Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6c+ |
★★★ Dry Season
1
6c
15m
2
6b
5m
3
6c
15m
4
6c+
15m
5
10m
| 60m | Batu Caves | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | |||||
Rope solo. I used the training anchor at ground level as my ground anchor. Linked the first two pitches to save effort. At the 3rd anchor I could just not work out how to get to the second of tufa above the cave to get to the next bolt. Looked like a few pretty exposed moves with a potentially very nasty fall swinging left, decided discretion was the better part of valour. Really enjoyed the 3rd pitch and the rest looks fun too, but probably better with a belayer. Next time hopefully.
|
|||||||||
7c+ |
★★★ Afterburner
1
6c+
22m
2
7c+
35m
| 57m, 11 | Bukit Keteri, Perlis | Tue 24th Sep 2019 | |||||
6b |
★★ Bottom Feeder (Bottom Feeder P1)
1
6b
18m
| 18m, 8 | Railay | Fri 21st Feb 2020 | |||||
6b |
★★ Bottom Feeder
1
6b
18m
| 18m, 8 | Railay | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | |||||
Struggled to fit fingers in starting holds
|
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7a |
★★★ Black Cat (Black Cat P1)
1
7a
30m
| 30m, 20 | Ton Sai | Thu 12th Mar 2020 | |||||
5.12c |
★★★ 新年快乐 Happy New Year
- with
lollypop
1
5.10a
22m
2
5.12c
11m
| 33m | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Dec 2020 | ||||
扣,技术型跑路
|
|||||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Lord of the Thais (Lord Of The Thais P1)
| 25m, 46 | Railay | Wed 6th Mar 2019 | |||||
7b |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
- with
Dan
1
6a+
25m
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
4
7b
27m
5
6b
12m
| 120m, 46 | Railay | Fri 25th Oct 2019 | |||||
3rd pitch was fantastic and the top pitches had spectacular positioning and exposure.
(crux beta: RH undercling to get left hand high to good pocket. Then feet up and big move RH to top underside of crack. Then left hand 30cm up over crack to pocket. Then either left up for side pull or right hand far out to big hidden corner edge jug.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Lord of the Thais - with Tom thecrusher | 53m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Jan 2020 | ||||
First 2 pitches only although I really regret not doing the 3rd! But a little ambitious on the 2nd day climbing in Railay. We'll have to account for more time to get used to the rock/exposure next trip.
|
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7a+ |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
1
6a+
25m
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
| 81m, 46 | Railay | Wed 12th Feb 2020 | |||||
First 3 pitches only.
Wicked exposure and great, non polished rock on pitches 2 and 3. Pulling through the roofs with that much air was something else. Beautiful views. Well bolted. Just a pain to rap off. |
|||||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Lord of the Thais - with Peatey | 81m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Feb 2020 | ||||
So much fun, glad we did this. Ok fist pitch into non polished awesomeness. Pitch 2/3 were both constantly cool, varied climbing, with a hard crux after the joggy roof. Only first 3 pitches. Had many excuses for not doing the 7b - from its gonna storm to it looks hard to clean, but really we were just soft - next time (it did storm once down tho.. with a Chang in hand).
|
|||||||||
6c |
★★★ Equatorial (Equatorial P1)
1
6c
35m
| 35m, 19 | Railay | Sat 20th Feb 2021 | |||||
7b |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
- with
Olivier L
1
6a+
25m
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
4
7b
27m
5
6b
12m
| 120m, 46 | Railay | Sun 27th Feb 2022 | |||||
7b |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
- with
akif
1
6a+
25m
lead by
akif
2
7a
28m
3
7a+
28m
4
7b
27m
5
6b
12m
| 120m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 11th Nov 2022 | ||||
7b |
★★★ Lord of the Thais
1
6a+
25
Climbed this one many times
2
7a
28
3
7a+
28
Such an incredible holds 😍 Amazing pitch!
