Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6c+ |
★★★ Dry Season
1
6c
15m
2
6b
5m
3
6c
15m
4
6c+
15m
5
10m
| 60m | Batu Caves | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | |||||
Rope solo. I used the training anchor at ground level as my ground anchor. Linked the first two pitches to save effort. At the 3rd anchor I could just not work out how to get to the second of tufa above the cave to get to the next bolt. Looked like a few pretty exposed moves with a potentially very nasty fall swinging left, decided discretion was the better part of valour. Really enjoyed the 3rd pitch and the rest looks fun too, but probably better with a belayer. Next time hopefully.
|
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6b |
★★ Bottom Feeder
1
6b
18m
| 18m, 8 | Railay | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | |||||
Struggled to fit fingers in starting holds
|
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5.12c |
★★★ 新年快乐 Happy New Year
- with
lollypop
1
5.10a
22m
2
5.12c
11m
| 33m | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Dec 2020 | ||||
扣,技术型跑路
|
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7b |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
- with
Dan
1
6a+
25m
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
4
7b
27m
5
6b
12m
| 120m, 46 | Railay | Fri 25th Oct 2019 | |||||
3rd pitch was fantastic and the top pitches had spectacular positioning and exposure.
(crux beta: RH undercling to get left hand high to good pocket. Then feet up and big move RH to top underside of crack. Then left hand 30cm up over crack to pocket. Then either left up for side pull or right hand far out to big hidden corner edge jug.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Lord of the Thais - with Tom thecrusher | 53m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Jan 2020 | ||||
First 2 pitches only although I really regret not doing the 3rd! But a little ambitious on the 2nd day climbing in Railay. We'll have to account for more time to get used to the rock/exposure next trip.
|
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7a+ |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
1
6a+
25m
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
| 81m, 46 | Railay | Wed 12th Feb 2020 | |||||
First 3 pitches only.
Wicked exposure and great, non polished rock on pitches 2 and 3. Pulling through the roofs with that much air was something else. Beautiful views. Well bolted. Just a pain to rap off. |
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7a+ | ★★★ Lord of the Thais - with Peatey | 81m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Feb 2020 | ||||
So much fun, glad we did this. Ok fist pitch into non polished awesomeness. Pitch 2/3 were both constantly cool, varied climbing, with a hard crux after the joggy roof. Only first 3 pitches. Had many excuses for not doing the 7b - from its gonna storm to it looks hard to clean, but really we were just soft - next time (it did storm once down tho.. with a Chang in hand).
|
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5.12a |
★★★ 星光灿烂
- with
Chris_zzz
| 180m, 12 | 白河 Baihe | Mon 28th Aug 2023 | |||||
四点起是正确的打开方式!
|
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7a+ |
★★ Фангорн
- with
Magzhan Kenzheyev
1
6b
2
7a+
3
6c
4
7a+
5
6a
6
6b
7
5a
| Almaty | Sat 21st Aug 2021 | ||||||
Nice route with interesting moves on the harder pitches.
|
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7a+ |
★★ Фангорн
- with
Daniel
| Almaty | Sat 21st Aug 2021 | ||||||
Does climbing with your backpack adds a grade? Asking for a friend
|
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6a+ |
★ Caveman (Caveman P1)
1
6a+
15m
| 15m, 12 | Railay | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | |||||
First pitch only - 6a+
|
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7a+ |
★★★ Chúc Sức Khỏe
- with
Sơn, Lucas Low
1
6a+
29
lead by
Patrick-Anh Nguyen
Rock quality seems quite poor, but the pitch is a good warmup for the upcoming fun. | 96m, 60 | Hữu Lũng | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Jan 2024 | ||||
Great line with an amazing crew. Lots of variety and fun moves.
|
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6a+ |
★★ Circus Oz (Circus Oz P1)
1
6a+
25m
| 25m, 41 | Railay | Average | Sun 22nd Dec 2019 | ||||
first pitch was mediocre choss. also felt on the verge of fainting all of this day.
|
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6b+ |
★★★ Tigger
| 45m | Kowloon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Mar 2014 | ||||
Very close to insight P1, but fell.
|
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7a | ★ Les Sorbonnards - with Thibaud | 110m | Hữu Lũng | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Jun 2020 | ||||
Nice multipich. Almost felt on the last sloppy moves of the last pitch...
|
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7a |
★★ Ангмар
1
6b+
2
5b
3
6a+
4
6b+
5
7a
6
7a
| Almaty | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Sep 2021 | |||||
Nice climbing on the 5th pitch. Fell off the 6th because I broke a hold.
|
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6b+ |
★★★ Pai Noon Mai
- with
Olivier L
| 90m, 13 | Koh Phi Phi | Fri 4th Mar 2022 | |||||
Did it in 3 pitches. Good climb overall, easy for the grade. Rappel in 3 rapps of 30m with 60m single rope with no problems.
|
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7a |
★★ Circus Oz (Circus Oz Linkup Continental Drifters)
1
6a+
25m
2
6b+
25m
3
7a
45m
4
7a
28m
linkup Continental Drifters (7c+ linkup, retreated)
| 120m, 41 | Railay | Sat 7th May 2022 | |||||
With Michelle. Amazing route. 7a pitch is non stop fun, one tricky set of moves, the rest is all tech. Great climbing on tufa, some powerful and pumpy moves. Overall the route rewards versatility and route-reading. Made a mistake at the end - we ended up going up the last pitch of Contintental Drifter (7a on TheCrag, 7c+ in Sam Lightner's book). Felt like at last 7b+. Retreated off a couple of dubious bolts; make sure you get on the correct final pitch if doing this route. One of the best multipitches I've done.
