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The Candy Bar Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Eric Foltz Bernii rick Kole Dominie Writt Mary A. Woods Audrey William Skea

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. The Candy Bar 123 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 34.026428, -116.150596

ethic

Be aware that you are climbing and staying in a National Park. Certain rules apply for climbers regarding climbing and camping, please make sure to get the latest rules once you enter the park.

inherited from Joshua Tree National Park

1.1. Mounds 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 34.025814, -116.152137

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Deep Throat 5.9 Unknown
2 Behind The Green Door 5.10d Unknown
3 Caligula 5.9 Trad
4 Eff Eight 5.8 Unknown

1.2. Little Hunk 66 routes in Area

Summary:
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 34.026815, -116.151974

1.2.1. West Face 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Top 40 To Middle Toilet 5.9 Unknown
2 Go For Broke 5.8 Trad
3 Trespassers Will Be Violated 5.10c Trad 130ft
4 Crash Course 5.10b Unknown
5 Torturer´s Apprentice 5.10b Trad 170ft
6 Gunshy 5.11b Unknown
7 Official Rubber Tester 5.12a Unknown
8 The Compassion of the Elephants 5.10c Trad 100ft
9 Perverts in Power 5.9 Unknown
10 Abstract Roller Disco 5.11a Unknown
11 Tin God 5.10d Unknown
12 Feeling Groovy 5.10a Unknown
13 Exhibit A 5.10a Unknown

1.2.2. East Face 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Disrythmia 5.12a Sport
2 The New Deal

The New Deal is the first 5.14a established by an American. Scott Cosgrove did the first ascent on Super Bowl Sunday January 31st, 1988 and he suggested the grade of 5.13d. It took 22 years for the New Deal to see a second ascent. Alan Moore repeated the New Deal in 2010 and suggested the grade of 5.14a. Video of second ascent.

FA: Scott Cosgrove, 1988

5.13d/14a Sport
3 White Mischief 5.12b Sport
4 Cashews Will Be Eaten 5.8 Trad
5 Unsolved Mystery 5.10d Trad
6 Energy Crisis 5.10b Trad
7 Police & Thieves 5.11c Trad
8 TVC15 5.9 Trad
9 Team Scumbag 5.10b Trad
10 ZZZZZ 5.9 Trad
11 Electric Blue 5.11c Sport
12 Power Line 5.7 Trad
13 Power Lichen 5.10b Trad
14 Flower Power 5.9 Trad
15 Power Drop 5.10b Trad
16 Functional Analysis 5.11d Trad
17 Electralux 5.9 Trad
18 Blue Diamond 5.10b Trad

1.2.3. Northeast Face 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.027600, -116.152890

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Revenge of the Chuckwalla 5.11c Unknown
2 Return of the Chuckwalla 5.10c Unknown
3 Swain-Buckey 5.10d Unknown
4 Playing Hookey 5.10a Unknown
5 Shady Grove 5.10c Unknown
6 The Cheez-It 5.10d Unknown
7 Move To the Groove 5.10c Unknown
8 Groove Avoidance System 5.10a Unknown
9 Midnight Dreamer 5.9 Unknown
10 Midnight Rambler 5.9 Unknown
11 Cryogenics 5.11c Unknown
12 Gentlemen Adventure 5.9 Unknown
13 Gentlemen Bumblies 5.9 Unknown

1.2.4. The Chair 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.026100, -116.150390

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ordinary Route 5.11a Unknown
2 Ladder Back 5.10b Unknown
3 Take a Seat 5.10b Unknown

1.2.5. Right Side (Southwest End) 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 34.026900, -116.152690

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roast Leg of Chair 5.7 Trad
2 Right Between The Eyes 5.7 Trad
3 White Line Fever 5.9 Unknown
4 Roofing Company 5.10a Unknown
5 Monkey Business 5.8 Trad
6 Wage and Price Ceiling 5.10d Unknown
7 Space Slot 5.10a Unknown
8 Point of No Return 5.10c Unknown

1.2.6. North Side 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

access issues

There are several Native American sites. Please respect any route closures.

approach

Approach the same as West Face, follow around left of dome and into sandy wash. Keep following wash around to right.

1.2.6.1. Right Wall 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

summary

Wall faces north and is in shade all day.

approach

First wall reached from previous approach description.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Power Line

From boulder onto ledge. Head right, up into crack.

FA: Randy Vogel & Bob Dominick, 1976

5.7 Trad 80ft
2 Incandescent

Start on boulder, following water polished edges. Bolt anchor.

