Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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V15/16 | |||||||||
8C V15/16 | Ochimizu | Gifu / Toyama / Ishikawa | Nov 2020 | ||||||
FA
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V15 | |||||||||
V15 | Hydrangea | Shiobara Boulder | Thu 14th Feb 2013 | ||||||
2nd ascent, tried last year, but was unable to complete it. This year it went down! 5 moves of powerful v12 climbing lead into the stand (Hydra) which is v13. The finish involves tenuous double toe hooks while compressing two flat crimps that lead into the final move to the jug... I fell here 4 times from the start. Thanks to Dai for establishing this test piece!
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V15 | Nehanna | Gifu / Toyama / Ishikawa | Sat 4th Jun 2016 | ||||||
FA
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8B+ | |||||||||
8B+ | Bacteria | Jammu & Kashmir | Thu 1st Oct 2015 | ||||||
4000m bis zum Rande des Nirgendwo
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5.14d | |||||||||
5.14d | 辣饺子 Spicy Dumpling (Spicy Dumpling) | 42m, 16 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Wed 14th Nov 2018 | |||||
Fickle boulder problem to an amazing endurance finish without good rest. Finding acceptable conditions is still the crux!
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V12 | |||||||||
V12 | 长亭外 | 宝石山 Precious Stone Hill | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||||
介绍一下线路和定级:
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5.14c | |||||||||
5.14c | Power power | 10m | Seonun-san | Apr 2021 | |||||
3rd go
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5.14c | 辣椒 (Lajiao) | 38m, 22 | 马山 MaShan | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||||
#FA Unique tension crux to some beautifully simple crimp moves up high. Such an awesome route! Left finish to Nahan.
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5.14c | ★★★ 红点饭 Red Point Dinner - with 飞狼 | 40m, 19 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Wed 15th Feb 2023 | |||||
红完中国攀后去摸了一把,最难单步接近完成,但其实可能还差很多。臂展长一点会有优势。
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8c+ | |||||||||
8c+ Easy | ★★★ Greed | 30m, 10 | Ton Sai | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | |||||
First Thai Ascent... 😃
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5.14c | |||||||||
5.14c Hard | ★★★ 红点饭 Red Point Dinner | 40m, 19 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 11th Dec 2019 | ||||
Weeks of hard work. Definitely my hardest sent so far.
Long. Lower part 12c has a full rest on the tufa before entering another 25m of very sustain climbing on mostly very small and sharp holds. Crux is a dynamic move from smallest crimp possible and supper high left foot.
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V11/12 | |||||||||
V11/12 ~V12 | ★★★ project - with 超然 | 南高峰 Nan Gao Peak | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Jan 2023 | |||||
动作丰富,攀爬了两个session,还差3个动作分掉,分掉的每个动作都很极限。难点小pinch很割手,一天最多尝试5把,对肩背,核心,脚法,指力,爆发力,都是极大的考验,应该是目前国内开发出来的最难线路之一,
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8A/A+ | |||||||||
8A/A+ | Superstitious Wildboy - with first ascent | Ton Sai | Tue 19th Feb 2013 | ||||||
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8A/A+ ~8A+ | Mental Hospital - with first ascent | Ton Sai | Tue 19th Feb 2013 | ||||||
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V11 | |||||||||
V11 | ★★★ 董小姐直上 Miss Dong Direct (董小姐) - with 阿瑶 | 5m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Oct 2018 | ||||
右起~ 线路很漂亮很刺激 秋天是绝佳的攀爬季
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V11 | ★★★ 董小姐直上 Miss Dong Direct - with 浩浩 | 5m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Oct 2021 | ||||
有点吃臂展和能力...
