Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Unknown | |||||||||
3 | ★★ NE Gully and Ridge | Mt Kenya | ★★ Very Good | Thu 29th Dec 2016 | |||||
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3 | ★★ NE Gully and Ridge | Mt Kenya | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Apr 2020 | |||||
Via the direct variation. Nice!
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3 | ★★ NE Gully and Ridge - with Hamish, Fiona | Mt Kenya | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Sep 2020 | |||||
Took us 7 hours door-to-door from Shipton’s. Scrambled up the gully to the first tat anchors. Hamish led pitch one (very easy, probably could have kept scrambling or simul-climbing), the 2nd pitch was the crux (about 5.7), Hamish led and traversed a little left and then up a crack system to next tat anchor. I led the last pitch which is amazing (and pretty easy) across the ridge up to the summit. Chilled out climb, good for beginners to the alpine world!
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3 | ★★ NE Gully and Ridge | Mt Kenya | ★ Good | Thu 21st Jul 2022 | |||||
Practice run with Mr. Martyn, my client. An hour from base to summit.
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3 | ★★ NE Gully and Ridge - with neil Margetts | Mt Kenya | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Sep 2022 | |||||
Bad weather. Rock completely wet. We used the variant described and it was not easy in mountaineering boots.
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7a | Unknown 14 | 31m | Haut Atlas | Average | Sat 8th Dec 2007 | ||||
Very sharp
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5 | ★ Salam Oalikom | Haut Atlas | ★ Good | Fri 5th Oct 2007 | |||||
Tricky start over the water
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6a | ★★ Oualallou | Haut Atlas | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Oct 2007 | |||||
Fantastic climb. Great lead.
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7a | ★★★ L'Aproz Des Sables | 30m | Haut Atlas | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Dec 2007 | ||||
Really flowing moves. cool slab & then power up into the overhang
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7b | ★★★ Tortuga (Unnamed (Maxillion)) | 30m | Haut Atlas | ★★ Very Good | Tue 4th Dec 2007 | ||||
Gave it 2 shots but no luck. incredibly sharp and loose at the top
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7a | ★★★ Ensalada Metalica | 30m | Haut Atlas | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 8th Dec 2007 | ||||
Brilliant climbing up and overhanging arete. Best climb in Morocco
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7b | ★★ Africa | 22m | Haut Atlas | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Dec 2007 | ||||
Really happy with this one! As usual, massively steep jug-thug.
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5 | ★★ Bahaoui | Haut Atlas | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Oct 2007 | |||||
Nice overhanging section just to the left of Oualallou.
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3 | NW Face | Mt Kenya | Average | Thu 11th Aug 2005 | |||||
Nice rest day scramble. Lots of loose rock though, cool position on the summit.
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7b+ | ★★ Depredador | Haut Atlas | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Dec 2007 | |||||
Hard. Would have taken a lot of work. Too many other climbs to try!
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7b+ | ★★ Unnamed (Finale) | 15m | Haut Atlas | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Dec 2007 | ||||
Last climb of the trip. Sadly it didn't happen on the onsight attempt.
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5b | Trop | Haut Atlas | Average | Fri 28th Feb 2014 | |||||
Just another line of bolts
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7a+ | ★★★ Afrique Physique | 25m | Haut Atlas | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Feb 2014 | ||||
Not sure if this was the route, but in the middle oft he 7a+section. Interesting slab then rising traverse right on overhung wall. Starts just left of boulder pile at highest part of wall
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6b 6c+ | Plaisir | 90m | Haut Atlas | Average | Fri 28th Feb 2014 | ||||
Sharp at end of day
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6b | ★★ Mets la jambe (Jardin D'Hiver) | 22m | Haut Atlas | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Feb 2014 | ||||
Steep little wall and a good kneebar
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6c+ | ★ Unknown 11 | 22m | Haut Atlas | ★ Good | Fri 28th Feb 2014 | ||||
Interesting up seam and pumpy overt he bulge
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7a | ★★★ Ensalada Metalica | 30m | Haut Atlas | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Mar 2014 | ||||
Amazing series of pockets up blunt overhanging arete
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6b+ | Tamazirt | 55m | Haut Atlas | Average | Sat 1st Mar 2014 | ||||
First pitch only as warm up
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6b | ★ Unknown 13 | 31m | Haut Atlas | ★ Good | Sat 1st Mar 2014 | ||||
Rather run out in places
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6c | ★ Tjazmatalas | 30m | Haut Atlas | ★ Good | Wed 5th Mar 2014 | ||||
One hard move with out good reach, had to use some rather sloppy intermediates.
