Routes: Routes as alpine in Berner Oberland

Grade	Route	Gear style
Obersimmental Gletscherhorn
6b	Hintertüre 1 5c 20m 2 6b 30m 3 6a 40m 4 5a 20m Set: Kobi Schenk & Florian Bowee, 2013	Alpine 110m, 4
Niedersimmental Chemifluh
5a	★ Südgrat	Alpine 400m, 6
Jungfrau Region Eiger Nordwand
7c	La Vida es Silbar 1 4a 2 5a 3 5a 4 6c+ 5 6c+ 6 7b 7 7b+ 8 7c 9 7b+/c 10 7b+/c 11 6b 12 6b 13 6b 14 6b 15 6a+ 16 7a+ 17 7a+ 18 6c+ 19 7b 20 6b+ 21 6b+ 22 6b 23 6c+ 24 6c 25 6b 26 6a up the Rote Fluh - the steepest section on the entire face FA: Daniel Anker & Stephan Siegrist, 1999 FFA: Stephan Siegrist & Ueli Steck, 2003	Alpine 900m, 27
8a	Paciencia 1 6b 2 6a 3 6a+ 4 7b 5 7c+ 6 7a 7 8a 8 7a+ 9 6b+ 10 6a+ 11 6a 12 6a 13 7c+ 14 7b+ 15 7b 16 7a 17 6a 18 7a 19 7b+ 20 7a 21 6c+ 22 6b 23 6b 24 6b FA: Stephan Siegrist & Ueli Steck, 2003 FFA: Ueli Steck, 2008	Alpine 900m, 27
8a	Japaner-Direttissima FA: 1969 FFA: Roger Schaeli & Robert Jasper, 2007	Alpine
7c	Piola-Ghilini-Direttissima The route is probably affected by a rockfall.Please avoid! FA: René Ghilini & Michel Piola, 1983 FFA: Roger Schäli & Robert Jasper, 2013	Alpine 1400m
5 WI5	Heckmair-Route FA: Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Fritz Kasparek & Heinrich Harrer, 1938	Alpine 1500m
7a UK:E5 MIXED:M8	John-Harlin-Direttissima John Harlin lost his life during the first ascent. FA: Dougal Haston, Sigi Hupfauer, Jörg Lehne, Günther Strobel & Roland Votteler, 1966 FFA: Robert Jasper & Roger Schäli, 2010	Alpine 1800m
7 A4 MIXED:M6	Métanoïa FA: Jeff Lowe, 1991	Alpine 1800m
5 WI2 TD	Lauper-Route TD-, rock IV, ice up to 60° FA: Hans Lauper, Alfred Zürcher, Josef Knubel & Alexander Graven, 1932	Alpine 1800m
Jungfrau Region Mönch, 4107m
D	★★★ NW-spur, Nollen-route A long alpine climb with one ice crux (Nollen) half way up. Crux is 2-3 pitches ice climbing of around 50 degrees with shorter passge of 60-70 depending on conditions. After passing Nollen retreat is difficult. Start from Guggi hut 2791m which is reached by hiking from Eiger gletscher train station. Descent via SE-ridge. FA: von Fellenberg, Michel & Egger, 1866	Alpine 1300m
PD	★★★ SE-ridge A nice route with spectacular views. The final ridge is very narrow and exposed. The climb starts up the base of the rocky spur descending south from SE ridge follow this until pt. 3885m. From there the ridge becomes narrow with snow and rock. Some small steps with easy climbing leads ton a snow field which lead up to ridge itself around at 4040m. (on the ridge and snow field there are iron bars placed for protection) Follow ridge to summit 4107m. 1,5h FA: Macdonald, Almer & Anderegg, 1863	Alpine 490m
Jungfrau Region Rottalhorn
6b	Herbstwanderung Equipment: 50m ropes, cams 0.2-3, 0.2-0.75 double, 2 peckers. Ice equipment for Descent Rottalsattel - Jungfraujoch. The first ascentists left a piton in a rappel traverse. Approach: From Stechelberg to the Rottalhütte and from the hut in 45min to the start. FA: Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel & Rolf Zurbrügg, 12 Oct 2023	Alpine 1100m
Schreckhorn
{UIAA} 3+	Südwestgrat (Normalweg) https://www.gipfelbuch.ch/routen/923-schreckhorn-4078m-sw-grat-normalroute	Alpine
Haslital Gelmerhörner Gelmerhorn (Klein-und Gross)
5a	★★ Überschreitung 1 4a 2 4a 3 4 4c 5 4a 6 5a 7 3a Schöne abwechslungsreiche Tour mit alpinem Zu-und Abstieg Div. Abseilstellen 50 Meter Seil, Keil: 2-6, Frinds; 0.5-2 Set: A. Tännler A. Weber, 1901	Alpine 7, 6
5b	Via Classica 1 4c 2 4a 3 5a 4 4b 5 4c 6 4a 7 5b 8 4c 9 5a 10 4b 11 3a 12 5a 13 4a 14 4b 15 4a 16 4c 17 5a 18 3a Gipfel Gross Gelmerhorn 50 M Seil, Keil: 2-8, Frinds; 0.5-1 Set: E. Demeter & T. Wiedmer, 1990	Alpine 18, 8
Telltistock
4a	Westgrat 1 2a 2 3 3 2 4 4a 5 4a 6 3a Short alpine ridge climb. Trad protection necessary (mostly slings, some nuts, maybe cams). The anchors are bolted.	Alpine 6
3	Westgrat Variante rechts 1 2a 2 3 3 2 4 3a 5 3a Easier variant of Westgrat.	Alpine 5
Gross Wellhorn
	Südgrat FA: Niklaus Kohler, Franz Schönholzer & Reinhold Zurbrügg, 1937	Alpine
Engelhörner Simeler
4b	★★★ Überschreitung klein und gross Simeler	Alpine
Windegghütte Windegghorn
5b	Adlerblick 1 5a 2 5b 3 5a 4 3a 5 3a 6 4b 7 4a	Alpine 7
4a	Zaggengrat 1 3c 2 4a 3 4a 4 4a 5 3b 6 3b 7 3c	Alpine 7
Sustenpass Undertalstock
4c	★ Südgrat 1 4c 2 4c 3 4b 4 3a 5 4c 6 4a 7 3c 50 Meter Seil Keile; Ja, Frinds; 0.5-2, Express; 8, Abstieg und 3*25 Meter Abseilen Abstieg über den Grat und dann 3x25 Meter abseilen, Abseilpsite eingerichtet Zweite Seillänge: 4c, 2pa (5c+)	Alpine 7
5b+	Ostwand 1 4c 2 5b+ 3 5a 4 4a 5 3c 50 Meter Seil Keile; Ja, Frinds; 0.5-2, Express; 8, Abstieg und 3*25 Meter Abseilen Abstieg über den Grat und dann 3x25 Meter abseilen, Abseilpsite eingerichtet	Alpine 5
6b+	Oktober Sunne 1 5c 2 6b+ 3 5a 4 4a 5 3c 50 Meter Seil Express; 12, Abstieg und 3*25 Meter Abseilen Abstieg über den Grat und dann 3x25 Meter abseilen, Abseilpsite eingerichtet Ab der 3. Route in die Ostwandtour	Alpine 5
Finsteraarhorn
2	Normalweg https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/hochtour/finsteraarhorn-nomalweg-ueber-suedwestflanke-und-nordwestgrat/	Alpine
{UIAA} 6-	Südostgrat https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/hochtour/finsteraarhorn-suedostgrat/	Alpine