|
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5.11c |
★★ 往事随风 (往事随风 Once Upon a Time)
- with
家决
1
5.9
38m
2
5.10b
30m
3
5.11c
28m
4
5.10d
26m
5
5.10a
25m
6
5.10b
30m
7
5.11a
24m
8
5.11b
30m
| 230m, 12 | 白河 Baihe | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Nov 2020 | ||||
交替领攀,11c掉了两次;第七段11a难点aid通过。其余onsight
|
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5.11b |
★★ Road Rage 路怒 (Road Rage)
- with
五九不欢
1
5.11b
2
| 39m, 8 | 清远英西 YingXi | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Dec 2020 | ||||
终于爬上了,果然如大嫂所说是我的风格,还好抽了个绳,咳咳
|
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5.11c |
★★ Unknown 2
- with
翻翻, Li Xiaoya
2
5.11c
22m
| 48m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | |||||
打卡,只爬了第一段,挂片数不对,应该是10个
|
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6a |
★ Monkeying Around (Monkeying Around P1)
1
6a
| 45m, 20 | Ton Sai | Fri 14th Feb 2020 | |||||
Doesn't worth it if you're not going to climb 2nd pitch.
|
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6c+ |
★★ No Name
- with
Carlos Granon
1
4c
180m
2
5c
3
6b+
4
6a+
5
6a+
6
6c+
7
4c
| 180m, 14 | 安顺市 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Aug 2014 | ||||
What a multipitch!
|
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6c+ |
Last Day
1
5
17m
2
6c+
15m
| 32m, 12 | Khao Jeen Lae | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | |||||
Amazing first pitch, second pitch did some work on then sacked it as running out of gas.
|
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5.11b |
★★★ 圆月弯刀
- with
灿哥
1
5.10c
27m
2
5.9
20m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.10c
30m
5
5.11b
27m
6
5.6
25m
7
5.6
34m
| 190m, 12 | 昌平 Changping District | ★ Good | Sat 5th Sep 2020 | ||||
距离上次爬千金裘将近2个月了,路上的植被茂密了好多,手上脚上各种被草割和蚊子咬。攀爬过程中爆点太多,掉了好多大石头,下降时绳子直接碰掉了一块大石头从我面前掉落,太吓人了。第四段大反提处有蜂窝,居然没看见被蛰了,好不容易要完攀结果掉了,还不能用大点,只能从左边抓小扣扣上脚。第五段暴露感有点强,虽然点大,但第一次爬还是很紧张。下降过程中由于绳子卡在石头上,我又没有及时取出,造成卡绳,下次一定要吸取教训。
|
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5.11b | ★★ 三飞 San Fei - with 蜜蜂, 董球球 | 140m, 10 | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Mon 21st Sep 2020 | ||||
本想爬小柏树,结果走过了爬成了三飞hhh。【昂塞勿看!】第一段轻松愉快。第二段layback+反提翻屋檐,先锋还是很危险的(个人难度10d+)。第三段slab第一个难点是连续两个不到五毫米的手点和脚点。上一个挂已经再脚下三米。还需要在一个五毫米宽的crimp并手,再接着出手一个五毫米宽的略open的crimp。脚从一个5毫米宽的脚点,交叉脚换到一个70度的小坡,脚穿mythos感觉大脚趾都快断了。。。结果就是达成了第一次结组冲坠。请爬过的老师交流一下beta。第二个难点是冲坠怂怕了+指力/脚力耗尽的两个绳距的平衡动作。这连续的三个绳距,冲坠+take了五六次,我不知道是不是有12的难度,但感觉至少要比曲径通幽难。。。爬到第四段手皮已经告急,但还算轻松。第五段就很愉快了。
白河的秋天还是很美的,景区的桥和大门都已经重新装修过了,望了望对面的little big wall和大屁股,还是要加把劲呀。
|
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5.11b |
★★★ 圆月弯刀
1
5.10c
27m
2
5.9
20m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.10c
30m
5
5.11b
27m
6
5.6
25m
7
5.6
34m
| 190m, 12 | 昌平 Changping District | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd May 2022 | ||||
35+ degrees, dehydrated, ran out of water and started becoming delusional. Bailed before killing self. Beautiful route!
|
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6c | ★★ Shadow of the Wall - with Manuli, Lucien | 92m | Pha Tam Kam | Fri 10th Mar 2023 | |||||
One super committing move up on the third pitch, but well worth the view and experience for Manuli's birthday. Definitely a one and down climb, but glad to have shared the experience with some Frenchies
|
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6c |
★★ Thai Stick
- with
Ben Day
1
6a
35m
lead by
Angie
Did the LHS variant of the 6a pitch, Ben belayed from the comfy ledge, not from the little cave on the right
2
6c
35m
overhung with powerful moves at a few spots. | 70m, 26 | Railay | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | |||||
What an epic, and intimidating climb! All worth it when you get to stand on the stalactite
|
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5.11a |
★★ 醉生梦死
- with
Dave
1
5.10c
30m
2
5.10b
30m
3
5.10b
27m
4
5.9
30m
5
5.11a
30m
6
5.6
20m
| 170m, 11 | 昌平 Changping District | Average | Fri 8th Jul 2022 | ||||
Pitch 1 was super fun, the 11a pitch was nice, and the rest was pretty crap. Pitch 3 is basically a mixed route of flaky shit and vegetation. Heel hooked on a root.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Monkey See, Monkey Do
- with
Andrew
1
6b
35m
2
4a
10m
3
6b+
20m
4
6b
35m
| 100m | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Sep 2019 | ||||
What a weird but stunning day. That's an amazing multipitch with an incredible view over the bay, also cause you are climbing past this big stalactites.