4
7b
27
Did with one fall, was so close to send | 110m, 46 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Jan 2023 | ||||
5.11b |
★★★ 蓝冰川 Blue Glacier
1
5.10b
520m
2
5.10b
3
5.9
4
5.8
5
5.11b
6
5.10b
7
5.11b
| 520m, 14 | 大峪 Dayu | ★★★ Classic | Tue 19th Nov 2019 | ||||
5.12a |
★★★ 星光灿烂
- with
Chris_zzz
| 180m, 12 | 白河 Baihe | Mon 28th Aug 2023 | |||||
四点起是正确的打开方式!
|
|||||||||
5.12a |
★★★ 蓝冰川 Blue Glacier
- with
赵晨ZhaoChen, Chunting
1
5.10b
回到白河的感觉,真亲切
2
5.10b
有点挑战性,更有意思了
3
5.9
简单的slab,就像青龙白虎一样
4
5.8
更简单了,走着上去
5
5.11b
事情开始有些不对劲,怎么挂片上还挂着绳子,要不抓一下试试?
6
5.10b
嗯,好像重拾一点快乐了
7
5.11b
事情更加不对劲了,我开始无情扯快挂了
8
5.11c
为什么我都踩挂片了,还这么难啊
9
5.11d
我开始用扁带做绳梯
10
5.12a
对不起,我忏悔,我甚至把手指伸进挂片里了,谢天谢地,今天就这样吧,我再也不先锋了 | 520m, 14 | 大峪 Dayu | Wed 6th Sep 2023 | |||||
5.11c |
★★★ 星光灿烂
- with
亚威
8
5.7
21m
lead by
亚威
| 200m, 12 | 白河 Baihe | Sat 21st Oct 2023 | |||||
7a+ |
★★ Фангорн
- with
Magzhan Kenzheyev
1
6b
2
7a+
3
6c
4
7a+
5
6a
6
6b
7
5a
| Almaty | Sat 21st Aug 2021 | ||||||
Nice route with interesting moves on the harder pitches.
|
|||||||||
7a+ |
★★ Фангорн
- with
Daniel
| Almaty | Sat 21st Aug 2021 | ||||||
Does climbing with your backpack adds a grade? Asking for a friend
|
|||||||||
6a+ |
★ Caveman (Caveman P1)
1
6a+
15m
| 15m, 12 | Railay | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | |||||
First pitch only - 6a+
|
|||||||||
7a+ |
★★★ Chúc Sức Khỏe
- with
Sơn, Lucas Low
1
6a+
29
lead by
Patrick-Anh Nguyen
Rock quality seems quite poor, but the pitch is a good warmup for the upcoming fun. | 96m, 60 | Hữu Lũng | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Jan 2024 | ||||
Great line with an amazing crew. Lots of variety and fun moves.
|
|||||||||
7a | ★★★ Peyote (Peyote p5) - with d | 120m, 44 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 26th Jan 2018 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Circus Oz (Circus Oz P1)
1
6a+
25m
| 25m, 41 | Railay | Average | Sun 22nd Dec 2019 | ||||
first pitch was mediocre choss. also felt on the verge of fainting all of this day.
|
|||||||||
7a |
★★★ Peyote
1
6c+
2
6c
3
6c
4
6b+
5
7a
| 120m, 44 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Fri 31st Jan 2020 | ||||
6b+ |
★★ Circus Oz
2
6b+
25m
| 50m, 41 | Railay | ★★★ Classic | Fri 20th Mar 2020 | ||||
6b+ |
★★★ Tigger
| 45m | Kowloon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Mar 2014 | ||||
Very close to insight P1, but fell.
|
|||||||||
7a | ★ Les Sorbonnards - with Thibaud | 110m | Hữu Lũng | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Jun 2020 | ||||
Nice multipich. Almost felt on the last sloppy moves of the last pitch...
|
|||||||||
7a |
★★ Ангмар
1
6b+
2
5b
3
6a+
4
6b+
5
7a
6
7a
| Almaty | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Sep 2021 | |||||
Nice climbing on the 5th pitch. Fell off the 6th because I broke a hold.
|
|||||||||
7a |
★★★ Peyote
1
6c+
25m
2
6c
20m
3
6c
22m
4
6b+
20m
5
7a
35m
| 120m, 44 | Ton Sai | Sun 26th Dec 2021 | |||||
6b+ |
★★★ Pai Noon Mai
- with
Olivier L
| 90m, 13 | Koh Phi Phi | Fri 4th Mar 2022 | |||||
Did it in 3 pitches. Good climb overall, easy for the grade. Rappel in 3 rapps of 30m with 60m single rope with no problems.
