of the scramble is a recess with a tree at its base. Climb the crack on the right hand side of the recess, moving onto a block beneath a small roof. Pull through roof and finish directly up the face above.

Towards the right hand side of the ledge there is a big dihedral with a narrow, orange face on the left. This face can be clearly seen from the top of Hot Line. The letters 'SJ' were painted in yellow at the start but it currently looks like 'ST'. Climb straight up to reach a ledge below the start of an obvious fist jam crack. Climb the crack and move to the right near the top. This is hard for a 14 unless you can jam well - a variation more in keeping with the grade is given below.

Variation: Climb up to the ledge below the start of the crack. Move left and climb the corner for a couple of metres until it is possible to move out right on a good foot rail to gain the crack line about halfway up. Continue up the crack moving slightly to the right near the top. Short, but interesting.

Mildly strenuous, but well protected. Beware of loose blocks. Start around the corner from Strawberry Jamb and to the left of the large roofs. Climb up a steep broken face and traverse right below a projecting block. Move up and left into the large recess. Climb this for a few moves and exit to the left.

Climb the recess ten metres to the left of Brutus.

This line takes the obvious bottomless recess above the ledge. Climb the obvious corner and move out right to rest on the nose. Step left onto two "stepping stones" and then climb up into the bottomless open book, where the quality of the rock improves. Follow the recess to the top.

1. Climb up a short face to a stance at the foot of a recess.

2. Move up the recess to a roof. Finish either to the right up a recess (11) or to the left up a face (15).

A difficult take-off is followed by easier climbing. Start five metres right of Flabbergasp. Climb through a bulge to a ledge and then right onto a block. Climb up to the base of a crack and exit up the nose.

Start at a small tree three metres to the right of Hightime. Move up to a large ledge, up the big recess and follow the curving crack to another recess. Exit left.

Abseil onto, or scramble up to the ledge around the corner to the right of Grasp. Climb the recess to a roof and then up the obvious bottomless chimney to the top.

This is a worthwhile route on clean rock with an interesting jam crack. Start three metres right of the Long Drop recess. Climb up the face to under the crack in the roof. Break through and jam/climb the crack to a small roof. Traverse right across a slab to the corner. Climb onto a block and then up and left to exit.

The route was named because it was high and dirty, but was "wiped clean" to produce a very pleasant route which ought to be a classic. Either abseil onto, or climb up a short steep face to the big ledge about thirteen metres to the right of the Toe Jam corner and to the left of the large square recess taken by New Rope.

Climb the face to an overlap. Pull through this and continue up a short face on the left. Move into the obvious recess and climb this to the top.

Unsustained with interesting moves, but spoiled by some loose blocks on the upper section. Takes the obvious square recess to the right of Elephant’s Asshole. Abseil onto, or climb up to the big ledge. There is a convenient belay tree on the ledge at the base of the recess.

Climb the recess keeping to the left-hand side. Move onto the left corner when the recess steepens, climb up on the left for a few moves and then step right above the steep section to a recess. Beware - the obvious block to pull up on to gain the recess is loose. Climb up using a hold on the left-hand side of the recess, which is followed to the top.

Enjoyable climbing on clean rock - worthwhile. Scramble or abseil onto the ledge to the right of the New Rope recess. Climb the crack on the right to an obvious traverse across a smooth face on the left. Climb the slanting groove and continue to the top.

Start on the same ledge as Eviction. Climb up on the right for a few moves, then traverse out left onto the nose. Continue up via good moves onto the face and then up the blank-looking face to the top. Gear is very sparse.

Start near the corner between Eviction and A Twist of Sand. Climb the steep face, avoiding the roofs, up to a ledge. Follow a crack system to another ledge. Start up a steep wall moving slightly left, and continue straight up to a shallow recess on the right of an obvious nose. Layback up this to the top. The first fifteen metres is easy, but unprotected, and the last ten metres is strenuous and committing.

Overgrown at present, but useful as a reference point. Climb a short steep face to an obvious break in a dirty recess. Keep mainly to the left.

Climb the big corner and chimney to the right of A Twist of Sand. Take your gardening gloves and hedge clippers to remove the thorn bush.

This is an impressive line for its grade.

1. Climb up an obvious corner to a large ledge. Move up from a small tree and move up and right to gain a small recess. Climb this until it is possible to traverse left to a stance at the base of a corner.

2. Climb the crack in the corner to the roof. Keep traversing left and up to bypass a series of roofs in a lovely position.

Takes the recess right of Quality Street up to the large ledge. Pull onto the face above and continue up a faint recess to beneath the top roofs. Climb through these to the top.

Takes the red wall right of Quality Street. The crux (2nd pitch) is very run out.