6b

Hintertüre

1 5c 20m

2 6b 30m

3 6a 40m

4 5a 20m

Set: Kobi Schenk & Florian Bowee, 2013

Alpine 110m, 4

5a

★ Südgrat

Alpine 400m, 6

7c

La Vida es Silbar

1 4a

2 5a

3 5a

4 6c+

5 6c+

6 7b

7 7b+

8 7c

9 7b+/c

10 7b+/c

11 6b

12 6b

13 6b

14 6b

15 6a+

16 7a+

17 7a+

18 6c+

19 7b

20 6b+

21 6b+

22 6b

23 6c+

24 6c

25 6b

26 6a

up the Rote Fluh - the steepest section on the entire face

FA: Daniel Anker & Stephan Siegrist, 1999

FFA: Stephan Siegrist & Ueli Steck, 2003

Alpine 900m, 27

8a

Paciencia

1 6b

2 6a

3 6a+

4 7b

5 7c+

6 7a

7 8a

8 7a+

9 6b+

10 6a+

11 6a

12 6a

13 7c+

14 7b+

15 7b

16 7a

17 6a

18 7a

19 7b+

20 7a

21 6c+

22 6b

23 6b

24 6b

FA: Stephan Siegrist & Ueli Steck, 2003

FFA: Ueli Steck, 2008

Alpine 900m, 27

8a

Japaner-Direttissima

FA: 1969

FFA: Roger Schaeli & Robert Jasper, 2007

Alpine

7c

Piola-Ghilini-Direttissima

The route is probably affected by a rockfall.Please avoid!

FA: René Ghilini & Michel Piola, 1983

FFA: Roger Schäli & Robert Jasper, 2013

Alpine 1400m

5 WI5

Heckmair-Route

FA: Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Fritz Kasparek & Heinrich Harrer, 1938

Alpine 1500m

7a UK:E5 MIXED:M8

John-Harlin-Direttissima

John Harlin lost his life during the first ascent.

