Routes as sport in Baboon Buttress

A climb by itself on the walk in. There is a death block halfway up which we tried to lever off but did not succeed. Be careful or avoid it.

Anyone have the details for this route? Goes up the arête left of 'After Thoughts' corner

Up middle of face left of 'After Thoughts' corner.

Climbs the corner crack situated 20 metres to the left of the descent gulley (when facing the bottom of the gulley).

Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of 'After Thoughts'. Intense start with an interesting finish.

Climbs the chimney just right of 'After Thoughts' corner. A grovel.

Start with your feet on the lowest boulders, preclip first bolt. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Finish rightwards to for most fun.

Starts off the boulder. Climb up and pre-clip the 2nd draw. Dead-point your way to the chains.

The shortest climb in the gully, on the right. Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder (do not use this boulder during your ascent). 28 Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top.

As descending the gulley, this easy climb is on the left and angles up leftwards on grey slab.

Slab on arête in descent gulley.

Halfway down the descent gulley walk left onto a big ledge. Climbs the slanting feature.

Climb the next slanting feature.

Climb the face just right of the cave. Was opened at 22.

Surprisingly pleasant face left of the 'Grizzle Behr' crack. Was opened at 22.

Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge.

Can you hold the smallest holds in Boven? Starts up the tree right of 'Grizzly Behr'. Clip 1st bolt then use the tree to gain the good rail up and right. Move left then up to a good hold to clip the second bolt…..now brace your fingers and hang on, just barely.

From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face.

Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof.

From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove.

Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff.

Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors.

Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off.

Just right of 'Up in Smoke'. Share chains with 'Pretenders'.

Badly bolted weak effort about 3m left of 'Goose On a Loose'.

Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof.

Climb first 5 bolts with 'Pretenders', clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish.

If you enjoy chimney's, this one is for you. The route is in the obvious corner chimney.

Start as for 'Kannie-Ballistic' but head up straight through the roofs.

Start at the base of the chimney that becomes 'Up Alard's Crack'. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. The bolts leading straight up on the headwall is an open project. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag.

Short face climb below the big roof, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Excellent long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrement then up left onto the technical face.

Route climbs the face right of 'Sweet Plumb'. Climb past the chains of 'Thorns Between the Roses' and goes all the way to the top.

Starts 2m right of 'Sweet Plumb', just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête.

Route climbs the off-width crack between 'Thorns Between the Roses' and 'Wildfire'.

Starts about 2 metres left of 'Heroes'. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains.

Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Stays dry in heavy rain.

A few metres right of 'Heroes' is a right trending line. Hard for the short but 27 for those with a wingspan. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Starts by the black streak. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Start on the blocky arête right of 'The Bovenator'. Up past some reachy cruxy stuff then with sustained interest up the face to the chains.

Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Weird but a cool outing! From the ledge at the chains of 'Dreamers', un-clip the chains and keep clipping diagonally left, breathing slowly..go way left… then up to the chains. If you do this and 'Dreamers' as one pitch, you need a 70m rope and tie knots in the ends!

Starts about 5m right of 'Dreamers' and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Starts about 2m to the right of 'Not-da-Mamma'.

Start in between the 2 drips between the routes 'Hey Mamma' and 'Ice Cream Sundae'. The line follows the thin diagonal crack up to the ledge and continues straight up the head wall.

65m!!!! Start up the first 3 bolts of 'Sticky Toffe Pudding' then traverse left to the arête, then up to a ledge. Continue up the left side of the very large open book to the roof and up to the chains. NB: this is a long route and a 70 m rope does NOT get you to the ground. Use the lower off's on the ledge. To avoid rope drag unclip the 3rd bolt once you've clipped the 4th. The route can also be done in 2 pitches.

A long and varied climb with great exposed arête finale.

Starts at the base of a steep rightward trending corner amongst the trees. Climb this with effort then moves leftwards to a slab and rest, before tackling a technical and airy arête. A great journey!

Two pitches. The first is easy the second is very hard. Best to try the top pitch off a hanging belay (two bolts). Some outrageously thin and techy moves up the short vertical wall. Unrepeated ATOW.

Probably 33-ish. Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of 'The Butterfly P1', to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers. Joins 'The Butterfly P1' for the last 2-3 bolts. Opened at 35 downgraded to 32 and now maybe 33 as some footholds got smaller.

FA Video

Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks!

The crack in the sky! Can abseil in to the ledge, or access by climbing Pitch 1. Great photos from the top of the crag.

Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top.

Climbs the corner just right of a proud and steep knife edge 10m right of 'African Rain'. Slightly lead out but safe climbing slightly spoiled by a halfway ledge. You need a 70m rope for this cruxy cruise.

Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the 'Monster' cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. MCSA bolts

The second pitch of 'Gem Squash'. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of G'Gem Squash' and be prepared for some well-deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains. 70m+. A 60m rope will be just good enough to abseil from the final chains. MCSA bolts!

Fear of open spaces! Shares first 3 clips with 'Gem Squash' then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 18 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner.

Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of 'Jenga'. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks.

Shares a start with 'Toolbox', tending left at the third bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it.

Climb 'Jenga' till the 2nd last bolt. Then thru the roof just right of 'Jenga' to ledge, then continue to higher anchors.

Starts 15m left of 'The God No Wall' 'Rodan' in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. Great line with varied climbing the whole way.

Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

Climb the line just right of 'Toolbox'. Three bolts onto a large terrace. Straight up from here tending slightly left and crossing over 'Toolbox' halfway up. Crazy beautiful after the ledge.