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6c+ | ★★ Jalufa | 30m | Haut Atlas | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Mar 2014 | ||||
Did the crux and succumbed to a reach issue that essentially had a dyno for me on the second attempt. Marvellous climbing, very varied.
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5c+ | ★ Unknown 12 | 31m | Haut Atlas | ★ Good | Wed 5th Mar 2014 | ||||
Ok, with nice but runout moves up a massive hollow flake to anchors
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6b+ | La Jaima de jaime | 14m | Haut Atlas | Average | Fri 14th Mar 2014 | ||||
Crap bolting, the ones that aren't missing. Bridging helps
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6c | ★ Belek! Belek! | 14m | Haut Atlas | ★ Good | Fri 14th Mar 2014 | ||||
Bolts miss the obvious nice but spaced pockets to the left
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7a+ | ★ Los Agrijaos | 15m | Haut Atlas | ★ Good | Fri 14th Mar 2014 | ||||
Very hard move to mono near start. More like 25. Finishes up tufa with dodgy rock.
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6a | ★★ Oualallou | Haut Atlas | Tue 3rd Feb 2015 | ||||||
Pleasant climbing. Great position
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6b | ★ #10 | Haut Atlas | Wed 4th Feb 2015 | ||||||
Hard top section. Worked hard for the o/s
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5 | ★ WNW Ridge - with Alex Fiksman | Mt Kenya | ★ Good | Sun 9th Aug 2020 | |||||
In the fog all day. We did not know where we were going. Analysis what we did and the guide book, we think e did this route.
Mostly second
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4 | ★ South Ridge - with Alex Fiksman | Mt Kenya | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Aug 2020 | |||||
Short climb (3 pitches)
Mostly second
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VS | ★★ DBO - with Joel M, Henrik | Lukenya | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jul 2020 | |||||
Really nice route at the grade. Short but steep enough the whole way.
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23 | ★★★ Mula Bandha - with MJ | Milner Amphitheatre | Sun 1st Mar 2020 | ||||||
P1 only.
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23 | ★★★ Out of the Blue - with MJ | Milner Amphitheatre | Sun 1st Mar 2020 | ||||||
2nd go.
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28 | ★★★ Great Beyond | Milner Amphitheatre | Fri 21st Jan 2022 | ||||||
P1 only.
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23 | ★★ Happy Ending - with MJ | Milner Amphitheatre | Mon 2nd Mar 2020 | ||||||
2nd go.
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26 | All That You Can't Leave Behind | Milner Amphitheatre | Fri 21st Jan 2022 | ||||||
P1 only.
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★★★ Magic and Loss — 2 attempts - with Keith | Milner Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Jan 2023 | ||||||
P1 only
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7a+ | ★★★ Afrique Physique | 25m | Haut Atlas | Thu 22nd Nov 2018 | |||||
Superb!
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7a | ★★★ L'Aproz Des Sables | 30m | Haut Atlas | Thu 22nd Nov 2018 | |||||
Good shit!
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★★★ White Men Can't Jump | Milner Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 5th Feb 2022 | ||||||
Nice and long
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7a | ★★★ L'Aproz Des Sables - with Giorgio | 35m | Haut Atlas | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th Feb 2023 | ||||
Great climbing. Interesting moves on the bottom slab part, big moves on the uppper overhang. Second go send.
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5 | East Rib - with Samuel Jury | Mt Kenya | Average | Wed 22nd Feb 2023 | |||||
Not the best rock
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★★★ Great Beyond — 2 attempts - with tinie | Milner Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 6th Feb 2022 | ||||||
Best ever
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★★★ Mula Bandha - with tinie | Milner Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 5th Feb 2022 | ||||||
Gem
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6a+ | ★★ Mouf On'D Web - with Bojan Š | 150m | Haut Atlas | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Jan 2024 | ||||
Bring trad gear. Big runouts on very sharp stone, the crux is on the second pitch. Scramble around 50m, then go left you will see fixed ropes and first abseil spot. 2x60m half ropes were enough for 2 abseils.
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Drive - with NIC VDB | Milner Amphitheatre | Sat 6th Jan 2024 | |||||||
pathetic hang dong on top rope. will need a lot of work
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Trad | |||||||||
22 | ★★ A Private Universe - with brian godfrey | 550m, 50 | Slanghoek Amphitheatre | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Dec 2023 | ||||
Bottom pitches before the bivy were absolutely crap and dangerous. Pitches above the bivy were generally very good with only the occasional death block. The second last 22 is awesome and the last 22 also but a bit grumby.