1. Climb the short crack to the right of Son of a Gun to a ledge. Move up diagonally right on blocks to a stance.

2. Step off left onto a ledge and continue diagonally left to a small ledge. Climb straight up for eight metres and climb the middle of the face to the top.

Scramble up to a large ledge at the bottom of the corner.

1. Climb up the steep corner to below the huge roof, and then up to a small ledge.

2. Move up from the left-hand side of the ledge for three moves. Move right and finish directly up the face above. Runners are scarce and tricky.

The only true chimney climb at Monteseel, with an exciting exit. Good for rainy days if you’re desperate to climb or can't afford to go to the pub! Climb the chimney to the left of the Tiny’s Toddle ledge. Stay well inside until forced to traverse out to exit around a block.

Takes the wall just right of Mother’s Day. Protection is tricky

Start three metres left of Tiny’s Toddle. Climb straight up the wall to exit left of the roof at the top. Gear is very sparse.

This is a Monteseel classic. It is fairly sustained, but is well protected. The climb takes the corner capped by a roof. Climb the crack in the corner from the ledge to just under a bulge. Bypass this by traversing left onto the face and then up to exit right under the roof.

Takes the smooth wall right of Tiny’s Toddle. Start at the right hand edge of the ledge and climb directly up past a peg and a bolt to exit slightly right. Friends ½ to 1½ are useful.

Start as for Ballet Mechanique. Climb the corners and roofs to the right. Move around the corner at the last roof and exit up the short off-width crack.

Start around the corner from The Archetypal Herbivore. Climb the short face underneath the overhang, and traverse left and up onto a ledge. Follow the recess above, move left and continue up to gain another ledge. Take the break to the top.

The route is better than its name suggests. Normally reached by scrambling onto a large ledge about twenty metres to the right of the climb and walking along to below the corner. Climb up from the ledge to the crack in the corner, which is followed to the top. Sustained.

A pleasant crux on an otherwise arbitrary route. Take the obvious jam crack seven metres right of Paper Plates and Crumbs. Finish directly above.

About thirty paces on the eastern side of Black Diedre is a single bolt belay at the top of the crag. The climb is directly below and is protected by three bolts, a number 1½ Friend and a no 5 Rock. The first ascentionist bets that you don’t flash it!

Strenuous and not so well protected. Start two metres left of New Hoek. Climb up a vague crack for two metres and then traverse left on small holds to the edge of the face. Climb directly up to a small ledge and then finish up the face above. As a variation, climb straight up a shallow recess from the start and then traverse left to the original line.

An easy, but interesting route with a nice finish. Climb the shallow corner at the end of the ledge up to a point where it is possible to traverse right and mantleshelf onto a block. Climb up from the block, tending slightly right and then left and up to finish on a clean face.

A classic. Sustained and steep in a great position. Start three metres right of New Hoek, around the corner. Pull up around a bulge and climb directly up a steep break to a small ledge. Climb a short face past a peg and then move left onto the corner. Follow a crack to the top.

Start in the obvious corner two metres to the right of Gentle Aquarian. Climb the corner to the roof and traverse left and up to reach a small ledge. Climb up the face heading slightly left to reach a peg. Move up to reach another ledge and then traverse right for two metres, where the route touches on Black Diedre. Move back left around the corner to a thin crack which is followed to the top.

A fine route with some good positions. Climbs the obvious dark streak visible from the top of the crag. Traverse along the ledge to start from a narrow stance, or alternatively start at the bottom of the cliff.

Climb the face to reach the recess, which is climbed until forced to traverse to the left using a small incut toe-hold. Continue left around a bulge to reach a small recess. Climb this to a small roof which is bypassed on the right. Continue up a shallow recess to the top.

Start as for Black Diedre. Climb up to a small ledge on the right (peg) and then on up to a small roof. Move right for two metres then pull through the roof and continue to the top.

This route follows the old aid route Middle Age opened by Colin and Dave Shuttleworth in the early 70’s. Start on a small ledge about six metres up and to the right of the start to Black Diedre. It is best to belay from the lower ledge.

Climb diagonally right to the middle of the wall and then up to an obvious rail. Move up and right to exit up a shallow groove.

Start as for Stormbringer. Climb up the face to a peg. Climb directly up the face above to a rail, passing a blade peg to the right. Finish up the same groove as Free Ride. Led out and sustained.

Start on the face just left of the large tree in the recess. Climb up to a ledge and then climb the crack and face above to the top

Start in the faint recess ten metres to the left of Old Man’s Climb.

1. Climb diagonally left to break through a roof and continue on thin holds to the corner. Climb up the wall to the big ledge.

2. Climb the vague recess on the right hand side of the ledge. Technically overgraded due to lack of protection on this pitch.