起步手点感觉微妙,脚点极限,发力动作不平衡有随时开门的感觉。要在不平衡的状态下利用摆荡和下肢发力,出去之后左手不能脱,右手很大。后面就简单了。
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8A | |||||||||
8A | ★★★ Mud Monster - with first ascenting | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 10th Jan 2013 | |||||
This one won a public video competition in Ötztal back in 2013 - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wEgLu3pigzM&t=2s
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8A | ★★★ Roof Rocker - with first ascent | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Jan 2013 | |||||
Start the classic ten commandments and cross all the roof, finish in the Aurochs. Roof-traversing at it's best
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8A | Thai Machine - with first ascent | Ton Sai | Wed 19th Feb 2014 | ||||||
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8A | ★★★ Gaeng Tai Pla - with Paul, Jakob | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 15th Jan 2014 | |||||
Second ascent ever, many reps since |
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5.14b | |||||||||
5.14c | FA ★★★ Spicy Noodle | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | 2009 | |||||
FFA.
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5.14b | ★★ Tank 坦克 (Tank) - with 谭啸非 | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Mar 2020 | ||||
小角度的线路 脚的动作很多 对耐力有一定要求
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5.14b | ★★ Tank 坦克 - with 二大爷 | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★ Good | Sat 2nd May 2020 | ||||
呵呵,吊死狗~
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5.14b | 三只小蜜蜂 Three Little Bees (Three Little Bees) | 42m, 18 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Mon 19th Nov 2018 | |||||
Gnarly boulder problem at the very top of Lei Pi. Felt impossible in the heat and only slightly easier in perfect conditions. Stoked!
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5.14b | ★★★ 世外桃源 Hidden Paradise - with 自然 | 25m, 8 | 淄博 Zi Bo | ★★★ Classic | Fri 17th Sep 2021 | ||||
花了很多时间,终于分到了第五把快挂的位置。爬的时候岩壁很潮湿,无法捏着钟乳去挂第五把快挂,后面的线路并没有尝试。第1-5把快挂大概是5.13bc的难度。
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5.13c 5.14b | ★★ Tank 坦克 - with Gillian 炭喵 | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Dec 2021 | ||||
难点几乎一步一take,分的好艰辛,难点的扣扣、侧拉、pinch 都是左手,左手力量又好差😭
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5.14b | ★★ Tank 坦克 - with Mengdi | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Dec 2019 | ||||
人生第一条5.14b, 这种比较偏向于抱石线的短线还是比较难订级的;不过感觉上难度和Tricky Tracy比要稍难,比Space Jump简单
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle - with 77,子龙 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 24th Feb 2022 | ||||
16把
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle - with 子龙 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 4th Feb 2022 | ||||
2022年2月:
2/1攀爬 90分钟挂绳器捅上米粉第一个难点未能分步
2/4攀爬 3把攀爬 阳朔旅馆热身 分了2次米粉 第一个难点未能分步~
|
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5.14b | ★★★ 世外桃源 Hidden Paradise - with Eileen X Li | 25m, 8 | 淄博 Zi Bo | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | |||||
超出能力范围,起步至少v6,对手指压力很大。
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5.14b | ★★★ 狮子王 - with Zhengzheng, 西元 | 35m, 19 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 8th Dec 2022 | ||||
临安又一条精彩的线路,30度均匀仰角直上15m的难点部分,动作极富张力与想象力,需要极强的力量耐力,绝对的梦幻线路。
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle - with 你大K | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Mon 13th Mar 2023 | |||||
摸摸下半段感受一下
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle — 5 attempts - with 大坝 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Thu 16th Mar 2023 | ||||
难点分部完成,难点右手pinch比较吃摩擦力
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle — 9 attempts - with 任狐, 飞狼 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 20th Mar 2023 | ||||
第一次尝试就分布完成,以为是一条能力范围内的线,可惜爬了接近10把依然没有办法完整得将两个难点一起连起来,加上阳朔雨季的来临,只能把完攀计划放到冬季赛季。
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5.14b | ★★★ 狮子王 - with 任狐 | 35m, 19 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | Sat 22nd Jan 2022 | |||||
分了一把没分完,project。
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5.14b ~5.14a | ★★★ 法国流氓 French Gangster - with 阿爪 | 47m, 25 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Apr 2023 | ||||
是喜欢的直壁指力线 但是难点从左走挂脚韧带不行。。用人工点可以分步 也不算容易 算是分了一条美国黑帮吧 期待天气好再试
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5.14b | ★★★ 世外桃源 Hidden Paradise — 3 attempts | 25m, 8 | 淄博 Zi Bo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 27th Mar 2023 | ||||
已经分步完,线路很综合,扣,捏,屋檐都有,值得尝试
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle — 80 attempts | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th Mar 2023 | ||||
Working hard for 2 years.Ascent last moment to bite the bullet.