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5.9 E1 4c | ★★★ Guiness and Goat - with Ian Lekiluai | 290m, 19 | Mt Ololokwe area | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Mar 2022 | ||||
A great route.
a total of 3 hours from base to top.
This was the 3rd ascent and saw the party add their own finish to the climb by climbing directly up the tree roots to the roof on the last pitch.
All in all, the route is insanely run out between bolts and one can easily climb past the odd bit of gear if not very keen. Traditional placements are scarce.
As far as difficulty is concerned, I'd place the most technical cruxes somewhere in the 5.9 YDS range. Route could benefit from one extra bolt per pitch, but perhaps more so one rap ring or bolt directly above the route at the finish, to simplify access from above. Still, I personally had a blast leading this one.
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HVS 4b E1 4c | ★★★ Guiness and Goat | 290m, 19 | Mt Ololokwe area | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Apr 2022 | ||||
First guided ascent of the route with one client and Ian Lekiluai.
We started the climb too far off to the right and had to negotiate a horrendous blank slab with no gear before rejoining the main route. I broke off most of the crux holds on pitch 4 and had to find a new way around the section of crumbling rock. After a number of scary leads, and Ian dislodging a massive loose flake. We finished the climb and hiked off the back with the Client's family. The route wasn't as kind to us as it had been on the first trip up. |
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HVS 4b E1 4c | ★★★ Guiness and Goat - with Gabriel Jackson | 290m, 19 | Mt Ololokwe area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Apr 2022 | ||||
Documentary filming with Gabriel and Ian. We worked and cleaned the route, dropping huge loose flakes while at it.
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HVS 4b E1 4c | ★★★ Guiness and Goat - with Gabriel Jackson | 290m, 19 | Mt Ololokwe area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Apr 2022 | ||||
Documentary filming with Gabriel and Ian. We worked and cleaned the route, dropping huge loose flakes while at it.
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HVS 4b E1 4c | ★★★ Guiness and Goat - with Gabriel Jackson | 290m, 19 | Mt Ololokwe area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Apr 2022 | ||||
Documentary filming with Gabriel and Ian. We worked and cleaned the route, dropping huge loose flakes while at it.
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HVS 4b | ★★★ Guiness and Goat - with Gabriel Jackson, Ian Lekiluai | 290m, 19 | Mt Ololokwe area | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Apr 2022 | ||||
The plan was to rehearse the moves and do more cleaning on this day, but dark clouds indicated the arrival of the rains, so the final decision was for me to run up the route rope less on that day. On pitch 6, the rain begun to pour and by the time I summited, the sky completely let loose. It was a powerful moment. Bottom to top was about 40 minutes with a few long stops on the route as I had to wait for the drone batteries to be changed and for the drone to locate me on the large wall. All in all, a very significant ascent for me personally and the growing community of Kenyan born climbers.
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E1 4c E1 4c | ★★★ Guiness and Goat | 290m, 19 | Mt Ololokwe area | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Aug 2022 | ||||
Guiding a client.
We spent the night on the summit with Peter Lemayan and the client. At the break of dawn, we abseiled into the wall to the start of pitch one and climbed up from there. Quite an experience doing it that way. |
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E1 4c E1 4c | ★★★ Guiness and Goat | 290m, 19 | Mt Ololokwe area | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Nov 2022 | ||||
Some serious unprotected sections, otherwise a very fun day out.
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18 | ★★★ To Bolt or not to Bolt - with Richard Ford, Neil Margetts | 270m, 12 | Spitzkoppe & The Pontoks | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Jul 2018 | ||||
Great route, very worthwhile climbing.
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24 | ★★ Prelude to the Wastelands - with Eric Genty, Meagan | 130m, 11 | Paarl Rock | Wed 15th May 2019 | |||||
Only climbed P1 clean on top rope. With gloves. What a fight!! Thanks Eric for getting to the anchor.
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16 | ★ Blowing up the Postbox - with Richard Ford, Neil Margetts | 150m, 10 | Spitzkoppe & The Pontoks | ★ Good | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | ||||
Good route, better protected than appears from below.
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17 | ★★ Heat of the Moment - with Brian Watts | 28m, 6 | Hellfire | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Jul 2021 | ||||
Nice bit of laybacking.