We aimed to climb "Beauty & The Beast" on "Monkey World" Wall but ended up accidentally on this wall, without knowing... We guess we climbed up over a route which isn't even in our guides. However, in our 3rd pitch we came on the 1st pitch of "MSMD". The 1st pitch of this route was a beautiful climb along 2 arêtes. Followed by the easy wa walking up access pitch to the next anchor. From here a bit more challenging pitch. And here is, where the beauty really starts. First of all, you climb past the big stalactites, witch the bay as amazing backdrop. Once you get on the last pitch you travers onto the big stalactite. It's a really mental climb. I needed to stay focused on the climb and not the environment, 120 meter above the ground on a free hanging rock feature. Definitely, I should go here again, but next time with 2 ropes, that makes life damn easier. Let me tell you, it's a bad idea to just abseil with one rope. In the end we abseiled one and the half or two hours in the dark, so start early. |
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6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15
2
6b
10
3
6a+
20
4
6b
22
5
6b+
25
6
6b
10
7
6a
10
| 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 4th Jan 2016 | ||||
The most memorable climb in Thailand for me. Amazing. Must climb!
|
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6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
| 100m, 45 | Ton Sai | Thu 23rd Dec 2021 | |||||
Great route... Should have left earlier, got smashed by the sun... Unfortunately read the beta wrong on the last pitch resulting in some lead falls.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Monkey See, Monkey Do
- with
athenais pioger, Gravity is a Myth
1
6b
20m
2
5b
10m
3
6b+
20m
4
6b
35m
| 85m | Ton Sai | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Feb 2022 | ||||
Pitches felt slightly easier than the grade.
As proposed we fixed a 60m rope on the belay anchor between P2 and P3, and we brought it up to the intermediate belay of P4 (the last pitch) on the big stalactite then rapped down from the top to this belay, which was a good idea because our rope get stuck in the middle of P4 and we had to climb again a bit !
|
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6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
7
6a
10m
| 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | Wed 4th May 2022 | |||||
Amazing route. Struggled for ages on P5 trying to climb the face only, then used the tufa which made it a lot easier. Super fun climb, traverses, faces, 3 dimensional climbing on the tufa, insane views. Not to be missed.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Nok Khao Mai Chai Nok Rao - with Kang | 200m, 12 | Khao Jeen Lae | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Nov 2022 | ||||
Lovely line and a step-up from "Corcovado" if you are looking for a slightly harder way to get to the summit of Khao Chin Lae. The 3 6b/+ pitches are stellar.
The cracks take some green, yellow and red cams if the runout gets too much. |
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6b+ Easy |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15
2
6b
10
3
6a+
20
4
6b
22
Had a little foot slip
5
6b+
25
The money pitch! Pretty cool having to stem and chimney on a sport route
6
6b
10
7
6a
10
Pitch 7 looked disgusting | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 29th Nov 2022 | ||||
Fun day out but need to get started early!
Combined ropes with the party ahead and did it in 2 rapels. Rapel 1 as usual than all the way to the ground from station 2, 2 60s comfortably reach it |
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6b | ★★★ Humanality - with zmz, Jenny | 67m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | ||||
第一次野外结组,上了四段,还有最精彩的钟乳劈叉那段没上,留给下次吧
|
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6b+ |
★★★ Aborist
1
6a
2
6a+
3
6b+
4
5c+
5
6b
6
5a
7
5c
8
6b
| 200m | Bukit Takun | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | ||||
Amazing 200m climb. Perfect for training long multipitches with fairly decent pitches.