FA: Dougal Haston, Sigi Hupfauer, Jörg Lehne, Günther Strobel & Roland Votteler, 1966

FFA: Robert Jasper & Roger Schäli, 2010

Alpine 1800m

7 A4 MIXED:M6

Métanoïa

FA: Jeff Lowe, 1991

Alpine 1800m

5 WI2 TD

Lauper-Route

TD-, rock IV, ice up to 60°

FA: Hans Lauper, Alfred Zürcher, Josef Knubel & Alexander Graven, 1932

Alpine 1800m

D

★★★ NW-spur, Nollen-route

A long alpine climb with one ice crux (Nollen) half way up. Crux is 2-3 pitches ice climbing of around 50 degrees with shorter passge of 60-70 depending on conditions. After passing Nollen retreat is difficult. Start from Guggi hut 2791m which is reached by hiking from Eiger gletscher train station. Descent via SE-ridge.

FA: von Fellenberg, Michel & Egger, 1866

Alpine 1300m

PD

★★★ SE-ridge

A nice route with spectacular views. The final ridge is very narrow and exposed. The climb starts up the base of the rocky spur descending south from SE ridge follow this until pt. 3885m. From there the ridge becomes narrow with snow and rock. Some small steps with easy climbing leads ton a snow field which lead up to ridge itself around at 4040m. (on the ridge and snow field there are iron bars placed for protection) Follow ridge to summit 4107m. 1,5h

FA: Macdonald, Almer & Anderegg, 1863

Alpine 490m

6b

Herbstwanderung

Equipment:: 50m ropes, cams 0.2-3, 0.2-0.75 double, 2 peckers. Ice equipment for Descent Rottalsattel - Jungfraujoch. The first ascentists left a piton in a rappel traverse.
Approach:: From Stechelberg to the Rottalhütte and from the hut in 45min to the start.

FA: Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel & Rolf Zurbrügg, 12 Oct 2023

Alpine 1100m

{UIAA} 3+

Südwestgrat (Normalweg)

https://www.gipfelbuch.ch/routen/923-schreckhorn-4078m-sw-grat-normalroute

Alpine

5a

★★ Überschreitung

1 4a

2 4a

3

4 4c

5 4a

6 5a

7 3a

Schöne abwechslungsreiche Tour mit alpinem Zu-und Abstieg Div. Abseilstellen 50 Meter Seil, Keil: 2-6, Frinds; 0.5-2

Set: A. Tännler A. Weber, 1901

Alpine 7, 6

5b

Via Classica

1 4c

2 4a

3 5a

4 4b

5 4c

6 4a

7 5b

8 4c

9 5a

10 4b

11 3a

12 5a

13 4a

14 4b

15 4a

16 4c

17 5a

18 3a

Gipfel Gross Gelmerhorn 50 M Seil, Keil: 2-8, Frinds; 0.5-1

Set: E. Demeter & T. Wiedmer, 1990

Alpine 18, 8

4a

Westgrat

1 2a

2 3

3 2

4 4a

5 4a

6 3a

Short alpine ridge climb. Trad protection necessary (mostly slings, some nuts, maybe cams). The anchors are bolted.

Alpine 6

3

Westgrat Variante rechts

1 2a

2 3

3 2

4 3a

5 3a

Easier variant of Westgrat.

Alpine 5

Südgrat

FA: Niklaus Kohler, Franz Schönholzer & Reinhold Zurbrügg, 1937

Alpine

4b

★★★ Überschreitung klein und gross Simeler

Alpine

5b

Adlerblick

1 5a

2 5b

3 5a

4 3a

5 3a

6 4b

7 4a

Alpine 7

4a

Zaggengrat

1 3c

2 4a

3 4a

4 4a

5 3b

6 3b

7 3c

Alpine 7

4c

★ Südgrat

1 4c

2 4c

3 4b

4 3a

5 4c

6 4a

7 3c

50 Meter Seil Keile; Ja, Frinds; 0.5-2, Express; 8, Abstieg und 3*25 Meter Abseilen Abstieg über den Grat und dann 3x25 Meter abseilen, Abseilpsite eingerichtet Zweite Seillänge: 4c, 2pa (5c+)

Alpine 7

5b+

Ostwand

1 4c

2 5b+

3 5a

4 4a

5 3c

50 Meter Seil Keile; Ja, Frinds; 0.5-2, Express; 8, Abstieg und 3*25 Meter Abseilen Abstieg über den Grat und dann 3x25 Meter abseilen, Abseilpsite eingerichtet

Alpine 5

6b+

Oktober Sunne

1 5c

2 6b+

3 5a

4 4a

5 3c

50 Meter Seil Express; 12, Abstieg und 3*25 Meter Abseilen Abstieg über den Grat und dann 3x25 Meter abseilen, Abseilpsite eingerichtet Ab der 3. Route in die Ostwandtour

Alpine 5

2

Normalweg

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/hochtour/finsteraarhorn-nomalweg-ueber-suedwestflanke-und-nordwestgrat/

Alpine

{UIAA} 6-

Südostgrat

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/hochtour/finsteraarhorn-suedostgrat/

Alpine

Routes as alpine in Berner Oberland

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