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Salamander Slab

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 41

Seasonality

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Description

Located above a concave section, there exists a fantastic series of routes with more challenging direct variations also accessible. Upon ascending to the upper wall, there are breathtaking opportunities to walk through the air, provided you can access them. Further to the right is a substantial roof, which houses Carbide Finger and other forceful roof climbs.

Ethic inherited from Bowles Rocks

We strongly advise using liquid chalk whenever possible.

Prior to beginning your climb, ensure that your climbing shoes are clean. To do so, it's necessary to use a mat or a piece of carpet to wipe your feet. This measure will significantly decrease the damage to the crag caused by wear and tear.

To set up a top-rope belay, use a non-stretch sling and be sure to keep the Karabiner positioned over the crag's edge. Avoid allowing the moving rope to make contact with the rock, as is typical of all sandstone crags.

Do not employ boulder brushes or toothbrushes to clean the rock, as this will cause damage and make it more difficult to climb.

Ensure that your dogs are kept on a leash and not permitted to wander freely.

Routes

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Grade Route

Use a squirming or bridging technique to ascend the chimney.

Use Abracadabra to ascend above the overhang. Proceed towards the left for a short distance, then scale the blunt nose using a direct approach. Upon reaching the ledge above, move towards the left and conclude the climb by scaling the broad crack of Swastika.

Initiate the climb by any feasible method and proceed towards the upper wall, situated between the unclear groove of Swastika and the blunt nose of Nightmare, and continue until reaching the tree. Finally, conclude the climb by scaling the broad crack positioned above.

Scale the overhang located 1.5 metres towards the left of Abracadabra, using the prominent circular pocket. You can conclude the climb at your convenience, but the recommended path is to merge with Recurring Nightmare for the most natural ascent.

This is the most favoured roof climb in the area. Begin by surging towards the sizable flake, then shift towards the right and propel yourself upwards to reach the slopers. Immediately attempt to land your palm onto the break above. Finish by ascending any of the available routes situated above.

This is a brief yet strenuous climb up the middle of the wall, utilising pockets. Multiple techniques can be employed. Complete by transitioning to the left slab.

Begin like Manita and traverse around to climb the right side of the arete. Finish with Manita or attempt a direct finish up the wall (6c 6a).

Ascend the steep headwall's left side with some awkward moves, starting from the ledge on Jackie.

Start with a jump for a good hold or up the rounded arete to the left. Then go straight up the middle and tackle the centre of the steep headwall directly.

A variation starting from Sing Sing, going up the slab right of Jackie, and finishing on Jackie itself.

This challenging route requires two top-rope set-ups for safety. Follow Nero and traverse right before finishing steeply past a rotten tree stump. An escape rope may be necessary since the stump is unusable.

Climb steeply, following the crack to its end. Traverse up and right over the bulges on good holds and finish left of the top block.

Traverse right from Sing Sing or Jackie, past the crack, to reach the largest pocket on the face. Climb up to the break, step right and finish up the wide crack. Untested bolt runners make the route leadable for experienced climbers.

Start from Perspiration and end at relatively large holds.

Ascend straight towards a square hole under the lip, then surmount it and pass by the large letterbox ledge or poor jug to reach a rail and the wall above. It is acceptable to use the arete higher up, unless you want to strictly adhere to the original route. Finish with Perspiration or Peter's Perseverance.

Climb the roof located 2 metres right of Perspiration and use the very short vertical crack to gain a foothold above it. The route finishes anywhere, but it is recommended to finish as for Boiling Point through the bulges to the right of the wide crack at the top.

Technically less difficult than Them Monkey Things but requires more endurance. The roof is climbed using a thin crack, undercuts, and square-cut holds, and getting over the lip presents a challenge. Finish up Perspiration or Peter's Perseverance.

Start directly from the large flat jug to climb Murph's Mount.

Boulder problem to start Nero or Salamander Slab, raising both routes to 6c+ if linked.

Blindly slap through the roof and reach the first break for a tick. For the complete experience, continue through and finish on Salamander Slab at a grade of 7a 6b.

Ascend the overhanging crack gradually and continue upwards with ease. At the top ledge, choose between a direct finish or traverse right to an easier crack.

Begin by attempting the routes named Abracadabra or Thieving Gypsies. Then, ascend the protruding wall positioned two meters to the right of the rounded tip by reaching out with an extended arm and complete the climb in a direct manner.

Utilize Abracadabra to ascend above the overhang, subsequently traverse towards the left for a distance of 5 metres, until reaching a hazy groove situated in the centre of the face. Climb the groove towards the ledge, take a slight right step, and finish by scaling the broad crack.

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Wed 10 May
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