|
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5.10d |
★★★ 千金裘
- with
Marius
1
5.10b
25m
2
5.10a
27m
3
5.6
28m
4
5.10d
21m
5
5.9
18m
6
5.10c
27m
7
5.6
30m
| 180m, 10 | 昌平 Changping District | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th May 2021 | ||||
Great new multipitch in Houhuayuan, consistent difficulty over a wide range of climbing styles
rock is stable and clean nearly onsighted the whole thing but feet slipped in chimney section on second to last pitch, blaming it on aged shoes keen to try 圆月弯刀 in a few weeks' time! |
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5.10d |
★★ 五花马
- with
Yun
1
28m
2
5.10d
30m
3
5.9
22m
4
5.9
20m
5
5.8
30m
6
5.9
20m
| 150m, 10 | 昌平 Changping District | Sun 16th May 2021 | |||||
P1 前两把硬得要命 花了快15分钟怎么爬都爬不上 后来放弃拿了树枝把第二把快挂挂上去 具体什么难度不好说但绝对不是10D
P2 超爽的平衡线 估计有10D-11A 有机会想再爬一边 P3-P6 比较简单 P6最好几米比较碎 P2 给5★ 其他的best forgotten |
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5.10d | ★★★ 歪裂直上 - with 老程 | 240m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Oct 2022 | ||||
40米的10d,夫复何求?以为全程不怎么需要用手,但最后一段还是用手使大劲儿了,不然下次还想爬。
|
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5.10d Hard |
★★★ 歪裂直上
- with
Qilin Li
1
5.7
24m
2
5.10b
32m
3
5.10c
28m
4
5.9
24m
5
5.10d
40m
6
5.10a
30m
7
5.10b
23m
8
5.10a
40m
| 240m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th May 2023 | ||||
这次攀登是一次非常艰难而幸运的经历,没有造成事故实属万幸。没有提前充分了解好线路信息是一个非常大的错误,严重低估了线路的挑战性。
前三段领攀都能onsight,第四段5.9以为会更简单,结果感觉似乎比前面的10c还难点,离顶站还有2把挂的时候冲坠并下意识抓了一把绳,导致手指略有烧伤、破皮,心态有点崩溃。
第五段开始是直上的线路,也是最难的一段。最开始因为保护站挡住了比较合适的起步位置,起步走错方向导致第二次冲坠,指甲裂了两个,心态更为崩溃。随后调整了保护站位置,再次攀爬,但是体能和心态都处于比较差的状态,这一段花费了几乎一个小时时间,各种抓挂休息。途中已经感觉自己体力透支,担心怕不完线路,所以通过对讲机呼叫了旁边线路的小雅和强哥说明可能需要救援(当时由于心态过于紧张着急,已经忽视了我可以通过下降来下撤的可能性)。
硬着头皮干完了第五段,又费了很大力气把跟攀的麒麟老师保护上来。线路难度超出跟攀者能力较多,只能各种抓绳抓快挂;用上了3:1系统和5:1系统拉人,但是线路太长、摩擦力太大,似乎没什么效果。两个人都爬完第五段已经是下午六点了,距离天黑还有1小时。
第六段相对轻松一些,但是因为太累了所以保命要紧,快挂能抓则抓。到顶后强哥也从顶上放了70m单绳下来,正好可以到第六段的顶,随后现场教麒麟老师使用上升器和龟龟上升,我自己使用抓结+龟龟上升。因为最后两段线路曲折,所以还要各种操作减少磨绳。最终到达线路顶端已经是晚上九点半,后续开车回乡隆吃晚饭。
体力透支的可能原因之一是我因为着急抢时间所以过程中没有好好停下来吃东西。心态不够强大也是一个问题。另外没有充分了解线路,slab的线路和自己想象中的风格、难度体感都差异太大(即使去年已经在迪士尼岩场体验过了类似风格),一受挫就不淡定了。
幸运的是我们早上出发前决定带上对讲机,每个队伍拿一个以便沟通。以及抓结和龟龟等装备也相对齐全,自己也自学过一些绳索操作技术。
感谢小雅和强哥帮忙救援,感谢大坑在乡隆救援待命,感谢麒麟老师全程保持稳定的情绪使得整个过程有惊无险。经过这次洗礼,感觉自己的攀岩风险认知又有了质的飞跃。希望大家都能安全攀爬,享受攀岩乐趣。
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5.10d |
★★★ 歪裂直上
- with
panyixin, 小跳kexin, 赵凯
3
5.10c
28
lead by
赵凯
没印象了,可能没尖锐难点。
4
5.9
24
lead by
赵凯
因为爬到这太饿有点低血糖吗,还是说不会爬这种地形,体感难度不止.9吧QAQ怎么描述之后才不会忘呢,叫3d打印地形?
5
5.10d
40
lead by
panyixin
mega classic,几个横切考验脚法和心脏,不是不能爬。大光板往左绕屈辱抱树,能力太差,感觉不绕的话无解。现在回想被这段slab虐的滋味竟然甘之如饴,静水流深,再来挑战。
6
5.10a
30
lead by
赵凯
似乎有个小仰角和小裂缝,挺有意思的。
7
5.10b
23
8
5.10a
40
| 240m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | ||||
感谢各位老师大半夜辛苦拽我们&听我聊东聊西23333捡拾一堆经验包,爱白河,爱白河社区!
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5.10a A0 | ★★★ Soul’s Awakening - with Lixuan Guan | 8m | 黎明 Liming | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th Nov 2023 | ||||
觉醒了两段,愉快下撤。
|
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5.10d |
★★ 五花马
- with
panyixin, 晓天
1
5.10d
28
lead by
panyixin
阿潘做人行为大赏:挂上第一把挂后,“垃圾线”,遂抓挂;用胆小鬼连捅到第三把开始先锋后,“wc,什么玩意儿”,遂踩挂片。晓天跟攀时也是抓绳抓挂,这段单步难点确实tricky,光滑slab无脚点+垂直方向竖楞手点。一进二那阿潘beta是左手搂棱向右站起来抓反提,我尝试了一把感觉太远,静态往右推的时候左脚蹭墙找点踩了挂片,右手借助了三分之一单指节的crimp过渡站了起来,感觉是长人友好crux。出第三把算是次难点,头顶的pocket看着小,敢发力就会发现是jug。不算free就打卡aid吧。
2
5.10c
30
lead by
panyixin
出第一把挂处犹豫了很久,是大发力抢更高且看着也不太好抓的楞还是用中间竖楞转重心,最后还是选了后者上高脚。后面就是踩墙皮踩竖楞,不简单也算不上难的slab,很好玩。为了不take爬得很谨慎,好喜欢这种观察未知线路的动脑时刻,慢慢发现石头的每个纹理继而思考身体姿态转移重心,非常非常享受。整体感知P2最值得咂摸,其他pitch一般般。 | 150m, 10 | 昌平 Changping District | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | |||||
9时10分开爬,14时10分top,三个j人的快乐chill局,感谢阿潘和晓天搭档。每个保护站都很舒服,背靠岩壁发呆的时候,看满山春花如雪,能清晰地听到风从山谷缝隙中擦过,太阳晒得暖和舒展,大抵是心旷则神怡。
|
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6b |
★★ Chinese New Year
- with
Henrique de Almeida Mendonça
| 130m | Pha Tam Kam | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Jan 2019 | ||||
Simulclimbed first and second pitches. 6b pitch felt soft. Shame for the sharp top, the rope got stuck and Henrique had to go up some choss to free it. Very much enjoyed the whiskey bottle at the top
|
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6b |
★ Ichineesanghait
1
5c
28m
2
6b
28m
| 56m | Batu Caves | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | |||||
Rope solo. Threads at ground level for anchor. One rest on the second pitch, wasted time moving left onto the wrong line before I realised that my line was on the right, had to faff around to get back on track. When doing the second pitch remember to bear right as you get to the slight overhang, to avoid going onto TJ.