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5.14b | ★★★ 狮子王 | 35m, 19 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | ||||
慕名来尝试爬了一把 非常好的线路 中间15米的难点部分 大仰角 没有可以休息的地方 对耐力要求非常高。这条线路非常吃升高臂展 有两个动作没有分出来 172cm身高/170cm的臂展表示 这两个吃身高臂展动作几乎没戏。这条线路让我体会到矮个子的绝望 身高臂展被无情的碾压😂
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th May 2023 | ||||
基本分完,看看接下来还有没有天气窗口把难点连起来,再试试红线
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5.14b | ★★ Tank 坦克 | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★ Good | Tue 12th Sep 2023 | ||||
害,怎么说呢?就是感觉自己又行了……然而线路又抽了我俩耳光
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8c | |||||||||
8a+ |
Corazón de Ensueño P1
— 2 attempts
- with
丁凯1986, Enrique
| 240m | 安顺市 | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | |||||
超爽抱石线V4-V5-V4-V4,脚点很好,手点大部分都是反提,kneebar够多
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5.14b | |||||||||
5.14b Easy | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle - with Shining诗宁, 曹佳, 大师姐 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Thu 9th Nov 2023 | |||||
今年第二条14线路,个人感觉难点比中国攀简单一点,不过有两个,而且中间不好休息,第二个难点动作大发力,对我来说有很大考验
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5.14b | ★★★ 野百合 - with Ava | 30m, 14 | 咸宁 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Nov 2023 | ||||
全程都很精彩,没有好休息点,大耐力线,难点不尖锐,但很持续
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle - with 楚北 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 7th Mar 2024 | ||||
摸第一把就很喜欢的线路 指力大跨度加耐力风格
两个难点体感V7+V6(参考系:野抱/月亮板)
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5.14 | |||||||||
5.14 | ★★ 李白和杜甫 (李白和杜甫 Libai & Dufu) | 11m, 5 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | |||||
来都来了 斗胆摸了一遍,能做大概六个动作
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5.14 | ★★ 李白和杜甫 - with 青铜 | 11m, 5 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Feb 2022 | ||||
全程都很费指力,右手反提出左手那一步目前做不出来,溜了溜了
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5.14 | ★★ 李白和杜甫 — 3 attempts - with Eileen X Li | 11m, 5 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Jan 2023 | ||||
分了3把算是分出来了,但快挂还完全没办法挂。看起来遥遥无期
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5.14 ~5.14- | ★★ 李白和杜甫 - with 自由的半瓶水 | 11m, 5 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | ★★★ Classic | Thu 16th Feb 2023 | ||||
短小精悍的抱石类型线路,指洞与扣扣风格,定14的话会有点软
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5.14 | ★★ 李白和杜甫 - with RoyXu | 11m, 5 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Mar 2023 | ||||
原本想摸一下,意外的分了步。
全程抱石动作,二十个动作,基本都是小扣扣和指洞。
对于这条线,高个子和矮个子爬法很不一样,所以对于难度的感受也会很不一样。
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5.14 | ★★ 李白和杜甫 - with 夜行人, Yang | 11m, 5 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | Average | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | ||||
精准发力+指力
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5.14 ~5.13+ | ★★ 李白和杜甫 - with Nicole | 11m, 5 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | Sun 16th Apr 2023 | |||||
分了步 应该没有14 短小精悍
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5.14 ~5.14- | ★★ 李白和杜甫 — 6 attempts - with 竹得, 中华 | 11m, 5 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th May 2023 | ||||
三个session 总计六把完成 我的体感比“十年”略难 难点更加持续 吃肩背也吃指耐力 但是应该不会比蓝魔更难(也没有难度表难点五把挂难) 我的体感难度是13d偏软 期待更多大佬验证
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5.14 | ★★★ 串串香 — 3 attempts | 22m, 8 | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Jul 2023 | ||||
尝试了前5把快挂,难度约12a/b,有两个大动态很爽,先锋绳子影响跳跃,借用12号线的顶,用顶绳爬了两次,过过瘾。
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5.14 | E8 - with 丁凯1986 | 两头洞 U Cave | Crap | Thu 4th Apr 2024 | |||||
什么垃圾线,不爬也罢
|
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5.14 | ★★★ 8 - with 丁凯1986 | 35m, 16 | 两头洞 U Cave | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