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7b 29 - 31 | ★★★ Worlds Apart | 40m, 6 | Wolfberg | Fri 9th Sep 2016 | |||||
returning 8 years after being shot down on the onsight. What an amazing line. A testemony for trad routes being bolted and actually being climbed a crapload because of it. #retrobolt #ftw
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22 | ★★★ Children of a Lesser God | 130m, 5 | Paarl Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 9th Jun 2006 | ||||
Great Line!! Very long!
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22 | ★★★ Children of a Lesser God | 130m, 5 | Paarl Rock | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Apr 2022 | ||||
Nice route...Hard parts have bolts.
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7a 25 | ★★ The Energy of Slaves | 4 | Magaliesberg | Sun 12th Jan 2014 | |||||
Fun short route with a very awesome flowing sequence
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17 17 R | ★★ Scratch | 65m, 3 | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st May 2004 | ||||
sparce gear placements
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5.10d E2 5c | ★★ DIY (Ulf Carlsson Memorial Route) - with Joshua Noble | 20m, 3 | Lukenya | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Oct 2019 | ||||
Led first try after following Sam once a couple of weeks before. Great route, especially the first 10m!
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22 E2 5c | ★★ DIY (Ulf Carlsson Memorial Route) | 20m, 3 | Lukenya | Mon 14th Oct 2019 | |||||
The hornets are super chill, don’t let them scare you off.
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22 | ★★★ Umkhonto we Sizwe | 15m, 3 | Paarl Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Nov 2012 | ||||
Trad tried it before - got it first go this time. Cool hero climbing up the flake to finish
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22 E2 5c | ★★ DIY (Ulf Carlsson Memorial Route) | 20m, 3 | Lukenya | Mon 21st Sep 2020 | |||||
Wasn't this climb called DIY
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28 | ★★★ Blue Diamonds and White Ice (Blue Diamonds White Ice) | 3 | Paarl Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th Aug 2012 | ||||
Trad AdK classic. Unexpected 1st try of the day. Wasn't quite prepared for the last slabby bit and almost botched it at the end. Not full trad. 2 Bolts at the bottom and 2 bolts at the top.
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HVS | ★★ Hope Floats | 3 | Lukenya | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Feb 2021 | ||||
Free solo both pitches.
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17 17 R | ★★ Scratch | 65m, 3 | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Wed 20th Feb 2013 | ||||
Relatively easy climbing but run-out. Great on balance granite climbing. I had climbed pitch 2 before on 2nd, but because I lead it in almost darkness, I will claim the on-sight/solo.
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22 | ★★★ Wildfire - with Josh Sowter | 38m, 3 | Hellfire | Sat 10th Jul 2021 | |||||
Climbed with Josh. Burnout was a waterfall so jumped on this 22. Ended up lying on my back on the diving board, weirdess climbing move I've ever done. Pretty unfit at the moment but good to get back out and do some mileage. Loved Hellfire, what a place. Been missing these early start missions. P2 was more like 17 / 18 would like to lead that next time.
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E2 5b | ★★★ The Keep - with Gavin Douglas | 55m, 3 | Lukenya | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 1st Aug 1985 | ||||
Led by Gavin, his first E1 lead at the time though pleased to see it is now E2 which is fair. A brilliant and bold line and an absolute classic. A brilliant first ascent by Ian Howell, 9 years previously
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22 | ★★★ Wildfire - with Aidan Bennetts | 38m, 3 | Hellfire | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Mar 2023 | ||||
Seconding OS - awesome route
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22 | ★★★ Umkhonto we Sizwe - with Simon Pauk | 15m, 3 | Paarl Rock | Thu 21st Feb 2019 | |||||
Didn't lead the top part on trad gear. Need to go back and do it properly...
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16 15 | ★★★ Pyramid Scheme - with Justine Cole and Charles Bowker | 130m, 2 | Rooiberg | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Feb 2014 | ||||
Very scary. Definitely not a 15. Suggest at least 16. A really amazing climb though. Highly recommended.
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19 | ★★★ Splinter of the Mind's Eye | 15m, 2 | Paarl Rock | Sun 28th Jun 2009 | |||||
Trad
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5.11b E2 6a | ★★ The Joker - with Ian Thorpe | 60m, 2 | Lukenya | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Oct 2020 | ||||
Good route, maybe French 6b+/6c? Not very scary or runout but quite sustained
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27 28 | ★★★ Eternal Rust | 50m, 2 | Elsie's Peak | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th May 2016 | ||||
Tried this some years ago and found it super hard. Went surprisingly easy this time around. Super cool crux seq.