|
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6b |
★★ Wards Groove
1
4+
2
5
3
6b
4
6a+
| 55m | Kowloon | Sat 7th Dec 2019 | |||||
th exposed itch super fun, lead, but could not make overhung dyno to mother of all holds, back down top roped it
|
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6b |
★★ Big Wave
- with
Adam Cufer
| 110m, 33 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Apr 2022 | ||||
Pretty good route! Amazing view of the beach and town the whole way up, with railay in the background.
Some sharp climbing and honeycomb limestone which makes for great feet but spiky hands. Trad moves make the whole climb feel way more secure despite the inevitable moisture and humidity. Took us about 5 hours, but we were definitely faffing a lot. Would recommend, excellent adventure. |
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5c+ |
★★ Redemption Song (Redemption Song P1)
1
5c+
28m
| 28m | Batu Caves | Thu 10th Nov 2022 | |||||
First pitch only
|
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6b+ |
★★ Joob Joob
1
6a+
32
2
6a+
18
3
6b+
34
| 84m, 32 | Ao Nang Tower | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Feb 2023 | ||||
First, big thumbs up for the new route! It is a great, adventurous experience, with the kayak approach and all.
Most of the route on rock that is sharp, brittle, or both. Especially first pitch is therefore a bit scary, even more so if you have another party below you at the anchor. Please wear helmets.. It gets somewhat better as you climb up. Comfy belaying anchors, hard to communicate at the second half of the 3rd pitch. For about half of the 3rd pitch the rock quaility suddently changes and it's great for a while. Enjoy, while it's not polished |
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6b |
★★ Make Takun Great Again
1
6b
Quick dash on the left. Too scared to commit so had a bit of dogbone dragging.
2
6a+
Confuddled by the crux move over onto the roof. Heel didn't quite feel right and neither did smearing - Kelly tells me there was a hidden left crimp.
3
5c+
Finally a gentle pitch on us 🙏. | 100m | Bukit Takun | ★ Good | Sat 28th Oct 2023 | ||||
Suuper sloppy approach for Singaporeans in slippers. Need to bring a lot more water next time.
|
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5.10c |
★ Korean Rose
- with
Meteor
1
5.8
27m
2
5.10b
32m
3
5.9
17m
4
5.8
20m
5
5.10c
21m
6
5.7
17m
| 130m | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Sat 19th Mar 2022 | |||||
1st pitch was wet and dirty after a week of rain but otherwise excellent multipitch experience. Lost way and couldn't find bolts from 4th bolt on fourth pitch.
|
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5.10c |
★★★ 歪瓜裂枣
1
5.7
24m
2
5.10b
32m
3
5.10c
28m
4
5.9
24m
5
5.10c
32m
6
5.10a
33m
7
5.9
24m
8
5.9
25m
9
5.10a
25m
| 250m | 白河 Baihe | Sun 16th Oct 2022 | |||||
很不错,加上找路5个半小时搞定,但是后半截的5.9很硬,最后一段挂片数量不对,感觉很疲劳,体能需要修炼
|
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5.10c |
★★★ 歪瓜裂枣
- with
老聶
1
5.7
24m
2
5.10b
32m
3
5.10c
28m
4
5.9
24m
5
5.10c
32m
横切很刺激
6
5.10a
33m
7
5.9
24m
8
5.9
25m
9
5.10a
25m
最后一段最精彩 | 250m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 26th Apr 2023 | ||||
老聶带我来歪裂结组 交替领攀 我跟老聶说最刺激的横切那段留给我领攀 结果最精彩的最后一段老聶说也让我领攀😂
这条线很白河 很经典 尤其横切一整段绳距 刺激
|
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5.10c | ★★★ 跑签证 - with marvin, 1+, panyixin | 75m, 10 | 白河 Baihe | Sun 14th May 2023 | |||||
也是条风景不错的结组线,群山熨贴身心。适合带朋友体验,下降和保护的站都很舒服。感谢马老师信任搭档。到每个站时额外讲了讲多段lead和rappel的操作要点,整体节奏偏慢。玩绳子就会很开心!
|
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5.10c | ★★★ 跑签证 - with Fuafrank | 75m, 10 | 白河 Baihe | Sat 17th Jun 2023 | |||||
接近离谱……手被栗子壳扎进去了……没带水上墙……脱水+中暑,双绳下降没带脑子,回德来家洗洗睡了
|
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5.10c |
★★★ 歪瓜裂枣
7
5.9
24m
快乐跟攀
8
5.9
25m
快乐跟攀 | 250m | 白河 Baihe | Fri 3rd May 2024 | |||||
和weiyan的首次搭档,特别感谢皮蛋,小雅,可爷老师的指路和帮助,以及来自halu 阿伟 依诺老师的装备支持,攀爬需注意合理规划时间和补给,接近路线难找又难走,但这次整体顺利无冲坠,宝贵的攀爬经历
|
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5.10b | ★★★ 新年快乐 Happy New Year (Happy New Year Linkup Happy Jun Jun) - with Cat A | 130m, 10 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Nov 2019 | ||||
Touted as the best multipitch in Yangshuo! First pitch was quite polished and not the best...I took a wrong turn setting off on P3 and accidentally climbed up the first pitch of 'Happy Jun Jun' , rapped back when I realised and then set off up the correct pitch. P3 was face climbing on sharp limestone formations.