3进4,可攀性不强,根本没有点,如果1mm算点的话,14的世界我不理解;排除前几把挂爬完一小段5.9后的中段应该是这条线的难点,sloper侧拉然后对抗转换身体,继续掐slpoer+一个扣;线路后端高端钟乳非常酸爽;
整体总结就是一直爆点持续冲坠;挂神器在手,14不是梦,aid其实也挺累的。感谢丁总先锋保护
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5.14 | ★★★ 8 - with Shadow | 35m, 16 | 两头洞 U Cave | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
前面难点没有点,没法爬,后面很棒的线路
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5.14a/b | |||||||||
5.14b 5.14a/b | ★★ Power of Love | 18m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd May 2020 | ||||
三个难点:从kneebar出右手(做熟练了就简单很多)出屋檐(右手反提左脚上高脚)翻屋檐(右手拍包上的小棱左手抓左边小抠抠把右脚挂高锁定出右手侧拉-> 变撑 -> 上左脚)连在一起;前后都相对来说比较简单。整条线像一个三层汉堡!
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5.13c 5.14a/b | ★★ Power of Love | 18m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | Sat 22nd Oct 2022 | |||||
翻屋檐难点未分步,怎么样把上半身转移到挂脚的右腿上是关键,爬完看了小鱼儿和浩浩的视频。
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5.14a/b ~5.13c | ★★ Power of Love — 5 attempts - with Comolanieve77, 非囧 | 18m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | ★ Good | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | ||||
凭良心说,这是我爬过第二快乐的5.14
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5.14a/b ~5.13c | ★★ Power of Love — 4 attempts - with 皮蛋, 涛哥, 狂人 | 18m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | |||||
周六
开始先锋,第一把皮蛋保护,翻出屋檐的时候想用反提,脚滑掉了,后来摸索了不用反提的爬法。第二把涛哥保护,翻屋檐之前没力了,几步横移容易小臂涨,之后试翻屋檐动作,一开始怎么也翻不上去,后来不断微调右手抓点的位置、手型,最后找到把食指中指无名指聚拢在一个指甲盖大小的水晶上的极限捏法才翻上去了。第一把爬了半个小时,第二把爬了接近一个小时。
周日
狂人保护爬了两把,第一把屋檐下出右手就掉了,第二把翻屋檐难点开始出右手掉。虽然累但是越爬总是越熟悉线路。3点开始下雨,提前撤。
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5.14a/b ~5.13c | ★★ Power of Love - with 大兵 | 18m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | Thu 5th Oct 2023 | |||||
翻屋檐难点优化了动作(左右腿夹住屋檐),感觉简单了很多。难点前面差不多12b难度。
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8b+ | |||||||||
8b+ | ★★ Jack Sparrow | 30m, 20 | Cantabaco | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Jan 2016 | ||||
Rad, will come back for this. Surprised myself by working out the moves on this, but dam fingery and well sustained. such amazing rock also.
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5.14a | |||||||||
5.14b 5.14a | ★★★ 中国攀岩 China Climb (Chinaclimb 中国攀) | 31m, 15 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Dec 2016 | ||||
Can work all the way to the top except for the most difficult move, the pinch is so small and sharp. But other moves looks promising, hopefully I can figure out the move next time I come to yangshuo
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8b+ 5.14a | ★★★ Schlong Again | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 24th Jul 2019 | |||||
这是一条超级棒的屋檐线路。
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5.14a | ★★★ Schlong Again | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 15th Jan 2020 | |||||
1st 5.14a Redpoint
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5.14a | ★★ 青蛙跺脚 Frog Stomp - with 美元 | 20m | 娄底湄江 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Oct 2018 | ||||
小抠抠,平衡,耐力
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5.14a | ★★ 不再寻找 Searching for no more (Searching for no more) | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★ Very Good | Mon 26th Feb 2018 | |||||
只完成第一段。
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5.14a | ★★★ 惊雷 Thunder Extension (Thunder) | 42m, 17 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 16th Oct 2018 | ||||
Damn that was a fight! Was on the wall for such a long time, always just resting for a long time then climbing real fast over one section, then resting again... Always beeing afraid of what's to come until I realised that I was clipping the chain. Great way to start the trip!
