Showing all 10 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The East Wing | |||||
21 | ★★★ A RUSH OF BLOOD TO THE HEAD
Climbs the front of a large pillar/buttress at the far left end of the East wing. Walk up to the base of the East wing from the big pool beneath the waterfall. Walk left beneath the crag, past the massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). You can see the buttress/pillar from here. Walk to the base of the buttress. It is the last good rock before the descent gulley. (You can see the climb well from the descent gulley - great photo opportunities). Start towards the left of the buttress.
Descent: Scramble rightwards off the top of the buttress. Walk right along the bushy ledge to the top of Mamba Chimney. A 20m abseil off the fig tree here gets you to the next fig tree on a big block just above the chimney proper. A 30m abseil from here gets you to the ground. Or you can walk off to the top. FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze & Herman Uys, 2010 | ||||
20 | ★★★ THE GAY MONKEY
Towards the middle of the East Wing is a massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). Immediately to the right is a buttress with a large, detached block at its base (HANDJAM ascends this buttress). The next buttress further right has an obvious splitter up a slab for its top third. This route ascends the splitter. Start directly beneath it.
Descent: Abseil off the tree or climb a short scramble and top out. Notes: The splitter was originally approached by doing the first pitch of HANDJAM and then traversing right, by Ian, Graham and Christie, Sept 2010. FA: Ian Kotze, Graham Terrell, Christie Terrell, Hector Pringle & Herman Uys, 2010 | ||||
22 A0 | ★★★ NAKED REPTILE
1
22 A0
50m
2
17
30m
Towards the middle of the East Wing is a massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). About 50m right of this the bottom of the crag is fairly broken. Start by scrambling up here to a ledge about 10m above the ground. This is about 8m beneath a long, narrow roof with an undercling crack around its left edge. The route pulls through this roof then moves left onto the steep wall with the splitter hand crack.
Descent: Scramble down and left to the top of Mamba Chimney. A 20m abseil off the fig tree here gets you to the next fig tree just above the chimney proper. A 30m abseil from here gets you to the ground. Or you can walk off to the top. Notes: Opened with one rest. Still needs a clean ascent. From the top of pitch 1 it is possible to climb/scramble diagonally left to walking territory. FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze & Herman Uys, 2010 | 80m | |||
The West Wing | |||||
22 | ★★★ THE IMPOSSIBLE DREAM
1
19
50m
2
22
30m
3
18
30m
This route ascends the very obvious huge open book about 30m right of the pool. Start where some tree roots come down the face to ground level.
Notes: Small cams are useful FA: Jerry Linke, Romey Druschke & Eckhart Druschke, 1979 FFA: Hector Pringle & Ian Kotze, 2010 | 110m | |||
17 | Spiral
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22 | ★★★ HEAD ARRANGEMENT
1
16
30m
2
20
25m
3
22
40m
Standing near the big pool one can see a very obvious huge open book about 30m right of the pool. This is THE IMPOSSIBLE DREAM. The next deep open book to the right of this (about 30m right, and right of the cave) is a large offwidth crack. This is KNEEJAM BLUES. HEAD ARRANGEMENT starts as for KNEEJAM BLUES and then branches off left and heads for the big roof. It breaks around the left edge of the roof and ascends the headwall to the top.
Notes: The original HEAD ARRANGEMENT first pitch starts about 5m left of KNEEJAM BLUES and is graded 19A1. It looks very dirty and unappealing, but still awaits a FFA. FA: J. Fantini & Greg Moseley, 1980 FFA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze & Herman Uys, 2010 | 95m, 3 | |||
17 | Knee Jam Blues
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22 | ★★★ CONTRABAND
1
22
55m
2
16
60m
Start to the right of Leguan, beneath the obvious left-facing open book.
FA: H Sangerl, Eckhart Druschke & Eckhart Haber, 1978 FFA: Hector Pringle, Linda Watson & Ian Kotze, 2008 | 120m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ THE ESTABLISHMENT
1
15
55m
2
19
25m
3
17
55m
This route follows a line between Groovy and Dirt bag groove. Start at the same spot as “Snakeskin Arête” but instead of climbing diagonally right, head left up the obvious ramp below the huge roof that is about 60 meters up.
Note: Third pitch is brilliant exposed climbing. Would be worthwhile to try and go through the bulge. There is good gear. It will be hard though. FA: Ian Kotze & Graham Terrel., 2009 | 140m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★★ SNAKESKIN Arête
1
20
35m
2
20
45m
3
18
20m
4
17
30m
Start to the right of Groovy, on a slight hump of ground at the base of the crag. Up and to the right is a striking arête with a steep, featured face to its left. Directly up is a fig tree at about 35m.
FA: Hector Pringle, Linda Watson & Ian Kotze, 2008 | 130m, 4 |
Showing all 10 routes.