One of Monteseel’s classic climbs. Start at the base of an undercut open book.

1. Pull up into the open book recess and follow this for five metres and then traverse left past two pegs under an overhang to a corner. Move up the corner for three metres and traverse left onto the ledge.

2. Climb the obvious recess from the ledge, or alternatively climb the face diagonally to the right (15), which offers excellent, but unprotected climbing.

Includes most of the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb which is continued with some exciting climbing in a great position.

Climb the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb, but instead of traversing left to the ledge, traverse right around the corner and continue directly up to the top.

Originally opened with two points of aid. A direct and steep line. Start five metres to the right of Old Man’s Climb. Pull through a small overhang and climb up to a small ledge at the base of a small roof. Pull through the roof into a steep recess and up to a tree about five metres higher. Continue up the break for three metres and then traverse right past two pegs to a shallow scoop. Exit diagonally to the left.

Start as for Youngster’s Line. Move diagonally right for a few metres and then straight up to a rail. Move right to a block/spike. Continue up and left, finishing up the groove.

Start in the big corner right of Youngster’s Line. Climb the large crack/chimney to an obvious traverse onto the left hand wall. At the end of the traverse, climb up and break through the roof to finish. The second half is better than the first.

A good route on a fine wall. Sustained, but well protected. Take the small recess about two metres right of Generation Gap. Climb up the recess for three metres and move into the corner. Traverse out right to a shallow crack on the wall and climb this to a rail. Move slightly right and pull onto the face above to exit.

A good route but difficult to protect, especially on the lower section where a crater is possible. Start one metre right of Microphobia. Climb the face to the same level as the large overhang. Traverse right and move up onto the corner. Climb into a recess and follow this to a ledge. Finish up a short face and the corner on the left.

Start five metres right of Whippersnapper. Pull into the square-cut recess and move left onto the face above. Move up to the highest point in the roof above and break through on the left past two pegs. Climb the face above and continue to the top keeping to the right of Microphobia.

Start at the tree at the bottom of Virgin. Move out left to a block on the nose. Traverse back right to the centre of the wall. Climb up between rails and exit just right of the bush.

Climbs the same wall as Slut. Start at the bolt and pull straight through. Continue up the face, avoiding the arete and openbook.

Takes the crack in the corner below the abseil (fig) tree. Climb a short broken section past a tree to the base of the crack. Climb the crack, exiting slightly right to avoid a bulge near the top. Considerably harder if you face the wrong way.

Good climbing on both pitches, but watch out as some 18’s are harder than others.

1. From the large blocks, climb a shallow openbook and take a break through the overhang to a ledge. Traverse left around a jammed block and climb another shallow recess to a large ledge. Avoid the rotten recess on the extreme left.

2. Climb the finger crack to a jammed block. Climb past this and move left to finish up another crack.

The name refers to an unexpected fall on the first ascent. Start from some blocks to the left of Goofball Crack, directly below a large overhang.

1. Climb up to the overhang, traverse left to a recess and climb this to a large ledge. The first eight metres is tricky to protect.

2. Traverse left and up a ramp to gain a small corner on the right. Pull through to easier ground and exit.

Start from the ledge at the end of the first pitch of Burnt Hands. Climb the crack in the corner on the right.

Start on a huge block. Climb up a steep section and then on easier rock to an old peg. Traverse left and then up another steep section to a second peg beneath a small roof at the base of a blank wall. Traverse left on a poor rail to a crack and climb the face above to a ledge. Move right and exit up a steep recess.

An easy line through an impressive overhang. Start about twenty five metres right of Pink Void and scramble up the obvious fault with a tree in it. Traverse to below a huge roof and follow the crack through this to the top.

Takes the impressive wall left of The Great Unwashed. Start at the tree at the bottom. Climb up blocks to a rail then diagonally left to a smooth face. Climb this on fragile holds to a rail and then into a cubbyhole to the right of a small cave. Move out right onto good rock, up for five metres and then back left to a rail and up to exit.

Steep, but unsustained with some pleasant climbing. Needs occasional gardening, but worth the effort. Start further down on the left-hand side of the same ledge as Afternoon/Morning Tea.

Climb the broken recess to a cubbyhole under the small overhang. Pull through this on the right and then move back left to a crack. Climb this to the top.

A short climb with a pleasant finish. Climb the crack in the corner to the right of The Great Unwashed until it is possible to traverse out right onto the face, which is followed to the top. Alternatively, continue up the crack.

A short, but steep crack climb. Climb the crack in the face to the right of Afternoon Tea. Exit slightly right up a small face. This route was originally graded at 15, but has been changed to 17 by consensus.

Climb the face and arete to the right of Morning Tea. Two pegs.