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5.14a | ★★★ 十年 Ten years (Ten years) | 35m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Oct 2018 | ||||
#2go One of the best routes I've done so far in Yangshuo! Something like a powerful V7/8 Boulder down low and a technical V6 up on top. Great Rock! Maybe 13d...
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8b+ | |||||||||
8b+ | ★★ Avocado Power | 22m, 9 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jan 2018 | ||||
#2go not all natural unfortunately. good line though
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5.14a | |||||||||
5.14a | Dreams and Hopes | Maisan | Sun 11th Oct 2020 | ||||||
5.14a | ★★★ 成王荡后 | 14 | 柳州 Liuzhou | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Feb 2021 | ||||
全新的挑战!非常特别的动作!超级经典的线路!
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5.14a | ★★★ 中国攀岩 China Climb - with 雷子 | 31m, 15 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Nov 2017 | ||||
挂顶前大钟乳掉了几次。一直记得挂顶的美好时刻。
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5.14a | ★★★ 中国攀岩 China Climb - with 卢春凤 | 31m, 15 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Fri 27th Dec 2019 | ||||
11 times
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5.14a | ★★★ 惊雷 Thunder Extension (Thunder 惊雷) - with 铭哥 | 42m, 17 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Tue 12th Nov 2019 | ||||
7times
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5.14a | ★★★ 成王荡后 - with 妙妙 | 14 | 柳州 Liuzhou | ★★★ Classic | Tue 29th Dec 2020 | ||||
18 times
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5.14a | ★★★ 惊雷 Thunder Extension (Thunder 惊雷) - with 蔡猛/浩浩…… | 42m, 17 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Apr 2021 | ||||
6/8(2020年2月 )线路动作比较适合 需要的耐力略极限~
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5.14a | ★★★ 十年 Ten years - with 飞狼, 小文 | 35m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 14th Apr 2021 | ||||
爬了三把蜻蜓加难点,现在蜻蜓还不敢出手再挂快挂和跳快挂,难点还不能轻松一口气爬完。
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5.14a | ★★★ 十年 Ten years - with 小文 | 35m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Apr 2021 | ||||
第一把分到胖猴难点没分掉就下来。第二把把胖猴难点分掉,还没挂难点后面快挂。第三把过了蜻蜓顶就掉了,拉绳子把手皮拉爆就下来了。
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5.14a | ★★★ 十年 Ten years - with 小文 | 35m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Apr 2021 | ||||
爬了五把,第一把和第五把蜻蜓就掉了,二三把爬了十年难点,出左手指洞关键是不能脱脚就能抓住了,第四把先锋到出右手后,挂右脚改踩的过程掉了。
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5.14a | ★★★ 十年 Ten years - with 萧** | 35m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | ||||
今天分步了两把,先锋依然蜻蜓掉,胖猴难点依然不轻松,胖猴后膝盖是顶住了,但消耗还是很大,还需要优化和增强耐力。
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5.14a | ★★★ 十年 Ten years - with 小文, xing哥 | 35m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Tue 20th Apr 2021 | ||||
分了两把难点,现在出左手动作由动态正身左脚蹬直改为直接拧膝盖蹬直左脚跟右手对抗再出右手,最后一把已经能先锋到最后左手抓指洞了,抓了三次没抓准下来了。应该把胖猴难点和后面爬熟了就能过了。
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5.14a | ★★★ 十年 Ten years - with 小文, 玄鸟 | 35m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Apr 2021 | ||||
四把,两把蜻蜓顶,两把到十年难点左手戳指洞。
今天最后一把延长了难点快挂,优化了难点节奏,戳指洞前其实可以左右各甩一次手,不脱脚戳到指洞没问题,戳准就看天了。
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5.14a | ★★★ 十年 Ten years | 35m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||
昨天三把蜻蜓顶冲加今天三把一样,第三把拿下。最后更新下胖猴难点动作,身体张开的时候,先过左手代替左脚发力,再收左脚回来踩点。