FA: Bob Gaines & Patty Kline, 2011

5.7 Sport 70ft, 7

1.2.7. The Solarium 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 34.026579, -116.152100

summary

Fun series of well bolted sport climbs.

description

In sun all day.

approach

Right of Abstract Roller Disco, 50 feet above Valley on big ledge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Uppercut

Bolted anchor

5.10c Mixed trad 100ft, 2
2 Broken Hearted

same anchor as Tim's Valentine

5.10d Sport 65ft, 4
3 Remembering Marina

same anchor as Tim's Valentine

5.10a Sport 65ft, 4
4 Fresh Step

same anchor as Tim's Valentine

5.10a Top rope 60ft
5 Tim's Valentine

Slab with scabs and edges. Bolt anchor.

FA: Bob Gaines & Patty Kline, 2009

5.7 Sport 60ft, 6
6 Witness Stand 5.11a Sport 50ft, 6
7 Alibi 5.11b Sport 50ft, 4
8 Out of order 5.10c Sport 50ft, 3
9 Exhibit A 5.10a Mixed trad 45ft, 1

1.3. Big Hunk 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.027398, -116.150900

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tobin Bias 5.6 Unknown
2 Wish You Were Here 5.10c Unknown
3 Electric Eye 5.11b Unknown
4 Railroad 5.11a Unknown
5 Finger Food 5.10b Unknown
6 Try I, You'll Like It 5.10a Unknown

1.4. Snickers 27 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.024758, -116.149881

1.4.1. North Face 10 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Norwegian Wood 5.9 Unknown
2 Frankenwood 5.7 Unknown
3 Funny Bone 5.8 Unknown
4 Don't Think Just Jump 5.10a Unknown
5 Knight Shift 5.10d Unknown
6 Crime of the Century 5.11a Unknown
7 Two Flew the Coop 5.11a Unknown
8 Alpine Diversions 5.11b Unknown
9 Death by Chocolate 5.11b Unknown
10 Souls of Black 5.11d Unknown

1.4.2. South Face 17 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 When You're Not a Jet 5.10b Unknown
2 Iron Maiden 5.11d Unknown
3 When You're Erect 5.12a Unknown
4 Funny Money 5.8 Unknown
5 Rock Shark 5.11a Unknown
6 Henny Penny 5.10d Unknown
7 When You're a Jet 5.11c Unknown
8 Toxic Wateland 5.10d Unknown
9 Grain Death 5.9 Unknown
10 Extra Chunky 5.10b Unknown
11 Cayenne 5.11c Unknown
12 Sweet Ginger 5.11b Unknown
13 Sweet Eternity 5.11c Unknown
14 Fooling Myself 5.8 Unknown
15 Swimming In A Sea of Deception 5.10b Unknown
16 Art of Deception 5.11b Unknown
17 Sun Bowl 5.13a Unknown

1.5. Sandworm Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.025560, -116.148508

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sandworm 5.10c Unknown
2 Master & Servant 5.11d Unknown

1.6. Dweeb Spire 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Disobedience School 5.10c Unknown

1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.023821, -116.151247

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kendall Mint Cake 5.6 Trad
2 Squirrel Roast 5.8 Trad
3 Sugar Daddy 5.9 Trad
4 Nestle Crunch 5.10c Unknown
5 Chicken Bones 5.4 Unknown
6 Jolly Rancher Firestix 5.10d Unknown
7 Chick Flakey 5.11b Unknown
8 Lips Like Sugar 5.10b Unknown
9 Flake Hicky 5.7 Trad
10 M & M's Peanut 5.10a Trad
11 M & M's Plain 5.9 Trad
12 Crème Egg 5.9 Unknown
13 Little Rock Candy Crack 5.7 Unknown
14 McStumpy Sandwich 5.9 Trad
15 The Three Musketeers 5.7 Trad