Cat A had a battle with P4.
P5 was legit crack climbing on limestone, with the crack starting as fist jam, and becoming off-width.
We skipped the short P6 to the summit , which requires slings to protect.
For the descent we made to it to the ground in 2 rappels from the top of P4, using an 80m rope. |
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5.10b | ★★★ 新年快乐 Happy New Year (Happy New Year) - with DS | 120m, 10 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Thu 31st Oct 2019 | |||||
when u wanna do a nice easy multi for your last day in yangshuo, but you get sandbagged ¯_(ツ)_/¯
Double check the topo before P3 or you may find yourself going up a 5.11c instead like we did. Don't bother with P6 - it's sharp, rubbish, the "summit" is sharp & uncomfortable, and the views are better lower down. If you really want to do it, don't link it with P5 unless you're very confident your second can get through the crack - if they fall there are no holds to pull up on and you won't be able to hear each other! |
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5.10b |
★★★ 新年快乐 Happy New Year (Happy New Year)
1
5.9
27m
2
5.8
22m
3
5.9
22m
4
5.9
22m
5
5.10b
18m
6
5.7
10m
| 120m, 10 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | ||||
Linked pitches 2&3, which was a bad idea because both ends are hanging belays on the painful rock, and 5&6.
Was expecting the crux to be gr19 face climbing not 19 crack climbing which is a taller order for me! Tried to offwidth it, fell out, then spotted a crucial face foothold. Still required one fist jam move! The other pitches were better than expected, with cool bottomless corners and generally quite consistently exposed. Slow to get down with a 60m as we couldn’t link any raps. The top out is definitely worth it, 360 views! |
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5.10b | Paparazzi Pete Trad Multi-Pitch (Paparazzi Pete) - with 小西瓜最爱红配绿 | 110m | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||||
哈哈,爬错了一段,也就log吧
|
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5.10b |
★★★ 新年快乐 Happy New Year
- with
自由的半瓶水, Carson(大明), Maring(土豆)
| 120m, 10 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 11th Jan 2023 | ||||
第一次实战结组,操作不是很熟练,攀爬的又是新路线,花的时间比较长。克服了一些对暴露感的恐惧。最后,在黑夜中下降,生怕错过了保护站。希望下次能更顺利。(感谢水哥靠谱的带领以及大明无畏的领攀)
|
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5.10b ~5.10d |
★ It’s Just a Ride 过客而已
- with
微波炉
1
5.8
28
2
5.9
30
3
5.8
25
4
32
5
5.7
28
6
5.10b
30
平衡小抠抠杀人。
7
5.7
30
8
5.10a
27
烟囱杀人。 | 230m, 8 | 石鼓 Shigu | Average | Sun 12th Feb 2023 | ||||
这辈子爬过最难的5.7、5.8、5.9、5.10a、5.10b。前7段不需要用到塞子(基本上),可以背在包里。
|
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5.10b | ★★★ 青龙 Azure Dragon - with 一纯, Fuafrank | 220m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | |||||
第一次攀岩不用手,狠狠的感受了白河的摩擦力。风景很好,运气好多云天气也没有怎么被晒。
|
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5.10b |
★★★ 青龙 Azure Dragon
- with
一纯, 小西瓜最爱红配绿
| 220m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | |||||
第一次结组攀登!好爽!全靠油管视频和小西瓜老师的耐心教导!十分感谢小西瓜老师和一纯老师的保护和指导!爬得好舒服~6小时顺利登顶~从此爱上结组
|
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5.10b | ★★ 三不 Loser's Happiness - with Li Xiaoya, 小西瓜最爱红配绿 | 140m, 10 | 白河 Baihe | Wed 27th Sep 2023 | |||||
好喜欢爬结组,最快乐的是绳降!人太怂不敢先锋的代价就是在中间跟攀-上方保护-先锋保护-跟攀无缝衔接,连续四小时不间断有氧,最后两段脚后跟好疼只能拿命硬爬爬得一路小跑爬到起飞。爬完slab之后脚后跟好痛明天我想回归直壁舒适区。再次感叹瓜神和雅神的强无敌,偶像!!
|
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6a |
★★ 2000 Steps
1
5b+
80m
2
6a
3
5b+
4
5c+
| 80m | Bukit Takun | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Jun 2022 | ||||
Beautiful route, can get sharp rocks at times. Approach is technical, will take time and sap energy, take note.
|
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5c+ |
★ Who is Ho
- with
Cat A, chris, amelia
| Bukit Takun | Tue 21st May 2019 | ||||||
Single pitch climbing day, so only did the first pitch. Used a hand-jam on the first move.
