A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Campbell Gome Brendan Heywood Adrian Kladnig Wendy Eden Richard Curtis Zorba Parer Ashley Felton Constantine Dritsas Gareth Llewellin
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. The Red Wall & Toccata Wall / The Red Wall / Toccata Wall 38 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Red Wall & Toccata Wall 38 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Alle traditionelles Klettern
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Beschreibung
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area
Einschränkungen
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
Abstieg
Rap stations at top of many routes, otherwise top out then scramble up and L then down Organ Pipes Gully.
Ethik
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Red WallThis is the appealing big red wall starting off a terrace 30m above ground level, and can be accessed by climbing any of the routes from Keyboard to Horn Piece or by soloing up the gully between Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo Pipe. Shade from about noon. | ||||||||
2 |
★ Abbie Normal
Start at the left side of the Red Wall. Bridge up gully (G String) to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings. Erstbegehung: Douglas Hockly & Ingvar Lidman, 2002 | 24 | 24m | |||||
3 |
Wyrd Left Hand Variant
Undercling past first roof and continue up crack for 5m. Erstbegehung: Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey & Mark Moorhead, 1982 | 22 | 35m | |||||
4 |
★ Wyrd
Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing. Start on the left side of the grey pedestal. Erstbegehung: Mike Law & Matt Taylor, 1976 | 19 | 50m | |||||
5 |
★ Wyrd Direct
Straightens out Wyrd with some committing climbing. Erstbegehung: Tony Marian & Hugh Foxcroft, 1978 Erste freie Begeh.: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 21 | 35m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Tannin Direct
Makes a good change. Erstbegehung: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan & Geoff Little., 1985 | 20 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Tannin
Fantastic climbing on gorgeous peachy rock, many climbers' favourite 19 at Araps. Chains at top (32m). Videos Erstbegehung: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976 | 19 | 35m | |||||
8 |
★★ The Wraith
This lovely wall was a very bold first ascent. Small wires (take extra #3 RPs) now give reasonable protection but sport climbers wouldn't want to be getting on this for their first trad 21. Start just right of Tannin. While sketching out with your modern gear, spare a thought for Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent which was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. Erstbegehung: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976 | 21 | 35m | |||||
9 |
★ Sissy Bars and Super Freaks
Start just right of Wraith. Great moves on thin face, cruxy past second bolt. Finish straight up or traverse L to finish up The Wraith or Tannin. Erstbegehung: Ant Prehn & Jon Muir, 1986 | 23 | 30m | |||||
10 |
★ F Sharp
This good crack system is the only surviving piece of a long-forgotten girdle traverse of the Organ Pipes. Perhaps it would have had more credibility if it had started with a tyrolean from the top of the D Minor Pinnacle. Five old carrot bolts are scattered along the beginning of the route though most are near more reliable natural protection. The good climbing is over too soon and gives way to easy moves on dubious rock. Start at a little corner below and right of The Wraith. Take care to set the belayer where they will not kick loose rock down the gully onto people below (or better yet, eliminate this risk entirely by starting up Low F instead). Erstbegehung: Chris Baxter & Tim Hancock, 1970 Erste freie Begeh.: Chris Baxter, Kevin Lindorff & Mike Stone, 1976 | 19 | 40m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Toccata WallBack to ground level. This is the area right of Didgeridoo. | ||||||||
12 |
Low Note
The original approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof. Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to where there is now a FH, then up steep jugs to chains. Erstbegehung: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter., 1984 | 20 | 30m | |||||
13 |
★★ Low F (linkup)
A good way to do the good bit of F Sharp from the ground. Start up Dirge for 8m, move left and up Low Note to the base of the diagonal, and follow this up L into the business of F Sharp. When it gets easy head R to the chains and lower off back to the ground. It's possible to clean your own gear (with admin), but much better to have someone second it. | 19 | 35m | |||||
14 |
Dirge LHF
It is possible to do a harder finish to Dirge by heading left before you get to the chains, traversing across the blank wall to join the final flake system of F Sharp. Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1977 | 18 | 50m | |||||
15 |
★★ Dirge
Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake.
Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter., 1974 | 17 | 85m, 2 | |||||
16 |
Bass Clef
This is quite a good chimney and the rap anchor lets you avoid the cruddy finish. Start below the next buttress right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Scramble up 6 metres into the gully on the left of the buttress then traverse right until below the chimney. Climb up into the chimney and follow it (originally climbed up the left edge of the chimney for a bit) past the roof on the left. Belay on left about 5 metres above the roof at chains. 30 metre abseil or continue up crud to the top. Erstbegehung: Ian Speedie & Michael Stone, 1964 | 9 | 66m | |||||
17 |
Bag Pipes
A pointless variation on Bass Clef. Up Bass Clef to the chimney, step left and up the juggy arete just left of the chimney until able to bridge into the prominent line on the right wall of the chimney. Up this line then step right to the Tremulo bolts. Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 15 Jul 2017 | 12 | 30m | |||||
18 |
Humouresque
The late Dennis Kemp said that this was one of only two climbs that he had done at Arapiles that he would not consider repeating. Start just R of Bass Clef, directly below the chimney of Bass Clef.
Erstbegehung: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder., 1981 | 17 | 75m, 4 | |||||
19 |
★★ Jens Roof
A good solution to this buttress spotted by Jen Woods, going up to and left through the overhang. The route ties together bits of four other climbs, Humouresque, Bass Clef, Bag Pipes and Low Note, into something that is much better than any of the others. Start where you would scramble up to Dirge but stay at ground level. Go straight up as per Humouresque to the base of a chimney (Bass Clef), then follow Bag Pipes up the arete between the chimney and the smooth face to the left. After Bag Pipes heads rightwards, continue straight up as the climbing gets harder towards the overhang (small wires). Go diagonally left through roof, bolt at lip, and finish as for Low Note. Erstbegehung: Muki Woods & Ingvar Lidman, 2007 | 18 | 30m, 1 | |||||
20 |
★ Clear the Pipes
Warnung Flora & Fauna: Skeleton Fork-fern (Psilotum nudum) A direct start to the first pitch of Humouresque. Start 2m R of H. Climb to the right of the first FH to ledge. Straight up passing 2nd FH to join H at the bottom of it's crack. The first few metres of this is a lovely hand crack, and when it deteriorates into grunge you can maintain the quality climbing by drifting R up the clean thin yellow line into the last few moves of Tremulo. A worthwhile 19ish variant is to skip the hard moves at the first bolt by starting up Tremulo. Erstbegehung: Anthony Schellens & Paul Deacon, Dez 2018 | 21 | 25m, 2 | |||||
21 |
★★ Tremulo
Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten. Start at short chimney 5 metres right of Humouresque. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor. Erstbegehung: Phil Seccombe.., 1966 | 14 | 25m | |||||
22 |
Tremulo-Humouresque / Tremulo pitch 2
Not a bad excursion to the top of the Organ Pipes from the Tremulo anchor. Bear in mind that it is little-travelled so treat the rock with respect and be mindful of climbers below. It's not actually the original finish of Tremulo, which continued up the gully above the anchor, but the finish of Humouresque. The climbing can be split in a number of ways, with best ledges at 30m and 40m. Continue up left buttresses from anchors at top of pitch one of Tremulo, passing the MCC gnome high on the buttress. Walk off. | 10 | 45m | |||||
23 |
Friendless
Good climbing with hard start and finish but gets few ascents and is sinking beneath the moss. The finish is quite scary. Start 2 metres right of Tremulo at seam. Erstbegehung: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran.., 2000 | 22 R | 40m | |||||
24 |
★★ Discord Direct
Excellent climb for the grade. Absorbing from bottom to top. Erstbegehung: Digby Gotts (Direct Start) Erstbegehung: Richard Curtis & Phillip Armstrong (Direct Finish), 1980 | 17 | 25m, 2 | |||||
25 |
Discord
As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe
Erstbegehung: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams -Alternate leads, 1965 | 15 | 42m | |||||
26 |
A Concerted Effort
Beautiful rock but a bit contrived. Start as for Discord.
Erstbegehung: Malcolm Matheson, Chris Baxter (alt) & Kim Carrigan., 1982 | 22 | 45m, 2 | |||||
27 | A Concerted Effort Direct | 23 | ||||||
28 |
★★ Toccata
A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.
Erstbegehung: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1965 | 15 | 50m, 2 | |||||
29 |
Garnett-Fleischaker Syndrome
Makes a worthwhile route out of Yossarian. Right of Toccata is a crack up the left side of a short buttress.
Erstbegehung: Wendy Eden & Kate Dooley, 21 Dez 2015 | 17 | 2 | |||||
30 |
Yossarian
A hard few moves on the crux but a bit disappointing overall. Start on the grey buttress just right of Toccata.
