Clogwyn y Grochan Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Ian.Grabowski John Stringer Steve Bell Hywel Rowlands Jim Croft Philip Armstrong jackie prosser @clams Campbell Gome Will Miles

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1. Clogwyn y Grochan 19 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Clogwyn y Grochan 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.094320, -4.060692

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Phantom Rib FA: G W S Pigott, M Kennedy-Frazer & W H Stock, 1949	VS 4c	Trad 56m, 4
2	★★ Nea FA: N E Morin & J M Edwards, 1941	VS 4b	Trad 75m, 4
3	★★★ Spectre Rockfax Description The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS. Start at the toe of the left-hand buttress. Climb the slab to gain the thin crack. Follow this up to a small ledge on the right. Head straight up to the right-hand end of the large ledge that Nea starts from, and traverse rightwards below the holly tree. Then climb easily up to a ledge and belay below an open groove. Follow the crack up the back of the groove. This proves a bit of a tussle until stood on a sloping ledge about 8m up. From here, make a puzzling traverse up and left around the arete to finally pull onto the slab above. Head up and right to a large flake and belay below an intimidating wide slot. If you have planned ahead, then this is your mate's lead! Move up to the slot where a long sling and basketball skills will allow you to thread the chockstone from below. Prepare for battle and wade into the wide crack. Having succeeded it still requires a steady head to continue up the fist-crack to the ledge above. Finish as for P3 of Nea (ed. Up left easily OR rap off the tatt at end of P3) . © ROCKFAX FA: P R J Harding & E H Phillips, 1947	HVS 5a	Trad 90m, 4
4	★★ Spectrum FA: R Edwards, D Mellor & M Boysen, 1965 FFA: G Regan, 1975	E2 5c	Trad 85m, 5
5	S S Special As per P2 of 'Sickle'. As per P3 of 'Nea' . FA: D Roberts, P Williams & B Dunne, 1977	E2 5b	Trad 74m, 3
6	Sickle As per P3 'Nea' FA: J Brown & D Cowan, 1953	HVS 5b	Trad 77m, 4
7	★★★ Brant Direct Either continue up P2 of 'Brant' or belay on the right and abseil off. FA: P R J Harding, J I Disley, P R Hodgkinson & G Dyke, 1949	HVS 5a	Trad 23m
8	Cockblock FA: J M Redhead, C Shorter & K Robertson, 1980	E5 6b	Trad 23m
9	★ Slape Direct FA: M W Harvey & D J Abbott, 1954	E2 5c	Trad 21m
10	★★ First Amendment FA: D Roberts & P Williams, 1978	E2 5c	Trad 45m, 2
11	Brant FA: J M Edwards & J E Q Barford, 1940	VS 4c	Trad 110m, 4
12	★★ Surplomb FA: J Brown & D D Whillans, 1953 FFA: P Gordon, 1959	E2 6a	Trad 39m, 2
13	★★ Stroll On FA: R Fawcett & P Livesey, 1976	E3 6a	Trad 40m
14	★★ Hangover FA: J Brown, R Greenall, M T Sorrell & F Ashton, 1951	E1 5b	Trad 45m, 2
15	★★★ Quasar FA: J Moran, A Evans & E Marshall, 1977	E3 6a	Trad 37m
16	Quantum Jump FA: R Fawcett, 1979	E5 6b	Trad 37m
17	★★ Karwendel Wall FA: H I Banner, J O'Neill & R Beesly, 1958	HVS 5b	Trad 34m
18	★★ Kaiserbirge Wall FA: P R J Harding, J I Disley & A J J Moulam, 1948	HVS 5b	Trad 30m
19	★ Wind FA: M E Crook & J Moran, 1977	HVS 5b	Trad 27m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
VS 4b	★★	Nea	Trad 75m, 4
VS 4c		Brant	Trad 110m, 4
	★★	Phantom Rib	Trad 56m, 4
HVS 5a	★★★	Brant Direct	Trad 23m
	★★★	Spectre	Trad 90m, 4
HVS 5b	★★	Kaiserbirge Wall	Trad 30m
	★★	Karwendel Wall	Trad 34m
		Sickle	Trad 77m, 4
	★	Wind	Trad 27m
E1 5b	★★	Hangover	Trad 45m, 2
E2 5b		S S Special	Trad 74m, 3
E2 5c	★★	First Amendment	Trad 45m, 2
	★	Slape Direct	Trad 21m
	★★	Spectrum	Trad 85m, 5
E2 6a	★★	Surplomb	Trad 39m, 2
E3 6a	★★★	Quasar	Trad 37m
	★★	Stroll On	Trad 40m
E5 6b		Cockblock	Trad 23m
		Quantum Jump	Trad 37m

Clogwyn y Grochan Guide

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Clogwyn y Grochan 19 routes in Crag

2. Index by grade