Route as trad in Harding's Chimney

1. 80 ft (5.3) Climb the ramp up the right side of The Fang to roof at the base of the chimney.

2. 70 ft (5.8 R) Shuffle your way up the squeeze chimney to the next belay. Unless you're racking #4 Big Bros, get your head set for a 50 ft runout.

3. 150 ft (5.7) Face climbing up and left takes you to a narrow gully ending in the South Notch.

4. 140 ft (5.7) (Same last pitch as 'Scheister'[20650525].) Starting from the north side of the notch, climb the arch past one bolt and continue up a narrow gully to a tunnel. Pass through the tunnel to the west side, where several 4th class and 5.easy variations lead to the Middle Summit.

Walk off descent.

Variations:

• (5.10a) Once you reach the notch at the top of P3, take a brief detour up the 'South Summit Bolt Ladder'[241238709] for an additional summit.
• (5.8) Instead passing through the tunnel on P4, climb up and right past the bolt on the east face to stem your way to the summit.

Pro to 3" with doubles in the larger sizes. Bring 9"-10" pro if you have it.