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26 | ★★★ Red Rain | 2 | Wolfberg | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 29th Nov 2014 | ||||
Trad Mixed route. Backed the scary old bolts up with some additional trad gear. Crazy how this route felt insanely hard in the beginning, but so easy on the send. Totally mental!
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E2 5b E2 5b | ★★ Los Penitentes | 2 | Lukenya | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Feb 2022 | ||||
2nd attemt. Screwed it up right at the end of the onsight attempt.
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E2 6a | ★★ The Joker — 2 attempts - with Quinn Miller | 60m, 2 | Lukenya | Crap | Sun 11th Sep 2022 | ||||
There is a loose bolt at the top-totally put me off!
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E2 5b | ★★ Los Penitentes | 2 | Lukenya | ★ Good | Sun 15th Jan 2023 | ||||
Hard crux, where I fell. Sadly though the interest is not as sustained as at the other E2.
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24 | ★★★ South West Wall Route - with Richard Ford, Neil Margetts | 2 | Spitzkoppe & The Pontoks | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | |||||
Lots of unprotected chimneys, great line, run out. Aided 1st 24 pitch and, which is the normal way these days, and onsighted the rest.
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19 | ★★★ Splinter of the Mind's Eye - with Simon Pauk | 15m, 2 | Paarl Rock | Thu 21st Feb 2019 | |||||
First trad lead... even though it's got a bolt or 2 LOL. Still a super awesome line. Went back and did it 2 or 3 more times after this.
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15 |
★★★ Pyramid Scheme
- with
Guy, Claudia
1
15
20m
2
15
35m
3
8
20m
4
15
15m
5
15
35m
| 130m, 2 | Rooiberg | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Feb 2024 | ||||
Nice outing, some interesting pitches in exposed positions
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VS | ★★★ Future Party - with climbingfish | 270m, 1 | Kalama Hill | Thu 4th Apr 2019 | |||||
FA
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17 |
★★★ Scary Crack
- with
Kevin
2
lead by
Kevin
| 65m, 1 | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th May 2021 | ||||
P1 is really awesome lay backing with good gear, super high quality. P2 is the scary bit, well done Kevin on the lead you are the MAN! The most run-out route I have done on granite to date. One of my favourites too!
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19 | ★★★ Sideburn - with Megan | 32m, 1 | Hellfire | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | ||||
Such good quality.
One of the best 19's I've ever done.
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18 20 | ★ Beautiful Losers | 1 | Magaliesberg | ★ Good | Wed 15th Dec 2021 | ||||
Think it can be down graded to 18 was as hard as a 18 in the lower section.
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VS 5a VS 5a | ★★ Boiler Plate | 25m, 1 | Lukenya | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Jan 1989 | ||||
A classic route, top end VS for sure. I can't remember the exact dates but this is roughly correct. I led it 4 or 5 times and each time found the crux move difficult, it never got easier. The bolt is very kind.
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E5 6a E3 5c | ★★★ Take is not a safe word - with Gabriel Jackson | 20m, 1 | Lukenya | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | ||||
Great climb. Some of the best moves on Egyptian and some of the best moves I've done at Lukenya.
Current grade (French 6c) seems fair for technical difficulty though believe E3 is a better description for seriousness. Protection is fairly decent on good rock and this combination with the moves feels more in line with other E3's in the country. Highly recommend this route. |
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E5 6a | ★★★ Take is not a safe word - with Gabriel Jackson | 20m, 1 | Lukenya | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 2nd Nov 2022 | ||||
What a route. Engaging moves without the rope.
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E3 5c ~E3 ~5c | ★★★ Take is not a safe word | 20m, 1 | Lukenya | Sun 22nd Jan 2023 | |||||
Great addition to the crag and Lukenya - lovely climbing.
Would say E3 5c as after scoping it out I found the gear to be pretty bomber and evenly spaced.
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VS 5a | ★★ Boiler Plate | 25m, 1 | Lukenya | Jan 2024 | |||||
had to rescue Gabe on the route beside
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17 |
★★★ Scary Crack
- with
Aimée Chiat Hook, Megan
| 65m, 1 | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
I thought the climbing felt familiar, I've done it before. The last pitch is very run-out. Good for the mind. Nice to take the girls out. Last time Kevin lead the serious pitch.
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From the peak we did a mini abseil to the block with lots of tat. Abseiled down the North East Gully and walked down after 3 abseils.
Really nice intro to Mt. Kenya