|
|||||||||
7a |
★ Keep the Jam, Man
1
6a
20m
2
6a
15m
3
7a
35m
| 70m, 15 | Railay | Tue 3rd May 2022 | |||||
7a |
★★ Circus Oz (Circus Oz Linkup Continental Drifters)
1
6a+
25m
2
6b+
25m
3
7a
45m
4
7a
28m
linkup Continental Drifters (7c+ linkup, retreated)
| 120m, 41 | Railay | Sat 7th May 2022 | |||||
With Michelle. Amazing route. 7a pitch is non stop fun, one tricky set of moves, the rest is all tech. Great climbing on tufa, some powerful and pumpy moves. Overall the route rewards versatility and route-reading. Made a mistake at the end - we ended up going up the last pitch of Contintental Drifter (7a on TheCrag, 7c+ in Sam Lightner's book). Felt like at last 7b+. Retreated off a couple of dubious bolts; make sure you get on the correct final pitch if doing this route. One of the best multipitches I've done.
|
|||||||||
6a+ |
★★ Circus Oz (Circus Oz P1)
1
6a+
25m
| 25m, 41 | Railay | Thu 27th Oct 2022 | |||||
7a |
★★ Circus Oz
1
6a+
25m
2
6b+
25m
3
7a
45m
| 95m, 41 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jan 2023 | ||||
5.11c |
★★ 往事随风 (往事随风 Once Upon a Time)
- with
家决
1
5.9
38m
2
5.10b
30m
3
5.11c
28m
4
5.10d
26m
5
5.10a
25m
6
5.10b
30m
7
5.11a
24m
8
5.11b
30m
| 230m, 12 | 白河 Baihe | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Nov 2020 | ||||
交替领攀,11c掉了两次;第七段11a难点aid通过。其余onsight
|
|||||||||
5.11b |
★★ Road Rage 路怒 (Road Rage)
- with
五九不欢
1
5.11b
2
| 39m, 8 | 清远英西 YingXi | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Dec 2020 | ||||
终于爬上了,果然如大嫂所说是我的风格,还好抽了个绳,咳咳
|
|||||||||
5.11c |
★★ Unknown 2
- with
翻翻, Li Xiaoya
2
5.11c
22m
| 48m, 9 | 白河 Baihe | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | |||||
打卡,只爬了第一段,挂片数不对,应该是10个
|
|||||||||
6a |
★ Monkeying Around (Monkeying Around P1)
1
6a
| 45m, 20 | Ton Sai | Fri 14th Feb 2020 | |||||
Doesn't worth it if you're not going to climb 2nd pitch.
|
|||||||||
6c+ |
★★ No Name
- with
Carlos Granon
1
4c
180m
2
5c
3
6b+
4
6a+
5
6a+
6
6c+
7
4c
| 180m, 14 | 安顺市 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Aug 2014 | ||||
What a multipitch!
|
|||||||||
6c+ | ★★ No Name | 65m, 14 | 安顺市 | Sat 1st May 2021 | |||||
6c+ |
Last Day
1
5
17m
2
6c+
15m
| 32m, 12 | Khao Jeen Lae | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | |||||
Amazing first pitch, second pitch did some work on then sacked it as running out of gas.
