Routes in Africa for selected grade

The benchmark 21. Opened at the grade as the consensus grade.

Sit Down Start. Each hand on a good jug at the bottom left of the lower hole. Climb up the left spine of the scoop to top out.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

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Climb diagonally left on the thin face past the obvious slope.. From the ledge, climb straight up through the roof above at an undercling/layback break. The final overhang is easier if taken to the left.

Start 6 m right of K.L. Corner, move up into a scoop and then after passing the second bolt, move straight up and then left below an overhang, which is pushed through before reaching Happy Birthday Piers Wood. Keep going past the third bolt, even if you're pumped.

Cool route. Pull through the initial roof to reach thin moves up the face (crux). Above the ledge, continue more easily up the face and through the overhangs above.

Start as for 'Ice, ice baby'. Climb right into the scoop and top out straight up.

Opened at 21 I have been told it is 22 if you are short.

Sit-start to the right of The Golden Rail and climb up (with the large flake)

Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the 'Monster' cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. MCSA bolts

Slightly up a gully, right of Cleavage Wall

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Check out Bruce McD 's comments on this route from July 2022 if you are confused about the starting position or just want some more info.

Starting from the ground, climb the left ledge of the butress just to the right of CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS. Don't use the wall or outcrop behind you. Variation: Use outcrop - 20

Climb up right.

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Long and sustained.

Face climbing can't get any better than this, long and technical. Over 30m, tie a knot in the end!

Climb the blank face up to the crack line and then out left onto the arête. The start is quite technical.

Up the easier looking diagonal series of cracks and breaks, just right of 'Lunatic Fringe'. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Just to the right of My Precious

Originally an old aid route opened by Colin Shuttleworth called Wobble. Start at the flake to the right of Pin Up.

Climb the flake to the rail. Continue up the face via a hidden hold on the right to another rail with a peg. Move one metre right and then up past another peg to the top rail. Traverse right onto the good foothold (ie onto Granny’s) and then pull up until able to stand on the rail. Do one move left and finish.

Recently retro bolted. Climb straight to the first ledge, via powerful moves around a block and through the small roof to the ledge on the left, finish more easily to the cliff edge.

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharaoh's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

Fun line up the black streak between Nemesis and KL corner. Stay strong through the crux low down to finish on easier, fun climbing to the top. Found, FA'd and named by two strong young brothers!

Between 'Aussie Rules' and 'Face in the Trough'

Challenging for the grade, with a solid crux before easy climbing to the top

Sit-start with jugs and climb up left on good holds.

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Hard-looking direct route through a flat face. Starting up the cave slot (as for 'The Raven') gain the face above. Follow the cracks and grooves to anchors. May be 21 for the tall.

A delicate exercise in nut placing. This worthy trip takes the left side of the Castle where there is an orange overhang with a steep grey wall above. A 18m doddle up the lower slabs ends at a good belay in horizontal cracks some 5m below the overhang. Up this direct via a slanting flake and the grey wall above is reached by way of a thin vertical crack up on the right. Move up delicately 5m to good pro. Mantelshelf steep wall above and easier ground to top.

Starts to the left of the tree. A tricky looking first few meters on is on dolerite (an igneous rock), changing to quartzite after the 3rd bolt.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Newish route to the right of 'Hallucinogenic Toreador'

Starts with an easy scramble about 10m left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.

Powerful moves through the first roof lead to easier climbing before another puzzling crux

Stand start, climb the slab to TO.

Start as for ZEPPELIS but traverse left for 1m only. From here climb straight up the crack system and overhanging bulges.

Twenty metres right of the Microcave. Overhanging start leads to fun moves on jugs, then a solid rest before the overhang begins again.

Sitstart on small hold just right of the sloper on the arete. bump LH to the sloper and pull up to the sloper directly above for the TO.

The corner crack between the two faces is climbed free (natural pro).

Standing start. Both hands on sloped, in-cut edge. Climb straight up using sloped holds, past a large hole, to top out.

1. [19] 12m

2. [20] 20m

3. [16] 20m

4. [17] 25m

5. [22] 25m

Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face

Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best!

Start as The Cooler but climb up the crack feature

On the red face facing south picnic tree. One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, with another bolt above the crack. Finish at bolted anchors.

Sit-start with the knob and climb up.

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Sitstart, climbing the left leaning arête to warmup.

A brilliant climb which takes the main South face of the Castle. Start right of a flake on the ground an 50' of easy climbing leads to a point where the lower slab meets the steepening wall. A long pitch leads up right to the right-hand side of a flake, then up aot a prominent quartz-hole. Traverse diagonally leftwards to an obvious niche, then move right and up a cruzy wall to a horizontal crack (fixed peg pro on right). Move left to wall below bolt and make difficult move up to obvious finishing groove. Easier to top.

A very popular route that lives up to its name - follow the splodges. Climb the recess on the left-hand side of the crumbly rock and pull through the roof onto the wall above. Continue past a flake to the Nog High rail. Move left and pull through the roof above to finish straight up.

The route has been re-bolted with glue-ins.

Sit-start with low jugs and climb the face

Up the ACCESS ROUTE TO 'Gretchen Goes to Nebraska' ET AL; at the top of the dihedral, climb the left hand crack on the face. Gary Lotter's 'In Through the Out Door' probably goes out onto the arete now occupied by 'Bonar'.

We have added quite a few new glue-in bolts for the run-out sections.

Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches. Not possible to lower or abseil with a single 60m. Rather top out.

From the large pyramid-shaped hold climb up

Climb straight up the arête.

Start as The Dirty German but traverse out right.

Standing start. Left hand on small crimp, right hand on decent edge. Climb up left using the blunt arête to the right of the large hole, passed in 'Window licker', to top out.