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5.14a | ★★★ 惊雷 Thunder Extension (Thunder 惊雷) - with 77 | 42m, 17 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | ||||
14把
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5.14a | Once Upon A Time | 15m | Samcheon-bawi | Wed 5th May 2021 | |||||
2nd go
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5.14a | ★★★ 成王荡后 - with XiaoGuang_晓光, Gillian 炭喵 | 14 | 柳州 Liuzhou | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Nov 2021 | ||||
knee bar 后向右横移不稳定,目前最好要 take 一把。
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5.14a | ★★★ 惊雷 Thunder Extension (Thunder 惊雷) - with 小蚂蚁 | 42m, 17 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 17th Oct 2021 | ||||
尝试了三把,终于可以把每个move做成功了,但是还连不起来。1st crux,出钟乳后,大约十个move,难度V6,最后一个move是站起来出右手反肩拍住,需要核心绷住。2nd crux,紧接第一个crux,难度V5,手点非常难抓,中间有个move吃臂展,我175臂展,勉强够到右手点,交叉脚非常困难。这个crux以一个d yno结束。3rd crux,反人性的一个插左脚出左手动作,我稍微改了下,先出左手抓上方小指洞,再插入左脚顶起来背腿,右手抓反提点。 4th crux,左手反肩抓大把手,右手下拉抓指洞,左右脚打开,左手上去拍平台。难度大约V2,这个crux之后就登顶了,很容易在此处力竭掉下。
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5.14a | ★★★ 成王荡后 - with 中华, Eileen X Li, 东哥, 右右 | 14 | 柳州 Liuzhou | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Dec 2021 | ||||
来了三次柳州,16个攀爬日,40多把尝试终于搞掉了。绝对耐力线,吃背,最有意思的地方是knee bar没搞顺之前特别难和累,搞顺了之后可以甩个30秒到1分钟手没问题。真是段难忘的经历,和大佬(中华)国庆每天研究动作试beta,回上海就刷耐力练力量,一直持续了整整两个月。这线没大佬陪一起磕一定遥遥无期,希望大佬也重整旗鼓下次来柳州搞掉它!
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5.14a | ★★★ 中国攀岩 China Climb - with 淡然 | 31m, 15 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Sat 8th Jan 2022 | |||||
有两步未分
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8b+ | |||||||||
8b+ | ★★ Poison Ivy | 18m, 5 | Hong Kong Island | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Jan 2021 | ||||
Maybe only 8b
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5.14a | |||||||||
5.14a | ★★★ 中国攀岩 China Climb | 31m, 15 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Fri 25th Feb 2022 | |||||
体验了一下难点之前,分步还行,明天去摸摸难点
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5.14a | ★★ 中国传奇 Cuento Chino | 41m, 15 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Sat 26th Feb 2022 | |||||
抓快挂到顶
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5.14a | ★★ 中国传奇 Cuento Chino | 41m, 15 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Sat 26th Feb 2022 | |||||
先锋分步到第一个钟乳了
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5.14a | ★★★ 中国攀岩 China Climb | 31m, 15 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Sun 27th Feb 2022 | |||||
分步难点后的动作,还剩难点左手小片的几个动作分不掉
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5.14a | ★★★ Space jump - with 77 | 14m, 8 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Mar 2022 | ||||
7把
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5.14a | ★★★ 小丸子 | 28m, 14 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Mar 2022 | ||||
4把
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5.13c 5.14a | ★★★ 十年 Ten years - with 亭毓 | 35m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Jun 2022 | ||||
用了高个子的动作,不过具体的小调整很多,第一个难点拍洞的时候要完全dyno才能抓到。小个子爬应该有13D,高个子可以直接静态发力没那么难
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5.13c 5.14a | ★★★ 小丸子 - with TU | 28m, 14 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Jul 2022 | ||||
比较简单.6把,随着爬法多了,远远没有14a,可能13C
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