Ascents in The Embankment having Beta

The line we most worried about climbing. Wicked finger crack slab that was finger locking fun to a tricky move before the crack fused up and your faced with a 5 m traverse and run out to the top. Brilliant...

Only first Pitch.

Pitch 1 was a combination of pink point flash and onsight as my partner failed to complete the pitch. P2 is great climbing although many don't bother with this pitch.

This is a must do for sure!!! Splitter finger crack climbing a long but slabby pin scar crack. Sections of the crack are just two finger vertical pockets stacked on top of on another. Stella

Of the two E1 finger cracks on this wall, I think this was the best, though Jenga disagrees. Less straightforward than its partner, more technical and fiddlier gear, this was my tick of the day. I recommend bringing C3s for this beauty.

First pitch

got rained on!!

Lead P1

First Pitch.

Last of the Emb. I had yet to climb...yaay!:) climbs well

Warm up crack fun. A good introduction to the splitter climbing here. A wee bit chilly this morning.

My first trad lead years ago!:)

Flash placing gear. Very pure finger crack climbing (I must've spent 20min stuck on the last hard crack move) to a stance, then time to get your BOLD on. Traversing miles away from your last bit of gear and then committing to the hardest move of the route is gripping. Stoked with this one, felt mentally demanding, and keeping it together for the technical finale is tough.

I had some beta from Ian but was still gripped AF...tough crack and tricky moves on the runout part

Not as hard as it looks, and much more fun. Plenty of rests and stances but some hard locking inbetween. Lead on Paul's gear.

Flashed on Jengas gear. If you haven't climbed a technical finger crack before, this is the one to do! Great gear, technical movement, sustained. I actually fell when a footer slipped, but perfect finger locks meant I wasn't going anywhere!

The best of the embankments? Fell off it years ago on the OS, cruised right up it this time! Awesome seeing the progress without really not doing much trad recently!

Flashed on Jengas gear. Pretty good for a warm up. A few tricky moves, and interesting all the way.

Done without using the slot (v3 in the guide, but the softest v3 in the world, if it is). Some nice pure arête bouldering, but getting down is sketchier than the boulder.

Cool little boulder arête problem.

Eh, I wanted to go for the version direct to the tree, but chickened out, the version mentioned in the BMC guide to finish towards embankment 3 felt a bit more secure, so there I went. I'd not take E3 for this version as it was a cop-out.

Finally came back for it

Clean jamming all the way, this time!

Circa 1990

Sustained.

Circa 1990

Really nice line, need to lead it next

Not quite as good as embankment 4, and a little constructed, but good finger jam practice

First pitch

nice easy one to finish the day

Jams at the back made this more chill for me than the leader

Painful and desperate. This was a struggle all the way

P1 only

I've lead E1s that felt easier, but harvest_mouse got up there pretty quickly (albeit with a rest or two). Will learn to jam