Routes in Africa

Every beginner should aspire to climb this classic 18. Climb up the right facing corner, left of the 'M&M' face.

Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge.

A classic 16 requiring some crack and laybacking skills. Start on the obvious flake.

Clip first 3-4 bolts of 'Sarel Seemonster' then move right and up, finishing below the big bushy tree.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start as for Modell Robber but climb out left through the small roof and finish up left of the arete. "Best of its grade in Rocklands"

Originally graded 6b+. 8a.nu suggests that it might be harder.

Video

Video

Very popular and long climb. Mostly good holds. Crux just before the chains.

Climbs the right hand side of the scoop, following a crack system all the way to the top of the crag. Cool line with some nice exposure at the top.

Long route, climbs the obvious zig-zag finger crack.

The classic line at the cliff.

One permadraw at the top

After scrambling up to the staircase ledge (grade 10 scramble), walk left all the way to the end of the ledge to a grey face. Climb up to a standing up exposed, but easy, traverse to the left and around the corner to a half tree (it used to be a big tree but someone cut it and left only the tree trunk). Start climbing from there.

1. [16] 25m Climb straight up the flaky wall to a ledge. Go up to the start of a flaky crack system (the start is awkward) and follow this system, which goes slightly diagonally left, to the end of it. Step right to the face and up till able to reach a wide rail (there are two small rails just above it). Build a hanging belay here.

2. [16] 25m Climb the stunning traverse until forced to move up. Climb straight up to a flaky steep crack system to a small ledge with a big hole on it. Belay from this ledge.

3. [16] 20m Start at the far left of the small ledge climbing straight up on good holds the steep wall to a bulging face. Move slightly right and up into a wide but short crack to a huge ledge. Build your anchor here. Scrambling leads to the top.

The benchmark 21. Opened at the grade as the consensus grade.

A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained! Start up a thin face below the overlap. Turn overlap on the right and head up to the ledge. Steep moves lead up the face to a rest before the break through the overhangs above. These overhangs will normally see some impressive ‘styling’ over a weekend.

Shares a start with 'Toolbox', tending left at the third bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it.

Just left to the recess where 'Chimneying Tammy' is. A wonderful route for its grade.

Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.

Fantastic and varied climbing.

Climb the blobby featured face around the corner of 'Captain Hook' . Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering.

Climb a short corner system. There is some green rock just right of this climb. Easy if you have good footwork, really hard if you don’t!

Start about 6m right of As Good As It Gets, leap for first hold (or opt for a stylish start if you can!) and then up into scoop. Move up leftwards, then direct to finish.

Slab with one small roof. Don't detour to left of roof, climb straight up and over.

Right side of the leaning pillar. Use the pillar and the face to get to the top of the pillar. Reach for the base of the shallow recess to the top.

Two perma-draws at the top

Interesting start, eases up after 2nd bolt.

Starts up the left hand side of a shallow scoop. Delicate climbing past the second bolt takes you through a small overlap and onto a short, blank face. Climb this, pull the overlap above and continue up the corner system above to reach the top of the crag.

Climbs the left facing corner with 1m roof high up. Not as hard as it looks.

Starts up some steep jug hauling before moving diagonally left up a break towards the chains.

Starts in the middle of the face about 2m left of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Trend leftwards to the arête and then follow break rightwards to the top.

The easiest route on Nemesis, located round the corner at the right-hand side of the crag. Slightly slabby start up to good jugs to the top. Try not to pull too hard on the flakes!

The last bolted climb to the right of the crag, round the corner. Climb the first few meters of the slab, then step left and straight up the route with the crux of the moves coming after 10m of climbing. Multiple options for holds enable climbers to finish it in various different ways. Be gentle with the flakes.

Since being bolted this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in Boven. After the 3rd bolt, move left then up and up; sustained. A 60 m rope is needed.

Sit Down Start. Both hands on the shelf at the base of the large scoop. Climb straight up the right side of the scoop to top out.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Pretty innocuous route with the hardest move right at the start.

Sit Down Start. Each hand on a good jug at the bottom left of the lower hole. Climb up the left spine of the scoop to top out.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Video

An excellent layback crack climb with good protection. Start in the big corner, on top of the blocks to the right of Cain. Follow the crack in the corner to the top.

Just right of 'The Claregate'.

Permadraws at the top

Some fun moves near the top as the route breaks left through the roof.

For the trad kings and queens. This route is sure to test your technique!

Short bouldery route, with fantastic compression moves up a slightly overhanging face. This route has a permanent draw at the anchors.

Spoonerism of "Body of Evidence"

Starts 15m left of 'The God No Wall' 'Rodan' in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. Great line with varied climbing the whole way.

Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

Start left of the arête in the scoop. Intense start followed by easy climbing to the chains.

Variation (12): Start around the corner to avoid the crux and join the rest of the route from the 2nd bolt.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Mantle onto the ledge and climb out leftwards through the arch.

Video

A must-do mega classic!

1. 4 Bolts. Climb the slab, heading leftward after bolt number 4 to reach the chains near the trees. Don't wonder off right.

2. 7 Bolts. Drop into the gully and climb the obvious superb soaring dyke above on good holds.

3. 4 Bolts. Climb out left and traverse with your hands level with the dyke, past two stances (The Ring Route and Jovian Thunderbolts), to a comfortable stance below the Dyke

4. 7 Bolts. Climb up the right-hand line of bolts (left line is The Scorched Earth).

Same start into the scoop as Turbulence, but at the second bolt keep moving rightwards and up. A beautiful route.

To the immediate right of Leap of Faith. Slightly tricky and crimpy start, then lovely moves through the middle section. Keep your nerve through the slabby run-out after the last bolt.

Sit start and climb up the seam exit left

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Video

Tricky move past the second bolt. Aim for the big black block/roof above

Probably led by various of the Margetts clan in the 80’s. Start 2m right of the root on the nose, following the double crack system to the base of the smaller groove at the top. Climb up this to lower-offs.

2 small roofs to overcome.

A very thin start followed by some easier moves above the ledge. Tricky move to reach the chains.

An easy route 4m right of Ranger's Delight, up a broken pillar.

A super climb, trending up and left up the slabby face.

Permadraws at the anchor.

The well marked climb left of 'Little Bonsai'.

Climb the crack on the right of the bulge and 1.5m right of the nose. Move up, then right and up on layback holds.