Ascents in Churning Buttress having Beta

Another couple of bashes up the sickest thing in existence.

First attempt was an absolute dog fest. Second I made some links and saw some progress, a few bits at top I havent figured out....

On our last day got it pretty well dialed to one fall. Took one of the bigger whips of my life punting off the jug before the final hard moves. Next time I’m in North America this will be high on the list for sure.

Doesn’t get much better!

So many pockets. Keen to go for the send next time

All bricked up and nowhere to go. A nice day of sampling some harder stuff tho

Super easy till a rough boulder at the anchor

I now understand the popularity, what a line. Might keep tickling this while I'm here but wow what a pumpfest.

First try was good: climbed up from the ground to the 6th draw and clipped it, then fell. Then climbed from the 5th draw up to the anchor. Fell again at the same place in the second try, but feeling already quite a bit more pumped than before.

Finally some good tries where I couldn't complain about my skin or the temperature. Only managed it with one rest, though.

Only climbed until the 5th bolt (a little bit higher). But even until there did not do all the moves really. Seems like it could be nice, but need to get stronger first.

Nice extension. I enjoyed it more than the part below even.

I think it is harder than 11b. Talked to someone who has done this route before and he said an undercling in the crux broke off.

My skin started hurting again on the crimps in the upper section...

Hard and reachy crux before the anchors. Someone told us that a hold broke.

Too hard for warm up, then it was too hot. Did a final try in the evening but my skin hurt so much I couldn't even really pull onto the route.

First try was not great, but I improved my beta a bit. I felt not good on my second try (maybe too much sun or too little water), and the perma draws might have core-shot our rope (we're not quite sure, it might also have been the draws in Magic Light), so I didn't try again today.

The moves are all okay, putting them together will get hard. Climbed on toprope just past the fourth draw with freezing fingers (out of 7 draws + anchor) on my second try.

Just managed it fourth go of the day and last go before the snow was coming in. It felt quite hard after a year of bouldering. I think I spent maybe four days on it and had a number of goes somewhere in the mid to high teens. The shot before I sent ended with me not quite catching the clipping jug at the anchors, peeling off backwards, and whipping the entire route having skipped the last bolt. Exciting! I hopped back on soon after because i’d hurt my ankle a bit hitting the wall and didn’t want it to stiffen up. Classic scenes in the park.

Fairly mild climbing that finishes with harder moves on crimps and tricky foot moves. Lots of chalk can suck you out up and left so be careful about pendulum swings.

Seems I’ve found myself a project

Hard crux for sure if you stay on the right line.

Hard just before anchor. Full on burly!!

A hard boulder sequence after an easier start. Somehow got through with a stupid sequence.

2nd go after being too pumped to see an obvious foot the first time.

Hard one! SO good

A good climb. Not great but worth putting the shoes on for

3rd try.