1.8. More Funky Than Monkey 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 More Monkey Than Funky 5.11c Unknown
2 Monsey 5.11d Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.4 Chicken Bones Unknown 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
5.6 Tobin Bias Unknown 1.3. Big Hunk
Kendall Mint Cake Trad 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
5.7 Power Line Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Right Between The Eyes Trad 1.2.5. Right Side (Southwest End)
Roast Leg of Chair Trad 1.2.5. Right Side (Southwest End)
Incandescent Sport 70ft, 7 1.2.6.1. Right Wall
Power Line Trad 80ft 1.2.6.1. Right Wall
Tim's Valentine Sport 60ft, 6 1.2.7. The Solarium
Frankenwood Unknown 1.4.1. North Face
Flake Hicky Trad 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
Little Rock Candy Crack Unknown 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
The Three Musketeers Trad 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
5.8 Eff Eight Unknown 1.1. Mounds
Go For Broke Trad 1.2.1. West Face
Cashews Will Be Eaten Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Monkey Business Trad 1.2.5. Right Side (Southwest End)
Funny Bone Unknown 1.4.1. North Face
Fooling Myself Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Funny Money Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Squirrel Roast Trad 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
5.9 Caligula Trad 1.1. Mounds
Deep Throat Unknown 1.1. Mounds
Perverts in Power Unknown 1.2.1. West Face
Top 40 To Middle Toilet Unknown 1.2.1. West Face
Electralux Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Flower Power Trad 1.2.2. East Face
TVC15 Trad 1.2.2. East Face
ZZZZZ Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Gentlemen Adventure Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Gentlemen Bumblies Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Midnight Dreamer Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Midnight Rambler Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
White Line Fever Unknown 1.2.5. Right Side (Southwest End)
Norwegian Wood Unknown 1.4.1. North Face
Grain Death Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Crème Egg Unknown 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
M & M's Plain Trad 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
McStumpy Sandwich Trad 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
Sugar Daddy Trad 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
5.10a Exhibit A Unknown 1.2.1. West Face
Feeling Groovy Unknown 1.2.1. West Face
Groove Avoidance System Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Playing Hookey Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Roofing Company Unknown 1.2.5. Right Side (Southwest End)
Space Slot Unknown 1.2.5. Right Side (Southwest End)
Exhibit A Mixed trad 45ft, 1 1.2.7. The Solarium
Fresh Step Top rope 60ft 1.2.7. The Solarium
Remembering Marina Sport 65ft, 4 1.2.7. The Solarium
Try I, You'll Like It Unknown 1.3. Big Hunk
Don't Think Just Jump Unknown 1.4.1. North Face
M & M's Peanut Trad 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
5.10b Crash Course Unknown 1.2.1. West Face
Torturer´s Apprentice Trad 170ft 1.2.1. West Face
Blue Diamond Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Energy Crisis Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Power Drop Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Power Lichen Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Team Scumbag Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Ladder Back Unknown 1.2.4. The Chair
Take a Seat Unknown 1.2.4. The Chair
Finger Food Unknown 1.3. Big Hunk
Extra Chunky Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Swimming In A Sea of Deception Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
When You're Not a Jet Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Lips Like Sugar Unknown 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
5.10c The Compassion of the Elephants Trad 100ft 1.2.1. West Face
Trespassers Will Be Violated Trad 130ft 1.2.1. West Face
Move To the Groove Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Return of the Chuckwalla Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Shady Grove Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Point of No Return Unknown 1.2.5. Right Side (Southwest End)
Out of order Sport 50ft, 3 1.2.7. The Solarium
Uppercut Mixed trad 100ft, 2 1.2.7. The Solarium
Wish You Were Here Unknown 1.3. Big Hunk
Sandworm Unknown 1.5. Sandworm Rock
Disobedience School Unknown 1.6. Dweeb Spire
Nestle Crunch Unknown 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
5.10d Behind The Green Door Unknown 1.1. Mounds
Tin God Unknown 1.2.1. West Face
Unsolved Mystery Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Swain-Buckey Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
The Cheez-It Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Wage and Price Ceiling Unknown 1.2.5. Right Side (Southwest End)
Broken Hearted Sport 65ft, 4 1.2.7. The Solarium
Knight Shift Unknown 1.4.1. North Face
Henny Penny Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Toxic Wateland Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Jolly Rancher Firestix Unknown 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
5.11a Abstract Roller Disco Unknown 1.2.1. West Face
Ordinary Route Unknown 1.2.4. The Chair
Witness Stand Sport 50ft, 6 1.2.7. The Solarium
Railroad Unknown 1.3. Big Hunk
Crime of the Century Unknown 1.4.1. North Face
Two Flew the Coop Unknown 1.4.1. North Face
Rock Shark Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
5.11b Gunshy Unknown 1.2.1. West Face
Alibi Sport 50ft, 4 1.2.7. The Solarium
Electric Eye Unknown 1.3. Big Hunk
Alpine Diversions Unknown 1.4.1. North Face
Death by Chocolate Unknown 1.4.1. North Face
Art of Deception Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Sweet Ginger Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Chick Flakey Unknown 1.7. Little Rock Candy Mountain
5.11c Electric Blue Sport 1.2.2. East Face
Police & Thieves Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Cryogenics Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Revenge of the Chuckwalla Unknown 1.2.3. Northeast Face
Cayenne Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Sweet Eternity Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
When You're a Jet Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
More Monkey Than Funky Unknown 1.8. More Funky Than Monkey
5.11d Functional Analysis Trad 1.2.2. East Face
Souls of Black Unknown 1.4.1. North Face
Iron Maiden Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
Master & Servant Unknown 1.5. Sandworm Rock
Monsey Unknown 1.8. More Funky Than Monkey
5.12a Official Rubber Tester Unknown 1.2.1. West Face
Disrythmia Sport 1.2.2. East Face
When You're Erect Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
5.12b White Mischief Sport 1.2.2. East Face
5.13a Sun Bowl Unknown 1.4.2. South Face
5.13d/14a The New Deal Sport 1.2.2. East Face
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