|
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5.10a |
★ 皂角树
- with
喳喳
1
5.9
25m
2
5.10a
35m
| 60m, 10 | 昌平 Changping District | Average | Sun 15th Mar 2020 | ||||
The second pitch is too long. It's better to carry a 70+ meters rope.
|
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5.10a | ★★★ 白虎 White Tiger - with YSL | 160m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | Mon 2nd Nov 2020 | |||||
第五段的难点要小心,先锋的时候保护员看不见,挂第三个挂的时候有点危险,冲坠直接冲到了底下平台,有树保护但是还是要当心!
|
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5.10a | ★★★ 白虎 White Tiger - with Fuafrank | 230m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 16th Jun 2023 | ||||
4点起床5点开爬,跟随白河的日出一起登顶,用时2h50min。下山后一看表,早上9点,美好的一天才刚刚开始!回德来洗洗睡了。总之是非常顺利的一次攀登,又快又好,我心心念念的先锋升级也达成了。谢谢jason老师背水背香蕉,谢谢瓜瓜上周带我们爬青龙
|
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5.10a |
★★★ 白虎 White Tiger
- with
Fuafrank, sarah, 一纯
7
5.5
31m
8
5.5
40m
登顶的一瞬间天完全黑下来了! | 230m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | Fri 17th Nov 2023 | |||||
一个多月没见,甚是想念(白河和朋友们都是)
|
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5.9 | ★★★ The Monument 纪念碑 - with 暖冰, Singing | 48m, 6 | 白河 Baihe | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Sep 2022 | ||||
.3 .75 1,还有两个树可以做保护点
|
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5.9 |
★★★ The Monument 纪念碑
- with
叮当, 小雨
1
5.9
26m
2
5.9
22m
| 48m, 6 | 白河 Baihe | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Oct 2022 | ||||
第一条线,只爬了第2段,线路中间有个大马蜂窝,还好现在没有马蜂,看着真吓人。红线秘籍,遇到难点就向左走。
|
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5.9 |
★★★ The Monument 纪念碑
- with
翻翻, Li Xiaoya
1
5.9
26m
| 48m, 6 | 白河 Baihe | ★ Good | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | ||||
为了打卡,爬了第二段,挂片数不对,第二段6个挂片
|
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5.9 |
★★★ The Monument 纪念碑
- with
靳毅
1
5.9
26m
2
5.9
22m
| 48m, 6 | 白河 Baihe | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Nov 2022 | ||||
做了好久的心里建设,终于鼓起勇气爬了传统线,算是比较愉快的onsight了,感觉爬传统有一点点进步。塞子0.3~3号,3条扁带套树,带了4号但是没用上。
今天气温10度,阴天,无风,穿着软壳感觉不冷,岩壁摸着也可以。
确认了一下,第二段5.9,一共6个挂片。
|
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5.9 |
★★ 크로니 (크로니 (Crony))
- with
김현종, Youngchae Son
7
8
9
| Insubong | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Oct 2019 | |||||
1피치를 끊고 2피치를 진행할 수도 있는데, 1,2피치를 한번에 진행할 수도 있음.
|
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5.8 | ★★ L'Echo des Montagnes - with Cat A | 150m | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Nov 2019 | ||||
Super easy multipitch with a topout, swinging leads.
P1 and P5 were fairly interesting, with P2, P3 and P4 more like vertical walking.
The belay stance at top of P4 is a hanging belay and there's a touch of exposure as you set off on P5, but its well protected, and easily 5.8.
Some of the pitches are so long and wandering, you really can't hear each others calls. So make sure you've got nonverbal communication dialled. Total time up: 2hr. Total time for round trip: 3hr15min. With plenty of photos taken and exploring the topout. For the descent, the guidebook recommends a 10m rappel from the top to the main rap station, and then either two short rappels (<30m) or using two ropes a long rappel (~60m) to a "wall", and then either walk through the cave (35m rap) or stay on the same side (30m rap). We found the main rappel station had been left with two 60m ropes joined together by flat overhand, and the bolt hangers on this station were pretty corroded. Not knowing the origin of these ropes, or liking the look of the bolt hangers, we didn't use them. With our 80m rope, we reached the mid-rap anchor from the top, and then rapped to the "wall". We then walked through the cave and did the 35m rap to the ground. |
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6b+ |
★ Шир
- with
Zhenya Son
1
5a
2
5c
3
6a+
4
6b+
5
6b
6
6b+
7
5a
| 8 | Almaty | ★ Good | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | ||||
Retreat before crux of the 4th pitch due to heavy rain
|
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5.7 |
★★★ Grandfathered In
| 40m | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Thu 14th Sep 2023 | |||||
Got smashed by rain 20mins into the route. Sat in a cave and watched Borat. Then scootered home in the rain for a gym session
|
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6a |
★★ 2000 Steps
1
5b+
80m
2
6a
3
5b+
4
5c+
| 80m | Bukit Takun | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | ||||
5 people party taking ages on the last pitch, we rappelled. Otherwise a splendid route.
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5 |
★★ Tin Hau
1
5
30m
2
5
26m
| 56m | Lantau Island | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Mar 2024 | ||||
Climbed the first two pitches, my second didnt want to continue after the first, so I went up one more than back down.
Seemed like a nice climb, had a fair bit of smog and it was pretty hot directly in the sun. |
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6c |
★★★ Equatorial P1
1
6c
35m
| 35m, 19 | Railay | Wed 15th Nov 2023 | |||||
Just first pitch
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5.11c |
★★★ Like a Lizards Elbow
- with
DavideT
| 35m, 19 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Jan 2024 | ||||
This route will challenge your onsight ability. Very interesting crux following by relaxing and adventurous climb. The view from the top is stunning! Really recommend this climb. You can use 70m rope, but lowering go to the anchor of the 1st pitch, change your anchor point there and then you can lower to the ground from the anchor of the 1st pitch.
