Ascents in Swanage having Beta

With one take & a big deadpoint at the crux. One to come back for.

I have no head game. Nice climb though

Took a couple times. Nice route though

Could not do the crux between the 4th & 5th bolt. Maybe in better connies

Used the 6a+ variant.

Ultra polished so went for the send at night. Classic route.

Lead - chockney (cattle trough) v diff Lead - inspiration (cattle trough) s Second - fallen block climb v diff Second - curving crack (subliminal) S

moist and polished + loose block at the top

Actually led this the other day, thinking I was on suspension

Took the direct finish (severe)

Variation on the route climbed a little harder.

Looked improbable for the grade, but everything is there when you need it. Protection, holds, you name it, you can find it.

Definitely harder than second corner. Slippery up high.

Finally came back to finish this route 5 years after first trying it.

Really amazing route with juggy holds in all the right places. Loved every second. Went second go.

HVS variation. Fell in the middle, then finished clean.

VS variation. Slipped at the opening moves.

Actually felt easier than double chock stone

Loved the climb, but it felt insecure in the chimney.

Second visit on this.still working on it.bit short for it.

Got confused at the routes; thought we were on an E1, and thought it was remarkably easy.

Fell once at the crux.

Thought this was a 6B so got on it for a burn. Was the end of the day so ended up dogging it all the way to the top hah. Once i got down and realised by checking the book it made me feel a little better. Would love to get back on this with a full tank to give it a better go. Wicked fun route. Hard but fun!

Really enjoyed this climb but had to rest at the middle crux unfortunately. Will be back to send this another time! Brilliant route and really wicked moved throughout. Would recommend!

Loved it. Sent it properly today. Took me a few goes at the dyno but managed it eventually and made a nice clean send, and one more for good measure.

Found this harder than I was expecting but enjoyed the route. Will give it a better go next time now I know where the holds are

What a stunning climb, wild and improbable – couldn’t stop grinning from the niche up. (With the polished holds sweating a bit in the heat, I’d say not an easy HVS, and a sustained 5a at least? Felt like a French 6b.)

First E1 – but felt more like HVS 5a/4c. A mini-epic, partner fell out of the beginning of the upper crack on p1, left hanging under the overhang unable to reach it. P1 fun, p2 a one-move pony – Rockfax says “bold” twice in the description of p2, which is twice too many.

This route has one of my favourite moves. Great start and awesome crux.

Did this ages ago. One move wonder

Quite enjoyed this traverse style route up the crack. Not going to lie though when I initially did it years ago, felt as if I was going to ping off multiple times for uncomfortable falls.

Nice start, exposed awkward crack at the top

A ladder. beginners

super easy/a ladder, good for a v. beginner

Comfortable top rope, one to come back to

nice warm up, probably an S

Pumpy, but the hand holds are there, a couple of big exposed moves. Def a VS. fav Climb at Swange

Comfort start, runout awkward crack to finish, hard gear placement at the top

run out, thin crack climb, not one to start the day on

Came back for the tick after falling at the peg first go. A nice route of varying style.

A beautiful line. Great movement most of the way, but be wary of the topout.

I put this up sometime in 1988. Loose finish but superb position, not technically hard for the grade.

Fabulous route with a high first bolt, but holds are great and nice ending.

Nice route with a committing crux