|
|||||||||
5.10c |
★★★ 圆月弯刀 (圆月弯刀 P1)
- with
喳喳
1
5.10c
27m
| 27m, 12 | 昌平 Changping District | ★ Good | Tue 10th Mar 2020 | ||||
5.11b |
★★★ 圆月弯刀
- with
喳喳
1
5.10c
27m
2
5.9
20m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.10c
30m
5
5.11b
27m
6
5.6
25m
7
5.6
34m
| 190m, 12 | 昌平 Changping District | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Mar 2020 | ||||
5.11b |
★★★ 圆月弯刀
- with
灿哥
1
5.10c
27m
2
5.9
20m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.10c
30m
5
5.11b
27m
6
5.6
25m
7
5.6
34m
| 190m, 12 | 昌平 Changping District | ★ Good | Sat 5th Sep 2020 | ||||
距离上次爬千金裘将近2个月了,路上的植被茂密了好多,手上脚上各种被草割和蚊子咬。攀爬过程中爆点太多,掉了好多大石头,下降时绳子直接碰掉了一块大石头从我面前掉落,太吓人了。第四段大反提处有蜂窝,居然没看见被蛰了,好不容易要完攀结果掉了,还不能用大点,只能从左边抓小扣扣上脚。第五段暴露感有点强,虽然点大,但第一次爬还是很紧张。下降过程中由于绳子卡在石头上,我又没有及时取出,造成卡绳,下次一定要吸取教训。
|
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5.11b | ★★ 三飞 San Fei - with 蜜蜂, 董球球 | 140m, 10 | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Mon 21st Sep 2020 | ||||
本想爬小柏树,结果走过了爬成了三飞hhh。【昂塞勿看!】第一段轻松愉快。第二段layback+反提翻屋檐,先锋还是很危险的(个人难度10d+)。第三段slab第一个难点是连续两个不到五毫米的手点和脚点。上一个挂已经再脚下三米。还需要在一个五毫米宽的crimp并手,再接着出手一个五毫米宽的略open的crimp。脚从一个5毫米宽的脚点,交叉脚换到一个70度的小坡,脚穿mythos感觉大脚趾都快断了。。。结果就是达成了第一次结组冲坠。请爬过的老师交流一下beta。第二个难点是冲坠怂怕了+指力/脚力耗尽的两个绳距的平衡动作。这连续的三个绳距,冲坠+take了五六次,我不知道是不是有12的难度,但感觉至少要比曲径通幽难。。。爬到第四段手皮已经告急,但还算轻松。第五段就很愉快了。
白河的秋天还是很美的,景区的桥和大门都已经重新装修过了,望了望对面的little big wall和大屁股,还是要加把劲呀。
|
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5.11b |
★★★ 圆月弯刀
1
5.10c
27m
2
5.9
20m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.10c
30m
5
5.11b
27m
6
5.6
25m
7
5.6
34m
| 190m, 12 | 昌平 Changping District | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Oct 2020 | ||||
5.11b |
★★★ 圆月弯刀
1
5.10c
27m
2
5.9
20m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.10c
30m
5
5.11b
27m
6
5.6
25m
7
5.6
34m
| 190m, 12 | 昌平 Changping District | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd May 2022 | ||||
35+ degrees, dehydrated, ran out of water and started becoming delusional. Bailed before killing self. Beautiful route!
|
|||||||||
6c |
★★★ Viserion
- with
craig
4
6a
lead by
craig
6
6a+
| 130m, 12 | Bukit Takun | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Feb 2018 | ||||
6c | ★★★ Orange Chandeliers - with Jack Hogan | 75m, 28 | Ao Nang Tower | Wed 25th Dec 2019 | |||||
6c |
★★★ Orange Chandeliers
1
6b
32m
2
6b+
18m
3
6c
25m
| 75m, 28 | Ao Nang Tower | Sun 9th Jan 2022 | |||||
6c+ |
Collateral Damage
1
6a
27m
2
6c+
17m
3
6b
11m
| 55m, 23 | Bukit Takun | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | |||||
6c | ★★ Shadow of the Wall - with Manuli, Lucien | 92m | Pha Tam Kam | Fri 10th Mar 2023 | |||||
One super committing move up on the third pitch, but well worth the view and experience for Manuli's birthday. Definitely a one and down climb, but glad to have shared the experience with some Frenchies
|
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6c |
★★ Thai Stick
- with
Ben Day
1
6a
35m
lead by
Angie
Did the LHS variant of the 6a pitch, Ben belayed from the comfy ledge, not from the little cave on the right
2
6c
35m
overhung with powerful moves at a few spots. | 70m, 26 | Railay | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | |||||
What an epic, and intimidating climb! All worth it when you get to stand on the stalactite
|
|||||||||
6c |
★★★ Viserion
1
5c+
2
6c
3
5c+
4
6a
5
5a
6
6a+
7
6a
| 130m, 12 | Bukit Takun | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | |||||
6c |
★★★ Flacid
1
6c
2
5c
3
6a+
| 70m, 24 | Bukit Takun | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Jan 2024 | ||||
5.11a |
Chocking the Cobra
2
5.11a
| 25m, 17 | Ramanagara, Mysore Highway | Sun 2nd Feb 2020 | |||||
5.11a |
★★ 醉生梦死
- with
Dave
1
5.10c
30m
2
5.10b
30m
3
5.10b
27m
4
5.9
30m
5
5.11a
30m
6
5.6
20m
| 170m, 11 | 昌平 Changping District | Average | Fri 8th Jul 2022 | ||||
Pitch 1 was super fun, the 11a pitch was nice, and the rest was pretty crap. Pitch 3 is basically a mixed route of flaky shit and vegetation. Heel hooked on a root.