Erstbegehung: Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett. | 17 | 48m, 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Scramble up the gully between Toccata and Wingnuts In Heaven and under the chockstone to reach Alychne Wall (which can also be easily reached from under Brick Wall) | ||||||||
32 |
★ Wingnuts in Heaven
The rightmost of the twin cracks on the big block in front of Toccata. Walk off behind. Erstbegehung: Doug & Tara Wingfield., 1989 | 15 | 10m | |||||
33 |
Whiteman's Country
Hardly a recommendation. Erstbegehung: Freed by Malcolm Matheson.., 1981 | 22 | 10m | |||||
Alychne WallThe mossy-looking wall right of Toccata. Either scramble up the gully right of Toccata and under the chockstone, or take the Central Gully Left Side track to Brick Wall and go left. Best descent is by 35m abseil from Led Zeppelin anchor; keep the rope on to access this. | ||||||||
35 |
★ Sonatine
Lovely corner on the second pitch. Scramble up the gully right of Toccata under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for Yossarian but it doesn't add much value.
Erstbegehung: Peter Watling & Ross Digby., 1979 | 15 | 48m, 2 | |||||
36 |
Led Zeppelin
Essentially a nice variant finish to Sonatine, sharing that climb's crux. 35m abseil descent.
Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 23 Sep 2017 | 16 | 45m | |||||
37 |
Deflated
Dirty. This and the next two climbs were named in honour of Chris Dewhirst's inglorious attempt at hot air ballooning at 'Arapiles'. Start: Start at the short, easy corner.
Erstbegehung: Francine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981 | 11 | 35m, 2 | |||||
38 |
Hot Air Symposium
Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better. Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.
Erstbegehung: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder. 01-08-1981. Direct Start 1 : Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth., 2008 | 13 | 35m, 2 | |||||
39 |
★ Hindenburg Disaster
Quite dicky on the initial face and protection on the middle section is not the best. A good climb which would improve with traffic (or a concerted cleaning effort). Originally done in two pitches but much safer to do as one. Start at the small corner as for 'Deflated' etc. Up corner, step right onto face and up seam to small stance. Slightly left and up into shallow groove (several #3 RPs useful) and finish up right arete. Erstbegehung: FRancine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981 | 17 | 45m | |||||
40 |
Alychne
The Alychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett was an optometrist). This climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic; the mossy appearance, fiddly protection and indirect line tend to put people off. Double ropes are very useful. Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack. Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (many RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall. Erstbegehung: Gordon Talbett & Peter McKeand., 1968 | 14 | 40m | |||||
41 |
Gasbags
Start at the right-hand toe of the wall, a few meters right of Alychne, at a seam in nice rock.
Erstbegehung: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, Nov 2017 | 10 | 35m, 2 | |||||
42 |
Middle 8
Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top. Start: Erstbegehung: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Chris Frost., 2000 | 14 | 10m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
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9 | Bass Clef | 66m | |||
10 | Gasbags | 35m, 2 | |||
Tremulo-Humouresque | 45m | ||||
11 | Deflated | 35m, 2 | |||
12 | Bag Pipes | 30m | |||
13 | Hot Air Symposium | 35m, 2 | |||
14 | Alychne | 40m | |||
Middle 8 | 10m | ||||
★★ | Tremulo | 25m | |||
15 | Discord | 42m | |||
★ | Sonatine | 48m, 2 | |||
★★ | Toccata | 50m, 2 | |||
★ | Wingnuts in Heaven | 10m | |||
16 | Led Zeppelin | 45m | |||
17 | ★★ | Dirge | 85m, 2 | ||
★★ | Discord Direct | 25m, 2 | |||
Garnett-Fleischaker Syndrome | 2 | ||||
★ | Hindenburg Disaster | 45m | |||
Humouresque | 75m, 4 | ||||
Yossarian | 48m, 2 | ||||
18 | Dirge LHF | 50m | |||
★★ | Jens Roof | 30m, 1 | |||
19 | ★ | F Sharp | 40m | ||
★★ | Low F (linkup) | 35m | |||
★★★ | Tannin | 35m | |||
★ | Wyrd | 50m | |||
20 | Low Note | 30m | |||
★★★ | Tannin Direct | 20m | |||
21 | ★ | Clear the Pipes | 25m, 2 | ||
★★ | The Wraith | 35m | |||
★ | Wyrd Direct | 35m | |||
22 | A Concerted Effort | 45m, 2 | |||
Whiteman's Country | 10m | ||||
Wyrd Left Hand Variant | 35m | ||||
22 R | Friendless | 40m | |||
23 | A Concerted Effort Direct | ||||
★ | Sissy Bars and Super Freaks | 30m | |||
24 | ★ | Abbie Normal | 24m |