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5.11b | ★★★ 金刚角 The Donkey Kong Dihedral - with 蜜蜂 | 120m | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd May 2023 | ||||
漂亮的线路,但接近好难,休息日本想去拍拍照却被迫来了波有氧训练,第四段带胆小鬼真香。
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6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
- with
Daniel Borsi
7
6a
| 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Nov 2019 | ||||
What an absolute classic. The first couple of “pitches” were just shitty choss but quickly forgotten with the next few pitches of glory. The first 6b pitch was delightful with some cool tufas. The next 6b+ had perhaps the highest novel factor in anything I’ve climbed - just as the holds on the awesome face climb run out you fall hands-first our on a huge stalactite with 100m of air underneath you. So cool. The final pitch kicked my ass and I whipped three times before putting it together. Heaps of exposure the whole way up.
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6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
- with
reiko climber
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
7
6a
10m
| 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th Oct 2023 | ||||
Awesome view. Must to do in Tonsai
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6b |
★★ Chinese New Year
- with
Hayley Ho
| 130m | Pha Tam Kam | Fri 30th Dec 2022 | |||||
Sharp rock. Descent in the dark.
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6b |
★★ Big Wave
1
6a+
30m
2
6b
25m
3
6b
26m
4
6b
30m
| 110m, 33 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Feb 2024 | ||||
Amazing climbing!
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5.10c |
★★★ 跑签证
— 2 attempts
- with
XiaoDong
1
5.10c
26m
2
5.8
25m
3
5.8
24m
| 75m, 10 | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd May 2023 | ||||
真的很很很很好玩的线!因为要赶车所以没来得及爬绿卡,下次一定!
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5.10b | ★★ 顶峰的啤酒 - with 单色彩虹, 鞍山岩友 | 73m, 8 | 鞍山 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | ||||
Pitch 1 should be 5.6, and pitch 2 5.9. Pitch 3 is almost entirely friction-dependent. 第三段2进3非常吓人,冲坠绳给紧了容易怼脚踝和膝盖,给多了容易直接坠落到一个斜着的ledge上,slab爬得不是很扎实的话这步最好用挂绳器。在之后坡面倾角更大了就比较容易,但没手点,就得走上去,脚累的话挺吓人。这次脚太疼没坚持到顶,顶峰的啤酒下次再喝,哈哈。
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5.10a | ★★★ 白虎 White Tiger - with 二级 | 160m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Oct 2023 | ||||
没找到起点,爬第三段的时候往左看看到了挂片才惊觉前三段爬的青龙……从第四段才换到白虎。十月初温差大,早上冻的瑟瑟发抖,到顶上又热的脱成短袖。总之是愉快的攀爬,第一次领攀,好像终于get到了白河slab敢踩就能上的说法。前一晚从兴客来打包的葱油饼带到岩壁上吃非常好吃!
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5.10a | ★★★ 白虎 White Tiger - with 杨奕诺🐇 | 230m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | Wed 1st May 2024 | |||||
3h结束,感谢可爷指路,还有Jenny老师带飞,愉快的攀爬,牛掰的是结束之后下午又爬了5把单段线路
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5+ |
★★★ Gweilo
1
4+
22
2
5+
12
3
5
13
4
5+
28
| 75m | Kowloon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | ||||
Some really fun climbing with some really cool views
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5.9 |
★★★ 二零一二 2012
- with
老毒
1
5.9
18m
2
5.7
20m
3
5.5
28m
4
5.8
20m
5
5.8
20m
6
5.9
25m
| 130m, 10 | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th May 2022 | ||||
和老毒搭档,由于体重悬殊太大由我全程先锋上去。作为小白的第一次进阶,圆满。
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5.8 |
★★ L'Echo des Montagnes
- with
reiko climber, 陆塔塔
1
5.8
25
2
5.7
40
3
5.7
30
4
5.7
25
5
5.8
30
| 150m | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Tue 2nd May 2023 | |||||
垂降到懸岩保護站,落繩時卡繩,沒帶繩刀,另外一頭剛好夠長,單繩下到Via Ferrata的地方,穿過山洞轉單繩下降... 連假最後一天來不及在爬一次,繩子跟主鎖留在上面等其他大佬去拿了... 感受到陽朔的溫暖...
Rappelling down to the cliffside station, my rope got jammed while falling the rope. I had forgotten to bring the knife. Luckily, the other end of the rope was long enough to reach the Via Ferrata, where I went through a cave and continued my descent on a single rope. Unfortunately, it was the last day of the holiday and I didn't have enough time to climb up again. I had to leave my rope and carabiner there, waiting for other experts to retrieve them. Nonetheless, I felt the warmth of Yangshuo. |
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5.14a | ★★ 不再寻找 Searching for no more (Searching for no more) | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★ Very Good | Mon 26th Feb 2018 | |||||
只完成第一段。
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5.14a | ★★★ 惊雷 Thunder Extension (Thunder) | 42m, 17 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 16th Oct 2018 | ||||
Damn that was a fight! Was on the wall for such a long time, always just resting for a long time then climbing real fast over one section, then resting again... Always beeing afraid of what's to come until I realised that I was clipping the chain. Great way to start the trip!
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