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality - with Nicolas | 89m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 30th Dec 2016 | ||||
6b+ |
★★ Monkey See, Monkey Do
- with
Andrew
1
6b
35m
2
4a
10m
3
6b+
20m
4
6b
35m
| 100m | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Sep 2019 | ||||
What a weird but stunning day. That's an amazing multipitch with an incredible view over the bay, also cause you are climbing past this big stalactites.
We aimed to climb "Beauty & The Beast" on "Monkey World" Wall but ended up accidentally on this wall, without knowing... We guess we climbed up over a route which isn't even in our guides. However, in our 3rd pitch we came on the 1st pitch of "MSMD". The 1st pitch of this route was a beautiful climb along 2 arêtes. Followed by the easy wa walking up access pitch to the next anchor. From here a bit more challenging pitch. And here is, where the beauty really starts. First of all, you climb past the big stalactites, witch the bay as amazing backdrop. Once you get on the last pitch you travers onto the big stalactite. It's a really mental climb. I needed to stay focused on the climb and not the environment, 120 meter above the ground on a free hanging rock feature. Definitely, I should go here again, but next time with 2 ropes, that makes life damn easier. Let me tell you, it's a bad idea to just abseil with one rope. In the end we abseiled one and the half or two hours in the dark, so start early. |
|||||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
- with
Aidan Howes
1
5
112m
2
6b
3
6a+
4
6b
5
6b+
6
6b
7
6a
| 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | ||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
- with
Aidan Howes
1
5
112m
2
6b
3
6a+
4
6b
5
6b+
6
6b
7
6a
| 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | ||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15
2
6b
10
3
6a+
20
4
6b
22
5
6b+
25
6
6b
10
7
6a
10
| 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 4th Jan 2016 | ||||
The most memorable climb in Thailand for me. Amazing. Must climb!
|
|||||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
| 100m, 45 | Ton Sai | Wed 15th Dec 2021 | |||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
| 100m, 45 | Ton Sai | Thu 23rd Dec 2021 | |||||
Great route... Should have left earlier, got smashed by the sun... Unfortunately read the beta wrong on the last pitch resulting in some lead falls.
|
|||||||||
6b+ |
★★ Monkey See, Monkey Do
- with
athenais pioger, Gravity is a Myth
1
6b
20m
2
5b
10m
3
6b+
20m
4
6b
35m
| 85m | Ton Sai | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Feb 2022 | ||||
Pitches felt slightly easier than the grade.
As proposed we fixed a 60m rope on the belay anchor between P2 and P3, and we brought it up to the intermediate belay of P4 (the last pitch) on the big stalactite then rapped down from the top to this belay, which was a good idea because our rope get stuck in the middle of P4 and we had to climb again a bit !
