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Upper Main Wall Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 13

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Hard Landin' Brandon Bing Ascender Wallin Jason Liebgott Mark Hateley Gary K ben reardon Pavel Burov

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Upper Main Wall 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.925934, -120.463443

access issues

Access to some of the crags at Table Mountain can be tenuous, with some crags on private property and some of the access trails crossing private property. Make sure to check the Access Fund (http://status.accessfund.org/) for current restrictions, and always be respectful of the property owners.

inherited from Table Mountain
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ejection Seat

Starting from the top of 'Hole In The Wall', power through the sustained overhang to the 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: John Williams, 1994

5.12a Sport 8
2 The Bombadier / Accessive Force

2-bolt top anchor. 7th bolt can be difficult to clip.

FFA: Tom Addison, 1994

5.13a Sport 7
3 Flight Simulator

From the top anchor of 'AC Devil Dog' and 'Table Manners', look for the bolt to the right marking the beginning of the route. Manage the pump through the overhang to the 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Craig McClenahan, 1994

5.12b Sport 50ft, 5
4 Premature Ejection

Clip the first bolt shared with 'Journey to Find the Sun' then head up and over the roof. Stop at the first 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Troy Corliss, 1995

5.12c Sport 6
5 Journey To Find The Sun

Start from the top of 'To Pin or Not to Be' and 'Moss Critique', and climb past the first bolt shared with 'Premature Ejection' before heading right. Follow four more bolts before joining 'Premature Ejection' again at the 2-bolt anchor. For the full route, continue up past another bolt and some mossy face climbing to finish at the higher 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Craig McClenahan, 1994

5.12b Sport 60ft, 6
6 Squeeler / Squealer

Long and sustained overhanging route up the headwall. Starts at the top of 'Go with the Flow' (which can optionally be linked into a single pitch with a 70m rope). Pro to 1.5".

FFA: Dan Mcdevit & Sue Mcdevit, 1992

FFA: Grant Hiskes & Ken Yeager, 1995

5.11d Mixed trad 120ft, 9
7 Sidewinder

From the top of 'Go with the Flow', head right to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Chicken Ranch Bingo'.

FFA: Ken Yager & Grant Hiskes, 1991

FFA: Dave Bangston, 1995

5.12a Sport 7
8 Chicken Ranch Bingo

Named in part for the white streak of biohazard that seasonally runs down the face of this route. Two of the bolts are old 1/4" bolts, but good bolts are nearby. Extend the first and fourth bolts. The route starts at the edge of the pit, so anchor in the belayer. A 60m rope is required to lower into the pit. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Sidewinder'.

FFA: Grant Hiskes, Kirk Hufnagel & Kevin Fosberg, 1991

FFA: Grant Hiskes, 1993

5.10a Sport 80ft, 9

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.10a Chicken Ranch Bingo Sport 80ft, 9
5.11d Squeeler Mixed trad 120ft, 9
5.12a Ejection Seat Sport 8
Sidewinder Sport 7
5.12b Flight Simulator Sport 50ft, 5
Journey To Find The Sun Sport 60ft, 6
5.12c Premature Ejection Sport 6
5.13a The Bombadier Sport 7
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