Start on the left of the ledge below Morning Tea. Climb up the flake line to a rail, move left and continue up to a large jug. Move back right to a rail and finish straight up.

Takes the obvious recess (with tree) to the west of Morning Tea.

1. Start directly below the recess and climb the face, moving diagonally right below a thorn tree to a big ledge.

2. Climb the face on the left at the bottom of the recess. Move right into the corner and climb through the tree into a wide crack. Continue up this and exit right at the top.

Worth doing for the crux on the second pitch, which is spectacular.

1. Climb up a small recess and traverse left across a smooth face. Climb up, heading right, to a stance. Poorly protected.

2. Climb up the recess and traverse right across the steep wall. Hand-swing around the corner and exit up a small recess.

A long, thirty metre line up the face to the left of Eskumbu. Start below a peg, then up past a bolt to a rail. Continue up to a short, overhanging wall then straight up past a blade to the smooth face with two bolts. Finish up the open book.

First opened with two points of aid on the first pitch and subsequently freed by Mike Roberts, Ladson Hayes and Roy Gooden in 1976. Good climbing and well worth doing, with a great handswing on the second pitch.

1. Climb a broken face into a small recess. Climb this past a peg and continue up over a section of bad, but easy rock to a stance at the base of an open book.

2. Climb the open book to an obvious rail. Traverse left onto the steep wall using the foot rail until a crack is reached. Climb this for three metres and then handswing across a steep wall to a resting point. Climb easily to the top.

A worthwhile route with a technical second pitch. Start five metres to the right of Eskumbu.

1. Climb up to a small overhang and pull through this into a short recess. Continue up this recess to the foot of a big crack. Climb this to a good stance.

2. Climb up the big open book until it is possible to traverse across the right hand face to the corner. Continue up this to the top.

Climb the left-hand side of the wall to the left of Tantalus. A layback crack is followed near the top. The original line is uncertain.

An excellent top pitch with a fine exit. The route takes the obvious big corner to the right of Fragmentation.

1. Several lines exist, the best being to climb slightly left into a break and then tend right to the base of the big corner.

2. Climb up the corner to the big roof and exit right on an off-balance ramp.

Poor rock in parts. Starts just left of a recess.

1. Climb up left of a few stepped blocks to reach a thin crack. Move right into the top of the recess and pull up. Continue right to under an overhang which is bypassed on the right. Move back left to a large ledge.

2. Climb the open book above to an overhang. Traverse right across a slab and up through a "vee" break to a ledge. Continue up the crack to the top.

First free ascent: John Fantini and Rich Smithers, 1978

Originally an aid route, it was freed to provide a spectacular route through impressive roofs on both pitches. Starts in the corner under the huge roofs.

1. Climb up the corner and traverse out to the lip. Pull up to a broad ledge. Climb diagonally right and then back left to avoid the second roof. Climb up a short recess to a stance.

2. Climb the open book to the roof. Pull through the roof into a small recess and continue to the top.

Airy and exposed. Start on the Owl scramble ledge. Climb past a peg to a rail. Traverse left along this to just before the end of the face. Climb a shallow recess from a small ledge past a wedged block. Climb diagonally left and exit by moving around the corner to finish up the last two metres of Tired Geddon.

The line follows an old aid route, Shisa Ikanda, opened by Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle back in the mists of time. Start at the bottom end of the Owl ledge.

Step down onto the face and traverse out left to the end onto the cruddy rock. Climb up the crack via laybacks to the blocky ledge. Move diagonally up right (crosses Space Truckin’) to below the obvious recess. Avoid this by stepping left and exiting up the next recess.

Start at the end of the Owl ledge, as for Magrathea. Climb down and left for two metres, and then up on thin holds to a rail passing to the left of a small roof (unprotected except for the peg on Winnie-the-Pooh). Climb directly up the face above on thin holds.

Excellent climbing on a steep wall, and a good test of nerve for the leader. Start on the Owl ledge as for Space Truckin’.

Climb up past the peg and follow a diagonal line of good incut finger holds to the base of a recess on the right (unprotected between the peg and recess, but a bomb-proof wire can be placed in the rail by moving slightly left after passing the peg). Climb the recess to the top.

Start two metres right of Winnie-the-Pooh.

Climb straight up on micro-thin edges past two bolts, and then up just right of a crack to a rail. Step right at the rail and then up the wall past a crescent-shaped pocket.

Start right of The Leper Messiah next to a small open book. Climb up past a rail to a second rail. Climb straight up past two bolts to the top.

Follow the curved break above and to the right of Tight Arsed Egomaniacs

Take the first break to the left of Foreign Intervention and Hot Head. Climb the recess to a steep face, and then past two pegs to finish.