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6b+ |
★★ Monkey See, Monkey Do
- with
athenais pioger, Olivier L
1
6b
20m
2
5b
10m
3
6b+
20m
4
6b
35m
| 85m | Ton Sai | Tue 22nd Feb 2022 | |||||
6b+ |
★★ Monkey See, Monkey Do
- with
Gravity is a Myth, Olivier L
1
6b
20m
2
5b
10m
3
6b+
20m
4
6b
35m
| 85m | Ton Sai | Mon 28th Feb 2022 | |||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
7
6a
10m
| 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | Wed 4th May 2022 | |||||
Amazing route. Struggled for ages on P5 trying to climb the face only, then used the tufa which made it a lot easier. Super fun climb, traverses, faces, 3 dimensional climbing on the tufa, insane views. Not to be missed.
|
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6a |
★★★ Life of Leif (Life of Leif P1)
| 17m, 19 | The North Wall | Sun 18th Sep 2022 | |||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
| 92m, 45 | Ton Sai | Wed 26th Oct 2022 | |||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
7
6a
10m
| 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Nok Khao Mai Chai Nok Rao - with Kang | 200m, 12 | Khao Jeen Lae | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Nov 2022 | ||||
Lovely line and a step-up from "Corcovado" if you are looking for a slightly harder way to get to the summit of Khao Chin Lae. The 3 6b/+ pitches are stellar.
The cracks take some green, yellow and red cams if the runout gets too much. |
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6b+ Easy |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15
2
6b
10
3
6a+
20
4
6b
22
Had a little foot slip
5
6b+
25
The money pitch! Pretty cool having to stem and chimney on a sport route
6
6b
10
7
6a
10
Pitch 7 looked disgusting | 110m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 29th Nov 2022 | ||||
Fun day out but need to get started early!
Combined ropes with the party ahead and did it in 2 rapels. Rapel 1 as usual than all the way to the ground from station 2, 2 60s comfortably reach it |
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6b | ★★★ Humanality - with zmz, Jenny | 67m, 45 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | ||||
第一次野外结组,上了四段,还有最精彩的钟乳劈叉那段没上,留给下次吧
|
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6b+ |
★★★ Aborist
1
6a
2
6a+
3
6b+
4
5c+
5
6b
6
5a
7
5c
8
6b
| 200m | Bukit Takun | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | ||||
Amazing 200m climb. Perfect for training long multipitches with fairly decent pitches.
|
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6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
| 100m, 45 | Ton Sai | Sat 10th Dec 2022 | |||||
6b+ |
★★★ Crystal Flame
1
6a
35m
2
6b+
25m
3
5a
10m
| 70m, 24 | Railay | Sat 10th Dec 2022 | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Aborist - with Paul Chow | 200m | Bukit Takun | Tue 27th Feb 2024 | |||||
5.10d |
★★★ 千金裘
- with
Marius
1
5.10b
25m
2
5.10a
27m
3
5.6
28m
4
5.10d
21m
5
5.9
18m
