Routes as trad in Calico Basin

Start on block below rotten crack, climb along bolt line up and leftwards.

A narrow crack on a slab about 10 feet to the left of the corner. Fun and easy, can probably be led with all passive gear.

Starts about 10' left of Abbey road -- look for a couple bolts in the slabby face.

Very very run-out on lead, bad ground-fall potential, poor gear other than the widely spaced bolts.

Crack is generally too shallow for jamming but lots of face moves keep the climbing pretty mellow. Protection is tricky with lots of passive placements and generally small cams. Tricams will work here. Bolted anchors.

I really liked this route as a lead. It is 5.8 if you use holds on the face, 5.9 if you stay in the crack. Protection is abundant although there are a couple of run outs.

Climb the large varnished corner on the left side.

P1: start on scrubby vertical arête with lots of features and a crack for pro. Follow crack past small roof to ledge. P2: Move right to steep corner crack and continue to top. Rap station is on the backside, to the right.

A tight corner that goes through a roof and continues up a crack to the bolted anchors of the first pitch of Physical Graffiti.

About 1/2 way up Lil Red, face climb across to a long crack system and follow it to the top.

Not really part of Ranch Hands Crag, this is up above Ranch Hands and Dickie Cliff -- about mid-way between the two of them.

A clean-cut right-facing corner.