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Nodes in Monkey World

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Node
Monkey World

No road access. From Ao Nang hire a longtail boat to take you around to Ton Sai. Boats only operate during the day.

A couple of popular multi-pitch climbs, starting right at the entrance to the bouldering cave.

A couple of popular multi-pitch climbs, starting right at the entrance to the bouldering cave.

New Route

New double-pitch left of the new route from January 2019. Shares the first three bolts on P1, then splits to the left side of the stalactite system. Anchors of P2 are 2m left of the other new route's P2 anchors. Titanium bolts and slings.

This route doesn't seem to be included in any of the guidebooks, yet. Bolted in 2019 or 2020. Please update if you have information about grade, name and bolts.

6b Shoulda Woulda Coulda

New multi-pitch route left of 'Big Wave'. Very sharp rock in some of the easier sections. Not quite as good as 'Big Wave', but definitely a fun climb.

  1. Crux is the first two bolts, climbing up the vertical tufas. Second half is an easy but beautiful 3D climb through the stalactite system. 5 titanium bolts, 7 slings.

  2. Slabby start on sharp rock up to the crux over the bulge. 12 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

  3. Again, some sharp rock at the start. Easy climbing until the steep sustained crux of the route. A few more meters of vertical climbing on very sharp rock. 9 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Descend by rapping down the route. Three raps with a 60m rope.

This route is so far only listed in the 2019 Pocket RockGUIDE as 'New Route 2019 Jan.'. If you have new information about grade and name, please update (bolts and slings are counted, Mar 2020).

6a+ Short Wave

Old route left of 'Big Wave' P2. Old expansion bolts seem to have been removed, and the route has been recycled into the new multi-pitch routes to the left.

6b Big Wave

Shares the start pitch with 'The Beauty & the Beast', then climbs up left for three beautiful and homogeneous pitches.

  1. Start on the left side of the cave. Take the left of the two anchors. 7 titanium bolts.

  2. Climb a bit to the left and straight up. 8 titanium bolts.

  3. Straight up to an anchor in a cave. 8 titanium bolts.

  4. Short traverse to the left, then straight up. You will pass an additional anchor about midway. Lower the leader to this anchor to belay the second climber. 10 titanium bolts.

From the midway anchor of P4 rap down four times with a 60m rope via a line of separate abseil anchors.

6b The Beauty & the Beast

3rd pitch is the beauty, 1st pitch is the beast. The second pitch just connects the two. The first pitch is shared with 'Big Wave'.

  1. Start with a couple of fun, overhanging moves out the left side of the cave, then easier climbing on sharp rock up the buttress. Take the right of the two anchors. 7 titanium bolts.

  2. Go up and sightly right - don't be lured by other bolts going further right. 9 titanium bolt.

  3. This pitch is fun and follows bolts up into a small ledge at a small cave. 12 titanium bolts.

  4. In 2006, Drew Spaulding and Adam Weiner established a 4th pitch, but it is not well equipped without trad gear. Climb up into the corner on gear, threads and a few bolts. Then tunnel up right and under the stalactite umbrella up to the bolted anchor (this pitch needs re-bolting). A wild ride!

From the top of P3, it is also possible to traverse out left, wiggle through a hole in the cave, and finish up on the last pitch of 'Big Wave'. This finish slightly raises the grade, but dramatically increases the fun.

Descend by rapping down three times from the anchor of P3 with a 60m rope.

Single- and double-pitch climbs starting on multiple belay ledges high up. Access by passing 'The Ne

Single- and double-pitch climbs starting on multiple belay ledges high up. Access by passing 'The Nest' sector on the left through a tunnel and scrambling up some boulders. Then climb up a fixed rope for about 8m and follow the trail to the left until you reach the fixed rope to the first belay ledge with three double-pitch climbs. Find a fixed rope to reach the second lower ledge with three more lines. The first five climbs start from a higher ledge accessed by climbing 'Stoned Monkey'.

6b+ Monkey Bizness

The leftmost line on the upper belay ledge. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

7c Holy Wall

Second pitch of 'Monkey Bizness'. Old expansion bolts. Do not climb!

6c+ Grease Monkey

Starts on the upper belay ledge, right of 'Monkey Bizness'. 7 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

7a White Monkey Holding Peach Balm

Starts on the upper belay ledge, left of 'Fung Ling'. Single-move crux. 8 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

6b Fung Ling

Starts on the right side of the upper belay ledge, left of 'Monkey Bars'. 7 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

6b Monkey Bars

Starts on the very right of the upper belay ledge. Can also be accessed from the anchor of the first pitch of 'Monkeying Around'. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

6b Stoned Monkey

The leftmost line on the second ledge. Gives access to the upper belay ledge. 7 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

6a+ Aw Shucks

The middle line on the second belay ledge. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

6a+ Porch Monkey

The rightmost line on the second belay ledge. 10 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

6c+ Monkeying Around

The leftmost of the three double-pitches starting from the lower belay ledge.

  1. In some guidebooks this pitch is named 'Barrel of Monkeys' and only the second pitch is called 'Monkeying Around'. 8 titanium bolts.

  2. 11 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend by rapping down twice with a 60m rope, back to the belay ledge.

6b Chunky Monkey

The second line on the lower belay ledge. Great first pitch on steep rock with big holds. It is also possible to linkup the second pitch of 'Curious George'.

  1. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

  2. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Descend by rapping down twice with a 60m rope, back to the belay ledge. Share anchor with Curious George.

6b Curious George

The rightmost line on the lower belay ledge. Enjoyable double-pitch, especially the second pitch.

  1. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

  2. 8 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Descend by rapping down twice with a 60m rope, back to the belay ledge. Share anchor with Chunky Monkey.

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