6
5.10c
27m
7
5.6
30m
| 180m, 10 | 昌平 Changping District | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th May 2021 | ||||
Great new multipitch in Houhuayuan, consistent difficulty over a wide range of climbing styles
rock is stable and clean nearly onsighted the whole thing but feet slipped in chimney section on second to last pitch, blaming it on aged shoes keen to try 圆月弯刀 in a few weeks' time! |
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5.10d |
★★ 五花马
- with
Yun
1
28m
2
5.10d
30m
3
5.9
22m
4
5.9
20m
5
5.8
30m
6
5.9
20m
| 150m, 10 | 昌平 Changping District | Sun 16th May 2021 | |||||
P1 前两把硬得要命 花了快15分钟怎么爬都爬不上 后来放弃拿了树枝把第二把快挂挂上去 具体什么难度不好说但绝对不是10D
P2 超爽的平衡线 估计有10D-11A 有机会想再爬一边 P3-P6 比较简单 P6最好几米比较碎 P2 给5★ 其他的best forgotten |
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5.10d |
★★★ Soul’s Awakening
1
5.9
28m
2
5.10a
8m
3
5.9
15
4
5.10b
40
5
5.10d
30
6
5.7
20
| 140m | 黎明 Liming | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | ||||
5.10d A0 |
★★★ Soul’s Awakening
- with
蜗牛, 心洛
1
5.9
28m
2
A0
8m
3
5.9
15m
4
5.10a
30m
5
5.10d
20m
6
5.10a
20m
| 120m | 黎明 Liming | Sat 14th May 2022 | |||||
5.10d | ★★★ 歪裂直上 - with 老程 | 240m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Oct 2022 | ||||
40米的10d,夫复何求?以为全程不怎么需要用手,但最后一段还是用手使大劲儿了,不然下次还想爬。
|
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5.10d Hard |
★★★ 歪裂直上
- with
Qilin Li
1
5.7
24m
2
5.10b
32m
3
5.10c
28m
4
5.9
24m
5
5.10d
40m
6
5.10a
30m
7
5.10b
23m
8
5.10a
40m
| 240m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th May 2023 | ||||
这次攀登是一次非常艰难而幸运的经历,没有造成事故实属万幸。没有提前充分了解好线路信息是一个非常大的错误,严重低估了线路的挑战性。
前三段领攀都能onsight,第四段5.9以为会更简单,结果感觉似乎比前面的10c还难点,离顶站还有2把挂的时候冲坠并下意识抓了一把绳,导致手指略有烧伤、破皮,心态有点崩溃。
第五段开始是直上的线路,也是最难的一段。最开始因为保护站挡住了比较合适的起步位置,起步走错方向导致第二次冲坠,指甲裂了两个,心态更为崩溃。随后调整了保护站位置,再次攀爬,但是体能和心态都处于比较差的状态,这一段花费了几乎一个小时时间,各种抓挂休息。途中已经感觉自己体力透支,担心怕不完线路,所以通过对讲机呼叫了旁边线路的小雅和强哥说明可能需要救援(当时由于心态过于紧张着急,已经忽视了我可以通过下降来下撤的可能性)。
硬着头皮干完了第五段,又费了很大力气把跟攀的麒麟老师保护上来。线路难度超出跟攀者能力较多,只能各种抓绳抓快挂;用上了3:1系统和5:1系统拉人,但是线路太长、摩擦力太大,似乎没什么效果。两个人都爬完第五段已经是下午六点了,距离天黑还有1小时。
第六段相对轻松一些,但是因为太累了所以保命要紧,快挂能抓则抓。到顶后强哥也从顶上放了70m单绳下来,正好可以到第六段的顶,随后现场教麒麟老师使用上升器和龟龟上升,我自己使用抓结+龟龟上升。因为最后两段线路曲折,所以还要各种操作减少磨绳。最终到达线路顶端已经是晚上九点半,后续开车回乡隆吃晚饭。
体力透支的可能原因之一是我因为着急抢时间所以过程中没有好好停下来吃东西。心态不够强大也是一个问题。另外没有充分了解线路,slab的线路和自己想象中的风格、难度体感都差异太大(即使去年已经在迪士尼岩场体验过了类似风格),一受挫就不淡定了。
幸运的是我们早上出发前决定带上对讲机,每个队伍拿一个以便沟通。以及抓结和龟龟等装备也相对齐全,自己也自学过一些绳索操作技术。
感谢小雅和强哥帮忙救援,感谢大坑在乡隆救援待命,感谢麒麟老师全程保持稳定的情绪使得整个过程有惊无险。经过这次洗礼,感觉自己的攀岩风险认知又有了质的飞跃。希望大家都能安全攀爬,享受攀岩乐趣。
|
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5.10d |
★★★ 歪裂直上
- with
panyixin, 小跳kexin, 赵凯
3
5.10c
28
lead by
赵凯
没印象了,可能没尖锐难点。
4
5.9
24
lead by
赵凯
因为爬到这太饿有点低血糖吗,还是说不会爬这种地形,体感难度不止.9吧QAQ怎么描述之后才不会忘呢,叫3d打印地形?
5
5.10d
40
lead by
panyixin
mega classic,几个横切考验脚法和心脏,不是不能爬。大光板往左绕屈辱抱树,能力太差,感觉不绕的话无解。现在回想被这段slab虐的滋味竟然甘之如饴,静水流深,再来挑战。
6
5.10a
30
lead by
赵凯
似乎有个小仰角和小裂缝,挺有意思的。
7
5.10b
23
8
5.10a
40
| 240m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | ||||
感谢各位老师大半夜辛苦拽我们&听我聊东聊西23333捡拾一堆经验包,爱白河,爱白河社区!
|
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5.10a A0 | ★★★ Soul’s Awakening - with Lixuan Guan | 8m | 黎明 Liming | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th Nov 2023 | ||||
觉醒了两段,愉快下撤。
|
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5.10d |
★★ 五花马
- with
panyixin, 晓天
1
5.10d
28
lead by
panyixin
阿潘做人行为大赏:挂上第一把挂后,“垃圾线”,遂抓挂;用胆小鬼连捅到第三把开始先锋后,“wc,什么玩意儿”,遂踩挂片。晓天跟攀时也是抓绳抓挂,这段单步难点确实tricky,光滑slab无脚点+垂直方向竖楞手点。一进二那阿潘beta是左手搂棱向右站起来抓反提,我尝试了一把感觉太远,静态往右推的时候左脚蹭墙找点踩了挂片,右手借助了三分之一单指节的crimp过渡站了起来,感觉是长人友好crux。出第三把算是次难点,头顶的pocket看着小,敢发力就会发现是jug。不算free就打卡aid吧。
2
5.10c
30
lead by
panyixin
出第一把挂处犹豫了很久,是大发力抢更高且看着也不太好抓的楞还是用中间竖楞转重心,最后还是选了后者上高脚。后面就是踩墙皮踩竖楞,不简单也算不上难的slab,很好玩。为了不take爬得很谨慎,好喜欢这种观察未知线路的动脑时刻,慢慢发现石头的每个纹理继而思考身体姿态转移重心,非常非常享受。整体感知P2最值得咂摸,其他pitch一般般。 | 150m, 10 | 昌平 Changping District | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | |||||
9时10分开爬,14时10分top,三个j人的快乐chill局,感谢阿潘和晓天搭档。每个保护站都很舒服,背靠岩壁发呆的时候,看满山春花如雪,能清晰地听到风从山谷缝隙中擦过,太阳晒得暖和舒展,大抵是心旷则神怡。
|
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6b |
★★ Chinese New Year
- with
Henrique de Almeida Mendonça
| 130m | Pha Tam Kam | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Jan 2019 | ||||
Simulclimbed first and second pitches. 6b pitch felt soft. Shame for the sharp top, the rope got stuck and Henrique had to go up some choss to free it. Very much enjoyed the whiskey bottle at the top
|
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6b |
★★ Redemption Song
1
5c+
28m
2
6a+
25m
3
6b
20m
| 73m | Batu Caves | Sun 27th Jan 2019 | |||||
6b |
★ Curious George
1
6a
2
6b
| 58m, 18 | Ton Sai | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | |||||
6b |
★★★ Training Day
1
5c
15m
2
5b+
26m
3
6b
30m
4
5c
16m
| 87m, 26 | Batu Caves | Sun 10th Mar 2019 | |||||
6c |
★★ Crack X
1
6a
20m
2
6c
25m
| 45m | Batu Caves | Sat 19th Jan 2013 | |||||
6b |
★ Ichineesanghait
1
5c
28m
2
6b
28m
| 56m | Batu Caves | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | |||||
Rope solo. Threads at ground level for anchor. One rest on the second pitch, wasted time moving left onto the wrong line before I realised that my line was on the right, had to faff around to get back on track. When doing the second pitch remember to bear right as you get to the slight overhang, to avoid going onto TJ.
|
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6b |
★★ Wards Groove
1
4+
2
5
3
6b
4
6a+
| 55m | Kowloon | Sat 7th Dec 2019 | |||||
th exposed itch super fun, lead, but could not make overhung dyno to mother of all holds, back down top roped it
|
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6b |
★★ The Beauty & the Beast
1
6a+
30m
2
6a+
25m
3
6b
30m
4
6b
| 85m, 28 | Ton Sai | Mon 9th Mar 2020 | |||||
6b | ★★ Enter the Dragon Remake - with caja | 25m, 8 | Batu Caves | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Nov 2020 | ||||
6b |
★★ Big Wave
1
6a+
30m
2
6b
25m
3
6b
26m
4
6b
30m
| 110m, 33 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | ||||
6b |
★★ The Beauty & the Beast
1
6a+
30m
2
6a+
25m
3
6b
30m
4
6b
| 85m, 28 | Ton Sai | Sun 30th Jan 2022 |